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I had one machined out to fit over the stgIII turbine wheel of my SC50 hybrid, and am being told it may be a choke point in my system.
Who is making the most power with a Cossie .48 turbine housing?
I cannot begin to understand why a person world find removing 3 easy access bolts such a pain that they would want to weld a V band clamp on.
Is 3 bolts so time consuming?
Overall, it's much easier to make a "normal" 3" downpipe that just has a regular old 3" v-band on it. Otherwise you need to weld a transition piece on and get a stupid flared end put on, or recycle the one from your old fleabitten exhaust system, blah blah blah.
Yeah, the 15- tops 20 minutes it took when i fabbed the last 3-4 downpipes and flared the ends by hand is awfully difficult. Much easier to spend a lot of dough, weld onto cast iron that's been caked in rust and carbon..
Silly me.
Way easier to buy a vband assembly, weld one side onto the housing (cuz it takes all of 20 minute's to grind it flat and weld a non-retarded flange on), and have your exhaust be 3" right from the get go.
Golly, the Cossie exhaust register and wide bolt circle IS set up for a 3' direct to turbo...
Your reference to "transition stub" up there, and the above pretty much confirms you've never held a Cossie turbine housing in your hands
If I am building an exhaust/turbo setup for someone, I'll always use a 3"v-band where possible. Clean simple and standard.
Well for the stuff you're doing...
The question was "Cossie turbine housing HP"
Especially if you use a quick release v-band clamp, you can literally remove it in 30 seconds. And it's all stainless and it stays cool enough you can use a nylock instead of the stovers you need to use on a conical 3 bolt setup. So if it stays on for a year or more it is less prone to fight you/break studs off in the housing, etc etc.
Ironic that you talk of the ease of the silly V band thing---and yet the accessibility of the turbo mounting bolts on the buncha-snakes style manifolds you like with turbo down seems not to be done with the same concern for speedy removal
With a stage 3 turbine wheel, you might squeak 400whp out of a 0.48. It won't be happy about it though. 300-350 is where it's be happiest like Johnzo says.
I said nothing of a silly "Stage 3' turbine wheel. By not saying---and as the question was about "a Cossie turbine housing" I implied I was referring to Turbine wheel 451311-0014 which is what comes in Volvo turbo B21, B23, B230, B204, Ford CVH 1.6T, Ford YBB Cosworth, Ford YBG Cosworth, XR4Ti, Thundbird, Lancia Intergrale, Lancia 16v Delta Intergrale and a few dozen other motors....
"Mid-high 300"s was suggesting 360-390 bhp....
That's what I've seen on the dyno sheets from real engine builders, but of course what do they know?
i totaly agree! and when your changing a turbo on race day theres nothing simple about three red hot bolts!
I have a full 3" outlet on mine. It's hogged out to the full 3". I'd assume 3" right off the turbine instead of 2.65 or whatever stock was to flow more, and be less of a restriction.
I'm a big fan of it. Had one on my old car. This is going on my new car. Not sure why the hate?
That is exactly the approach I am describing.
John's a touch senile and sometimes gets upset when people bring up goshdarned new fangled thingamobs like v-banders and turbine wheels that are not the size gawd intended.
He is also quite helpful at times though so personally, I just take the good with the bad. ;-P
I cannot begin to understand why a person world find removing 3 easy access bolts such a pain that they would want to weld a V band clamp on.
Is 3 bolts so time consuming?
I cannot begin to understand why a person world find removing 3 easy access bolts such a pain that they would want to weld a V band clamp on.
Is 3 bolts so time consuming?
yes.
Studs and nuts back off, vbands don't
are you saying you have a .63 wheel in a .48 housing ?
just get the prequiite cossie housing , cost an arm and a leg mind .