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Old 02-21-2011, 02:13 PM   #1
Josepilove
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Default Anyone gotten their cam journals line bored?

I am ashamed of what i have to say here... I got a head for free, and before taking it to get fairly extensively machined, i failed to check if the caps i got it were the right ones...they weren't.

Anyways, the machine shop quoted $185 to line-bore, but said it might be an easy job because of the cam location.

anyone have the job done and what were you charged?

thanks!
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:50 PM   #2
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i just called a local shop about having an audi head done. I was quoted $150 for the bore + she estimated $65 for the bearing inserts.
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:03 PM   #3
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is the cam positioned as high in the head as a 530? i don't know much about the process, but i was told the higher up, the easier/quicker/cheaper the job.
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:17 PM   #4
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the cam bore is in the same position. audi/VW uses the same style bucket lifter as Volvo.
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:25 PM   #5
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just wondering. but why do you feel this needs to be done?
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:26 PM   #6
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coz the cam doesnt turn with the current caps :(
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:28 PM   #7
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Are the caps just out of order? Head warped?
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:30 PM   #8
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no. the original caps are gone... these went to a different head...i was hoping they would fit.

also head the head checked out at the shop, its in great shape.
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:17 PM   #9
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I'd find another head. It would be quite a bit cheaper...
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:35 PM   #10
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yea...i am between a rock and a hard place here because i already got big valves in it, a nice porting job and a beautiful deck.
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:43 PM   #11
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Shop around for quotes, but it sounds like you're going to be spending a bit more to make this head right.
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:18 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 245gti View Post
I'd find another head. It would be quite a bit cheaper...
This.

Another thing to consider:
When align-boring (or honing) mains, or resizing big ends of rods, you have more to work with. Those caps are tiny, and made of weaker metal. You remove metal from the seating surfaces to make them elliptical, then hone out the hole, removing metal from the bridge area, and they will be weaker.
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:45 AM   #13
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i read in an older thread another way is to get caps from a head with aprox the same mileage, are all of them grabbing or just one.

no idea if that'll work, or if it'll cause more problems, but i would at least try it because i'm cheap
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Old 02-22-2011, 01:25 PM   #14
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Yeah I'd go to the wreaking yard and grab a few sets of them and take them home and put them on with a cam and some oil and see how easy the cam then turns. Usually what makes the cam not turn is the head has gotten hot and warps so the top is warped also, but then someone mabey had the head resurfaced so it's then flat, but now the top cam journals are off and bind the cam so check that. This is the reason volvo says if you warp your head don't get it surfaced, get it straightened. I've had that done before. Basically they heat it up and make it straight again.

I've got a couple extra sets of cam caps I could send you for $20.
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Old 02-22-2011, 04:37 PM   #15
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Yeah I'd go to the wreaking yard and grab a few sets of them and take them home and put them on with a cam and some oil and see how easy the cam then turns.
That would make those heads worthless, no?
I just junked some heads if anyone wants the caps.
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:02 PM   #16
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That would make those heads worthless, no?
That would be my thought on it as well. The Volvo OHC heads don't use cam bearings, the machined surface acts as such. Mix-n-matching the cam caps [without having it align-honed after] sounds like a recipe for shortened cam/head life, potentially even shortened engine life if it goes catastrophic and dumps metal into the crankcase or drops a valve.

Saw a 22RE do that once; came into the shop for a no-start diag. The owner did his own head job ~500 miles prior, mismatched cam caps and that resulted in it eating the cam, seizing it to the head and snapping the cam at 3 caps. Funny part was, pop off the oil filler cap and look inside, the front 1/3 of the cam was spinning with the engine as we turned it over. Wasn't until we pulled the valve cover that it was apparent what happened.
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:05 PM   #17
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Get more caps and some plastigauge. Swap caps around until you get the right clearance. Clean and smooth the transition from head to cap. Win.
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badvlvo View Post
Get more caps and some plastigauge. Swap caps around until you get the right clearance. Clean and smooth the transition from head to cap. Win.
i think i might try this out... anyone know what the clearance should be?
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:06 PM   #19
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.0012-.0028 in
+1 on the plastigauge and cap party, great idea.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:58 PM   #20
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awesome.
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Get more caps and some plastigauge. Swap caps around until you get the right clearance. Clean and smooth the transition from head to cap. Win.
Yeah but just because each hole measures the right clearance, it does not mean that they all line up perfectly. Unless you plastigauged it from a few sides maybe. I dunno, hey it might work.

I've done that before, used the wrong caps on a head. I think it was while I was building my first engine, assembled everything and the cam would NOT turn by hand (with wrench), really had me puzzled for a while. I believe that I eventually found the right caps that belong to that head, and it magically worked again!

So as I see it, you can only use the correct caps from that head, in the right order. OR, get it align bored. Trying to mix and match caps until "it works" sounds like a headache waiting to happen. Since it sounds like you've already dumped money into it for the big valves, then if an align bore is cheaper than having that same work done to another head, get it align bored.

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