It's just natural, pipe size is way too small compared to what is needed. Especially the stock rear muffler is restrictive because it's not a straight through. My 965 B6254T made only 0.3bar boost with HX40, 3" dp, stock mufflers and no screamer.
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245 GL -90 "B6284T" and other 6-cyl builds
- Thread starter Lankku
- Start date
From the passenger seat it feels like it should. Winter, winter tires and one tire fire aren't the best for testing the real performance 
Owner is in the process of installing/getting a LSD or such. I'm just tuning it.
It has a BMW GS6-53DZ, Sachs SRE -765 pressure plate and sintered disc.
Owner is in the process of installing/getting a LSD or such. I'm just tuning it.It has a BMW GS6-53DZ, Sachs SRE -765 pressure plate and sintered disc.
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2009
- Location
- NW Georgia
Herr Flying Fin,
Am I correct in understanding you run a stock 2 series 1031 rear end, with just TrueTrac LSD?
Have you yet twisted off an axle in this DANA rear end? I'm curious how long the OEM rear will withstand the torque you have been applying. Still with original Volvo 2 pcs. driveshaft (Prop shaft)?, or did you revise to single piece shaft?
Impressive, as always!
Am I correct in understanding you run a stock 2 series 1031 rear end, with just TrueTrac LSD?
Have you yet twisted off an axle in this DANA rear end? I'm curious how long the OEM rear will withstand the torque you have been applying. Still with original Volvo 2 pcs. driveshaft (Prop shaft)?, or did you revise to single piece shaft?
Impressive, as always!
Everything behind the transmission is stock. One piece driveshaft might not even fit without cutting the floor and would need a slip yoke.
Driveshaft is on it's third rear u-joint because of wear. Right hand axle has had a barely noticeable twist for years without a change. I'm not giving clutch kicks with slicks or such. Torque isn't the thing braking stuf, it's the hard hit from a launch, etc.
Driveshaft is on it's third rear u-joint because of wear. Right hand axle has had a barely noticeable twist for years without a change. I'm not giving clutch kicks with slicks or such. Torque isn't the thing braking stuf, it's the hard hit from a launch, etc.
Recently bought a -87 745 Turbo which had a broken stock LSD and swapped in a newer rear axle with G80. Decided to use the old one as a base for the -92 axle swap. Had it sandblasted and got started on the swap a week ago.
Made new control arm and handbrake cable brackets out of a 5mm flat bar, moved the panhard mount. Had sleeves machined for BMW E90/etc. rear lower control arm bushings to replace the stock big bushings. It is same type of balljoint-type bushing as on the other end of upper control arms.
Centered the axle and was going to change just the Truetrac and aluminium cover from old axle but decided to swap ring and pinion too. I like the current gearing and now I didn't have to grind and reweld the speedo tone ring. There was really surprising amount of loose rust inside the axle tubes. Had to push a towel twice through on both sides to clean them. Changed new handbrake shoes.
With wider rear end comes the need to widen the wheel arches. Not much is needed because axle is more forward. Center of the arch is around 1" out. Removed the outer side of inner arch completely, pushed the sides out with wood blocks and welded them back in with strips of sheet metal. Had to do some rust repairs at the same time too. Cut spare wheel wells, rear doors and rocker panel and welded some more stuff to make the transition smoother.
Made new brackets for rear mudflaps out of aluminium, threw some paint, rock chip protector and anti-rust agent around.
All this year's pics here.
Cleaned it today after work and took it for a small spin. No extra vibrations or noise and seems to behave as expected. Naturally studded winter tire won't give too accurate steering feel. Hopefully by the end of the week I can take some photos on daylight with another stock 245 to make the difference stand out better.
Now it just needs a pair of (original) 20mm spacers to the front for an even track width.
Made new control arm and handbrake cable brackets out of a 5mm flat bar, moved the panhard mount. Had sleeves machined for BMW E90/etc. rear lower control arm bushings to replace the stock big bushings. It is same type of balljoint-type bushing as on the other end of upper control arms.
Centered the axle and was going to change just the Truetrac and aluminium cover from old axle but decided to swap ring and pinion too. I like the current gearing and now I didn't have to grind and reweld the speedo tone ring. There was really surprising amount of loose rust inside the axle tubes. Had to push a towel twice through on both sides to clean them. Changed new handbrake shoes.
With wider rear end comes the need to widen the wheel arches. Not much is needed because axle is more forward. Center of the arch is around 1" out. Removed the outer side of inner arch completely, pushed the sides out with wood blocks and welded them back in with strips of sheet metal. Had to do some rust repairs at the same time too. Cut spare wheel wells, rear doors and rocker panel and welded some more stuff to make the transition smoother.
Made new brackets for rear mudflaps out of aluminium, threw some paint, rock chip protector and anti-rust agent around.
All this year's pics here.
Cleaned it today after work and took it for a small spin. No extra vibrations or noise and seems to behave as expected. Naturally studded winter tire won't give too accurate steering feel. Hopefully by the end of the week I can take some photos on daylight with another stock 245 to make the difference stand out better.
Now it just needs a pair of (original) 20mm spacers to the front for an even track width.
Finally weather was good enough and I had time to take a couple of shots outside. You have to look for a while to be able tell that body has changed. Which is good 
I was able to swap universal spacers to a pair of originals and already bought a set of longer bolts. Only have to have the insides machined to make them fit over front hubs.
I was able to swap universal spacers to a pair of originals and already bought a set of longer bolts. Only have to have the insides machined to make them fit over front hubs.
In the beginning of January -92 got 144 rear door window frames for added lightness. Took some drilling and time to make them fit. Two bolt holes were on the same place as original spot welds. 2.6kg weight loss in total.
Had alignment checked, now front has 1? camber. Rear axle had toe out and it felt like it. I gave some heat to both sides near the diff and now toe is zero.
Bought new rear trailing arms because originals have seen better days. Swapped violet Panhard poly to black. Old battery had shown signs for a long time and cold start from -6C?/21F resulted in 86rpm and around 8.9-9V. Still started on the first try. Bought a new 12Ah AGM and now it cranks and fires up just fine when -18C?/0F. And it's still on E85.
Last Sunday had a possibility and time to visit an ice track. Battled old and worn spikes on to too wide(6,5") rims. At least those are better than regular studded tires. A couple of laps and a couple of visits to soft snow banks. First time managed to drive it out but second time went so far that it needed a tug. Neither occasion got captured on camera
Nothing broke and it was fun.
Some clips, doesn't sound like a regular B200F
https://youtu.be/bDdIP4ySiWY
Though the exhaust sound has changed since last fall, maybe the mufflers are worn.
A bit of snow in the underbody:
Otherwise I've been just dailying it. On colder weather I've driven other 245/945's.
Had alignment checked, now front has 1? camber. Rear axle had toe out and it felt like it. I gave some heat to both sides near the diff and now toe is zero.
Bought new rear trailing arms because originals have seen better days. Swapped violet Panhard poly to black. Old battery had shown signs for a long time and cold start from -6C?/21F resulted in 86rpm and around 8.9-9V. Still started on the first try. Bought a new 12Ah AGM and now it cranks and fires up just fine when -18C?/0F. And it's still on E85.
Last Sunday had a possibility and time to visit an ice track. Battled old and worn spikes on to too wide(6,5") rims. At least those are better than regular studded tires. A couple of laps and a couple of visits to soft snow banks. First time managed to drive it out but second time went so far that it needed a tug. Neither occasion got captured on camera
Nothing broke and it was fun.Some clips, doesn't sound like a regular B200F
https://youtu.be/bDdIP4ySiWY
Though the exhaust sound has changed since last fall, maybe the mufflers are worn.
A bit of snow in the underbody:
Otherwise I've been just dailying it. On colder weather I've driven other 245/945's.
Last year I was thinking of changing things a bit. Less than two weeks ago the "pressure" got too high and the next weekend I took the engine and tranny out of "B6284T" and dropped them into -92. Result is around 200kg/440lbs lighter and 3.73 gears instead of 3.31. Got it running on Sunday night but still had lots to do.
Swapped the exhaust and main fuel line(with one pump) too. Removed a dead intank pump. Notched rear passenger floor to clear the exhaust just like in the other one. Replaced the front muffler with a pipe, the insides were dropping out when hammering it loose
Spot the difference between a 3" and 3.5"
I'm using MS2-style ECU which was in the car before and had settings for that which were pretty close. Made sure those were good but later forgot to check basic timing because there was no light at hand. Both ECU's use the trigger differently and there was 15? too much timing. Found out that after headgasket started leaking last Wednesday. Changed the gasket and slapped back together. Redid upper and lower radiator hoses. Seems to be working just fine for now and pulls nicely.
Last Saturday installed all gauges that "B6284T" had, made a small heat shield for the air cleaner, installed breather can, etc. Made some test pulls and spark was running out around 1.2-1.3bar boost. And that's how it looks now.
On Sunday did a couple(13) of 1/4 mile pulls and it went pretty well. Fastest was 12.032s, 204.20km/h(126.88mph), 60ft 2.420s. And with only ~1.2bar/17-18psi(still on E85).
205/50/16 Federal semi-slicks and launching on 2nd gear, no tacho or launch control of any kind. It's a bog or spin type of situation. Should've tested 1st gear too but it's way shorter than before. And would've put Polaris with 225/45 semis but they might hit on compression because I widened the rear wheel arches with smaller tires in mind. Though there is room on the inside.
In comparison three years ago "B6284T" went 11.670s, 211.51km/h(131.42mph), 60ft 2.078s. And that was with 2.1-2.2bar boost
Shows what you get with better "setup".
I have incar but naturally forgot to turn on the camera for the fastest. A friend took some shots but also missed the last two fastest ones. Here is a slower, it get's going after a while:
https://youtu.be/Q7hGbpeuAPA
I would've tried for a high 11s but on the last two pulls fan fuse was blown and it might have gotten a bit hot, though the gauge was normal. No issues after that. Yesterday morning felt like spark was going out on 0.9bar and changed new spark plugs. That fixed it but old RWD coils still start losing spark around 1.3bar. So I've got to change FWD coils that the engine had before.
Driveability is much better than before because of the weight and gear ratio. Engine feels completely reborn in character and more enjoyable.
"B6284T" will have something else in the future. Current build regulations use power to weight ratio for max allowed hp. Current measured weight is used for the final number and 301hp does give some possibilities.
Swapped the exhaust and main fuel line(with one pump) too. Removed a dead intank pump. Notched rear passenger floor to clear the exhaust just like in the other one. Replaced the front muffler with a pipe, the insides were dropping out when hammering it loose
Spot the difference between a 3" and 3.5"
I'm using MS2-style ECU which was in the car before and had settings for that which were pretty close. Made sure those were good but later forgot to check basic timing because there was no light at hand. Both ECU's use the trigger differently and there was 15? too much timing. Found out that after headgasket started leaking last Wednesday. Changed the gasket and slapped back together. Redid upper and lower radiator hoses. Seems to be working just fine for now and pulls nicely.
Last Saturday installed all gauges that "B6284T" had, made a small heat shield for the air cleaner, installed breather can, etc. Made some test pulls and spark was running out around 1.2-1.3bar boost. And that's how it looks now.
On Sunday did a couple(13) of 1/4 mile pulls and it went pretty well. Fastest was 12.032s, 204.20km/h(126.88mph), 60ft 2.420s. And with only ~1.2bar/17-18psi(still on E85).
205/50/16 Federal semi-slicks and launching on 2nd gear, no tacho or launch control of any kind. It's a bog or spin type of situation. Should've tested 1st gear too but it's way shorter than before. And would've put Polaris with 225/45 semis but they might hit on compression because I widened the rear wheel arches with smaller tires in mind. Though there is room on the inside.
In comparison three years ago "B6284T" went 11.670s, 211.51km/h(131.42mph), 60ft 2.078s. And that was with 2.1-2.2bar boost
Shows what you get with better "setup".I have incar but naturally forgot to turn on the camera for the fastest. A friend took some shots but also missed the last two fastest ones. Here is a slower, it get's going after a while
:https://youtu.be/Q7hGbpeuAPA
I would've tried for a high 11s but on the last two pulls fan fuse was blown and it might have gotten a bit hot, though the gauge was normal. No issues after that. Yesterday morning felt like spark was going out on 0.9bar and changed new spark plugs. That fixed it but old RWD coils still start losing spark around 1.3bar. So I've got to change FWD coils that the engine had before.
Driveability is much better than before because of the weight and gear ratio. Engine feels completely reborn in character and more enjoyable.
"B6284T" will have something else in the future. Current build regulations use power to weight ratio for max allowed hp. Current measured weight is used for the final number and 301hp does give some possibilities.
Last edited:
Ginger Ninja
Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2011
- Location
- Australia
Your build updates always make me want to swap a whiteblock in my 245!
Great stuff.
Great stuff.
poulrais
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Location
- Quebec, CAN
This build thread convinced me to swap a B6284t in my 740.
It's not that big of an operation
Sorry not sorry.
Last Thursday coming from work engine sputtered shortly and died. Fuel pump crapped itself completely without a warning just like the previous AEM did in the "B6284T". Both got completely stuck. First one was 380lph version and this 400lph lasted barely 1600km/1000miles
I tried knocking the 400lph pump and rotated it backwards, but no change. Took the K-jet copy pump out of "B6284T" for a temporary fix.Ordered a Hellcat-type Walbro but a smaller 450lph version. No need for a bigger one. Installed it today and at the same time changed the pipe in to a 10mm, installed a new feed wire, etc.. Just clipped the stock plastic pump holder with side cutters and used a hose clamp to pinch the pump inside. Slipping the package inside the tank was tight but not bad.
Managed to apply some paint mist on to parts while spraying primer.
Yesterday checked the breather can situation and there was barely anything. I installed it before 1/4 mile and have driven around 900km/560miles after that without checking. Not too bad. Oil consumption is the same as before so it looks like ringlands are still good. I was a bit suspicious because of the timing issue after the swap.
I was still suspicious of broken ringland(s) and did a compression test. It showed 11.5-12.5bar when cold. Warm engine had 10 on first cylinder and the rest were the same. There were also signs of oil on 1. and 2. cyl. pistons.
A week ago on Sunday did a teardown and pistons were okay. There was oil on top of every piston so it was because of piston rings even though they felt and seemed to be ok. T4/T5/T6 has three different types of pistons and naturally I had a ring set for a different type. Swapped the pistons to ones with presumably good rings and slapped bottom end back together.
Luckily 240 has an easy access cross member
Checked the valves with brake cleaner and almost all were leaking. Seems like the compression drop on cyl 1 was because of them. ~2.5 years ago after I got the engine together I adjusted the cams. While engine rotated freely by hand, the sound it made when running meant that intake valves did meet the pistons. It has worked fine ever since so I wasn't too worried. Head got machined on Monday and installed it the same evening. Wastegate inlet flange showed signs of leakage and I filed it straight.
On Tuesday evening installed the rest of the stuff, ran it hot with a "cleaning" oil and changed driving oil and filter.
Radiator(Griffin) had been dripping between left end tank and upper fins for almost two years already and lately it had developed into a leak. Soda blasted the spot, gave it some heat and dropped car body solder on to it. For now seems to be holding fine.
On Wednesday swapped in FWD coils which this engine had before and now it has again good enough spark for higher boost. Friday was the day for a routine check before going to the track, change of front brake pads and install of new 224/45/17 Federal RS-PRO on to Comets.
Vrcf trackday on Saturday was on Botniaring which is a 800km/500miles round trip. Basic operation is to drive there and back including the track time. With the longer layout it's a nice track.
First set went smoothly but on the second run the car started shaking bad like having a broken u-joint. Engine died and shaking stopped when depressing the clutch so it wasn't a driveline issue. Rolled in to the pits and found a broken harmonic balancer that had ground the crank sensor and bent the sensor bracket. Trigger wheel kept the piece in place and nothing else was broken.
Removed the disc, bent the sensor bracket back and it fired up just fine. Revved the engine some and no apparent changes in behaviour. Curiosity got me and decided to take it back to the track with low rpm. Drove two sessions gradually driving faster but leisurely, until front brakes got too hot, without any issues. Drove all the tighter turns on 4th gear and it went surprisingly well. Braked like a granny too I'm really liking the tires, good grip all round and more quiet on the road than the old 205/50/16 RS-R.
An incar lap and a short outside shot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8p7nUrYUdM
After getting home made a check up and replaced the balancer. Still couldn't make a clear difference in resonances. If there is going to be consequences then there is
Some assembly required?
Didn't find anything big while going through the car, just a leaking left rear wheel bearing inner seal and a deteriorated fuel tank cap seal. It spilled a little on tight left turns.
Liking the Comets as well, didn't think they'd fit to the look. A shot of a dirty car after the track time.
Around 1400km/875miles driven after last Tuesday evening. Before there were visible oil puffs every now and then after a long engine brake, now it can't be seen from the mirror so something went right
A week ago on Sunday did a teardown and pistons were okay. There was oil on top of every piston so it was because of piston rings even though they felt and seemed to be ok. T4/T5/T6 has three different types of pistons and naturally I had a ring set for a different type. Swapped the pistons to ones with presumably good rings and slapped bottom end back together.
Luckily 240 has an easy access cross member
Checked the valves with brake cleaner and almost all were leaking. Seems like the compression drop on cyl 1 was because of them. ~2.5 years ago after I got the engine together I adjusted the cams. While engine rotated freely by hand, the sound it made when running meant that intake valves did meet the pistons. It has worked fine ever since so I wasn't too worried. Head got machined on Monday and installed it the same evening. Wastegate inlet flange showed signs of leakage and I filed it straight.
On Tuesday evening installed the rest of the stuff, ran it hot with a "cleaning" oil and changed driving oil and filter.
Radiator(Griffin) had been dripping between left end tank and upper fins for almost two years already and lately it had developed into a leak. Soda blasted the spot, gave it some heat and dropped car body solder on to it. For now seems to be holding fine.
On Wednesday swapped in FWD coils which this engine had before and now it has again good enough spark for higher boost. Friday was the day for a routine check before going to the track, change of front brake pads and install of new 224/45/17 Federal RS-PRO on to Comets.
Vrcf trackday on Saturday was on Botniaring which is a 800km/500miles round trip. Basic operation is to drive there and back including the track time. With the longer layout it's a nice track.
First set went smoothly but on the second run the car started shaking bad like having a broken u-joint. Engine died and shaking stopped when depressing the clutch so it wasn't a driveline issue. Rolled in to the pits and found a broken harmonic balancer that had ground the crank sensor and bent the sensor bracket. Trigger wheel kept the piece in place and nothing else was broken.
Removed the disc, bent the sensor bracket back and it fired up just fine. Revved the engine some and no apparent changes in behaviour. Curiosity got me and decided to take it back to the track with low rpm. Drove two sessions gradually driving faster but leisurely, until front brakes got too hot, without any issues. Drove all the tighter turns on 4th gear and it went surprisingly well. Braked like a granny too
I'm really liking the tires, good grip all round and more quiet on the road than the old 205/50/16 RS-R.An incar lap and a short outside shot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8p7nUrYUdM
After getting home made a check up and replaced the balancer. Still couldn't make a clear difference in resonances. If there is going to be consequences then there is
Some assembly required?
Didn't find anything big while going through the car, just a leaking left rear wheel bearing inner seal and a deteriorated fuel tank cap seal. It spilled a little on tight left turns.
Liking the Comets as well, didn't think they'd fit to the look. A shot of a dirty car after the track time.
Around 1400km/875miles driven after last Tuesday evening. Before there were visible oil puffs every now and then after a long engine brake, now it can't be seen from the mirror so something went right
For a while I've had adapters on the shelf for P2 305mm front brake swap with 286mm brackets. Borrowed 302mm grooved discs from another project and they seem to fit fine with this combo. Depending on the pad it comes ~1mm over the edge of the disc and that can be adjusted.
Next thing is the pads. No one seems to have EBC on stock and Ferodo DS2500 is pretty expensive compared to that. It's around $130 vs $340. For now thinking of using a good stock pad but who knows if it's any better with extra cooling than the stock brakes with DS2500? Though a couple of laps at a time is enough.
Next thing is the pads. No one seems to have EBC on stock and Ferodo DS2500 is pretty expensive compared to that. It's around $130 vs $340. For now thinking of using a good stock pad but who knows if it's any better with extra cooling than the stock brakes with DS2500? Though a couple of laps at a time is enough.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2002
- Location
- Rockville, MD
The 305 rotors are super heavy and very mediocre. The 302 is much better, the 316x28 ain't bad either.
I read the post about weights and that's why 302mm was the only choice from the beginning. I had a set of 305mm brakes years ago on two other cars and can't go any bigger on this car. Not only because of the extra weight but because even with 305mm Galaxies won't fit without more work or a spacer.
Friday evening went by while installing Ferodo front pads(got a decent price on them) with the bigger front brakes, new front control arms with stiffer polybushings, new pinion seal, greasing front wheel bearings and doing other stuff like emptying the breather can. Pinion seal had been leaking since new when I swapped rear gears.
Brakes weren't great. I could press the pedal to the floor even after pumping. On Saturday morning tested the order of brake lines but it didn't matter. Only swapping in the Mustang main cylinder from "B6284T" fixed the situation. Weird how P2 calipers have worked fine on three other cars with stock main cylinder and even with stock junction block.
After getting the brakes working I headed down to local track(Motopark) for a couple of laps. It's pretty quick with only 1.5bar boost. Just ran out of extra fuel, would've liked to do more laps. It was already almost 2 seconds faster with a bit less power than "B6284T" before I flipped it. Weight does wonders. Didn't really feel like I was pushing hard yet.
Early on I tightened front shocks 2 clicks, rears one and increased rear tire pressure. Got the handling better but springs are too soft for that track. I ordered stiffer front springs but they didn't arrive yet. RS-PRO's are pretty good but felt like RS-R on "B6284T" had more grip all round. Yes, I know RS-R is softer. Couldn't really push early coming out of the corners on 4th gear because of rear grip. For 3rd gear I had to really line it straight Needs wider and softer rear tires.
Brakes felt good after getting the fronts warm, no complaints. Going home the front was shaking bad and had to stop to check the wheels. Immediately lifted it up and front brakes were dragging. Brake booster rod needs a modified extension with Mustang MC and I had left it just a tiny bit too much out Front pads wore alot, no other issues.
Engine lost some oil and basically all of it was in the breather can. That has been a regular thing on track. Friend has a 945 "T6" and he has separate cans for the lines coming from original breather and the one coming from the sump. Only the can of the sump line has oil in it. We're thinking that centrifugal force lifts oil in acceleration and corners in to the line. Then both crankcase pressure and braking moves the oil forward and into the can. Also when oil plugs a breather line, it might sometimes make the dipstick pop up when pushing harder. Needs a revision and it's in the works.
A shaky(more genuine?) 245 incar because of better sound and a some looks to the gauges, a short drive by and one lap of friends 945 "T6".
https://youtu.be/REtPOnmmX3U
Last fall built and installed the 945 engine, not including the electronics, intercooler and such. This is how it left. It does also have a working AC.
Brakes weren't great. I could press the pedal to the floor even after pumping. On Saturday morning tested the order of brake lines but it didn't matter. Only swapping in the Mustang main cylinder from "B6284T" fixed the situation. Weird how P2 calipers have worked fine on three other cars with stock main cylinder and even with stock junction block.
After getting the brakes working I headed down to local track(Motopark) for a couple of laps. It's pretty quick with only 1.5bar boost. Just ran out of extra fuel, would've liked to do more laps. It was already almost 2 seconds faster with a bit less power than "B6284T" before I flipped it. Weight does wonders. Didn't really feel like I was pushing hard yet.
Early on I tightened front shocks 2 clicks, rears one and increased rear tire pressure. Got the handling better but springs are too soft for that track. I ordered stiffer front springs but they didn't arrive yet. RS-PRO's are pretty good but felt like RS-R on "B6284T" had more grip all round. Yes, I know RS-R is softer. Couldn't really push early coming out of the corners on 4th gear because of rear grip. For 3rd gear I had to really line it straight
Needs wider and softer rear tires.Brakes felt good after getting the fronts warm, no complaints. Going home the front was shaking bad and had to stop to check the wheels. Immediately lifted it up and front brakes were dragging. Brake booster rod needs a modified extension with Mustang MC and I had left it just a tiny bit too much out
Front pads wore alot, no other issues.Engine lost some oil and basically all of it was in the breather can. That has been a regular thing on track. Friend has a 945 "T6" and he has separate cans for the lines coming from original breather and the one coming from the sump. Only the can of the sump line has oil in it. We're thinking that centrifugal force lifts oil in acceleration and corners in to the line. Then both crankcase pressure and braking moves the oil forward and into the can. Also when oil plugs a breather line, it might sometimes make the dipstick pop up when pushing harder. Needs a revision and it's in the works.
A shaky(more genuine?
) 245 incar because of better sound and a some looks to the gauges, a short drive by and one lap of friends 945 "T6".https://youtu.be/REtPOnmmX3U
Last fall built and installed the 945 engine, not including the electronics, intercooler and such. This is how it left. It does also have a working AC.
M_Anstrom
New member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2021
- Location
- Georgia/Florida Border
Sir, I am soooo glad I decided to research the B6284T engine and find your thread. Between how well you've documented all of this over the years along with the amazing quality of work, I'm searching through the classifieds near me to follow in these footsteps.
Cheers from the Georgia/Florida border.
Cheers from the Georgia/Florida border.
Thanks
It's been again a while since the last update. There have been a couple of different projects and other ways to bide my time. Such as converting a S90(not mine) in to a "T6" with original engine and T6 turbos.
Installed 9kg(~500lbs) front springs in to the -92. Feels much better with the same shock adjustment than old 8kg(~450lbs) springs. Changed basic front pads, Ferodos were done
Bought 245/40/17 Federal RS-Pros for the rear. There are FWD wheels with suitable width but they weigh 1.7-1.8kg more than the (cheap)Tomason TN1 which I chose. Well, it's a track only combo anyway Waiting for the next summer to try them out.
There was some shake coming from the driveline when giving any gas or engine braking. Rear U-joint was the culprit and I made a quick fix by swapping the rear half of the drive shaft before making a ~300mile trip. Should change new rear joints to both halves.
End of last month the clutch pedal felt weird when as I was parking the car at work. Pumping the pedal made it go limp and after work took a look at it. The rod going to the main cylinder was broken and at first I thought that's it. After fixing that I noticed that the rod bracket in the pedal had broken loose. Pipe of the pedal had cracked around the welds so I bent it back and welded again.
Last Saturday did some dyno pulls. Low boost was fine up to around 1.7bar but after that it felt like losing spark. It might show some signs at the end of those pulls too. There was no time to fiddle around so I'll just change the plugs and maybe take a coil or two along for the next try(when that happens). 523.7whp which makes around 602hp with theoretical 15% loss. And that also means a 223hp base engine. Wheel torque was 662.8Nm.
Otherwise I've been just driving the -92 around. Except last couple of weeks which I've been driving a -95 965 that I bought with a cracked oil pan, disassembled interior and both cat and sunroof missing(sold). Bought another sunroof, assembled the interior, etc. Fixed the pan by swapping in the old NA engine and tranny of the -92
965 did and does need some other work too but I'll write about that in the next post.
It's been again a while since the last update. There have been a couple of different projects and other ways to bide my time. Such as converting a S90(not mine) in to a "T6" with original engine and T6 turbos.
Installed 9kg(~500lbs) front springs in to the -92. Feels much better with the same shock adjustment than old 8kg(~450lbs) springs. Changed basic front pads, Ferodos were done
Bought 245/40/17 Federal RS-Pros for the rear. There are FWD wheels with suitable width but they weigh 1.7-1.8kg more than the (cheap)Tomason TN1 which I chose. Well, it's a track only combo anyway
Waiting for the next summer to try them out.There was some shake coming from the driveline when giving any gas or engine braking. Rear U-joint was the culprit and I made a quick fix by swapping the rear half of the drive shaft before making a ~300mile trip. Should change new rear joints to both halves.
End of last month the clutch pedal felt weird when as I was parking the car at work. Pumping the pedal made it go limp and after work took a look at it. The rod going to the main cylinder was broken and at first I thought that's it. After fixing that I noticed that the rod bracket in the pedal had broken loose. Pipe of the pedal had cracked around the welds so I bent it back and welded again.
Last Saturday did some dyno pulls. Low boost was fine up to around 1.7bar but after that it felt like losing spark. It might show some signs at the end of those pulls too. There was no time to fiddle around so I'll just change the plugs and maybe take a coil or two along for the next try(when that happens). 523.7whp which makes around 602hp with theoretical 15% loss. And that also means a 223hp base engine. Wheel torque was 662.8Nm.
Otherwise I've been just driving the -92 around. Except last couple of weeks which I've been driving a -95 965 that I bought with a cracked oil pan, disassembled interior and both cat and sunroof missing(sold). Bought another sunroof, assembled the interior, etc. Fixed the pan by swapping in the old NA engine and tranny of the -92
965 did and does need some other work too but I'll write about that in the next post.