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1971 142 Turbo v2.0

Any chance you could share some more pictures of the whole engine bay? Curious to see how things are set up overall.
 
Any chance you could share some more pictures of the whole engine bay? Curious to see how things are set up overall.

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Thanks for the idea. I've not seen it this together for a long long time. My friend Rob once commented: "it's like you have an engine cover, but, the cover is engine."
 
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Version A
This mount was in use for ~500mi and was a continual belt squealing irritation only slightly mitigated by the diagonal brace. This allowed the alternator to be pushed right up against the block on the passenger side and moved the adjustability to the idler wheel. The challenge with my implementing was insufficient belt coverage. I had the idler as tight as possible to the distributor and it still resulted in little coverage on the water pump and crankshaft pulley. To try and stop the slipping the idler was tightened within an inch of its life. Also, no provision for dual belts.

Version B
Great hopes for this because it missed more of the steering idler so more potential adjustability. This was quickly dashed by turning the steering to left lock where it interfered with the steering linkage. From the lower picture you can see the additional angle on the plate attached to the lower block bosses and how much lower the pivot point is. It places the diameter of the alternator right between the steering idler attachments and missed the cast iron bulge for the oil pressure switch/sensor. The sensor itself is out of the way but the bulge seems to limit how close it can swing into the block.

Version C
The go-forward version. At full slack it's just barely possible to get the belts on a loosened water pump pulley and at full tight one of the alternator cage bosses comes quite close (0.25") to the idler bolts. That may need to get taken off with the carbide die. With both belts attached none of the pulleys can be individually rotated and it feels very secure. With the selected alternator the mounting points are pretty far off the front of the block hence a lot of the triangulation.
 
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Version C in some more detail. It's made up of:


and various chunks of metal. The nut for the lower mount will need to be captured as it is inaccessible once the oil lines go in.

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These two threadings accept cap headed screws that hold down a pair of p-clamps that guide the -6 hoses from the oil filter adapter to the thermostat block. The hose closer to the centerline sits on a 3/4" spacer because they need to nest horizontally to miss the sway bar and I have just a little space vertically in that area.
 
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Part of the fun of a long project is fixing things you did a long time ago (8 yrs?!?) and in the case of the fuel pump cradle before it even had a chance to start. Me in 2012: what are these magical things called rivnuts?? That's a classic Walbro I think I installed in '06-ish?

Tfrasca - does this rhyme with your fuel system? Thoughts, comments, problems?
 
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Tfrasca - does this rhyme with your fuel system? Thoughts, comments, problems?

This looks like version one of my fuel system. I put a gravity fed OEM 240 turbo pump in that fuel pump cradle. It didn't work well.

Now I have a Bosch 044 inside a surge tank in the trunk, fed by a Facet low pressure pump in that same cradle. It fixed the issues with the old setup (BAD fuel starvation in corners, and just running out of fuel pressure at high boost/rpm). But it's not perfect. The surge tank gets almost too hot to touch, which hasn't been a problem, but I sure don't like it.

Rev 3.0 will probably be a custom or modified stock tank that fits the Bosch 044 inside. The only reason the fuel system is tricky on these cars is because there's no in-tank pump. 240 people have it all figured out.
 
That's really good information - thanks. Once this is (re)running I hope it's fun enough that it's a race between me blowing up the M41 (or the spare), the fuel system, or swapping out the narrow rods.

One symptom during the last round was a bad throttle bog and when that cleared it was an easy pull to redline. I had the injectors flow tested a few years ago and discovered one was leaking pretty bad. My (hopeful) suspicion is I was fouling a plug and then once that cleaned off it'd go. That said, I always wondered if I was asking too much of the gravity feed.
 
What radiator is that? Where did you get it? And is there any chance you've got photos of how you had to adapt the car to get it to sit where you have it?
 
Cool car. Do you have a close up of the fuel rail mounts and injectors? They look nice and very close to(or in?) the flange!
 
What radiator is that? Where did you get it? And is there any chance you've got photos of how you had to adapt the car to get it to sit where you have it?

My shopping list:
Griffin Aluminum Drag Race Radiators 2-25185-X
Dorman 926-278 Radiator Mount Bushing

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This shows the foot of the radiator with the bushing. This mounts on a plate screwed onto some sheetmetal and frame rail (via rivnut) with a pin pointing upwards to locate the bottom.

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On the top are two little brackets that go from bosses on the the radiator to the original upper radiator mounts. These are galvanically isolated on the radiator side with some flange washers.
 
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My shopping list:
Griffin Aluminum Drag Race Radiators 2-25185-X
Dorman 926-278 Radiator Mount Bushing

YTfV07u.jpg


This shows the foot of the radiator with the bushing. This mounts on a plate screwed onto some sheetmetal and frame rail (via rivnut) with a pin pointing upwards to locate the bottom.

On the top are two little brackets that go from bosses on the the radiator to the original upper radiator mounts. These are galvanically isolated on the radiator side with some flange washers.

This is the most elegant solution to an improved radiator I've seen yet! Kudos!
 
This is the most elegant solution to an improved radiator I've seen yet! Kudos!

Thanks. If I could weld aluminum it would be even better to weld the pin onto the bottom of the foot, flip the rubber bushing upside down, and drop the bushing into the frame rail (it's a 3/4" hole as I recall). That would save you building a part and reduce the stack. Any way to make things smaller in a 140 bay makes things better.
 
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I think this was in a different thread but this shows all the coolers mounted up. They each have about 0.25" of space between them. When planning the stack up I put them all together with thin plywood between them and two big bar clamps holding it together. I don't think I could get it any farther forward. The lower right ear of the oil cooler actually interferes slightly with the headlight trim so trimming that is on the to-do list.
 
Looking at the photos (and reading the descriptions again) I was wondering what your plan was for when you have to change the accessory belts.

It looks (emphasis on looks... might not actually be) like your oil lines go through that opening between the pulleys, but captures the belts once they're attached to the remote filter housing.
 
Looking at the photos (and reading the descriptions again) I was wondering what your plan was for when you have to change the accessory belts.

It looks (emphasis on looks... might not actually be) like your oil lines go through that opening between the pulleys, but captures the belts once they're attached to the remote filter housing.

The belts go between the belts and the sway bar. The two holes on the bottom of the alternator bracket hold cap headed screws that direct the oil lines in parallel to the bottom of the alternator and below the belts. I can grab a quick pick of the alternator bracket with the oil lines and alternator installed. It doesn't miss by much, but, it's just below the pulley so belt expansion should be minimal.

If past performance is any indicator of future results I can expect to change the belts and oil filter once a decade.
 
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Cool car. Do you have a close up of the fuel rail mounts and injectors? They look nice and very close to(or in?) the flange!

Next time the manifold is off I'll take some pictures. It's so tight because this is a 405 head using the K-jet holes. I had a friend turn the ID on the K-jet holders down to take the Bosch injector o-rings. The injector nozzles sit just on at the edge of the k-jet holder.

The fuel rail itself is affixed to a couple little brackets that are attached to the head using the k-jet bracket screws. Those are really simple: a steel tab behind the rail, a bit of 1/4" round stock, and another tab screwed onto the head. Seems nice and firm.
 
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I'm getting geared up to do the exhaust. This shows the Yother flange and a 16* cut that unwinds the angle and places the outlet perpendicular to the ground. The intent is to do this in 3" mild steel.

I'm still on the learning/exploration track with welding (120V setup, gas shielded, 0.030" wire) - does any one have any tips/tricks/advice on this? One thought I had was to use the rotary table on the mill to cut a relief (probably around 0.050") for the pipe to drop into the flange. I'm at least the downpipe away from final welding it up, but, if there are useful things to do in anticipation I'm all ears.
 
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I'm getting geared up to do the exhaust. This shows the Yother flange and a 16* cut that unwinds the angle and places the outlet perpendicular to the ground. The intent is to do this in 3" mild steel.

I'm still on the learning/exploration track with welding (120V setup, gas shielded, 0.030" wire) - does any one have any tips/tricks/advice on this? One thought I had was to use the rotary table on the mill to cut a relief (probably around 0.050") for the pipe to drop into the flange. I'm at least the downpipe away from final welding it up, but, if there are useful things to do in anticipation I'm all ears.

Tight joints, lots of tacks (I like 1" apart) , skip in between joints, good gas coverage, clean metal.

Mig with a 120v unit should be fine for exhaust tubing. The reason to skip between joints, and have so many tacks is to alleviate shifting from welding. Use only enough heat/amps/wirefeed rate to get and maintain the puddle. Run it an inch or so, move to a cool joint and let your last weld cool.
 
Next time the manifold is off I'll take some pictures. It's so tight because this is a 405 head using the K-jet holes. I had a friend turn the ID on the K-jet holders down to take the Bosch injector o-rings. The injector nozzles sit just on at the edge of the k-jet holder.

The fuel rail itself is affixed to a couple little brackets that are attached to the head using the k-jet bracket screws. Those are really simple: a steel tab behind the rail, a bit of 1/4" round stock, and another tab screwed onto the head. Seems nice and firm.
Ah, sweet. It seems like an ideal setup assuming the newer injectors don't mind being in the head with the associated heat.
 
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