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Andrew's 122 turbo project

Andrew, There is a better way to deal with the scored bearing than polishing and no abrasives will get into the engine. Check out http (insert colon) //theoldmotor.com/?p=56711 on my website that shows bearing scrapers and contains a link to a good article that tells you how to use them.

Use the other cam and remove any oil from both the bearing journal and the bearing and put it in dry. If it is too tight to turn with the cap on, use the cam bearings and caps on either side to hold it. Turn it at least a couple of revolutions and remove the cam. The shiny spots that show contact on the bearing need to be scraped down; continue until it turns reasonably well and then put the cap on with the bolts somewhat loose and follow what you did earlier with the lower half until you can fully tighten down the bolts and the cam turns by hand.

When you get to that point (it can take quite a bit of time) oil it and spin the cam by some means and then pull it apart and scrape the high spots that show again until you can turn the shaft easily by hand. At that point plastigauge it to ensure you have the required clearance.

Take your time as to do this right and may take several hours to accomplish but if you do it correctly you may be be able to use the head as is at least for a while.

You can use scraper part # 3779A11 @ http://www.mcmaster.com/#bearing-scrapers/=142vbcb and get it quickly from McMaster-Carr in Atlanta.
 
That's really interesting and so far before my time that I hadn't really considered that those existed :lol:

I believe I'll drop another head off at the shop next week just to have for what appears to be inevitable. Most of the missing material from the cam just transfered to the bearing so it might just be the end for this one. Or I might file it down and stick the borked cam back in just for laughs.

I'm in the market for another comparable cam though, if anyone wants to part with one.
 
I'm not sure it's worth the expense, but there are replaceable cam bearings made to repair scored cam journals. You also might be able to find someone that does spray welding to repair the cam.
 
My concern with the cam journal is that there's extra material left from the cam. So I'd need a way to get that smooth and then make sure it's still round. The real problem is I'm super impatient and I wish I had a spare head that didn't need any work that I could put on now. It's been two years since the car has run and I'm itching to get it back.
 
The damaged cam journal would need to be line bored to fit the replaceable bearing shells. That would remove the material that's scored and make the hole round again.
 
How does this **** even happen to me?

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After swapping new valves and a B cam into my spare head, I wasn't able to get the cam to come off the valves at all. Zero clearance on every valve. So the head is going to need to go to the machine shop for some work and while it's there I think I'll go ahead and have them refurb the whole thing and cut it for my oversize intake valves as well.

In the meantime, I'm going to pick up a spare head today and plop it on in hopes that I can get this thing running in the next two weeks.

Otherwise, I discovered that I plumbed my oil cooler hoses backwards which was feeding oil into the wrong side of the filter. So hopefully that's the oil pressure issue I was getting.

Also R brakes are on the front. Just waiting on one more chassis fitting and some rear hoses and brakes can be done.

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Everything is back together and the car is running again. It will idle (not well) with no help so that's good I guess. It responds (not well) to a little throttle input. Had to order a different cable to work with my laptop.

I bled the clutch and it feels really nice. It's only a little stiffer than stock and much better than the two cars I've driven with this clutch that had cable-actuated systems.

To anyone who watched the original video of it running, do you recognize that crazy whistle/squeal? It seems to be coming from the manifold/turbo/downpipe but everything is so loud that I can't pinpoint it. I believe it's coming from the manifold-turbo connection because I reused an old gasket there. I've never heard an exhaust leak quite like that though.

Picking up rear brake hoses today and hopefully my last fitting will come in and I can bleed the brakes.
 
Oil pressure is all good now. I had my feed and return from the block reversed :oops:. Although I plumbed it the way the plate was labeled :grrr:. I confirmed I'm getting oil at the turbo feed yesterday. If I cut off the car the noise will die off while the turbo is still spinning down for a second or two so I don't believe it's that. There's very little shaft play and it spins freely.
 
Ok, so its not the turbine/compressor rubbing, and not the bearings squealing. Maybe something rubbing. do you have a timing cover?

Lower timing cover is on but the upper is not. I'll probably add it later. It's a pretty loud noise when you're standing there in front of it and it's pretty obviously coming from the exhaust side. I haven't really poked around underneath/behind but it doesn't seem to be that direction.
 
Yeah but I ran it for a minute with the belts off to rule out that and the water pump. Although my voltmeter was reading like 11v so I hope the alternator isn't about to take a dump too.
 
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