Tfrasca
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2015
- Location
- Ben Lomond, CA
That was quick! This makes me want to want to scrap my engine swap and steal the 2.0 from my wife's Escape...
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242 2.3L Ecoboost 6spd Swap **Picture Heavy**
- Thread starter jstblz
- Start date
Lol it's not that quick. I wanted to make sure I had a running car before telling anyone about it, but I've been working on it since late November. On the free weekends and evenings. Covid did slow things down a lot.
Do it. Especially if you can fit the engine in (length and height). The 2L with the controls pack drives super well (amazing DBW throttle feel), and still returns near OEM fuel economy.
With the 2L, you can swap on the 2.3 intake, oil pan, and upper water pipe. Basically making all the accessories be RWD oriented for a few hundred dollars.
There's also a ford t5 adapter kit, or you can use the mustang trans/flywheel/clutch/starter.
Or you can use a NC miata trans/clutch/flywheel/starter and pray it holds together (it won't btw...), but it's really easy to make it work.
vertigosity
Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2008
- Location
- Memphis, TN
2.0T is a little shorter (difference between the 2.0, 2.3, and 2.5 is all in deck height + stroke), but Ford stopped making the "control pack" for it due to lack of interest / to focus (pun intended?) on the 2.3T kit. I'm not sure if the 2.3T control pack would directly work, but it would definitely need to be retuned, for whatever that's worth. Maybe someone dumped the 2.0T pack's ECU's tune and you can just directly load it? Not really a lot of good information out there on oddball configurations, kinda just have to dive in.
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
You could just use the MT-82...
That's too logical for TB, and you know this!
Wilford Brimley
Is posting from the grave
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Location
- Marysville, wa
****in whoa dudeWorking on the cage
My main focus was to add safety, but be as unobtrusive as possible as I'm 6'5" 300lbs and this isn't a "full race" build.
Plates added for front posts and main hoop
Rear section
The dash structure still fits!
Up next is the seat mounting and making the harness and door bars to finish the cage.
My main focus was to add safety, but be as unobtrusive as possible as I'm 6'5" 300lbs and this isn't a "full race" build.
Plates added for front posts and main hoop
Rear section
The dash structure still fits!
Up next is the seat mounting and making the harness and door bars to finish the cage.
permavirgin777
Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2018
Interesting, Great work.
I've given thought to doing something similar around the fuel sender area. I still might, just have a better idea of what it will look like now...
I've given thought to doing something similar around the fuel sender area. I still might, just have a better idea of what it will look like now...
I've seen a few cages done like this and wondered why - specifically where the tubes land on the rear wheel tubs.
In a car with strut tops near there it would make sense, but in 240s the dampers and springs mount on the chassis rail inboard of the wheel tub.
Would it not be stronger / give more rigidity to the car to run the cage through the rear firewall and land it in between the spring and damper mounts?
I'm not criticising, I'm just hoping to learn something!
You are 100% correct. Running the downtubes to the rear wheel wells isn't the best idea on a 240. Its a lot better to go through the rear firewall and down to the frame rails where the shock/spring are mounted.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2002
- Location
- Rockville, MD
Its much better to run it to the frame rail like you are saying... its easier to run it to the wheel wells so that where people go.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2008
- Location
- NE Ohio
So cool!
megulon-7
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2008
- Location
- No Pants Island
What is this car going to be used for? (besides dropping panties, obvs.)
Thanks!
Road course, Auto-X, and random flashlight drags. Kinda tooling around in something unique.
After going back and forth with my friend, we decided to put them there because of the metal's thickness and it's almost a 45 degree angle. It may be stronger, but they are mostly out of the way and that cross bar gives the side to side support. It'll pass SCCA requirements so every other part is based on adding rigidity followed by appearance.
Cage is finished! (minus painting)
The seat mounting was moved back and lowered so I could fit the taller seats and my tall body comfortably.
The seat are actually the same height when fully installed.
Door bars are a little over the bolsters to protect the seats from wear, but still fit under the arm rests
I can still get the extinguisher out with one hand
Pause for a fashion shoot...
Last edited:
Dirty Rick
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2013
- Location
- Cornholio, OR
Total loss of side impact protection