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Old 06-30-2020, 12:14 AM   #1026
joel142
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Oh, and for the 140 series connoisseurs out there can we get a shot of that alternator mount!
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:17 AM   #1027
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Yeah, we'll see about that. I can't find the stupid heater hoses, gotta just bypass them at this point since the firewall plate is different than a 240 and NLA, and mine's rusted. At least that heater pipe we fabbed up fit nice though! lol

Might fire it up this weekend if things go well, then I can start tuning on the new setup, assuming all the cards align perfectly...
That's funny, I'm starting to think I may bypass my heater core, too. Normally I'd never willingly tae the heater out of a street car, but the 16 valve head makes using the stock heater valve impossible, and even if I make a custom 240-style one, that space would be nice to use for fuel line routing. We'll see.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:20 AM   #1028
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Oh, and for the 140 series connoisseurs out there can we get a shot of that alternator mount!
You can tell I made this before I got the TIG welder. I've thought about remaking it with better welds, but it'll get powder coated anyway and never seen be anyone. I may try to replace the universal tensioner bracket with a heim jointed one, because it'll be easier to adjust.



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Old 06-30-2020, 11:20 AM   #1029
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Just got word it sounds like the late 140's will take the 240 heater box as well. Figures, since Ryan tossed his old ones. lol

If I go that route, I will have to see if the heater valve I got works for the 240's, but if not, I've got a NIB late 140 heater valve that will be up for sale, if it's of use.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:24 AM   #1030
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There's a whole spec (pdf) for the ORB/J1926-1 fitting and when properly applied with a port tool (pdf) I've seen these take a 10,000m of water column (from the outside!) when assembled by highschool kids. On the flip side it's a pretty resilient seal if the chamfer is concentric to the hole, smooth, and provides a good corner crush into the fitting. The forces between the ramp and the inside edge of the fitting are tremendous given the force exerted by the threads.

I modified my NiW fuel rail to take ORB and an external regulator and, carefully, hit it with a 60* cutter down to a little less than the right port ID. I did that by hand but I hedged my bets and cut the threads deep enough that I could face off another 0.050 or so and try again if I needed. After populating it with injectors and mounting it on the head I set the regulator with compressed air. The fittings were happily leak free. I've since recut the oil filter/thermostat housing and a coolant port at that angle but those fit in the mill. The oil thermostat ORB "ports" had nothing more than a thread lead-in to seat the o-ring. I imagine most users just tighten the crap out of that and it's leak-free-ish enough. At these pressures its a fairly robust sealing method.

So impressed with the build. I keep telling myself: "no, I'm not going to rip mine up. First it needs to run before it comes apart again!" You're so many iterations ahead of mine.
This is good info, thanks. I cut the threads about 2x deeper than they needed to be, so maybe I'll try to cut a 60° chamfer and see how it looks.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:27 AM   #1031
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That's funny, I'm starting to think I may bypass my heater core, too. Normally I'd never willingly tae the heater out of a street car, but the 16 valve head makes using the stock heater valve impossible, and even if I make a custom 240-style one, that space would be nice to use for fuel line routing. We'll see.
You would highly regret this, lol
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 06-30-2020, 12:35 PM   #1032
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You remember he lives in Santa Cruz, not Portland, right? lol

But yeah, valid point if he drives somewhere cool.
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Old 06-30-2020, 12:37 PM   #1033
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You remember he lives in Santa Cruz, not Portland, right? lol

But yeah, valid point if he drives somewhere cool.
Sacramento in February at night is still not comfortable without some heat.
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Old 06-30-2020, 01:14 PM   #1034
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Yeah, there have been plenty of times when not having heat would have SUCKED. I'll give it a good college try.

I think what I'll need to do is just make a really simple bulkhead pass through thing, then use a universal valve inside the cabin. But the hose barbs in the engine bay will need to be really low profile.
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Old 06-30-2020, 02:04 PM   #1035
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Yeah, there have been plenty of times when not having heat would have SUCKED. I'll give it a good college try.

I think what I'll need to do is just make a really simple bulkhead pass through thing, then use a universal valve inside the cabin. But the hose barbs in the engine bay will need to be really low profile.
Would AN or JIC bulkhead fittings with tight 90deg fittings work?
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Old 06-30-2020, 02:52 PM   #1036
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Would AN or JIC bulkhead fittings with tight 90deg fittings work?
Brilliant. That could definitely help. That or making mitered 90° hose barb tubes. Can't get much tighter than that.
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Old 06-30-2020, 04:17 PM   #1037
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https://www.stsmachininginc.com/prod...-1975-1993-240
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Old 06-30-2020, 06:16 PM   #1038
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Ah. Based on the photo of it installed, I don't think that'll clear. I'm pretty confident I can make something that'll work.
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Old 06-30-2020, 09:31 PM   #1039
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At least you get the idea of what it'll look like WITHOUT having to build it. lol
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Old 07-01-2020, 08:25 AM   #1040
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I haven't had heat in my car in 5 years, haven't really missed it yet but I also hardly drive it.

Don't think plumbing will be a big deal for you but is a little electric hot rod box attractive at all? I've considered one to facilitate gutting behind the dash.
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Old 07-01-2020, 10:23 AM   #1041
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I haven't had heat in my car in 5 years, haven't really missed it yet but I also hardly drive it.

Don't think plumbing will be a big deal for you but is a little electric hot rod box attractive at all? I've considered one to facilitate gutting behind the dash.
I guess I've always assumed those don't work well. I've never even seen one in person, though. It would be nice to pull out the heater core and all the related garbage. But like you said, plumbing will probably not be too hard.
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Old 07-01-2020, 12:30 PM   #1042
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Awesome job on the turbo hanger & support brace dude; great attention to detail.

I think you're right that longer is better for the hanger rod. This allows more freedom of expansion in any horizontal direction while keeping the rod position at small angles meaning not much upward lifting force imported by the rod itself. With a shorter rod it would swing up more quickly and artificially lift the turbo and manifold which is not what you want, I'm sure.

I also like the mounting plate bolted to the side of the turbine inlet flange - keeps the rod away from the center housing and yet you didn't have to weld a (crack-prone) boss to the side of the turbine housing or anything silly like that.

Keep it up!
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Old 07-01-2020, 03:37 PM   #1043
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Awesome job on the turbo hanger & support brace dude; great attention to detail.

I think you're right that longer is better for the hanger rod. This allows more freedom of expansion in any horizontal direction while keeping the rod position at small angles meaning not much upward lifting force imported by the rod itself. With a shorter rod it would swing up more quickly and artificially lift the turbo and manifold which is not what you want, I'm sure.

I also like the mounting plate bolted to the side of the turbine inlet flange - keeps the rod away from the center housing and yet you didn't have to weld a (crack-prone) boss to the side of the turbine housing or anything silly like that.

Keep it up!
Thanks Chris!
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Old 08-18-2020, 12:01 AM   #1044
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So, I got that intake manifold all tacked up, and proceeded to ruin it with my new welder. Super great. I'm going a different route with that, so in the meantime I started working on an air box.

I mocked something up in cardboard. The plan is to house whatever kind of cone filter I can fit inside this box, which I'll make out of aluminum.



Then, ideally, I'll be able pull fresh air from between the headlight and intercooler.





Does anyone have any input on air box design? Is there a reason to try to get more volume in the box? Should I try to design something around a flat drop-in filter rather than a cone?

Also, I am thinking about using 6061 t4 for this, because it might bend easier. Is that a good call? How does 6061 t4 weld?

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Old 08-18-2020, 10:50 AM   #1045
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6061 t4 will weld nice, but depending on thickness, it will be a tough to bend by hand. If you have access to a bending brake, it should go a bit easier. When you go to weld it, make sure that you have the tightest joints possible.

5052 bends easier, and if you go old skool acetylene carbon coat anneal, it will bend super easy by hand over the edge of a table.
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Old 08-18-2020, 10:54 AM   #1046
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I've had the harbor freight metal brake on my list for a while for projects like these. https://www.harborfreight.com/36-in-...and-62518.html
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Old 08-18-2020, 12:07 PM   #1047
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6061 t4 will weld nice, but depending on thickness, it will be a tough to bend by hand. If you have access to a bending brake, it should go a bit easier. When you go to weld it, make sure that you have the tightest joints possible.

5052 bends easier, and if you go old skool acetylene carbon coat anneal, it will bend super easy by hand over the edge of a table.
5052 is the bees knees. You can also acetylene anneal 6061, but 5052 is what you want to use in this application.
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Old 08-18-2020, 12:33 PM   #1048
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I've had the harbor freight metal brake on my list for a while for projects like these. https://www.harborfreight.com/36-in-...and-62518.html
I've been looking at this, or making a simple, smaller one since I'll never really need the 3 foot capacity. I'm so pressed for space in my workshop that a smaller bench mounted thing might work better.
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Old 08-18-2020, 12:35 PM   #1049
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6061 t4 will weld nice, but depending on thickness, it will be a tough to bend by hand. If you have access to a bending brake, it should go a bit easier. When you go to weld it, make sure that you have the tightest joints possible.

5052 bends easier, and if you go old skool acetylene carbon coat anneal, it will bend super easy by hand over the edge of a table.
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5052 is the bees knees. You can also acetylene anneal 6061, but 5052 is what you want to use in this application.
I had a 12x48" sheet of 5052 in my cart on onlinemetals.com, but then I read that it doesn't weld the same as 6xxx series. Something about it being even more prone to hot shortness and cracking?
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Old 08-18-2020, 12:58 PM   #1050
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I just use 4043 filler when I weld it. I think it behaves very similar to 6061 when welding.
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