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Old 11-24-2019, 04:08 PM   #51
77volvo245
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Originally Posted by Vol242vo View Post
I didnít think the rear seat from a wagon worked in a 242 or 244??? I just passed up a really nice black/grey one in a 245...better go see if itís still there I guess.
It will not fit.
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Old 11-24-2019, 10:37 PM   #52
TuxedoS60
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It will not fit.
It fits just fine. Mounting is obviously a different challenge but its fitting normally.
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Old 12-01-2019, 02:11 PM   #53
brickcupra
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Default rear seats !!!

i guess whatever it takes to get her going right?
I redid my rear seats in my wagon cause I changed the front seats from a Mazda 3 black to red and the rear seats had some cigarette burns , so i took the center part of the same car that donated the front seats and stitched them into rear seats,( part factory upholstery, part Mazda rear seat centers) they came out pretty good for a first timer .
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Old 12-01-2019, 03:27 PM   #54
dl242gt
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Save the b21F intake manifold and the valve cover. Those are useful
Make sure you save the brace for the intake manifold, too.

Have fun with the project. If you ever want some rust. We can ship you a bucketful for cheap.
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Old 05-06-2020, 02:23 PM   #55
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So uh. Sorry for the radio silence I caught the bug (for LS swaps, not COVID) and forgot the updates.

Last everyone saw I restored the interior... so here we go with a MASSIVE (seriously) update...

First off:

I ordered some essentials. Giffins mounts, Hooker "style" headers.



and powder coated the mounts, and later cerakoted the headers:





You can see by that photo I also got an LS6 manifold, and ICT Valley cover to delete the knock sensors (not required, but looked cool)



Put new spark plugs in for the future, installed STS steering shaft and I did my first test fit:



Battery tray area was COMPLETELY rusted. Never did get a good enough photo but trust me the battery stand and areas of the fender were VERY rusted. (You can kinda see in the pic above) So I tackled that as my first ever attempt at body work:









Figured if I did all that work, I had to pull the motor back out anyway - lets paint the bay! (I was waiting for parts and got bored)










Have a ton more to show off, but dont have the pics on hand so I'll get those today for another post. However, pulled fuel pump assembly out to attach the Walbro 255 I got... and realized this part is going to be a lot harder than I thought...

Sooooo here's what my dumb*** decided to attempt - I will post photos as I go along, but I'm waiting for fittings to arrive (hopefully tomorrow)



^ Removed stock fuel pump, and cut return line shorter to make room for bigger pump



Cut, and drilled out all the other hoses as I will be kinda setting up my own here... itll make sense in the next pic



And here's how I am hoping to make this work:
GRND: Ground wire passthrough
X: Just weld this closed
Two Black Dots: Drill out for sender wire and power wire
6AN: 2x -6AN Bulkeahd 90 degree fittings with tube nuts to create my feed and return lines.

Will advise how stupid this idea was soon.

Thats all for this post. Expect TONS of progress.
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Old 05-06-2020, 02:36 PM   #56
TuxedoS60
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Other updates:

Installed Wilwood Clutch master (dont mind the saw dust, friend is working on a wood project near my car...)



Painted, and installed brake booster after attaching a Mustang GT master cylinder that will cope with the bigger brakes



ALMOST installed the TSP oil pan, but I'm kinda iffy on the idea of not using the factory LS windage tray... and in my haste I threw it away so I ordered a new one and will likely utilize it. So it hasnt gotten bolted on yet sadly. Anyone have info on whether you need to still use the factory windage tray in conjunction withe the TSP baffle tray?



Got a bellhousing from FABbot which was a mistake on my part. I was under the impression they did the machining before they sent them but nope - they just send you a regular bellhousing fresh out of the junk yard for $80 instead of the same thing on eBay for $50... anyway... cleaned it (it was quite dirty) and painted it. Hoping because I got the NEXGEN kit I wont need to do any machining anyway which would make me less bitter about the $30 extra I spent., and got a battery.



And my Holley Terminator X arrived yesterday........

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Old 05-06-2020, 03:00 PM   #57
240wagonguy
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Wow I thought the guy did the cleanup for you. He should for that price...damn bellhousings are basically free.

Next Gen kit is supposed to eliminate machining the bellhousing. I have a nextgen kit sitting here for my 740 driftmobile.
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Old 05-06-2020, 03:14 PM   #58
TuxedoS60
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Wow I thought the guy did the cleanup for you. He should for that price...damn bellhousings are basically free.

Next Gen kit is supposed to eliminate machining the bellhousing. I have a nextgen kit sitting here for my 740 driftmobile.
Yeah, the website is very vague about what you get. It explains that the bellhousing gets cleaned, machined, poweder coated, and sent to you - yet then you have to pick specific options of what you want done. Its confusing and I made the mistake of assuming that the options you had to pick from were EXTRA besides what was already explained in the product description... but no - apparently for $80 you get a straight from junkyard bellhousing. You have to pay nearly $150 to get it prepped. ANYWAY - yes, hoping my NEXGEN kit means none of this matters and I can just chalk the $30 up to supporting small business.
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Old 05-08-2020, 09:45 PM   #59
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Starting assembling the FABbot kit today, only to have the feed fitting get ruined by my stupidity. On the bright side, my NEXGen kit means I do not have to do any custom bellhousing work - and after talking with the owner of FABbot about me ruining the adapter, I could not be more impressed/pleased with his customer service. Thus - I retract everything I said about the bellhousing. Possibly a fluke in that it didnt get cleaned, but regardless the guy is awesome and I am proud my $30 went to supporting that customer service.

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Old 05-12-2020, 11:42 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by TuxedoS60 View Post

Cut, and drilled out all the other hoses as I will be kinda setting up my own here... itll make sense in the next pic



And here's how I am hoping to make this work:
GRND: Ground wire passthrough
X: Just weld this closed
Two Black Dots: Drill out for sender wire and power wire
6AN: 2x -6AN Bulkeahd 90 degree fittings with tube nuts to create my feed and return lines.

Will advise how stupid this idea was soon.

Thats all for this post. Expect TONS of progress.
Curious to see the final result, I planned to do something similar.
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Old 05-15-2020, 12:04 AM   #61
TuxedoS60
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Curious to see the final result, I planned to do something similar.
I hate to disappoint but I was just not competent enough for it. I was also getting really upset that every friggen part of the fittings is sold separately. Need tube nuts? Well dont forget the sleeves, and the fitting that they screw into as well as needing to flare them to a very specific AN line size. I wasnt aware AN was so annoying when I decided to use it - I have since decided to buy a new sender, and weld the bastards.



Pulled rear end in prep for the 8.8 I also pulled:





and lastly mounted trans for final install tomorrow.

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Old 06-02-2020, 10:39 AM   #62
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Thought i'd check out your build and share this youtube link for the TSP pan. I followed what he did to modify the windage tray to get everything to fit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0DQ7-vCz7s
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