Wasted spark help no start

244 1993
This is a Frankenstein project
Ford 3g 130amps alternator and wiring has been made, Corvette radiator and efans, electric power steering pump lots of other things done like head light conversion to 7inch rounds from jeep cadillac cts 2006 injectors, land rover/kia coil pack, miata igniter, all the wiring for the bushka wasted spark is good, the wiring is 4 gauge for the alternator to the starter and battery also grounds are 6 gauge if any of that matters

I had a 561 ecu on it since I bought it then had to ground my fuel pump relay on the blue wire, after couple of months on jacks due to refreshing and adding the accumulator mod to the AW72L, dropped the car, started and used for 2 days, then the ground on the fuel pump relay came loose and died in the highway, checked the grounds, on the ground for the injectors saw it was breaking changed it, but now they were not firing, made the ground better injectors were firing but engine had no spark, got a 946 ecu, now don't have to ground the fuel pump relay but still no spark, already sent for the coil pack and igniter just in case, any thoughts?

If there aren't any wiring issues. I'd suggest an engine speed sensor fail or the EZK box may have failed.

dl242gt said:

If there aren't any wiring issues. I'd suggest an engine speed sensor fail or the EZK box may have failed.

Click to expand...

Finally found the root of it,it was a combination of the coil pack plug was like millimeters unplugged inside the wires, and the battery cable lugs that I got were creating resistance on the ground, now I have a problem with the brake booster grommet and check valve every time I accelerate it rips it out of the brake booster letting in air and creating a vaccum leak, both are new the valve and the grommet, what can I do to make it keep still inside?

dl242gt said:

If there aren't any wiring issues. I'd suggest an engine speed sensor fail or the EZK box may have failed.

Click to expand...

Finally found the root of it,it was a combination of the coil pack plug was like millimeters unplugged inside the wires, and the battery cable lugs that I got were creating resistance on the ground, now I have a problem with the brake booster grommet and check valve every time I accelerate it rips it out of the brake booster letting in air and creating a vaccum leak, both are new the valve and the grommet, what can I do to make it keep still inside?

Good find! The brake booster hose is supposed to come out of the booster and wrap around and under the master cylinder. Then it goes to the intake manifold port. That give the hose plenty of slack so when the engine moves a bit it won't pull on the hose. I'd also consider engine mounts if it's moving around enough to pull things apart. I once had a coil wire that was just a bit too short. Every time I got hard on the gas it would pull the distributor cap off the distributor. That broke the rotor. Bad engine mounts and a slightly longer coil wire took care of that.