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Old 03-29-2017, 07:31 AM   #726
vintagewrench
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Andrew, Most rear axles will make a noise like what can be heard from yours when the wheels are off of the ground.

If you can also hear the noise when the car is on the ground and you let out the clutch or while driving and changing gears, you may have a problem?

I do not know anything about lockers though, and hopefully someone will know if this noise is normal w/them.
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:04 AM   #727
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Love those wheels and your car! Would be so much fun to have one.
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Old 03-29-2017, 10:09 AM   #728
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Andrew, Most rear axles will make a noise like what can be heard from yours when the wheels are off of the ground.

If you can also hear the noise when the car is on the ground and you let out the clutch or while driving and changing gears, you may have a problem?

I do not know anything about lockers though, and hopefully someone will know if this noise is normal w/them.
I'm hoping it's normal noise exacerbated by the solid mounts. There are some clunks and vibrations but it could also be exhaust. I fixed one last night and if the noise is just what it does then I'm fine with it. Just as long as it isn't going to explode. If it ever became a problem, I could use a set of factory torque rods since the stock brackets were used on the rear end. We'll see.

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Love those wheels and your car! Would be so much fun to have one.
If you want to buy them, shoot me a PM! I'll run them for a bit but I have another set I'm itching to get on the car.
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:59 PM   #729
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:54 PM   #730
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Finished tuning for the most part this weekend. I'm sure it could be tweaked and cleaned up some but it's good for now. Currently running around 12psi which is a hoot in this car. Next things to address will be front shocks that I already broke and an alignment.

I found out my slave cylinder was overextending after the piston seal came out and got lodged between the piston and housing which left me in the middle of nowhere with no gears. Luckily I was like 7 miles from Kyle's so he came and flat towed me back to his house where we fixed it up and I drove the 75 miles back home.

All of the heim joints in the rear are probably going to get replaced with stock shortened rods and rubber bushings. The noise and vibration really inhibits being able to enjoy the car anywhere except for the highway. So I'll need a complete set of torque rods if anyone has a set for '67+ sedans.
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:33 AM   #731
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Finished tuning for the most part this weekend. I'm sure it could be tweaked and cleaned up some but it's good for now. Currently running around 12psi which is a hoot in this car. Next things to address will be front shocks that I already broke and an alignment.

I found out my slave cylinder was overextending after the piston seal came out and got lodged between the piston and housing which left me in the middle of nowhere with no gears. Luckily I was like 7 miles from Kyle's so he came and flat towed me back to his house where we fixed it up and I drove the 75 miles back home.

All of the heim joints in the rear are probably going to get replaced with stock shortened rods and rubber bushings. The noise and vibration really inhibits being able to enjoy the car anywhere except for the highway. So I'll need a complete set of torque rods if anyone has a set for '67+ sedans.
I had the same issue with my slave too. Made me think I had the wrong setup inside (TOB and fork). Still haven't gone back to investigating it. Look forward to seeing what your fix is.

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Old 04-04-2017, 06:15 AM   #732
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We welded a washer to the clutch fork to limit its travel but I'll probably go back and adjust the pedal further down on the pushrod so that engagement is limited by the pedal instead of the pressure plate.
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:52 PM   #733
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Also R brakes are on the front. Just waiting on one more chassis fitting and some rear hoses and brakes can be done.






looks great! What are the details of the brake setup? Where are the brackets from or did you custom make them? Are they stock s40r rotors and calipers?
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:14 PM   #734
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looks great! What are the details of the brake setup? Where are the brackets from or did you custom make them? Are they stock s40r rotors and calipers?
Another member here worked out the brackets and graciously loaned me the design so I could have them cut locally. Hubs are from an 1800E/ES which bolt right on. Rotors, calipers, and pads are off-the-shelf S60R parts for easy maintenance. I ran new hard lines all over the car and used 4an braided hoses and metric to AN adapters for the caliper inlet. The rear is all stock Explorer stuff.

So this is why you don't flip your shock mounts for extra shock travel. I had to drive 75 miles home with one working shock after we tore one off flat-towing the car back to Kyle's. Got that fixed up and another pair swapped on today. Need to align the front, install a gauge bezel, and mess with a couple things in MS and it'll be good for pre-MountainMeet meet this weekend!



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Old 04-05-2017, 01:06 AM   #735
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Put some washers on those bolts please.
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Old 04-05-2017, 04:38 AM   #736
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Another member here worked out the brackets and graciously loaned me the design so I could have them cut locally. Hubs are from an 1800E/ES which bolt right on. Rotors, calipers, and pads are off-the-shelf S60R parts for easy maintenance. I ran new hard lines all over the car and used 4an braided hoses and metric to AN adapters for the caliper inlet. The rear is all stock Explorer stuff.

So this is why you don't flip your shock mounts for extra shock travel. I had to drive 75 miles home with one working shock after we tore one off flat-towing the car back to Kyle's. Got that fixed up and another pair swapped on today. Need to align the front, install a gauge bezel, and mess with a couple things in MS and it'll be good for pre-MountainMeet meet this weekend!



That sucks. I did the same thing and switched it back due to everyone telling me that would happen. Glad you got it fixed so quickly.

Thanks,
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Old 04-05-2017, 06:13 AM   #737
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Put some washers on those bolts please.
I'm pretty sure they didn't even have washers from the factory. I think they would hit the springs?
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:32 AM   #738
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Hmmm, just looked at mine and I didn't have washers either, just seemed sketchy
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Old 04-05-2017, 05:28 PM   #739
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The bolts go through from the bottom normally. I used some flanged nuts so I had to flip them around. Now my shock bolts are even with the control arm so we should be good to go.
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:08 AM   #740
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I loved seeing this car in the mountains this weekend. Andrew should be proud of it...he's done a great job.

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Old 04-20-2017, 06:34 PM   #741
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Well the car did really well in the mountains two weekends ago. It did around 750 miles and nothing needed any immediate attention. The car ran cool and the tune worked well enough to drive it around and have some fun. Now I have a list of things I want to change/fix after getting some substantial seat time.

Rear links - The heim joints in the rear end are too much. I'm going to shorten a set of torque rods/trailing arms and go back to rubber bushings if I can find a set.

Noise in MS - This is probably the most annoying issue so far. I have a bunch of noise in my CLT, MAT, TPS, and AFR signals. I've been poking around trying to find the source of this and I haven't come up with much yet. I originally had some things grounded to the chassis until I read that you shouldn't do that, so I switched everything to ground directly on the battery. I'm still having noise issues though and the TPS signal is making accel enrich do weird things. AFRs are kind of all over the place. I know that this wasn't a problem when everything was in Jared's 240 and I'm not sure what I've done differently but this is the one thing that's making me not want to drive the car right now. I can deal with rear end noise but this makes it a pain to drive around town.

This is just a short (~10 sec) datalog that shows the noise.

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Old 06-08-2017, 01:19 PM   #742
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When I got my car fired up yesterday, it made a ridiculous screeching/whistling sound. Thanks to this thread, I instantly knew it was the TB flange leaking. Saved me a lot of time!
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Old 06-08-2017, 01:43 PM   #743
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Andrew, double check that the signal wires for those are well clear of the coils, and injectors. I used some cable shield loom over my clt iat and tps signal wires and that solved the noise issues from having coil and injector wires in the same bundle. There's some stuff that looks like a Chinese finger trap that is tin coated copper and I ran it all the way to the sn connection and grounded at the furthest point I could.
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Old 06-08-2017, 02:34 PM   #744
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You could twist the wires together and use some loom to help reduce the noise.
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Old 06-08-2017, 02:44 PM   #745
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this is really similar what I used, found it at the local second hand scrap metal shop.

https://www.wirecare.com//interest/a...FUiUfgodX-IAjw
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:26 PM   #746
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I emailed DIY and they seemed to think I should be using the sensor return wire into the ECU instead of grounding my sensors to the battery. I still haven't tried it. The car is on jackstands again while I'm waiting for my wheels to get finished.

My harness is basically the same as it was in the car it came from so I don't know if that's my issue or not. If the problem persists, I'll start shielding wires and see what happens. I only modified the TPS wires because my TB was pushed so much further forward than it is on a B230 intake, but the noise is in all of the sensors.

This weekend I'm going to finish up swapping out my trailing arms and hope my wheels come back soon.
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:30 PM   #747
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Your sensor ground goes to the battery? That's definitely your problem. Sensor ground goes to the ECU. ECU grounds to the battery.
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:36 PM   #748
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Yeah, I used the sensor return as instructions say to, still had issues. Talked to a few local guys using ms on their wire tucked rabbits and stuff, and since they were all about the clean bay looks, they had all ran the entire harness in one loom and only short trips out to individual sensors, having all the signal wires running underneath their COP brackets and laying on top of the injectors, they battled noise issues, so started shielding things individually within the loom until the issues were gone. My harness is similar, the only thing that is not included in the big bundle is the wideband signal, RPM and 2nd trigger wire. My issue was that my IAT and CLT would spike and read 240F or -40F while at steady cruise. makes all sorts of issues when your cruising down the freeway and temp drops to -40. That was throwing it into warm up enrichment and well, then my AFRs went pig rich and ego was running in circles to correct it.
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:41 PM   #749
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Yeah the biggest issue is that it makes accel enrich act up. The guy from DIY mentioned that the noise isn't really even that bad, but I'd like it to not be there and I know it shouldn't be.

I'm not really sure what my thinking was with the sensor grounds. I had read that you just ground them to the block and I want to say Jared never used the sensor return either. But it's also been three years since we took everything out of his car sooo...
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Old 07-04-2017, 06:46 PM   #750
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Finally got some more work put in on this thing. I replaced my heim-joint trailing arms with a set of shortened factory arms with bushings. That helped my rear suspension clatter tremendously. Still a little there so I'll probably whip up a set of adjustable torque rods out of a pair of factory ones I have here. That should clear it up and make the rear end very civilized. Also went for another round of brake bleeding and they are feeling much better.

Still having issues with MS though. I moved all of my sensor grounds from the battery to the sensor return at the ECU (which fixed my sensor noise problem, yay!)and the car would no longer start (awwww). It would crank and sputter but never actually start. Showing sync loss reason #11. I started thinking I was having some issue with my CAS but before I got too invested in that, I wanted to move the ground back to the wrong spot and see what happens. I did and the car starts and runs as it did before. While using the sensor return, my tooth logger ended up looking like this:



Not real sure where to go from here. I've been reading up on this a lot and just trying to learn all I can about the way this whole thing works but it's still pretty out there for me. I finally got my LMs mounted though so at least it looks good.

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