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Finally, she is mine: 1966 Volvo 122s

powermanaf said:
I sent fige a PM about buying his alternator bracket, but haven't got a response. I'd like to spend as little money as possible before I get it running and driving so I can get a better idea of where my money should go first. I have a brand new generator sitting in the trunk so I'd like to try that out first. I need to go to a parts store today and buy a bigger socket for the nut on the pulley.
Click to expand...

Before you bloody those other three knuckles make sure the "new" generator mounts up exactly the same as the near-destroyed one including pulley alignment and angle.

You can struggle or you can re-mount the old generator in the car and follow these instructions...
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I was able to get the stuck fan nut off without the holding tool using a rather unconventional means. Soak the nut overnight with penetrate then heat with a torch if available. I used a plastic coated dog tie out cable to do it. First, since I was replacing the fan belt anyway, I cut the old one off to get it out of the way. Next I looped the dog leash around the AC bracket compressor was removed at the time, then looped it around the fan pulley and turned the pulley until the cable wrapped over itself and began to pull tight. Next I used a very long and large ratcheting breaker bar to take up the cable slack until the pulley would not turn any more. Then kept applying gradual force to the wrench, watching the cable and alternator mount to make sure nothing was bending. After a bit, the nut broke loose, and there you have it.
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If the dog won't share his vinyl-coated steel cable any very strong section of rope will work.

If re-mounting the old generator seems like too much work just rope-tie two 2X4 studs together (faces facing) about 3 feet from one end then use the other ends as giant pliers.

Any local auto alternator shop will remove the nut for free...

You: "The last four alternator shops couldn't get this nut off and they all said I'd be wasting my time coming here..."

Shop: "Gimme that thing...".

Steering wheel removal...

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?115471-Steering-wheel-and-dash

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=750608&show_all=1

As you see, your model Volvo is fully supported on the www.

BTW, if not already consider taking the time to create a folder on your non-phone computer setup then fill it (over time) with saved pics, pdfs, etc. from the www.

This allows you to search quickly for immediate details such as generator (dynamo) electrical test values on pdf Page 4 of this...

http://volvo1800pictures.com/docume...stem_p1800/part_3_electrical_system_p1800.pdf

Also let us know any parts you need so we can offer sources.

I always enjoyed wrenching on old Volvos rather than clicking around on the www but that may be due to the fact that my wrenching daze were before the discovery of top soil.

George Dill
 
Thanks again George! I finally got around to saving all of those manuals from http://www.volvoamazonpictures.se/ so I will take the time to read them thoroughly. The only thing really holding me back a this point is lack of tools to do the job. I plan on geting a hold of some bigger sized sockets today so I can attack the generator pulley and the steering wheel. I'm also going to put in the battery from my 245 and try and start it up to see what happens.
 
powermanaf said:
Success!


<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6792988663_edf4cceb34_z.jpg">
Click to expand...

Nice work - this would be a good time to inspect the bush(es) at the steering column break-away junction under the hood. With the steering wheel removed replacement of those rubber bush(es) is made much easier. The parts are super cheap. Your car may have just one large round rubber bush or two small bushes.

Here is a great way to waste your time on the www:

Grab this swedespeed forums-only google advance search...

http://www.google.com/search?q=Amaz...m=10&lr=lang_en&ft=i&cr=countryUS&safe=active

...then click on the time parameters to cull the hits. You can modify the search to include an "exact phrase" which will find a hit where some old guy says "...avoid the urge to start the car before...".

George Dill
 
That reminds me, my steering wheel has been crooked on my PV for about 6 years now. Just need to pull it off and reclock it. It's one of those little things I never get around to doing.
 
I went out and bought the socket to get the bolt off, thinking that would be the hard part. It looked like someone had taken it off before because the locking washer was already bent out. The nut came off no problem. I then sat there for a good 15 minutes pounding away at the back of the steering wheel (with the nut on loosely) before it came off. My neighbors were staring at me like I was crazy.
 
I've generally had good luck just grabbing it by the rim, and pulling, and rocking it back and forth some.
 
powermanaf said:
This is confusing to me, but I must know what I should avoid doing before starting the car!
Click to expand...

"...just gotta hear it run..." does not apply to you as your enthusiasm and positive attitude overrides any need for caution.

Before you try to start the car be sure all loose-end wires are secure so no electrical shorts can destroy the ignition system. When you hook up a freshly-charged battery turn the key to "ON" and confirm that the coil is getting power. If the engine just cranks and makes no effort to start test each spark plug for spark. If gas is getting to the carb float bowls and the ignition system is ok the car should at least sputter. If it does start and run without the fan belt(s) mounted shut down before the engine overheats.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYRokceXv8A

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wy1QbhWehuo

George Dill
 
@TS:

I totally envy your new 122S dude... I used to own one too:
Volvo_P130_68_o_1434_1.jpg


Had to sell it cuz i needed to travel too much, didn't work out with 12:1 CR and 150+ hp. The new owner (greedy big gold chain wearing type of guy) totalled it 3 months after he got it from me..

NEVER sell that 122S, you will regret it;-).
 
I feel like I haven't touched this car in weeks. It's amazing how fast time just goes by when you work every day.

Anyways, I put a fresh battery in last night to see if she'd fire up and ended up discovering some more problems. There is something weird going on with the wiring, but that's no surprise since it looks like every wire has been changed in some way. It DOES start up though, but only runs for a few seconds, and at a very low RPM. I am going to buy some tools this weekend to test compression, check the timing, check valve clearance, all that good stuff.

I don't want to update this thread anymore until I actually do something, it's getting to be a pretty boring thread...
 
powermanaf said:
Oh, I also have no idea how the hell to get that nut off of the pulley that's on the generator. How am I suppose to stop it from spinning? I bent every fin on the pulley trying to jam a screwdriver in there to stop it from spinning. Is there anywhere I can buy a new pulley?
Click to expand...

Don't use a screwdriver, pry bar or anything else like that.

Use an impact and the proper socket, hold the pulley in your hand and squeeze the trigger. It will come right off.
 
badvlvo said:
Don't use a screwdriver, pry bar or anything else like that.

Use an impact and the proper socket, hold the pulley in your hand and squeeze the trigger. It will come right off.
Click to expand...

I ended up taking it to a shop and they popped it off for me. I did bend all of the fins on the pulley though, oh well.
 
A quick little update. I got the new generator installed, just need to get a screw set to connect the wire ends to the regulator. I also pulled out the under-dash unit for the AC, it was taking up too much room and bothering me. I plan to pull the rest of the AC guts next time around. I shocked myself twice today with this car. Once when I was pulling an air filter off, I touched the wrench to a wire end and I forgot to disconnect the battery. Sparks all around the carbs, it was great. Then I noticed a wire hanging from the back of the ignition that looked like it had a button on one end. I tried sticking my key through the plastic sleeve to push it in, while the key was in the ignition, and sparks flew. I also burned my fingers pretty good on that one. I really shouldn't be working on a car when the battery is connected.

The good news is that IT DOES RUN. I got it to play nice today and idle for awhile. I threw on the belt for the fan and topped off the radiator with water so it didn't overheat. The idle screws were all the way out so that's why it was idling like poop the last time I tried to run it. And the choke cables weren't engaging so I fixed that. It feels like the old gas has gummed up something because when you get on the throttle it revs up to a certain point then wants to crap out. It also sounded like it was backfiring into the air filters a few times when I would floor it.

Time to read up on these carbs and then tear them apart.
 
powermanaf said:
Time to read up on these carbs and then tear them apart.
Click to expand...

Before you do that.... check the timing, clean/replace plugs, cap, points, and rotor. While it is possible the carbs are buggered it's best not to open up that can of worms until deemed necessary. As the old saying goes: 99% or carburetor problems aren't carburetor problems.

Also, adjust the valves!

If you don't have a timing gun, you can adjust the timing by ear. After tuning the ignition and adjusting the valves do as follows:

With the engine idling as best as possible...

Losen the nut holding the distributor in place just a bit

Carefully grasp the distributer in your hand and SLOWLY rotate it clockwise or counterclockwise. Whichever way improves the idle is the way to go.

Keep rotating it until it begins to ping ever so slightly, then rotate it back a degree or two and lock it in place.

Done. Good enough for now.

Now, the carbs: It is likely that there is gummed up gas/varnish in the float bowls. Before pulling the carbs, remove the float bowls and clean/inspect the bowl, float, and fuel passages. Replace the float bowl gasket when putting it back together. Start 'er up and check for leaks. This may take care of most of the running issues you're having. Just remember, always start with the simplest solution first!

Did you check the oil in the dashpots? If its low or there isn't any, it can cause weird idling, backfiring, etc. Unscrew the cap on top of the dashpots. Pull out the dampener and cap and look inside the dashpot. There should be oil in there up to the lifting ring on the inside, about 3/4" from the top. There may not be any in there at all. There is a whole lot of debate over what oil to use in there (ATF, SU oil, motor oil) I have two cars with SU's, and have had many more and I always use castrol 20w-50 oil in the dashpots. It's nearly the exact consistency as the expensive SU oil. In my opinion, ATF is too thin.

Oh, and change your fuel filters!

Good Luck! :rockon:
 
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Carb tuning

The problem with SU HS6 are that they are prone to throttle shaft wear (which causes air leaks and uneven running). At this point, any original SUs would have shaft wear (you can check the throttle shaft play by just wiggling the throttle shaft on the linkage side of the carbs). They are simple and great carbs to use.

You can have them rebuilt (about $500), or many people replace them with crappy downdraft Webers. I hear you can install o-rings (probably something that can take the gas vapors) at the end of the SU shafts to reduce the air leaks. My newest 122 had very worn set of HS6s on it (I don't think they can be rebuilt- uneven run, somtimes it had power, other times, no power), and I found a rebuilt set of HIF6s on eBay for $195. The car now run like new, starts up on the coldest day with very little choke.

Here is a good youtube video describing how SU work:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=7GRAcqDySog&NR=1

This will give you an idea how to tune a set (this is for a set of HIFs, but it's basically the same as the HS6s):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASeMfXfjNpw

This looks like a cheap way to sync up the carbs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QSA2gvnit0

Paul

Here's a good way of reusing the one-time air filters (air filters are pretty expensive):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ypQCxHueyQ

I did mine with $8 filters each, and used some "Volvo" logo plates:

VolvoAirFilters.jpg
 
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AC unit

Those AC units go for a pretty penny.

I had one that came with my first 122 (which I paid $600 for), and got $400 for the unit. The car also came with a working '65 Blaupunkt radio, which easily sell for $300+ (the radio is in my current 122, and sounds great for a 45 year old radio). So the car it self was gravy. So don't trash the AC unit even if it's inthe rough condition.

Blaupunkt.jpg


Paul
 
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My 122 is going swedish

I'm replacing my english interior pieces with swedish ones:

SwitchSwedish.jpg


I found a 57 swedish instrument cluster that I'm going to calibrate to read in MPH, even tho it says KPH (it's a little different than the later ones):

57-58122instrument.jpg


Also, the heater control label are reproduced too:

heater-control-plate-english.jpeg


heater-control-plate-swedish.jpeg
 
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