Correct Anti-seize for stainless Exhaust manifold studs

[IansPlatinum]

I am having trouble finding my answer on here or the rest of the internet.

Folks, those who have installed stainless exhaust manifold studs, what anti-seize did you use on the stud going into the head?

I have Permatex "aluminum" (silver color, supposedly contains aluminum, graphite & maybe copper?) anti seize on hand.

Should I be using something different, or just send it with the aluminum stuff?

EDIT: please move, accidentally posted to wrong subforum

[woodenpudden]

Any is better than none, but copper anti-seize can withstand slightly higher temperatures.

[culberro]

The solid copper or solid graphite paste is what you want.
The gray is just for getting all over your clothes and tools.

[Stiggy Pop]

I use copper on really hot stuff.

[PCH]

Nickel anti-seize is for high temp applications.

[IansPlatinum]

Originally Posted by PCH

Nickel anti-seize is for high temp applications.

I read that that's the good stuff. They don't have it in any stores nearby though. Maybe I can order on amazon.

I'll probably also go see if autozone has some copper antiseize

[carver]

I'd go for Loctite 77124 with stainless especially with the aluminum head.

[142 guy]

If you go to the Permatex website

https://www.permatex.com/product-cat...ts-anti-seize/

and click on the particular product, you will see a tech documents tab. Open the TDS document and it will provide you with application information including temperature ratings. Permatex's application info for the nickel version suggest use primarily on exhaust stuff.

[kyote]

I'd suggest copper anti seize, but I would not suggest stainless exhaust hardware.
Maybe if we lived in Michigan, but here in TX I'm thinking the risk vs reward isn't there.

[PCH]

Originally Posted by IansPlatinum

I read that that's the good stuff. They don't have it in any stores nearby though. Maybe I can order on amazon.

I'll probably also go see if autozone has some copper antiseize

I believe I bought mine from Autozone and they had it on the shelf. You can ask if they can get it from warehouse.

[IansPlatinum]

Originally Posted by kyote

I'd suggest copper anti seize, but I would not suggest stainless exhaust hardware.
Maybe if we lived in Michigan, but here in TX I'm thinking the risk vs reward isn't there.

I already removed the originals, and the stainless replacements are already here

The nuts are the copper ones FCP sells. aluminum & stainless corrode, but not in a catastrophic way. We do 1000hr salt fog testing on stuff at my work, frequently containing junctions of aluminum & stainless (5052 & 316 specifically). I don't think it has ever caused an issue in our application, which is sensitive RF equipment & will detect if advanced corrosion is present because it'll induce PIM.

And maybe this is one of those experience things where you'll end up being right, but I think the consequence of failure in this scenario is low.

Also the car doesn't just drive in TX

[IansPlatinum]

Originally Posted by carver

I'd go for Loctite 77124 with stainless especially with the aluminum head.

Amazon's got this on prime 1-day shipping, so I think that's gonna be the way to go

[tjanson]

What's the right way to install studs, anyhow? Is there a way to keep them from backing out when you loosen the locking nuts?

[IansPlatinum]

Hmm, now I'm curious, has anybody used this stuff before?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HW82SW..._8UWkFbW5CSX7K

High temp and non-metallic. Might have to give this one a shot.

[dl242gt]

The stud coming out with the nut is from corrosion. The stud gets torqued to a spec if you are being careful. Tight enough to stay in there but not so tight it's jammed in the threads. Probably something low like 10-15ftlb as a guess. The anti seize being on there tends to make you over torque things so be careful.

I use the Wurth copper anti seize. Great stuff and the can has lasted about 20 years. The aluminum anti seize is good to low temp applications such as shock and suspension bolts.

[IansPlatinum]

Originally Posted by tjanson

What's the right way to install studs, anyhow? Is there a way to keep them from backing out when you loosen the locking nuts?

I think if it backs out when trying to loosen the nut, it's no biggie
Just remove nut & reinstall stud. I think the two reasons for being a stud for this application are
1: hanging of manifold & gaskets
2: greater chance of removal. if it's a screw, you must loosen the junction at the aluminum head & fastener. If it's a stud, there's two chance that it'll come off without stripping or snapping

and the stud has an unthreaded section mid-way that starts to snug up on the surface of the head. I think that's how contact pressure is achieved in the stud.

I just measured my old OE volvo stud and the unthreaded portion is 7.95mm OD, threaded is 7.83mm. So I wouldn't really bank on its presence having to do with anything related to diameter.

[c1800]

Originally Posted by 142 guy

If you go to the Permatex website

https://www.permatex.com/product-cat...ts-anti-seize/

and click on the particular product, you will see a tech documents tab. Open the TDS document and it will provide you with application information including temperature ratings. Permatex's application info for the nickel version suggest use primarily on exhaust stuff.

Nickel, FTW.

[c1800]

Originally Posted by IansPlatinum

Hmm, now I'm curious, has anybody used this stuff before?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HW82SW..._8UWkFbW5CSX7K

High temp and non-metallic. Might have to give this one a shot.

Thats a 1oz Tube.

[lummert]

I've read about using Maalox to prevent galling of stainless bolt threads.

[Stiggy Pop]

Originally Posted by tjanson

What's the right way to install studs, anyhow? Is there a way to keep them from backing out when you loosen the locking nuts?

Bottom out the stud then back it out a 1/4 turn. High temp anti-seize and new nuts every time. Always works for me.

I prefer the OE volvo studs over stainless for the exhaust side.

[2turbotoys]

I always prefer the "aluminum", the copper always turns gummy and weird on plugs and exhaust stuff. It's rated for 1600 degrees vs 1800 for the copper.

https://www.permatex.com/products/lu.../?locale=en_us

[Sparkles]

Originally Posted by tjanson

What's the right way to install studs, anyhow? Is there a way to keep them from backing out when you loosen the locking nuts?

If you're using two nuts tightened together, put a spanner on each one.

[Kjets On a Plane]

[Stiggy Pop]

^ good addition, I also use the OE Volvo cupped turbo washers.

[tjanson]

Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane

Don't know if you can get the nice OE radial/toothy knurl pattern nuts for the n/a manifold to downpipe anymore. Allows a socket to fit well for easy removal, functions like a more primitive nord-lock washer in a hot spot.
Nothing else has worked quite as nicely in that spot.

Good luck.

Pegasus sells locking Metric "jet nuts" with a reduced hex that might work nicely on a NA downpipe. I haven't had any issues with non-locking nuts on those studs, though, I just tighten them "FT" and they stay tight.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=MJET