apachechef
Burnt Sierra Madre
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2009
- Location
- An obscure body in the SK system
1981 242 bought non running from teenage inexperienced owner
worked through K-Jet, fixed problem with FI relay, and twisted up, blocked nylon line in rubber cover from filter to distributor that had killed it.
starts easy, runs great.
on test runs, brakes were soft, and repeated pumps of pedal did not harden, and pedal would sink to floor. The car is hard to stop. I have driven dozens of 240 cars, I know what a normal car feels like.
engine off, slowly sinks to floor,
engine on, quickly sinks to floor.
inspected system.
overall car is rust free, in great shape, history of being dry Texas car.
Booster: appeared good, no sig rust or dirt, I had replaced the check valve and hose when going through engine, confirmed that valve could suck from engine side, but not from booster side.
Master: appeared new, or <1k miles fluid looked clear, and good level in front and back chambers
All hard lines: no sig corrosion, all are in great shape
Octopus: also looked new or <1k miles, but wire was disconnected
6 brake hoses: new or <1k miles, stainless with vinyl covers
Solid front rotors
Girling front calipers
new looking hardware, pads
solid rear rotors
new looking rear calipers
two valve devices over rear axle, indeterminate age, possibly original , not new.
terminal of octopus was grounded, so octopus replaced. new from IPD.
System bled per this from 240turbo.com with new DOT4
terminal no longer cont with ground.
Symptoms persist.
Hooked new lines to new master from IPD, bent lines back into reservoir, bench bled with short pumps until bubbles went away. installed, bled system.
Symptoms persist.
checked out front calipers.
RIGHT: mismatched dimples, removed, tested, proves to be mis-assembled.
LEFT: one dimple
new calipers from rockauto bench tested. Both are correctly assembled.
upper brake line connects to upper bleeder.
lower brake line connects to both lower bleeders
Octopus checked before installing, all lines are correctly routed according to image above.
after bleeding:
Symptoms persist.
Bled again
Large zip ties hold reservoir to master.
Ass of car is very high, as if parked facing down a STEEP hill
Motive Power bleeder holding two quarts of DOT4
15psi, topping up pressure each step
little grease around base of bleeder, clear vinyl hose going to waste bottle.
Bled in order as above, tapping calipers and the rear above axle device during rear caliper bleeding.
bleeders opened enough to have brisk flow of fluid, no bubbles.
A LOT of fluid run from each bleeder.
Symptoms persist.
Firewood and kindling stacked under car.
Light it or try something else?
worked through K-Jet, fixed problem with FI relay, and twisted up, blocked nylon line in rubber cover from filter to distributor that had killed it.
starts easy, runs great.
on test runs, brakes were soft, and repeated pumps of pedal did not harden, and pedal would sink to floor. The car is hard to stop. I have driven dozens of 240 cars, I know what a normal car feels like.
engine off, slowly sinks to floor,
engine on, quickly sinks to floor.
inspected system.
overall car is rust free, in great shape, history of being dry Texas car.
Booster: appeared good, no sig rust or dirt, I had replaced the check valve and hose when going through engine, confirmed that valve could suck from engine side, but not from booster side.
Master: appeared new, or <1k miles fluid looked clear, and good level in front and back chambers
All hard lines: no sig corrosion, all are in great shape
Octopus: also looked new or <1k miles, but wire was disconnected
6 brake hoses: new or <1k miles, stainless with vinyl covers
Solid front rotors
Girling front calipers
new looking hardware, pads
solid rear rotors
new looking rear calipers
two valve devices over rear axle, indeterminate age, possibly original , not new.
terminal of octopus was grounded, so octopus replaced. new from IPD.
System bled per this from 240turbo.com with new DOT4
terminal no longer cont with ground.
Symptoms persist.
Hooked new lines to new master from IPD, bent lines back into reservoir, bench bled with short pumps until bubbles went away. installed, bled system.
Symptoms persist.
checked out front calipers.
RIGHT: mismatched dimples, removed, tested, proves to be mis-assembled.
LEFT: one dimple
new calipers from rockauto bench tested. Both are correctly assembled.
upper brake line connects to upper bleeder.
lower brake line connects to both lower bleeders
Octopus checked before installing, all lines are correctly routed according to image above.
after bleeding:
Symptoms persist.
Bled again
Large zip ties hold reservoir to master.
Ass of car is very high, as if parked facing down a STEEP hill
Motive Power bleeder holding two quarts of DOT4
15psi, topping up pressure each step
little grease around base of bleeder, clear vinyl hose going to waste bottle.
Bled in order as above, tapping calipers and the rear above axle device during rear caliper bleeding.
bleeders opened enough to have brisk flow of fluid, no bubbles.
A LOT of fluid run from each bleeder.
Symptoms persist.
Firewood and kindling stacked under car.
Light it or try something else?
Last edited: