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240 Lh2.4 no spark

volvoboy90

volvoboy90

sanna kärlek är svensk
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Location
Dayton, Ohio
Hello, everyone. This is for my 89 244 with lh 2.4, tuned with ostrich. Yoshifab flywheel machined for crank sensor. It has ran with it, and ran well. Lately, I have been getting intermittent no start conditions. Pumps will prime. Tried to start today, and couldn't get anything. No spark. I am really under fire where I live to not use tools so my ability to diagnose is limited. My main hope is to poke your brains. I'm leaning to cps, which I have replaced before, probably about 6 years ago. Also keeping in mind my coil, power stage and possible ezk failure (if this has happened) The car will not stall, once running, it runs great, it is only on cold starts. Thanks in advance.
 
When it starts it runs? Measure ECT resistance it might be bad.

If it's confirmed no spark, check for fuel. If no fuel, shoot a new CPS. If there's just no spark, try a power stage.
 
I'm pretty sure I smelled fuel after trying to start several times. My attempts to repair are going to have to be stupid, quick and half-assed. ****ing neighbors and their hoa. :grrr: I'll keep you guys posted on what I find.
 
volvoboy90 said:
I'm pretty sure I smelled fuel after trying to start several times. My attempts to repair are going to have to be stupid, quick and half-assed. ****ing neighbors and their hoa. :grrr: I'll keep you guys posted on what I find.
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Keep in mind that a crank sensor doesn?t always completely die and cut fuel and spark. I?ve seen them intermittently cut one or the other. I could still get spark from the coil wire and still got the noid light to intermittently flash. Unless you have a lab scope and know how to test the CPS, then I?d recommend the parts cannon on this one. Especially at the age these cars are, most crank sensors are ratty anyway.
 
ZVOLV said:
Test lamp. $3 at H. Freight.
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Yeah, but using tools for longer than 5 minutes per day opens up the door for me to get fined, evicted, or my **** towed. That's the crux of my problem, I can't do diagnostic work, so I'm just trying to get an idea of what could cause a cold no start.
 
volvoboy90 said:
Yeah, but using tools for longer than 5 minutes per day opens up the door for me to get fined, evicted, or my **** towed. That's the crux of my problem, I can't do diagnostic work, so I'm just trying to get an idea of what could cause a cold no start.
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Wait until night time, then swap in a CPS
 
I had a cps that drove me crazy. Sometimes car would run great, sometimes no start, sometimes ran on 3 cylinders. Its a pain to get to of course I have hands of shrek.
 
Tried to start again today, absolutely nothing. No codes, and no movement from the tach. I examined the CPS wire, and sheathing, to find that it is still in good condition. It began to rain, so I could not do a resistance test of the cps while I was out there.
 
HOA Stealth

The thread title should reflect the real problem. You have to get the car running with one hand tied behind your back.

I helped someone once with a similar HOA problem. You can do it in the rain, too. You grab your wiring diagram (hope it is easier to read than the ones in the Bentley) and a multimeter. Get inside your car and get your head down under the glove box and start checking for power at the FI relay, the ECU, and your Ostriched ICU. Power verified, go on to what else you can check with key off, and key on. You can check the resistance toward the CPS from the ICU plug pins 10 and 23 if I recall. Yes, of course, I looked it up. Point is, you can get a lot of diagnostics done without opening the hood.

Again, always start by verifying the supply, starting with voltage at the FI relay #30 with key on. Basic stuff first. No jumping to conclusions, just methodical plodding toward a thorough job prior to risking lifting the hood within sight of the neighbors. Otherwise you have to get it towed. Battery will die soon and you'll have to anyway.
 
Pushed her to a place where I feel a bit safer about probing around without causing a stir, I am getting battery voltage to my ecu, fuel injection relay, and ezk. I do have measurable resistance at my cps, I believe ~175 ohms. I checked my coil and between the posts, I was only getting .8 ohms, which seems low? Not sure what's spec for these, but I expected more. With that being said, I went back to the passenger kick panel and made sure everything was still tight, no looseness, or anything out of the ordinary and for superfluous reasons, attempted to start. It started with no hesitation. Took it for a drive to recharge the battery, and then checked what my voltage I was getting at idle across the posts at the coil, which was a meager .6v? I thought I had a spare power stage to swap in, but after rummaging, I was not able to find it. Are there outputs/inputs I can check to verify the condition of my powerstage?
 
volvoboy90 said:
Pushed her to a place where I feel a bit safer about probing around without causing a stir, I am getting battery voltage to my ecu, fuel injection relay, and ezk. I do have measurable resistance at my cps, I believe ~175 ohms. I checked my coil and between the posts, I was only getting .8 ohms, which seems low? Not sure what's spec for these, but I expected more. With that being said, I went back to the passenger kick panel and made sure everything was still tight, no looseness, or anything out of the ordinary and for superfluous reasons, attempted to start. It started with no hesitation. Took it for a drive to recharge the battery, and then checked what my voltage I was getting at idle across the posts at the coil, which was a meager .6v? I thought I had a spare power stage to swap in, but after rummaging, I was not able to find it. Are there outputs/inputs I can check to verify the condition of my powerstage?
Click to expand...

You'd be better off to use an incandescent test light across the coil, or from coil - to ground as Zvolv suggested. The waveshape is such that no two meters will tell the same story. Even that doesn't tell you about subtle differences in coils, just that it is trying to work.

My experience tells me the parts aren't the problem; the terminal connections are. As you can imagine, though, replacing a part can disturb all the connections into working again, and then you feel real good about spending the money on the part.
 
This might be stupid but I always check that stupid fuse inside the engine bay next to the battery. I have on more than one occasion had that piece of **** be the cause of a no start.

If your OBD port does not work at all this fuse is broken and the ecu will not get power thus no start.
 
The fuse is fine, in fact, I've replaced the fues holder a few times. I plan on trying to do some diagnostic work this weekend after work.
 
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