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I also like it!!!
It should make a big difference.
I look at this and my mind goes to how to make it bolt on.
If you clamped the panhard mount around the axle tube on either side of the torque arm mount and located it using the torque arm bolt, I think it could work. It still would require cutting off old mount of course.
I'm I correct in assuming I can apply most of this knowledge to my 122S as well?
I?d like to see this video with Pobst and this 245, too. Link?
Weird; the post seems to have vanished. I know I didn't delete it. Anyway, enjoy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvF7IwiQQ2Q
Pictures of the relocation? How much did you change it?Just a brief update; the relocation seems to have helped somewhat, but still hasn't fully cured the issue (or made it symmetrical).
We did notice a bit more rear-end looseness (as implied), though some poor tire decisions left us running the whole weekend on less than fresh rubber which made comparison more difficult.
Enjoy the last lap of the weekend, with Racer Simon almost, but not quite, passing the Chotus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43bE2ycm3OA&feature=youtu.be
Pictures of the relocation? How much did you change it?
I posted some questions and thoughts in the other thread, if you're able to respond: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=5953920&postcount=43
Hello Jim,Regarding your axle temps, during a Lucky Dog endurance race at PIR, we saw a max of 265 - 275 deg F from a temp sender plugged into the fill plug. Fast lap was a 1.33, I think? Thereabouts anyway.
The setup: stock steel cover, 3.31 gears, rebuilt (new seals and bearings with about 5 races on them), fresh 200-treadwear 225 width tires, fresh charge of Amsoil Severe Gear SAE 75W140 (which I know is thicker than Volvo calls for, and it's synthetic, which Eaton is somewhat agnostic about), high-preload Eaton Truetrac. Car makes 268hp to the wheels, and 294 ft-lbs. We really have no idea, but stripped and caged, the car probably weighs... 2700lbs? Maybe?
So do with that what you will. I'm looking for a stock aluminum cover, maybe an air scoop, since the cover occupies a somewhat dead space, airflow-wise. We may have to re-evaluate cooling for when we go do longer stints, and certainly any more horsepower. On curvier tracks we may have even higher temps. I wouldn't mind to see temps 20 deg F lower. The problem I see with an aftermarket cover would be any additional depth to the cover. There's about 5/8" between the depth of the existing cover and the panhard bar, so that's a limiting factor.
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/f...ech Info.pdf
The gear oils don't start being corrosive until 300 deg F, and the stuff we're using claims to be stable (well, more stable than whatever they chose to compare themselves with) at 300F, so I'm just going to consider that a ceiling for us.
Hello Jim,
What car is this you're referring to? We run the General Leif 142 with LDRL and it seems that ever since we added a rear swaybar, our rear tires, brakes and diff get very hot. We haven't taken temperatures but we will be looking to reduce our rear bias and maybe our rear swaybar with stiffer springs this year. We are also running a TrueTrac but we did get our hands on an aluminum cover. We are also toying with ways to get more cooling to the diff.
I drove that car once in 2011 at Sonoma. I can't believe it's still around! It rained all day Saturday and we had no wiper ARMS (let alone blades). On Sunday, the poor handling was truly revealed. It felt like a ton of toe-out and a sticking caliper (or calipers) didn't help. At that point I don't think it had been on a track recently so they may not have known what to expect. I was an arrive-and-drive with Speedycop, I think his cousin(?) owned the car at the time. Does it still have the Jaz fuel cell?We're running the old Lemons Death Cab/V8olvo/Death Metal Racing 244 with the Ford 302 in it. I think we pitted a few cars down from you guys a few races ago. We actually just stripped it down to transfer the mechanicals over to a new wagon shell that's a little less haggard. We decided the amount of stress cracking and questionable, QUESTIONABLE items on the car should be a sign to put it out to pasture.
It's also worth saying that right now, we don't have any idea what our suspension setup really looks like. We know we have a Crown Vic/Thunderbird sway bar up front (with Volvo bar ends welded on), and some kinda uncut springs. We added a stock rear swaybar when we ditched the welded diff and added spherical trailing arm bushings.
Part of the transition to the new car will involve characterizing (as well as we can) what we're running. Hopefully that'll explain why the car works as well as it does. None of my drivers report any behavior akin to what the good doctor is describing.