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Any LH2.4 conversion experts in Dallas want $?

The reason I say that the medium sized blue wire goes to pin 6 on the round connector to the cluster, is that I have that part of the pnp harness cut out as well, still have the round connector the the blue wire goes directly to pin 6 on that connector. I cut all other wires to the round connector because they did not appear to attach to the LH harness in any way. Same with the pink wire going to pin 3 on the half-circle connector, that connector is still attached and that's where the pink wire goes... at least on the 89 244GL I pulled this harness from. But to clarify, I still have my '85 cluster installed and haven't done anything with the electronic cluster yet. The connectors for the electronic cluster that came with the pnp harness are just hanging loose.

It's taking me forever to get these high-res pictures onto my antique laptop, but here are some pictures of the connectors I cut off which bobxyz was requesting. The lh2.4 connector is indeed an 11-pin like I thought, it's just that there are only 9 wires coming out of the 2.4 harness now that I cut the connector off. This is because pins 10 and 11 on the connector are thick red, burned, and cut off close to the connector. Now that it's been a few months, I really can't remember why this is...not sure if that's how it was when I pulled the harness or if I'm the one who cut those two wires really close for some reason. They sure do look important though. I'll keep pouring over all the little reference videos I took at pnp when I pulled the harness.

lh2.4 11 pin connector:
1.blue
2.white/red
3.yel/red (thick)
4.green
5.blue/black
6.purple
7.(2x) white/pink
8.yel/red (thin)
9.pink
10.red (thick, burned, cut close)
11.red (thick, burned, cut close)







 
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Thanks for the connector pictures, and for the explanation of the as-yet-unused electronic console connectors. I misunderstood and thought you had the 9-pin LH2.4 connector. Ignore my previous comments, or at least some of them - they're not correct with the 11-pin connector.

I do have good notes on a '91 11-pin connector. It matches your '89 except for the color of the ign_start/park-neutral wire (yours is pink, the '91 is yel/blu):

1991 LH2.4 engine harness to cabin harness connector - 11 pin connector, end view female
_8 5 1
_9 6 2
10 7 3
11 x 4

1 blue. Switched +12v from ign switch #15 run+start, to LH-35 EZK-6
2 wt/red. A/C delay relay, A/C switch on, LH-15
3 yel/red-big. +12v to fuse 4, from system relay 87/2
4 green. A/C compressor on, LH-14
5 blue/blk. Dash Vss to LH-34
6 violet. Dash upshift light from LH-26
7 2x wt/pink. Dash CEL from LH-22 EZK-3
8 yel/red-small. +12v fuse 6, to O2 sensor power
9 yel/blue. Ign start switch, LH-30 (pink in '89)
10 red-big. +12v unswitched thru fuse 6, to system relay 30, LH-4, EZK-5
11 red-big. tied to above

The critical wire #s are: 1, 3, 10+11.

I'd wire #3 to big yel/red in your 4-pin connector and leave the other 3-of-4 unconnected.

#1 needs to go to ign switch #15. (The thin red/blk wire in the 4-pin connector might be ign switch #15 - you could check with an ohm meter.)

The two big red wires carry a lot of current. If the connector corrodes, it can cause local overheating. It's fairly common for repair shops to cut off these 2 red wires and wire around the connector if it's overheating. You'll need to find an unused fuse tab and run a big red wire across the dash to the LH harness connector.

Once rewired, turn the key on and verify that you have +12volts on the coil. Sometimes, the coil&ign module +12v needs to be wired separately, but I think it will already be powered from your original '85 wiring.

Next, get a noid light and see if the injectors pulse when cranking. Leave them unconnected until you've verified that they aren't trying to dump fuel continuously. If you tried running the low-impedance turbo injectors without the resistor pack, you may have damaged the ECU. The opposite case, NA high-impedance with resistor pack, won't damage anything but won't run.
 
BTW when connecting the ground wires to the intake manifold. Be sure to keep the connections separate. One ground is for the fuel computer and the other is for the ignition computer. Don't connect them together and use one spot. They each must be on a separate bolt on the intake manifold. If they are connected together it can cause signal noise issues.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. I spent the whole day screwing with it when I was supposed to be working another job, but oh well. I just decided to go pull the intake manifold, cut open the whole engine harness and trace the wires from every connector on the engine to their pins on the ECU and ICU. What I discovered got me really excited, which was that the CTS connector was hooked up to the knock sensor, and hooked up to the knock sensor was a connector for a cold start injector that this '89 harness has but that I don't need. THANKS Volvo for making all connectors identical so they can be mixed up... Anyway, got them all plugged in correctly for sure now, excitedly went to start it...and it still has the same symptoms :grrr:

Now I think it may have to do with the #10 and 11 burnt wires that are cut. Bobxyz, am I understanding correctly that I should run a thick wire from fuse #6 on the fuse panel to pin 30 on the injection relay? I'm going to go back out and look at this and see if it makes any sense...

This car has taken me from coffee to whiskey today.
 
I tried wiring Fuse 6 to fuel relay 30 just for fun, no change in anything.

Now I wonder if it's the blue wire which everyone says is an important ignition power wire. I promise though, my blue wire goes directly to #6 on the cluster round connector, that's exactly how I pulled it. What would happen if I ran the blue wire directly to 12v+ for testing purposes? Which brings me to my next concern, maybe all the poking wires around I've done has damaged the ECU, considering VB242's input from post #17. Although I really have been very careful about that and I don't think I've done anything especially stupid yet. I have my multimeter and diagrams at hand. I have a 94 945t that I could borrow the ECU from, but I don't want to risk damaging that one too so I don't know.

I have kept the intake ground wires separate. And I have checked the MAF wiring a few times but I could check it again.

I did omit the white wire from the splicing on my original 4-pin connector too, it isn't needed, nothing is different.

And the diagnostic port works again, it just says 1-1-1 on both pins (previously thought there were 3 test pins but there are 2)
 
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GolfClapperX said:
Alright, who has an LH 2.2 harness and computers that will work for me and how much do you want?
Click to expand...

Theres a 91 or 92 volvo 240 in the Pick N pul in dallas. I cant remember which one. Its been there for a month I think. I haven't been to it yet. WAs going to grab the abs stuff if it came with it.
 
Texas240 said:
Theres a 91 or 92 volvo 240 in the Pick N pul in dallas. I cant remember which one. Its been there for a month I think. I haven't been to it yet. WAs going to grab the abs stuff if it came with it.
Click to expand...

That would be LH 2.4 though. I've been meaning to go look at that car too. I'm now leaning towards an LH 2.4 conversion harness from Dave Barton. I don't really want to go LH 2.2. May as well spend a bunch of money to make sure everything is perfect under the hood, and then figure out the under dash stuff. If I had more time, I'd definitely just make a factory 240 N/A harness work like everyone else does. I'll try that again on my other '85 that's awaiting the same swap.
 
GolfClapperX said:
That would be LH 2.4 though. I've been meaning to go look at that car too. I'm now leaning towards an LH 2.4 conversion harness from Dave Barton. I don't really want to go LH 2.2. May as well spend a bunch of money to make sure everything is perfect under the hood, and then figure out the under dash stuff. If I had more time, I'd definitely just make a factory 240 N/A harness work like everyone else does. I'll try that again on my other '85 that's awaiting the same swap.
Click to expand...

Luckily Im rather good friends with Dave these days since he lives just about right where the toll road stops, take a left and bam!!!! His harness is really clean and well done #notanadd. Wish I could help you out but Ive been away from LH for several years now and struggled to get my 16vt running. I would say your best bet is to start with a fresh harness thats been labeled.
 
Well it makes sense that a blue wire goes to the dash cluster since blue is used for power to things like the cluster. However, the blue power wire is also used to power the coil. I ran it from the fuse box at a location that gets switched power. Volvo uses fuse 12 for that on LH2.4 cars. You don't have to use fuse 12 but use a switched fuse for that power source.
 
On my 2.2 to 2.4 conversion I hooked the coil like this, just plugged it in..

24coil.jpg


Basically you already have the coil power blue wire there at the coil if upgrading from 2.2 to 2.4. This also runs the tach. That red and white wire goes back to the tach. Just plug it in like I did in the center of this pic. LEt me find my other 2.2 to 2.4 upgrade pics. It was real easy. Unplug that plug and car quits running.

For that critical power while cranking one wire in the harness I hooked it to the wire that triggers the starter relay. That is the only wire you hook that wire to. I traced it from the starter to under the dash and then hooked it to that wire. It goes to the ignition switch of course.

The 2.4 harness I used is the older version that has the main 30 amp fuse power lead right at the battery, see it in the pic?
 
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First off, don't use the electronic cluster connectors from the '89 with the '85 cluster. The pins are different between the two. Specifically,
- pin 6 of round connector (31/6) is Alternator&AC_Relay on '85 but VSS on '89
- pin 3 of half circle connector (32/3) is the choke light on '85 but CEL on '89

Next, for noid lights, it looks like you found the right one. There's also cheaper ones that should work find (it's just a connector and a lamp, nothing fancy):
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27319-Piece-Noid-Light/dp/B01MZD76PK
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27161-Noid-Light-8-Piece/dp/B004FEHZZU
Overall, I think you're close to having it working. Switching to LH2.2 probably won't help -- you'll still need to figure out the engine harness to cabin connections, and you still need to figure out the injector issue.

Here's what I'd do for the cabin to harness wiring, including just the critical connections plus the O2 heater connection:
0) Unplug your injectors
1) Disconnect the 4-pin thin red/blk wire and measure it (to ground) with a volt meter. Is it 0volts with key off, +12v in run position and +12v while cranking? If so, you've found your ignition switch #15 wire. If not, you'll need to do some searching (or temporarily wire up a switch to provide switched +12v instead).
2) With key off, check that fuse #6 is +12v (direct from battery) and fuse#4 is 0v (fuel pump power).
3) With key on, check that there is +12v at the coil (blue).
4) Find the 2 big red wires in the engine harness and wire them to fuse #6 (you might want to disconnect the battery first since the fuse is live). These are power to the main white relay by the ECU/EZK connectors.
5) Connect the blue wire from the engine harness to the red/blk ignition switch #15 run/start wire in #1). Leave the '89 cluster connector dangling unconnected.
6) Connect the big yel/red wire from the engine harness to the big yel/red wire in the 4-pin connector. This is power from the main relay to the fuel pumps.
7) For the O2 heater, run a wire from fuse #4 to the small yel/red wire in the engine harness. (Optional for initial running, but you'll want this eventually.)
8) That should do it. If there are any leftover wire connections not covered by these steps, remove them for now.
9) Leave the injectors unplugged, plug in the noid light, and crank it briefly. Repeat this a couple times without turning the key off. Still without turning the key off, check for Diag codes. (I don't know if the ECU/EZK will post a code immediately, or if it takes a couple repetitions before posting a code). Also, did the noid light flash during cranking?
10) Report back with what you've found.

For you injectors and r-pack, they should be wired as follows:
- original big grn/wt main harness wire gets split into 4 smaller grn/wt wires, one to each injector. Leave this intact.
- original red/blk main harness wire gets split into 4 red/blk wires, one to each injector. Cut the main wire and heat shrink, or tape, the stub.
- splice 4 long wires onto each of the 4 red/blk injector wires. Run these to the outer 4 pins of the 6-pin (2x3) r-pack connector. It doesn't matter what order.
- splice a power wire (blue if you have it) from the center pin on the r-pack connector (only 1 of the 2 should have a connector tab in it) to +12v on the coil (blue).

Hope this helps. If any of this isn't clear, or you found some typos, please ask first.

Edit: One more thought - double check that you have the blue wire and not the blue-black wire. If dirty and poorly lit, they can fool you.
 
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Thanks for the help everyone, this is really good information. I really want to go out in the cold/dark and look into this stuff right now but I know I'll regret it when the alarm goes off at 4:30AM for work. Might do it anyway. Nothing Red Bull can't fix, right?
 
apachechef said:
blown injector drivers
Click to expand...

Alright, I still haven't gotten back to it because I worked too much today. But I wouldn't doubt blown injector drivers at this point. I was pretty disturbed to find that these ECU's go for $140 on Ebay. Anyone ever repaired their injector drivers? I think I can handle some precision soldering.
 
Just an update: I got back to this project this weekend and got nowhere. I decided to set my pride aside and buy what I had hoped would be the simplest solution, an LH 2.4 conversion harness from Dave Barton. The harness is beautiful and I kind of wanted to take it to bed and cuddle with it, but I decided to install it on the car. So the whole engine compartment side of the harness was perfectly simple plug and play. The under dash part is still a mystery. Five wires in the new harness were not the same color they were supposed to be according to the included diagram. However, I think I figured that part out. Once I traced the blue wire from pin 30 in the ECU and ran it to a 12v switched source, everything powered up like before. BUT behold, my symptoms are 100% identical now to what they were with the last harness. It starts, dies, floods terribly. Gas was coming out of the downpipe at about the rate that an electric carburetor pump would pump fuel. Now with the new harness I have triple-checked to make sure no connectors are misplaced, like the ECT connector, but it's all in the correct spot.

Now I need to go back and pour over you guys' advice from the last several posts again. This is basically just an update to a project I find unbelievably annoying...

But I do wonder if the injector drivers in my ECU are indeed dead. That's one thing I need to do is go get the ECU off of one of my 940t's in storage and find out.
 
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