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Old 04-26-2019, 02:43 PM   #51
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If you switch to speed density/megasquirt you don't need a maf at all.
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Old 04-29-2019, 02:38 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Cwazywazy View Post
Can't you just put the MAF after the turbos or does that not work with LH?
That works quite well actually. Ran it for 6 months without an issue.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:40 PM   #53
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Interesting, moving the MAF(s) would open up some options and allow me to get them away from the turbo manifold. Thanks for the tip!

My current plan was to first get the base map worked out on the car with the itb's (in an airbox) whilst also moving on with the turbo stuff on the engine stand. With a blow trough setup I could also keep the same wiring then.

After that I was planning to put the new engine in, and run it in without the turbo's after which I can start to add all of the complex bits for the TT setup and make it work. And then slowly increase the boost until I am where I wish to be power wise.

Sorry for the lack of actual updates for now, with the current study load I can only get to benchracing an a little progress each week

Oh and additionally, I finally got my eeprom programmer and eeproms, so soon I'll be trying to burn a couple of chips
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:41 PM   #54
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Default China intercoolers, put the head on, and got myself into 16v trouble

Finally some more progress on both the engine and the car itself, with some late nights and little tasks during quick study breaks

The first hurdle was cleared by drilling out the old oil pump drive gear, and installing a new one, with the installer made by a friend. These were only available from Volvo Penta, so I took the liberty of getting 2 at once for possible future projects.


The next hurdle, the intermediate shaft bearings was also cleared. I covered the new bearings in a good inside coating of vaseline top prevent gaulling of the surface, and used a m20 threaded rod to pull in the bearings nice and straight, finally they are in perfect


Youtube video for the fit:p


I also put in the rear oil seal in one go, so much win!


A few days later I spent a day porting, polishing and reassembling the oil pump, all should be well.













Moving back to the engine itself, I got the head installed with the 12.9 grade head bolts, and proceeded to spend ages to get the valve shims in spec (6 attempts required for perfection):p











With the valve clearance set, I proceeded to applying anaerobic sealant to the cam end caps and put in the rear and front cam seal, since I'll be going wasted spark with this setup.






The large intercoolers I ordered also arrived at the post office, hopefully they'll fit in the front with my measurements.


With all except the oil pan sorted, I proceeded to time the motor on the stand.


And discovered an issue with my plan to use a 24mm wide timing belt.


After a little read and contact with KGtimmning, I went on the lookout for 16v cam gears, which escalated into me buying a set of PZ 16v cams, the roller and belt for a 16v conversion for Strettman. Who I ended up helping to buy a very clean orange 242 which was local to me, pretty cool coincidence.


The crankshaft gear had a little damage on the key, which I managed to restore with a weld bead and a file to an acceptable result.


With this the issue was partly solved, more updates on getting a fitting timing cover and tensioner later.

Proceeding with a night of playing around with the welder and grinder I also managed to create v2 of half of the turbo manifold, which after a test fit on the car still required some adjustments, since my initial placement for turbo #2 was in the frame rail. Stupid mistake, but I modeled it without the car in winter in the driveway to check, so it was to be expected.


I'll soon be getting test fitting v2.5 to continue with the top manifold for turbo #2 (fitment will be different, but this should give an idea of the interfering framerail

Last edited by Swedbrick; 11-19-2019 at 08:40 AM.. Reason: Fixed all images by moving over to imgur
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:47 PM   #55
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Backwards? Black side faces out, pretty sure..
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Old 06-03-2019, 04:16 PM   #56
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You may have to re-engineer your coolant transfer tube with that manifold.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 06-03-2019, 04:54 PM   #57
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Backwards? Black side faces out, pretty sure..
Hmm, probably then, seemed the most logical at the time, but rubber on the oil side is maybe less smart. I'll change it out by the time I've gone through run in and am ready to put my K-cam in Thanks!


Quote:
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You may have to re-engineer your coolant transfer tube with that manifold.
Yes I already noticed indeed, with a little adjustment it should work however, I'm more concerned as to the turbo not hitting my strut towers
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:18 PM   #58
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Hi
Catching up with this thread & thought I would relay my own experiences in the manifold building area. Probably too late now as I bet you've finished the manifold but maybe useful to someone doing it for the first time.
I used the same weld elbows & a spare engine on a stand. Like you I put the water pump on but not the pipe that runs to the back. I managed to massage mine with a hammer but have since noticed it has not done the little rubber gasket any favours.
Other things I did not think of in my haste to get it done & see if it would fit were....
1. access to the spark plugs (got lucky on that one)
2. Seeing if I could get to the nuts/bolts on the turbo flange. ( no way!)
3. Seeing if I could get to the nuts on the manifold flange. (again lucky)
4. Not taking account of the length of the head studs in working out how much space I had in the engine bay for the runners.
On this last point I do have a physically big turbo which I now cannot remove from the manifold (without removing from the engine bay). On my 240 there is not enough room to move the turbo/manifold back off the studs to withdraw it from the engine bay. These problems are made worse by being right hand drive & having the brake m/c in the way as well.
I notice that you have a 740 so hopefully will not have these fitment issues.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Tim
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:51 AM   #59
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Hi
Catching up with this thread & thought I would relay my own experiences in the manifold building area. Probably too late now as I bet you've finished the manifold but maybe useful to someone doing it for the first time.
I used the same weld elbows & a spare engine on a stand. Like you I put the water pump on but not the pipe that runs to the back. I managed to massage mine with a hammer but have since noticed it has not done the little rubber gasket any favours.
Other things I did not think of in my haste to get it done & see if it would fit were....
1. access to the spark plugs (got lucky on that one)
2. Seeing if I could get to the nuts/bolts on the turbo flange. ( no way!)
3. Seeing if I could get to the nuts on the manifold flange. (again lucky)
4. Not taking account of the length of the head studs in working out how much space I had in the engine bay for the runners.
On this last point I do have a physically big turbo which I now cannot remove from the manifold (without removing from the engine bay). On my 240 there is not enough room to move the turbo/manifold back off the studs to withdraw it from the engine bay. These problems are made worse by being right hand drive & having the brake m/c in the way as well.
I notice that you have a 740 so hopefully will not have these fitment issues.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Tim
Hi Tim,

Thanks for the tips, I'll take them into account when I get to part 2 of the manifold, I'm currently working on the chassis some more, so my time (and budget) has been spent there mostly

I did already run into 3/4 of these issues on my previous manifold, so hopefully I won't mess up this time around My biggest fitment issue is probably going to be the hood clearance on the top turbo whilst retaining a nice airflow path to the turbo inlet, I hate the look of a hood scoop, so hopefully I'll manage without. Even in a 7 series, it is going to be tight, especially since I'd like to have the space to eventually upgrade to a 15, 17 or 19T
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:14 AM   #60
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Default They fit, they fit!!

Hi all, today I finally got to the point of checking the fit of the since the previous post many times revised manifold. It has been tack welded for now, and I'll hopefully to get it completely done somewhere next month.

I was very happy to find that they fit! Only slightly fouling the water transfer tube, which should be addressable by moving the bend a bit.


I should also have the space for a downpipe, and I can acces all the bolts somewhat okay, as well as mount the manifold with the turbos attached



The top DP will be close, but Ill rotate the top turbo a bit more to the intake side for some additional clearance which will also require moving the wasted spark setup to the back of the cylinder head. This shouldn't be to big of a problem


I also did a very advanced hood clearance test with gaffers tape and an exhaust bolt and concluded plenty of hood clearance was present. I couldn't be happier (read surprised), this is actually going according to plan


With all this succes I decided to finally get into the calculations for my HP goals, with an aim of 350 crank HP, I set a target boost of about 25psi given the current 135 I guestimate with the K cam and 9.3 comp pistons for the 2.3L with light porting. A bit of guessticalculation and I arrive at about 665 cfm @7krpm, which translates to roughly 0.31 m^3/s and get a pressure ratio of 2.6 for the given boost.

Since we are going to run 2 turbo's I halved that and mapped it onto the turbo map for the 13c, which shows I'm at the edges of sanity, but will probably be able to get into boost at 3.5krpm and will get cooler air as the engine's rpm rise. I also added a second line for about 15 psi of boost to see where I would end up, getting into boost at 2.5krpm.


Since I am by no means a turbo master, this might be all wrong, so please correct me if I made any obvious mistakes Maybe Duder could chime in and bring me up to speed on the compromises I'm making, I'd love to know a bit more before I get to trying to tune this contraption
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Old 10-19-2019, 04:26 PM   #61
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can you still change the spark plugs with that header?
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Old 10-20-2019, 09:48 AM   #62
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can you still change the spark plugs with that header?
Hi, yes possibly I'll need to make a small adapter piece with a shortened socket but it should just about clear. There is about 50mm between the top bend and the header so the clearance should be good
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:35 AM   #63
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Default Welding commences - tips are welcome!

With a little reworking the top turbo is now in perfect alignment, valve cover work will require to take of the compressor housing now, but no biggie:p


The final manifold with numbers added for determining what to weld when, order of operations so to say. Took a while to figure out, but all sections with a line though them will be welded in full first and then attached in the order of numbering hopefully haha


I've been running into annoying porous welds, even though I'm running plenty of gas (7.5L/min not excessive for inside). The issue seems to arise when the weld pool gets red hot and breaks through the other side of the tube (is oxygen able to pass throug?) I am not running a backpurge since my setup is currently not capable and this should be possible like this with mig (yes I know, will boroscope and grind everything inside afterwards:P)


With less heat and extensive cleaning after sandblasting, and messing with the settings for a colder weld pool the results became better but the porosity is still there


The inside looks good however, little cleanup required


I'll be fighting another round tonight where I'll try the Tig on a Mig technique of stacking dimes with pulse welds, and hopefully that will solve my problem which I believe is caused by the heat. Any other theories as to the cause are welcome, since I'll be buying more steel from the looks of it haha
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Old 11-13-2019, 03:22 PM   #64
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Default Welding much better, shiny parts

After a few discussion with friends from the motorsports association I was suggested to look into a little more gas flow, since this has been a known issue with our welder. I also determined not grinding in a V groove and setting the digital mig approriately to 2.1mm worked wonders with the new gas flow at 9-10 L/min. Purty


I also made good use of my new belt sander, to take care of the outside welds, since I'll be heatwraping them and the fitment is already quite close. Since I got good penetration on these thick walled pipes, I'm not to concerned about strength, and with my new settings, the pinholes were completely gone after fixing one spot where I forgot to keep the torch aligned for the post weld gas


I also welded up the first of the flanges, and will be treating these afterwards to some dremel love (also bought a chinese endoscope tooly), I'm really stoked on how the divider turned out!


I'll be welding and porting the sections for the coming weeks to have it hopefully together before the end of the month since the car is going into storage again for winter:p

With the exhaust off, I decided to also pre-invest in some nice new studs and copper coated exhaust nuts, to keep the seal nice and tight

Last edited by Swedbrick; 11-19-2019 at 04:01 AM.. Reason: fixed scaling
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Old 11-19-2019, 09:42 AM   #65
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Default Fixed all my images once more, and little forgotten update

Hi All,

I just fixed all the images by moving them over to imgur instead of photobucket with their scam. So the thread is readable again

I also forgot about posting the oil pump installation here so a quick summary here, I got one of the prototypes that casey made and a more detailed install description can be found on his max effort oil pump thread here:
Oil pump mods: max effort





A pretty cool piece, we'll see how it works out. I've also recieved a sheet of 1.5mm sheet metal to start the timing cover and baffled oil pump build, so updates on that and the mani soon.
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