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Hackster's LSA / T56 2 door

I deal with a more severe set of ambient conditions down here (plus A/C) -- not an issue at all on mine. Who knows....

edit - 'Course, I'm not trying to get it down to 170F either -- same issue might show up if I was.
 
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M.H. Yount said:
I deal with a more severe set of ambient conditions down here (plus A/C) -- not an issue at all on mine. Who knows....

edit - 'Course, I'm not trying to get it down to 170F either -- same issue might show up if I was.
Click to expand...

Same boat. Im quite content with my stock truck thermostat.
 
[QUOTE/]springs first, then the front bar, but have them all with me at the next track day in case I want to make more changes. I also needed a little more tire pressure up front as I could feel the tires rolling over more than they should be. The extra camber should be a huge help though.

I hear ya on opening up the strut tower bar, like I have said before sometimes its a balance of aesthetics and performance for me. I still cannot believe that there are no instructions provided with any of Kaplhenke's parts as well as not a single one linked off of his website, Moreover, why doesn't the strut tower bar opening match the pattern on the top of the adjustable upper strut mount. I understand that not everyone will run them, but maybe have it as an option? I cut enough, not to mention I don't really want to send it off to have it re powdercoated.

On the engine temps, I understand thermal dynamics pretty well but this one has me a little bit confused. Its not load or speed related.

If I sit in stop and go traffic it will get up to about 211, this is in super mild temperatures like 50 degrees here in Portland as well as 95 degree weather in Vegas.

It will come down to 200 ish when I get moving. When I am on the freeway cruising at say 70 or so, with very little load on the engine 1700 rpm virtually no throttle it will run about 210 or so More accelerator or shift gears and it will drop.

Makes me think that the stat is more likely an issue than airflow. I do wonder if I am going to have to do some hood louvers to get some airflow through the engine bay. When I pop the hood though, its not really hot in there like I would think it would be.

Either way, its a next step, it either helps or it doesnt, but its the best path forward that I can think of.

Sean[/QUOTE]



I remember this issue as well, frustrating... you can't access the bolts from up top without trimming the brace. I asked about this before ordering and was assured you could. I paid for the nickel plating then ran I to the issue, then the answer was grind it open lol.
 
2fast242gt said:
[QUOTE/]springs first, then the front bar, but have them all with me at the next track day in case I want to make more changes. I also needed a little more tire pressure up front as I could feel the tires rolling over more than they should be. The extra camber should be a huge help though.

I hear ya on opening up the strut tower bar, like I have said before sometimes its a balance of aesthetics and performance for me. I still cannot believe that there are no instructions provided with any of Kaplhenke's parts as well as not a single one linked off of his website, Moreover, why doesn't the strut tower bar opening match the pattern on the top of the adjustable upper strut mount. I understand that not everyone will run them, but maybe have it as an option? I cut enough, not to mention I don't really want to send it off to have it re powdercoated.

On the engine temps, I understand thermal dynamics pretty well but this one has me a little bit confused. Its not load or speed related.

If I sit in stop and go traffic it will get up to about 211, this is in super mild temperatures like 50 degrees here in Portland as well as 95 degree weather in Vegas.

It will come down to 200 ish when I get moving. When I am on the freeway cruising at say 70 or so, with very little load on the engine 1700 rpm virtually no throttle it will run about 210 or so More accelerator or shift gears and it will drop.

Makes me think that the stat is more likely an issue than airflow. I do wonder if I am going to have to do some hood louvers to get some airflow through the engine bay. When I pop the hood though, its not really hot in there like I would think it would be.

Either way, its a next step, it either helps or it doesnt, but its the best path forward that I can think of.

Sean
Click to expand...



I remember this issue as well, frustrating... you can't access the bolts from up top without trimming the brace. I asked about this before ordering and was assured you could. I paid for the nickel plating then ran I to the issue, then the answer was grind it open lol.[/QUOTE]

I understand where Ben is coming from with his 1% comment of people running his strut tower bar and his adjustable strut mounts. However it sure would be nice if he could give people some instructions and a heads up.....Hey FYI, if you order this stuff it doesnt all just bolt together and work right out of the box......so dont get everything powder coated and painted and expect that.

quillc said:
This is why you see a lot of LS swaps running electric water pumps.
Click to expand...

I dont see a lot of LS swaps running electric water pumps I actually cannot recall seeing a singe one running an electric water pump until I researched this problem.

Not much else to do with it right now though, too many things to work on, its not overheating so we will run it and see what happens this weekend.

Got the car aligned yesterday, came back with some pretty big differences, the car tracks straight as an arrow now, stops straight too so looking forward to that. I am sitting at 2.7 degrees of camber, thinking I was probably about 1 or so before so a huge gain. We put it at 1/16" of toe out to help with turn in as much as possible.

I also gained a ton of room for tire clearance with the extra camber up front.

Bad news, I found that the rear axles have a slight amount of up and down play in them, its just a few thousandths, but its enough to get a little clunk both with a pry bar and when I jack up or lower the car. No signs of a leak or anything, I will keep an eye on it over the weekend and see what happens if anything. I am guessing its going to continue to wear on the shaft and possibly the bearing if I keep driving on it but no options as I found it about 10 minutes before loading the car up last night.

Track Night tonight in Seattle, going to hang around up there, maybe even hit up an auto cross on Saturday or Sunday if I can find one.

Sean
 
Loaded up here at noon on Friday and headed North, ran into a nasty rolled over freight truck on highway 512 between Tacoma and Puyallup that held me up for almost an hour. Got there just in time for the drivers meeting.

Got the car unloaded, warmed up and got out to grid for my run group.

Oh man did my changes help a ton. They recently did a big upgrade on the back section of this track and its so much better, real curbing that you can drive over, even carry some tires too. Took a few laps to get the hang of the new layout and get a grip on the car.

Its a big fast track if you have never been before and has a monster of a straightaway. Although I am convinced that the rear end has 4.10's instead of 3.73's in it. Either way, the understeer is just about gone now, adding the camber made a huge change on turn in and corner entry, rear spring change settled the rear of the car down a lot. I was having a blast.

Temps were staying in the 190's so a huge improvement from the last track outing.

Brakes have zero fade no matter what I did. I need to work on my 4 to 3 downshift, have hit 5th a few times on accident. Need to adjust accelerator position up a little to assist with heel toe.

15 mins into the session or so, I came through turn 2 and felt the car do something weird mid turn, I couldnt quite tell what it did but it shifted over a few inches off the line.

Then on the next straight the steering wheel was no longer straight while I was going straight.......

So into the pits to see what was going on.

FkhIkJ0h.jpg


Unfortunately it appears that my steering rack has jumped a tooth. There was a pretty good clunk in the steering when working the wheel back and forth. Once under the car I could move the rack output back and forth a good 3/8".

Bummer that it ended my fun filled weekend of car stuff waaaaay early. I had planned on track night friday, Seattle cars and coffee on Saturday and Auto Cross on Monday.

Instead I had Dinner with my nephew and his lady friend and hit the road from Seattle about 9 for my drive back to PDX.

Saturday I tore this **** apart.

IW6FczQh.jpg


Picked up a known good rack from Scott and Taylor. Very minimal play in this one.

7Bn2S8mh.jpg


New Rack in!!! Get the rack in, fill with fluid and bleed a little before sleep time.

Woke up to a nice puddle under the car, not coming from the rack. The "rebuilt" pump was leaking now. It wasnt from the high pressure line like I thought as the car had not started yet.

So here we go again.....

7trev9ch.jpg


I tried to round up a pump but with no luck this weekend. I ordered a new pump from Turn One this morning. This time it has a real rebuild on it, tested before it leaves with a new reservoir and a billet wheel so the pulley doesnt need to be pulled each time you remove it.

Bummer that I missed out on all car stuff this weekend but I did manage to get a ton of stuff done around the house. All hard surfaces got pressure washed, trip to the dump, goodwill, took care of some touchup paint on the interior of the house, installed out killer new bedroom ceiling fan, assembled a new bed for the spare room.

The wife got the best end of the 3 day weekend for sure.

I have an event on the 8th and 9th at PIR and really hope that this thing is reliable for the weekend.
 
Spent a lot of time talking with the folks at Turn One when I set up the pump arrangement in mine -- methinks they know what they're talking about.
 
Did a terrible job of taking pics.

Could not give up a perfectly good weekend with the car sitting missing parts so I got a parts store rebuilt pump and threw it on Saturday to see how things were working.

Bled it, put in Royal Purple fluid in the system this time. Drove just fine around the neighborhood so I loaded it in the trailer Saturday night and got my **** ready to go.

7kivgmHh.jpg


wmRYcMdh.jpg


Went to McMinnville to run autocross with the BCA club. Great club, really good event.

Rest, Run, Work schedule. 70 cars in total, Raw numbers I am mid pack at 35.

Got some good testing in. Steering did the same thing.....its not the rack, believe it to be lower control arm bushings moving around under the car so I will address that this week.

Front brakes are too hot, I am locking up the front brakes on corner entry no matter what I do......I need to learn to be a better driver.

Temps were running right about 200 sitting around. We got 8 runs in less than a 2 hour run time so we were pretty fast moving. I was happy with these temps and didnt think I had anything to worry about. Temps were in the high 80's, just under 90 and we were in the sun from 7 am to 4 pm when I left.

CcLgEO2h.jpg


I definitely need to work on the driver more. I feel I am overdriving the car and need to work on smooth before I work on fast. That is a very tough balance and I am still very new to the car as well as autocrossing. I know that there is more in me, I feel like I need some instructor time to help me pick up the pace.

Hope I am able to get the car dialed in before next weekends SCCA Time Trials.

Sean
 
As the saying goes - first tighten the nut behind the wheel. I’ve been to 5 schools over the decades - learn something new every time. Definition of “straightaway”?
 
The Evergreen museum! That place is cool. They should let you autox on the wing of the Spruce Goose...

Having a seasoned instructor ride along with you a few times should do wonders for technique and confidence. Do you plan on doing any open trackdays with the car? I'd give the same advice for that as well.
 
That was a fun event yesterday. I’m glad you made it out there. WMC will be running there on the 30th of this month. It looked to me like you were doing a good job of driving the car. My suggestion would be to do a course walk with someone that drives a RWD high powered car like yours. It’s all in the set up for each turn and planning ahead. You are really driving at least two turns ahead of the turn that you are in when driving correctly.

http://www.wmclub.org/
 
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