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Old 07-25-2008, 02:44 PM   #51
OldSchoolEuro
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Damnit I wish I hadnt ****ed up getting that plug outta the block. Would have looked a little cleaner....
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:02 PM   #52
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i didnt have any problem when doing belts..
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:03 AM   #53
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must have a different alt then
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Old 07-27-2008, 10:11 PM   #54
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Ok I've done this! Um, mitsu 13c from a 700-something, into an 88 245. Um everything's cool everything's peachy (i.e., no _expensive_ noises yet and it actually RUNS!!!) but this thing is not quite right yet so I have a question for anyone that might know. (If you do 'know' PLEASE skip all the crap below to the bottom where my question is.) But first I'll say a few things about what I've done in case someone else tries doing this. I'll take pictures in a bit if anyone wants. I'm basically ratting this thing but I'm trying to pay attention to the things that people on this board have said really matter. . .spend money where there's no gettin around it.

Um ok the intake - I pulled the intercooler and all the intake hoses off the jy car. It all works great. For the airbox -> amm -> snail deal I'm reusing all stock plumbing. I cut the top half of the airbox off so the filter is exposed, and put it up near the right headlight, under the sheet metal. Stock hard plastic 90* from that to the amm, then the original flexy intake hose from the amm to the turbo. I know it's kinda ****ty but it works for now and it doesn't leak. I blocked off one port (the old idle air valve port I think?) and am using the other one for the vacuum line to the PCV. Oh ps I ripped out the non-functional (the hoses had broken long before I had the car) a/c so there's room in the grill area. Today I ran a compressor set at ~20psi to pressure test the whole intake system and it doesn't _seem_ to leak as far as I can tell, although the duster head I was using makes a lot of noise so I can't tell for sure yet. Gonna do the pressure cap tester soon. Oh, the intercooler's mounted forward of the rad, liberal use of wire ties here. Seems secure enough for now. I think there's a turbobricks smiley I'm supposed to put here but I can't find it.

As for the pcv, I'm running a male-male plastic piece in the end of the old big hose that used to go to the intake piping, and a length of radiator hose over to the intake between the amm and the turbo. Uh I lurked around, didn't ask, but I didn't see any consensus on whether the small vacuum line from the pcv/flametrap (that's right, right?) to the mani should be connected. I'm running it, I haven't had any problems yet. It seemed to me that the big hose would prevent too much boost pressure from entering the pcv anyway. Are there any opinions on this now? I'm not blowing oil anywhere that I can tell but I haven't run very long.

It's a water jacket turbo so I just took the coolant hoses (they're all branch-y) and the hard steel pipes near the turbo itself. A little chopping and hacking but they fit.

Oil feed: a pipe barb fitting, a straight, screwed into the oil gallery port. EFI hose from there to the turbo. At the turbo I've got. . .god I can't remember what, I did this part about two years ago before college. Anyway long story short there's a bolt with a hole down the center. I MAY have drilled a bolt, I honestly can't remember right now. In any case I hacksawed a brass barb fitting and silver soldered that on the top of the bolt head. The efi hose just slips onto there. Seems really secure and it's cheap enough. (ps for you genuine tb-ers out there, I'm looking at YOU with the jbweld in your hand, I did this with almost nothing on the roof of a building in south dakota in the winter. So it's not hard. I'll post here first if it breaks.)

Oil drain - the original flange and a bit of the original pipe, welded to a steel 10an fitting. Then a $30 braided stainless (teflon-lined, I guess) weatherhead hose from a hydraulics supply. Then my fitting for the bottom end is a bent section of electrical conduit, welded to another 10an fitting at the top end and a flange I made up (that looks pretty much like the stock flange at the turbo end). I dropped the oil pan, drilled a big hole and two small holes on either side. Inside the pan I welded nuts to bolt the flange to. Probably a better way to do this but I can drop the whole oil drain thing from the outside and redo it (which I've done a LOT) without messing with the pan. Anyway I'm new at this. Cut a gasket for between the flange and the oil pan, put in some gasket sealant, non-hardening. It may leak.

Hmm I think that's all the useful information. Pulled the j/y downpipe, welded it up to my old cat, seems to work well. We'll see when I get this thing re-registered and inspected.

NOW HERE'S MY REAL QUESTION! It's NOT running right yet. There's this strange 'choking' on acceleration. It's worse under load. It almost doesn't happen in neutral but it still does, and it's worst when I increase the throttle fast. If I come on slowly I can bring it all the way up to the rev limiter (at least in neutral, I haven't taken it on the road yet). But when I hit it hard, as soon as boost hits (I think, according to the barely-functional jy boost guage - first thing on my shopping list) it kinda chokes and loses power. BUT if I hold the throttle down, it'll kinda work through it in a bit and come up to boost and full rpm. So it's not a really bad noise, like I assume knocking would be, but it definitely impedes driveability. . .I don't think it would 'work through' on it's own, I can only accelerate slower if the car is in gear. Is this just normal in the bare bones +t setup? This is LH 2.2 of course, and it's ALL stock injectors, computer, everything. The only thing non-stock is I replaced the fuel pumps with an intank walbro (which is workin great.) Does anyone have any idea what this is? It seems odd, like I should be able to get better accel from what isaac is sayin. Thanks in advance! ps the timing is at 14* btdc atm. I haven't messed with the wastegate at all, should be completely factory psi.

edit: searching more now, I assume this is a fuel supply issue? So I should check my fpr (I haven't). . .what else? I'm _pretty_ sure that in-tank pump is working fine, and I replaced all the hoses back there when I did it. Also someone mentioned spark blowout but that doesn't seem likely?

Also, Things I Thought The Turbo Caused that it Really Didn't:
1. high idle after warm-up: nope, it was running lean because the 02 sensor was broked. Replaced it with a spare used 5-wire (is that a wideband?!) from my bro's jetta, works great.
2. Rally car-like popping and banging in the exhaust on decel (it's on just the downpipe at the moment, sounds AWESOME): nope that was just my TPS unplugged, found that one on here searching. Thanks whoever it was that said that. Sounded really bad on the turbo.
3. Car engulfed in flames: nope that was just the driver being a tool

Last edited by jkior; 07-27-2008 at 10:34 PM..
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Old 07-27-2008, 10:52 PM   #55
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um....i think you have the hoses wrong on the intake....i might have read it wrong..but the crankcase vent needs to be BEFORE the turbo... if you do it wrong you are just pressurizing the crankcase...which is bad.

So you are or are not running the idle air control?

you should post some pictures up. i think it would help.
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Old 07-28-2008, 07:30 AM   #56
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5 wire. that one shoudl be a 3 wire 02 in yoru volvo.

if you want you can swing ti to darmtouth i'll take a look at it for you.
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Old 07-28-2008, 07:53 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by 24DinCT View Post
One quick question...I've seen people use this end of the oil galley to feed oil to their turbos. The factory tensioner bracket for the alternator bolts into that hole right below where people are sourcing for their oil feed and it seems kinda a tight squeeze. So, my question is this...Does/Has anyone had any issues with the alternator bracket hitting the fitting coming out of the oil galley. For example when you go to change alternator belts.

Is there a alternator bracket from another model that I might need or a modification to the stock bracket if any?
In that picture, it does appear like a tight squeeze. IF you stay with the stock belt, you may need to relieve the alternator adjusting bolt a tiny bit. In lieu of doing that, you can go to slightly longer alternator belts, such as the duralast 15370 belt from Autozone, which work perfectly with absolutely no modifications.

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Old 07-28-2008, 09:03 AM   #58
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Yey, now I can build +t myself. Just waiting for parts...
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Old 07-28-2008, 04:18 PM   #59
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josepilove - nah I've got the pcv hose definitely hooked in pre-turbo, post-amm. I am running the idle air valve, the stock intake pipe had a port for it.

944ti - thanks for the offer, I don't really want to drive this thing around since atm it's not registered unfortunately. I've read a bit about the five-wires though (I should have done that first I realize now) and they work completely differently. Dang. I'll get that thing outta there, I'm a little nervous about what it's gonna do to my comp. Gotta get a new 02 but it'll be a week or two I'm afraid.
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Old 08-01-2008, 07:25 PM   #60
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Ok here's some pics.

Overall view:


The intake mani end, you can see. . .not much I guess, but the idle valve is hooked up, and I've got the pcv hose spliced here:


The turbo:


and the oil drain, that's 10an even though it looks super small here:


I'm not sure that there's anything here that will help solve my problem unfortunately. As soon as I get the cash I'm gonna get a real 02 sensor, I don't trust this one at all. Ummm other than that I don't really know what to check next. Any thoughts? It seems to behave completely normally except under hard accel, when it sort of makes this fluttering noise and it's almost like it bogs down. . .but it's not a slow-rpm kind of bogging, it's like it just can't pick up the rpms. If I just hold full throttle with the car out of gear it hits this spot but will pull through and come up to full rpm after a few seconds. Am I correct in thinking that sounds like a fuel supply problem?

mike

edit: mm I think I'll go start my own thread for this one, sorry guys
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Old 08-08-2008, 11:40 PM   #61
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Please tell me that long hose is for the pcv, and that its pre turbo, post amm? and that the hose going to the cold side pipe is for the idle air control valve.
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Old 08-09-2008, 12:03 AM   #62
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Here is mine. Just an example. Excuse the body panels that are missing...









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Old 08-10-2008, 02:30 PM   #63
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After reading this article, it makes me want to do this to the 90 244 dl I just bought. I have all the turbo parts (exhust mani, garret t3/t4, intercooler +piping, water lines, and oil lines, +their fittings) i need from my 84 244tic, so this looks like something i can do with my 90. I plan on running on 5-6lbs of boost, the motor does have 2xx,xxx on the clock, but has been well taken care of.

Questions for this project of mine ( just like this one lol )
You say you can use the stock N/A injectors, resistors, ecu, and icu, but how well does the N/A computer compensate for the turbo, will this project make my car run like a stumbling idled fool, or will the N/A do okay untill I get the brains from a 740? Also how much is this going to kill my mpg is another thing? Im just worried about how well the N/A computers will do with the turbo, as im looking to keep this as my DD just a bit under the under DD, thanks guys!

don't use stock injectors. that's a bad idea coupled with bad mpg.

since your car is a 90 you'll have lh 2.4, which for +t car's is about the easiest it gets. go grab turbo and ignition computer from a lh2.4 turbo car and you're set to go.

as for injectors you need the resistor pack,and some green top injectors, which needs to be spliced into one wire (super super easy). on my lh 2.2 car I actually spliced in the resistor pack, and put in my injectors and turbo computer even before my car was turbo. drove it around without a turbo for about 4 months no problemo. then put the turbo on...everything worked, and still works like a charm four years later almost, and 50k later on the whole turbo setup.

so for fueling that's all you have to do . after that go and boost the hell out of your engine.
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Old 08-10-2008, 02:32 PM   #64
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Here is mine. Just an example. Excuse the body panels that are missing...









that's one clean setup. nicely done.
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Old 08-10-2008, 02:40 PM   #65
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Thanks dude. To everyone else about to do a +t. PLEASE degrease your engine before tearing into anything and replace all the gaskets and seals! and take your time don't rush anything! If you don't have a part wait for it to come in. If you don't end up doing any of this then you'll probably have an unreliable +t like I did the first time around I did it.
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:07 PM   #66
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what happened here...no finishy???
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Old 02-22-2009, 07:37 PM   #67
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don't use stock injectors. that's a bad idea coupled with bad mpg.

since your car is a 90 you'll have lh 2.4, which for +t car's is about the easiest it gets. go grab turbo and ignition computer from a lh2.4 turbo car and you're set to go.

as for injectors you need the resistor pack,and some green top injectors, which needs to be spliced into one wire (super super easy). on my lh 2.2 car I actually spliced in the resistor pack, and put in my injectors and turbo computer even before my car was turbo. drove it around without a turbo for about 4 months no problemo. then put the turbo on...everything worked, and still works like a charm four years later almost, and 50k later on the whole turbo setup.

so for fueling that's all you have to do . after that go and boost the hell out of your engine.
I hear 850 turbo Injectors are high impemdness and are just a drop in set up for my plan, is this true? I still haven't tried the setup yet due to it being cold as hell!
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Old 02-22-2009, 11:04 PM   #68
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I hear 850 turbo Injectors are high impemdness and are just a drop in set up for my plan, is this true? I still haven't tried the setup yet due to it being cold as hell!
Yes they will work well... I plan to go this route with my +T.
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Old 02-22-2009, 11:38 PM   #69
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Yes they will work well... I plan to go this route with my +T.
i have my 850 injectors in my room when i +T i want to make sure im not running to much boost or not enough.

How much should i boost with a 15g?
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:35 AM   #70
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just go 1bar and lay into it, no downshifts or hard mid range rpm punches on the throttle for a few days.. ..
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Old 02-23-2009, 08:03 PM   #71
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Whats the most mileage on the motor, anyone has done this mod with; Mine has like some where short of 300,000 no joke lol; It's just had to find another b230 here in OK to build
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Old 03-21-2009, 01:46 PM   #72
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now see if you can beat our time of 10 hours start to finish
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Old 03-22-2009, 06:54 PM   #73
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Whats the most mileage on the motor, anyone has done this mod with; Mine has like some where short of 300,000 no joke lol; It's just had to find another b230 here in OK to build
Go for it and see what happens. If it doesn't knock or tick horribly, (not the B230 tick we're all used to) then it should have as good of a chance as any other stock B230.
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:13 PM   #74
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I did mine like this at 520k km, or 350k miles. i STRONGLY recommend doing the turbo ezk/ecu and injectors/fpr. the na stuff just does not cut it (Ie, pedaling the throttle in every gear so it dosent lean out) I have a AFR gauge, while my setup was like this. you really have to baby it.
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Old 03-25-2009, 12:26 PM   #75
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Ecu and ezk are worth it for sure, but if you are in a pinch you can leave n/a stuff in and run really really low boost.
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