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Old 12-02-2019, 01:16 PM   #1476
RvolvoR
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
I used the Loctite. Same one Kenny uses. Can't remember the number off the top of my head.
strip it all back apart and put the pink stuff in there. I have heard of/seen issues on more than 1 occasion using not the pink stuff. JohnMC had constant issues with leaks until he spent $30 on the tube of Volvo OE stuff and used it.
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Old 12-02-2019, 01:51 PM   #1477
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I haz tube of pink goop.
I’ll can also find you (Harlard) some better o-rings, just gotta give me a spare one to measure.
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:07 PM   #1478
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I used these o-rings.
https://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-...rice-for-1-pc/

I also used Loctite 510, which I take to be nearly equivalent (or equivalent) to the Volvo branded product.
(it is the higher temp of the 2 Loctite anerobic sealants, Loctite 518 being the lower temp variety)
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=289411
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:17 PM   #1479
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Thanks for that link!
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Old 12-02-2019, 04:40 PM   #1480
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
strip it all back apart and put the pink stuff in there. I have heard of/seen issues on more than 1 occasion using not the pink stuff. JohnMC had constant issues with leaks until he spent $30 on the tube of Volvo OE stuff and used it.
That's not for the valve cover - it's just between the head and cam cover - where pressurized oil feed to the lifters flows.

I used Volvo pink stuff a couple of times with no leaks. I tried the stuff IPD sells for less once, it seeped in several spots, until I pulled it back apart and used the pink stuff again.

My technique (same using the IPD stuff):
- get it spotlessly clean
- use rubbing alcohol to get the traces of oil out of there - clean and bone dry
- use a little foam roller to put on an even and fairly thin layer of pink stuff
- slap it together and tighten those 30(ish) bolts down snug, but not *tight*.

For the valve covers I'd just get everything clean, a touch of RTV here and there on the 'corners' (where the cam caps bolt onto the cam carrier and the VC humps over them). Then sometimes I'd install the gasket dry, sometimes I'd use some of that Indian Head shellac stuff. I never had much of a problem with the VC leaking either way.
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:12 PM   #1481
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
strip it all back apart and put the pink stuff in there. I have heard of/seen issues on more than 1 occasion using not the pink stuff. JohnMC had constant issues with leaks until he spent $30 on the tube of Volvo OE stuff and used it.
As far as I can tell there are no exterior leaks concerning the anaerobic...

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
I used these o-rings.
https://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-...rice-for-1-pc/

I also used Loctite 510, which I take to be nearly equivalent (or equivalent) to the Volvo branded product.
(it is the higher temp of the 2 Loctite anerobic sealants, Loctite 518 being the lower temp variety)
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=289411
Thanks for doing the legwork on those o-rings

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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
That's not for the valve cover - it's just between the head and cam cover - where pressurized oil feed to the lifters flows.

I used Volvo pink stuff a couple of times with no leaks. I tried the stuff IPD sells for less once, it seeped in several spots, until I pulled it back apart and used the pink stuff again.

My technique (same using the IPD stuff):
- get it spotlessly clean
- use rubbing alcohol to get the traces of oil out of there - clean and bone dry
- use a little foam roller to put on an even and fairly thin layer of pink stuff
- slap it together and tighten those 30(ish) bolts down snug, but not *tight*.

For the valve covers I'd just get everything clean, a touch of RTV here and there on the 'corners' (where the cam caps bolt onto the cam carrier and the VC humps over them). Then sometimes I'd install the gasket dry, sometimes I'd use some of that Indian Head shellac stuff. I never had much of a problem with the VC leaking either way.
Thanks! The Elwis gaskets currently available seem too thick. I added a thin layer of RTV, but that doesn't seem to be enough.
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:23 PM   #1482
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The o-rings sit in the same area which uses sealant, no?
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:34 PM   #1483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
I used these o-rings.
https://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-...rice-for-1-pc/

I also used Loctite 510, which I take to be nearly equivalent (or equivalent) to the Volvo branded product.
(it is the higher temp of the 2 Loctite anerobic sealants, Loctite 518 being the lower temp variety)
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=289411
oh cool find on the orings
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:54 PM   #1484
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
The o-rings sit in the same area which uses sealant, no?
same level but no, no sealant should go on there
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Old 12-02-2019, 08:08 PM   #1485
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I am pretty sure you are supposed to apply it to any and all of that sealing surface between the lower half and cam carrier. While a bit grainy, the service manual picture shows residue there in the cleaning section of the manual. Whiteblocks are also done the same way with the cam cover using o-rings and sealant.
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Old 12-02-2019, 08:13 PM   #1486
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http://brickspeed.net/VolvoDocs/misc...B234Engine.pdf

page 29 of the manual, at the bottom.
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Old 12-02-2019, 08:13 PM   #1487
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Yea I agree...the AQ171 manual I found indicates sealant on the o-ring sealing surface as well.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/11...page=70#manual



*Edit: interestingly the above manual notes Loctite 518.

Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 12-02-2019 at 11:16 PM..
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Old 12-02-2019, 11:10 PM   #1488
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Chicks dig twin-cam Volvo's...
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Old 12-03-2019, 05:42 PM   #1489
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First go I used anaerobic as prescribed and it leaked. I'll try the o rings that oldschoolvolvo recommended along with the expensive oem sealant next time.
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Old 12-03-2019, 06:31 PM   #1490
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
First go I used anaerobic as prescribed and it leaked. I'll try the o rings that oldschoolvolvo recommended along with the expensive oem sealant next time.
I've sealed tons of engines with the Volvo Pink stuff. I've only had one leak (I didn't get all of the oil off). BUT, I have had a ton of cars come in with leaks that had been worked on at other shops that used other products.

The Volvo stuff is worth the money. Check expiry date on the bottle they give you. Once open though, you could probably get 4-5 reseals done with the same bottle (assuming the expiry date isn't passed).

Jordan
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Old 12-04-2019, 05:23 PM   #1491
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Sir Harlard and I were just discussing this offline.
In case anyone doesn't want to spend the $25 for the "ATL" electrical bulkhead for upgraded fuel pump wiring, here's the exact same part for ~$2..

https://www.productsforautomation.co.../cd09n2-bk.htm
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Old 01-11-2020, 03:08 PM   #1492
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Not a whole lot has happened since the Dino session other than ironing out bugs and minor additions:

-added LED signal bulbs and Morimoto reflector-specific HIDs. Been having trouble being seen by other drivers early in the morning and at dusk, even with e-codes and 80/100 bulbs.
-replaced a strut bearing on one of the luxe steer mounts
-over axle pipe rubbed. Fixed that.
-broke the engine torque mount at a weld (), re-did that, added some preload and shortened the thing about 1/3”. Valve cover would rub on firewall AC lines. Clamped a piece of hose on the afflicted tube to prevent leaks. Hopefully this prevents any further rubbing without the need of a stiffer mount, which would make things somewhat intolerable on account of the T5 rattle
-shimmed diff pumpkin bump stop
-fixed a leaky trunk seal
-chased some chowdered wheel stud threads
-added a harmonic damper kit to keep the front brakes from sounding like foghorns
-installed an external VR conditioner for VSS up front. VSS is nice. Probably going to use a threaded body hall sensor pointed at the pinion flange for VSS2, ŗ la Buchka. A tone ring on the carrier body jams on the pinion for some reason...
-replaced the AEM 320 with a Walbro 450 in a late model sender plus a couple bulkheads for wiring and AN fittings

Other than that, I have been using the car every day with nary a problem (for a not-lightly modified 40 year old ****box).

I do however have a few things to do, still:

-fix an inop park signal on the wiper motor
-figure out the diode situation with the turn signal indicator on the R-sport cluster (one indicator for both sides)...with the cluster bulb in place, indicating will trip both sides. This is even more motivation to go with a CANBUS dash, honestly...
-leaky sunroof seal
-fix door/seatbelt chime Microswitch and install the Toto Africa chime, because old memes are best
-add lifting hinges to false floor in trunk
-add 262c trunk carpet set and some sound deadnening. So plush.
-take t5 out and inspect. This brings me to the next point...

In the meantime I purchased an E39 528 Touring with a broken motor and a replacement plus spare parts in the trunk for $800. Hoping to have this thing driveable and in nice shape for $2000 all in. Until then, the 242 has to remain as my commuter.

Pics of my drive home to the gym this morning and of a busted ass old beemer.






This is the place where I picked up the engine from. The insanely steep slope made for an interesting extraction.
















Last edited by Harlard; 01-11-2020 at 06:24 PM..
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Old 01-11-2020, 03:22 PM   #1493
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I always forget that you drive this daily. That's ridiculous. How many miles have you put on since you bought it?
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Old 01-11-2020, 03:29 PM   #1494
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I love how you are always tackling something automotive, I like your style. That e39 will be a nice daily once you’re done I’m sure. In the meantime, your 242 is sexy as hell, dat blue is just mhmmm.
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Old 01-11-2020, 06:00 PM   #1495
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I love e39 wagons. Such a score for $800.
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Old 01-11-2020, 09:11 PM   #1496
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Man, I was just looking at cheap 6-cylinder E39 wagons the other day...I need to sell my Roadmaster and get something more like that. Nice score and good luck with the repairs.
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Old 01-11-2020, 09:24 PM   #1497
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Originally Posted by The Full Banana View Post
I always forget that you drive this daily. That's ridiculous. How many miles have you put on since you bought it?
About 20k. I donít ever drive very far, and when the kids are involved, we usually take the TSX. Itís far from terrible but I am inching ever so much closer to get an EV to handle grocery runs and my comically short commute.

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I love how you are always tackling something automotive, I like your style. That e39 will be a nice daily once youíre done Iím sure. In the meantime, your 242 is sexy as hell, dat blue is just mhmmm.
Thanks! Hope I like it

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I love e39 wagons. Such a score for $800.
RIGHT??

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Man, I was just looking at cheap 6-cylinder E39 wagons the other day...I need to sell my Roadmaster and get something more like that. Nice score and good luck with the repairs.
Thanks. Iím having a hard time saying no to myself as far as simple mods are concerned...you know, flashing the ECM, M54 intake manifold, S52US exhaust manifolds, ZHP cams, LSD, and manual swap.

Probably repairing it and puttering around as it was meant to be is for the best.
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Old 01-11-2020, 09:27 PM   #1498
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Nice score dude!
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Old 01-11-2020, 09:35 PM   #1499
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Thanks. Iím having a hard time saying no to myself as far as simple mods are concerned...you know, flashing the ECM, M54 intake manifold, S52US exhaust manifolds, ZHP cams, LSD, and manual swap.

Probably repairing it and puttering around as it was meant to be is for the best.
you should just leave it completely stock. Its fine having a daily driver which hasn't been ****ed with.
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Old 01-11-2020, 10:19 PM   #1500
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Good luck with the E39. I do NOT miss mine.
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