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Uncleknucklez 242 road ripper

now I have the 15G and 16T, anyone have any input on which I should choose and why?


Duder said:
15G and 16T are both TD04HL, so the turbine wheels should be the same, and turbine housings should swap between them. 15G compressor efficiency starts to fall off pretty quickly if you go higher than 2.0 pressure ratio, so maybe 12-13 psi as measured at the intake manifold. Looks like the 16T maintains its peak efficiency up to around PR 2.6, or over 20 psi. They both have about the same flow range. So if you're looking to run anything more than 12 or 13 psi gage pressure then the 16T should perform better.

Great to see a well-informed, thorough answer, delivered simply and without attitude.
 
Quick update:

Car has been burried in my garage for the past few weeks

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As Davis/IPD season quickly approaches, I decided now is the time to refurb the Weds Bavaria fins on the car.

While I had the car in the air I decided to install the ugly dampener on my single piece driveshaft (to alleviate some of the trans groins) that I had been sitting on for a few months. It broke within minutes of me trying to install it, so another new dampener is on it's way.

I did rip an Elevenses in the parking lot behind my shop, Modded G80 doing it's job like a champ so far.

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One of my guys snapped this at lunch a few weeks back.

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Plans are as follows for car show season:

1) refurb wheels
2) install dampener on driveshaft with new 1310 U joint
3) Finish wiring my R134 A/C install before it gets too hot
4) Install the 16T and finally have a 3" DP on the car

I will update soon with more pics of the action.
 
I'm definitely curious if that helps yours out like it did mine.

Hey, you didn't move did you? Saw someone kinda looked like you, moved into our hood, rolls in an 855T, also has a V70XC parked out front, can't see what's in the garage or side yard.
 
I'm definitely curious if that helps yours out like it did mine.

Hey, you didn't move did you? Saw someone kinda looked like you, moved into our hood, rolls in an 855T, also has a V70XC parked out front, can't see what's in the garage or side yard.

I am hopeful, we did not move, Still in Natomas.

Did you get the damper new? I've had so many transmission leaks that I'm afraid to use any junkyard parts.

Damper is BNIB NOS near as I can tell, both the box and damper are stamped "Ford" and "Spicer" and it fits like a glove.

There is more space at the end of the trans output than I recall, I thought I was going to have to massage the tunnel a bit, but so far so good.
 
This weekend I cut, polished, and waxed the car, turned out better than I expected.

I used Chemical Guys V36 with a wool pad on a grinder for the cut, CG V38 on a foam pad on a DA, and then Hand wax with Meguiars Carnauba wax. Someday I will buy a better wax, I just hate not using what I already have!

Overall I am pretty pleased with results, and am one step closer to being Davis ready!

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My helper washing "his" car, he laid claim to it a while back
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I am happy to also report that the driveshaft dampener has cut down on my grumblies substantially, and I recommend anyone with a T5 transmission to add one.
 
Maybe you can drive onto a sidewalk or something in Davis so I can look at that damper? I was looking at my slip yoke, and I have about 1/2" around the ujoint. Thinking it might be too tight for that damper. But, if it works that well, I may just cut more of the tunnel. Can't stand my car as-is!
 
Maybe you can drive onto a sidewalk or something in Davis so I can look at that damper? I was looking at my slip yoke, and I have about 1/2" around the ujoint. Thinking it might be too tight for that damper. But, if it works that well, I may just cut more of the tunnel. Can't stand my car as-is!

Gladly man, I'll even bring a jack so we can peer underneath it!
 
This weekend I cut, polished, and waxed the car, turned out better than I expected.

I used Chemical Guys V36 with a wool pad on a grinder for the cut, CG V38 on a foam pad on a DA, and then Hand wax with Meguiars Carnauba wax. Someday I will buy a better wax, I just hate not using what I already have!

Looking quite nice. I'm working on my old '75 245 and the process I've used on past Volvos has been IronX -> clay bar -> Meguiar's ultimate compound w/ DA -> Meguiar's ultimate polish w/ DA -> hand apply carnauba wax. Hope I can get it all done in time for the show...

Are you using a full-size DA? I have the little ~4" style that you chuck up into a drill. It doesn't cut as aggressively but makes it harder to burn through.
 
Looking quite nice. I'm working on my old '75 245 and the process I've used on past Volvos has been IronX -> clay bar -> Meguiar's ultimate compound w/ DA -> Meguiar's ultimate polish w/ DA -> hand apply carnauba wax. Hope I can get it all done in time for the show...

Are you using a full-size DA? I have the little ~4" style that you chuck up into a drill. It doesn't cut as aggressively but makes it harder to burn through.

I currently use a Porter Cable DA 7424XP, but I also have a Harbor freight unit that works really well, and those ones can be had for little money. I use the 6" pads from HF and throw them out after each use pretty much.

Your process is a good one, and that IronX is something I have been looking into, I used to work for a detail department at a Ford dealership, and we used what we called "Acid" (I never knew what it was, smelled awful though) to remove rust and water spots, the IronX seems like that same step to me.
 
I currently use a Porter Cable DA 7424XP, but I also have a Harbor freight unit that works really well, and those ones can be had for little money. I use the 6" pads from HF and throw them out after each use pretty much.

Your process is a good one, and that IronX is something I have been looking into, I used to work for a detail department at a Ford dealership, and we used what we called "Acid" (I never knew what it was, smelled awful though) to remove rust and water spots, the IronX seems like that same step to me.

Cool. Yeah the IronX smells really terrible. It's quite pungent, and seems acidic although they claim it's pH-neutral. Apparently it's ammonium thioglycolate which is also used for hair perms and removing rust stains from marble. It sure does a good job of dissolving crap lodged in the paint. There were some rust stains on my roof from an old homemade rack, and this took 'em right off. Makes clay barring go much quicker too.
 
Looks absolutely fantastic! Love that color combo.

Thanks a ton!

Cool. Yeah the IronX smells really terrible. It's quite pungent, and seems acidic although they claim it's pH-neutral. Apparently it's ammonium thioglycolate which is also used for hair perms and removing rust stains from marble. It sure does a good job of dissolving crap lodged in the paint. There were some rust stains on my roof from an old homemade rack, and this took 'em right off. Makes clay barring go much quicker too.

That sounds exactly like the same stuff, takes rust off of paint like nobodies business. I'll grab a bottle to try out.

Cheers from another green 242 guy!

Thanks for a good thread!

Thanks for the kind words, us green guys gotta stick together and rise up against all the beige (although I want a beige 4 wagon pretty bad now)
 
Update:

Took a quick trip to my closest PnP this weekend, scored this single round grill setup for $38 out the door. Best part is the H4 bulbs that are now on the car. Bye bye sealed beams!

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Also, the 16T turbo is finally in, took some doing, but I also fabricated a 3" DP to match the rest of the exhaust I had previously built. She's a runner now. the 16T is waaaay different than the 13C, and feels more linear even at the same boost levels. It is a touch laggier, but that could be a combination of questionable WGA tension and my cheap MBC.

Stock 940 DP (chopped to fit a 240) vs 3" boomer
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Room for activities
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Snug as a bug 16T
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13C, 15G, 16T
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Completed DP
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Will probably add a high flow cat in here, this thing stinks now....
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A little better tuck job than the first time
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Last but not least, I finally have a speedo that does something, it doesn't read MPH, but the needle moves :lol: It seems like there is interference of some form, and the speedo moves in relation to throttle position? Like the more the throttle is pressed, the higher the speed reads up to 20MPH, so that's fun :roll:

Always something.... Until next time, thanks for checking in!
 
Pic's are blocked at work, sounds like some good progress though!

You can always try a helper spring on the WG for short-term, see how that helps for spool before spending money on a new actuator, but those 15g/16t actuators are pretty weak ont eh return side to keep the gate closed.
 
Pic's are blocked at work, sounds like some good progress though!

You can always try a helper spring on the WG for short-term, see how that helps for spool before spending money on a new actuator, but those 15g/16t actuators are pretty weak ont eh return side to keep the gate closed.

Eh, I use Imgur for hosting, so I can imagine it would be flagged by some work places. Imagine my car with a bigger turbo and 3" DP :-P

That's actually a really good idea, I will try the spring on the WGA, currently it is the 13c unit, I pulled all the rods and picked the stiffest, super scientific.
 
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