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240 flat undertray examples

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Time to tuck that exhaust up over the axle!

3" fits over axle, you just have to be careful. I just did it in my reasonably low 242 and so have quite a few others.

s66xIjil.jpg


I could have tucked mine closer to the body for more clearance. I would just take your time to get it pretty close and you'll be fine.
 
ehhh not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze on that one. I'd have to relocate the muffler, then I'm most of the way to building a new system from the DP back, and there's really no other driving forces so it's tacking a lot of cost and complexity onto a "for fun" project.

I'm slow rolling another project involving computer models, custom end tanks and welding so I want to keep this one simple-ish ;-)
 
The Full Banana said:
Time to tuck that exhaust up over the axle!

3" fits over axle, you just have to be careful. I just did it in my reasonably low 242 and so have quite a few others.

https://i.imgur.com/s66xIjil.jpg[ /img]

I could have tucked mine closer to the body for more clearance. I would just take your time to get it pretty close and you'll be fine.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, the JT system I had (was great, the muffler before the axle was slanted upwards to the rear and was far from the lowest point under the car. Over axle, did not have clearance issues.
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The JT with 2 mufflers is what I have too. Very easy to fit. Wish it was 409 SS but for the convenience I can't complain. Center muffler mounts to seem to transmit a lot of vibration from the engine with stiff motor mounts. It's a bit loud at idle but mostly great for the price.
 
Anyone want to nudge me towards a material choice? I had thought of Kydex initially mostly because of impact resistance and I've read that it thermoforms very well, so I was hoping that might mean I can make curves/bends with a heat gun and forms or something. Material thickness... 1/8"?

For front end ducting (flow panels for heat exchangers basically) I figure I'll use thin aluminum sheet and a brake, but I think the larger panels would be easier/quieter/nice to work with in Kydex/ABS/XDPE.

Harlard said:
If you plan on doing a true front mount intercooler, I'm interested in that too, lol
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yeah I'll let you guys know. I have to pull the trigger on a core and then look at packaging. I've got a friend lined up to help with overthinking end tank design, he does heat exchanger design at work so hoping he can help me make something with real engineering behind it... like... with math and stuff. How we'll end up producing it I'm not sure yet.

Last year I walked by a huge rack of wiggins clamps in the shop and I was like who can I make friends with in this department :lol:
 
Speaking of wiggins clamps, Epman stuff is actually good and 1/4 the price of the known scumbags. Looking at placing a big-ish order soon.
 
Harlard said:
Speaking of wiggins clamps, Epman stuff is actually good and 1/4 the price of the known scumbags. Looking at placing a big-ish order soon.
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Guys at work told me I'm crazy for wanting them; they're a regular source of issues on air handling systems because they get mangled/installed improperly etc., their misalignment tolerance is lower. There's a good argument for a coupler and good clamps being a more reliable solution but... BLANG BLANG.

Same can be said for multi-pin bulkhead connectors in engine harnesses. Race cars have them, we all want them, I want them... but you know what's more reliable then 35 connectors in a backshell? Zero connectors in a grommet. But... BLANG BLANG

all stated by the man asking about dubiously functional race car trays for his car designed with a speed square :rofl:
 
Years ago I thought of making a flat undertray but then gave up. It has surfaced on my mind every now and then. Lately have thought of making just two simpel panels before the rear axle. That way the air won't go over the axle and be trapped in front of the tank. With that little needed I'd use aluminium panels.

Heat from the front muffler and exhaust would require heat shields to the floor. My rear muffler is so big that I don't think much is needed under that.

3.5" fits over the axle, that's what I made for the "B6284T". Only place to tap some is the right side spare wheel tub but no need to touch the bottom seam. Axle won't touch even when (almost)bottoming out on bumps with heavier loads. It's been there now a bit over 5 years.

When it was new and before a homemade(better) muffler:
3.jpg
 
My 3" clears over the axle fine but it rubs on the triangle thingy next to the gas tank which is annoying.
 
I'm confused. This is a turbobricks thread that's actually talking about modifying a Volvo for higher performance... whaaaaat?
 
use aluminum

not 240 but I did this on my 850... Note the horn relocation (#1 mod on VS back in the day)
shaved all the "flashing" thats pretty bad out of the factory
before.
TPk8cywh.jpg


after
most important thing on this is that I curved the plate down few inches. Getting it powdercoated next
sCnQOAyh.jpg


Duder said:
I'm confused. This is a turbobricks thread that's actually talking about modifying a Volvo for higher performance... whaaaaat?
Click to expand...

handful of those out of ~330k threads. Things are starting to turn around
Sometimes you can’t fix it all with zip ties
 
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Duder said:
I'm confused. This is a turbobricks thread that's actually talking about modifying a Volvo for higher performance... whaaaaat?
Click to expand...

I know, I feel like I'm going back to my roots :lol:. In the warm months I tend to just "do", but I'm up for a little february bench racing!

Jack said:
use aluminum
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Why though? I'm gonna need a more compelling argument than the nike slogan. I plan to for the front ducting (around HX's, air intake, potentially provisioning for brake ducting), but for the largely flat panels running down the floors I'm not sure I want to. It's sharp, it's not cheap, and I also imagine it would be loud as hell?

Still expect I'll let you all down and leave the exhaust as-is. I'm looking at IC cores, radiators, oil coolers, diffs, steering racks, tires, brakes... list is getting full. Wait, I drove the car about 100 miles last year what am I doing?

The first price I pulled up for a 4x8' sheet of 1/8" Kydex was ~$280... ouch. Will have to call around local and start making some cost based decisions.

I still like the idea of dzus fasteners for quick removal, trying to think out how to make mounts. Little spacer blocks strategically placed around the floor? Or maybe strips so it's more supported? I guess I have to get the SAABs through the garage and actually look at the car to make those decisions :-P

Redwood Chair said:
Restore it to stock.
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I cut the strut towers for camber plate clearance, it's totaled!!
 
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