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Old 06-20-2016, 01:36 PM   #426
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Originally Posted by The Full Banana View Post
Well, luckily for you they do have them in purple anodized!

Do you work with airplane parts for a living!?!
Yes, but mostly in the context of spreadsheets and emails... sigh. I would never ask the guys in the shop to help out with small projects or to borrow tools, because that would be wrong. ahem.

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no you hang up first.
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Old 06-20-2016, 01:41 PM   #427
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 06-21-2016, 11:19 AM   #428
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Sorry bud think I'm going to hang on to them as spares. (cut scene to them still sitting in my shed 20 years from now).
Hahaha, no worries. I completely understand why you'd keep them in stock. By the way, I've got a part hook-up local to me that you may be interested in. I actually bought my Amazon from him, and he has been into Volvos since the 70s.

Bummer I missed you at Mark's last night, BTW. I was at a cruise night in Wallingford.
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Old 06-21-2016, 02:56 PM   #429
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Hahaha, no worries. I completely understand why you'd keep them in stock. By the way, I've got a part hook-up local to me that you may be interested in. I actually bought my Amazon from him, and he has been into Volvos since the 70s.

Bummer I missed you at Mark's last night, BTW. I was at a cruise night in Wallingford.
I'll try to think of some stuff I need and let you know, when you got those NOS headlight buckets I was pretty jealous.

Let me know if you're going to Mark's anytime and I'll try to swing by after work. I got there at the tail end of the show last night, drowned in a sea of corvettes. Wait, how'd ya know I was there?
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:33 AM   #430
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I'll try to think of some stuff I need and let you know, when you got those NOS headlight buckets I was pretty jealous.

Let me know if you're going to Mark's anytime and I'll try to swing by after work. I got there at the tail end of the show last night, drowned in a sea of corvettes. Wait, how'd ya know I was there?
My friend Cameron posted a pic of your car on either Facebook or IG.

Drowned in a sea of Corvettes, you say? At Mark's? Stop pulling my leg!
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:45 PM   #431
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Tuning woes persist, working my way through the list of possible causes but have not found anything touch the 3-3100k headache spot. I let it run lean in that range and pulled the plugs but there's nothing really jumping out or pointing me in any specific direction.

Although, I think I made a really worthwhile change with the injectors and also think it's a worthwhile piece of information to put out for anyone running a Nathan intake with ID injectors or just no injector clips in general - you probably have an air leak around the base of your injectors. Here is a picture of where the injector sat with no clip after being forced down into the manifold by fuel pressure:



The problem is that the injector bung is slash cut into the runner, and at this height the bottom o-ring is hitting the high edge of the cut. This was preventing a good seal and causing an air leak under boost. I bought a new set of adapters that allowed me to use clips (thanks again Tom, saved me some homework on that one) and you can see how the injectors are pulled higher up into the rail now:



This holds the injector up in the bung and allows for a proper seal. I was kind of hoping I'd jump in the car and find it was overly rich at 3k now but no change in that range. The only difference I've noticed is that it's now reluctant to start and idling rough. I haven't changed the tune at all, so not sure if eliminating the leak around the injectors would affect that portion of the tables or not. Going to log it and see if Doc Howard can help me out at all.

Interesting to find that the ID adapters have some kind of insert in the top. It's almost like a diffuser, open on either side. The new adapters are just an open hole. Anyone know why ID would have something like this in the adapter?



I'm going to swap coils tonight from my Dad's ls7 and eliminate my coils as the source of an odd rpm-specific misfire. After that I'm getting thin on ideas for what's going on. I will probably end up sending the injectors out, but it's $100+probably two weeks of having the car down which is a real bummer for a hail mary pass.

Beyond that I'm kind of stuck looking at my wiring harness, though I'm hard pressed to think of a wiring issue that would be rpm specific like this. At some point, barring any welcome mechanical cause presenting itself, I'm back to square 1 and this being some kind of odd tuning issue that is just really hard to walk in. I wonder if maybe I could get a guy like Kenny actually in the car if it could be worked out in a few hours, but I just don't have the depth of knowledge for this puzzle from a tuning standpoint. I would feel a little better about the system if I could work out the 5k plus range, so maybe I'll have to sack up and start getting up top to see if it can be wrangled.

We've kicked around the idea of putting the stock intake on to see what difference it makes, thinking of changes from the year 1 setup when this first arose, which would be feasible but I have no real way to get a fuel rail on it now that I have the -6 lines. I used to have a Nathan fuel rail for a stock manifold but have sold it on, anyone want to rent one out?
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:48 PM   #432
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so nathan didn't have the injector bung tapered in the manifold to 'stop' the injector from going too far? usually there's a little bit of a step in there somewhere, but hell mine may not either. that was... 7 years ago
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:52 PM   #433
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so nathan didn't have the injector bung tapered in the manifold to 'stop' the injector from going too far? usually there's a little bit of a step in there somewhere, but hell mine may not either. that was... 7 years ago
I didn't measure anything but as an eyeball it looks like a straight shot. At any rate, there was a witness mark in the bung from where the o-ring had been riding and it came around to land right on the high side of the cut. It probably sealed under vac but blowing into it they were whistling good.

Not sure what all difference it will make but I was happy to have found it and gotten rid of it.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:24 PM   #434
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Black anodized adapters... so mature!

Glad they worked out for you--you can thank Homer for finding them.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:38 PM   #435
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Black anodized adapters... so mature!

Glad they worked out for you--you can thank Homer for finding them.
Stealth always wins.

No change with a different set of coils. I pulled the injectors to send out, might as well. ID only accepts UPS shipments which sucks from both a cost and turn time perspective. I can make it overly, on its face rich through there but no nice smooth reasonable line. Also getting a big AFR swing with constant rpm/map. Could be worse, I'll iron it out somehow.
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:10 AM   #436
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You might want to check your timing sensor and quality of the signal at that point, I have seen cars that have RPM specific issues and it was small area where the timing sensor freaks out. What pickup are you using?
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:41 AM   #437
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You might want to check your timing sensor and quality of the signal at that point, I have seen cars that have RPM specific issues and it was small area where the timing sensor freaks out. What pickup are you using?
Yes, have started thinking about this. Volvo (Bougi) VR sensor on the flywheel wired into the micro harness. I get a good rpm signal in Tuner Studio and I'm not fighting any sync loss issues or breaking up like I was when I first put it together. It's a good place to look next though.

When I first wired the car I was having trouble with sync loss. I tried adding resistors but wasn't getting satisfactory results. I ended up flipping the polarity of the wiring at the sensor (with no resistors) and never had another issue, and haven't really thought about it until I started thinking about validating the ignition side of it.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:34 AM   #438
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Have you inspected the sensor gap? You might try to run one of the DSM timing pickups. that fixed it for my friend.
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:30 AM   #439
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Have you inspected the sensor gap? You might try to run one of the DSM timing pickups. that fixed it for my friend.
Not in particular, it's all stock and undisturbed so I wouldn't expect issues (also no issues there with year 1 setup which was same configuration just different wiring).

DSM meaning the CAS thing on the aux shaft or something different.
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:05 PM   #440
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Injectors checked out. Bit of deviation on one but not enough to cause any issues.



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Old 07-11-2016, 07:48 AM   #441
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DSM meaning the CAS thing on the aux shaft or something different.
Yes,

He was using a haltech so its a little different but he had a specific RPM issue and he couldn't find any problems in the logs, he changed from the stock sensors to the DSM CAS thing and the issues went away.

I think I heard of some people using a hyundai sensor or something in place of the stock bosch flywheel sensor...
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Old 07-11-2016, 08:34 AM   #442
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Yes,

He was using a haltech so its a little different but he had a specific RPM issue and he couldn't find any problems in the logs, he changed from the stock sensors to the DSM CAS thing and the issues went away.

I think I heard of some people using a hyundai sensor or something in place of the stock bosch flywheel sensor...
Right now I don't really have anything suggesting I have an issue with the input, but it is something I'd like to try and validate as part of this exercise. Might need to find a friend with a scope.
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Old 07-12-2016, 07:01 AM   #443
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Yes,

He was using a haltech so its a little different but he had a specific RPM issue and he couldn't find any problems in the logs, he changed from the stock sensors to the DSM CAS thing and the issues went away.

I think I heard of some people using a hyundai sensor or something in place of the stock bosch flywheel sensor...
Ben -
Are you saying that there is a Hyundai sensor that has the same physical size that goes in the same place as the stock sensor? I hadn't heard that.

Someone else had suggested that Mike check the sensor gap, which is thinking along the same lines of loosing signal quality.

Might be worth checking with your custom-ish flywheel, I don't know if the OD of the wheel where the 60-2 is drilled is the same as a stock Lh2.4 wheel, though it is the same setup you had originally and did not have this problem???

With the injectors eliminated from the list, you're left with something weird with intake, or CPS, or wiring related, or, the MS box itself - I think everything else has been eliminated. It could be that we're looking at logs of what MS is sending out, but not actually seeing what the injector or coil is receiving.

You'll figure it out.
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Old 07-12-2016, 08:31 AM   #444
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There's a certain BMW sensor from an earlier 6 cyl that is plugs in place of the volvo sensor, and has a stronger magnet. I'd go hunting for that one. it's at the front of the BMW engine mounted to a trigger wheel.

If you'de like some help with tuning, that'll be fine too.
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:50 PM   #445
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Figured I'd copy Tom and do an "end of season" bump.

As is usual I spent most of the Summer and Fall just driving the car. I have about 1,800 miles on the new engine and it has worked out great. I've been running a conservative 16lbs of boost and it feels stronger than the old engine at 22.

Eeuroparts had a Fall meet, me and Eric had the two 242's there. He's getting ready to do a whiteblock swap.



Most of the work I've done on the car has been incremental improvements and minor repairs, stuff not particularly worth documenting. I did put a set of Yoshifab engine mounts in it because my poly mount was deforming and actually bending the metal plate (torque!). Yoshifab fails to mention that they send two mounts of the same height, so the passenger side ends up ~.25" shorter than stock. On my setup this leans the header even closer over to the strut tower so I had to space it up and deal with clearance issues with my wastegate bracket. IMO it's pretty lame that this was glossed over in the item description, I've since figured out what the engine mounts are originally meant for and I'm not very happy with how much I paid for them. The other thing is the car was actually quieter inside with the poly mounts. They transmitted more vibration, but the way the rubber mounts transmit at a different frequency has turned the dashboard into an absolute buzz box. I have to get into it and try to pad all of the rub spots.



just a shot I liked while I was on my back


As I've lamented to some length, I've been fighting a stubborn lean swing around 3k-3300rpm. I've had several people review logs and have visited some local tuners, none of whom were able to get me anywhere. I went around and around doing the mechanical validation, even going back to the stock intake manifold to make sure it wasn't an airflow issue. I started talking with Bobxyz and we got thinking about injection timing. I did some fiddling in TunerStudio and as ever the AFR behavior didn't change. I then took Bob's suggestion to try running semi-sequential injection instead of 2 squirts per cycle simultaneous. I did that just this morning and for the first time I'm within half a point of my target AFR at 3200 rpm. The tune still needs a lot of work, but the change to semi-sequential fuel has been the first thing I've done which has had any effect on the area so I'm encouraged that I am now on the right path.

It's about time to park the car for the winter. I've been getting things together and working on my plan for this year's upgrades. My main initiative is going to be finally getting a hydraulic clutch in the car. I got a steel flywheel and six puck clutch from Yoshifab (the cam is the same RSI stage 3 I'm running now, I just bought it to have a spare available). I'm going to do it with a 262 clutch pedal, a Wilwood master cylinder, and a Tilton hydraulic release bearing. I decided to go with the hydraulic bearing because I want to eliminate the whole clutch fork/pivot element from the equation.



I'm also going to do some more interior work. My Recaros need some foam in some of the bolsters and one has had a rip in the lower bolster since I bought them that I want to finally repair. While they are at the upholstery shop I'm going to have the center sections redone in a Recaro gradient fabric to try and break up all of the black inside the car. Like these:



I'd like to use the same fabric on the back seat. Since the 242 back seat doesn't really have any shape to it, I've been looking for a suitable rear seat I can swap into the car. I'd like something that has more of a two-buckets shape to it so I can use the gradient fabric in the respective center sections. I haven't figured out what kind of seat will work yet, or if I'll end up doing something with the factory seat. I've also been thinking about using the gradient fabric on the door panels in some way but not sure yet.

The other big idea for the year is a meth injection system since I don't have access to e85 in this area. From what I've read so far Aquamist is what I'd like to use.

My rocker panels are really in need of some attention (read: replacement). I need to ask some of the west coast guys about cutting some metal out for me. Doing them is going to mean me wanting to paint the entire car, so I'll have to see what I can get done next year. I had such a hassle getting the paint color for the engine bay, I'm concerned about getting the color right. I might go back to the guy I bought the car from and see who painted the car from him and try to hunt down what paint/code they used to get the tint that's on it. We have also discussed buying a whole different rust free west coast shell and doing an entirely new chassis prep. I'd like to put a car on a rotisserie, stitch weld the entire thing and put a real cage in it. Those are pretty significant costs, but it's still something on my mind if I find the right donor.

That's about it. Brakes are getting in need of replacement but I'll just use regular stuff for next year. I'll probably push an upgrade off another year. I don't want to do R brakes or anything, both for weight and keeping my 16" wheels so probably some Wilwood calipers eventually. The car does go from 40-100mph so fast now that the stock brakes are finally starting to feel a little out of their element.

Here's a bunch of pictures I took in the Summer and never posted:
















I also went today and picked out a whole new project which will hit the driveway tomorrow. It's going to be something really different we are pretty excited to get into. Will update once progress gets kicked off.

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Old 12-04-2016, 10:22 PM   #446
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I remember talking to you at Eeuro a couple months ago. Cool car.
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Old 12-05-2016, 01:02 AM   #447
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Update! Woohoo, exciting. Looks great inside and out.


Get some real brakes. You won't regret it.
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Old 12-05-2016, 01:14 AM   #448
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man, i love this car.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:31 AM   #449
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Spring is near. Update?
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Old 03-06-2017, 10:50 AM   #450
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Spring is near. Update?
No it is creeping up on my to-do list though! It's still sitting in the neighbors garage surrounded by mouse traps. I started building a 940 el camino so we haven't touched the 242 all winter. I'm hoping to do a blitzkrieg of work on it sometime in early April, usually take it out for the first ride of the season in May.

The el camino project is good practice for bodywork, we might end up doing metal work and a respray on this car next year. Need to take a ride up to see Paul Curran and buy a hydro clutch pedal from him and finish pulling in parts for that swap. Otherwise my main goal is to stop ****ing around with the tune now that I finally made some progress right at the end of the season, maybe finally put it on the dyno.

Need to do the proper crank vent system and decide if I'm doing meth or not. Those are the plans/purchases I should finalize pretty soon here.
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