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Joined the Beige Club - '78 242DL

Cameron said:
Oh also, I tested out the brightness of the LED conversion on the R-Sport cluster with all the lights turned off in the garage. Even with the PWM unit dialed all the way down it is SO much brighter and radder than stock. If I have not said it before, Roger does excellent work on this stuff. Buy a cluster from him.
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Cameron, regarding your exterior led's, what was your solution to the light bulb integrity sensor? Thanks

Mark Johnson
 
Slacking on it the last couple weeks. Been busy with other stuff and building different stuff in the garage not car related.

I did come to the realization though that I kinda finished it without realizing it :lol: I was thinking I had a couple more things left but turns out I don't. All wiring is done, all fuel lines are tightened down, it's filled with fluids, etc. Guess it's time to start it, but I think I'll wait for a break in the cold, rainy weather
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Cameron said:
Slacking on it the last couple weeks. Been busy with other stuff and building different stuff in the garage not car related.

I did come to the realization though that I kinda finished it without realizing it :lol: I was thinking I had a couple more things left but turns out I don't. All wiring is done, all fuel lines are tightened down, it's filled with fluids, etc. Guess it's time to start it, but I think I'll wait for a break in the cold, rainy weather
k.gif
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AKA today!? its not suppose to rain all day! that's awesome, i cant wait to see this car. Very well built and simple (for now).
 
Had some time to kill this morning and some motivation to move forward on the car.

Just for fun, I disconnected all the injector leads and put a noid light on one of them and left everything else all connected. I figured, who knows, maybe it'll all just work the first time. Then cranked it with the key. Cranks slow and voltage is dropping to 9v or so under crank so I need to get a charger on the battery. Doesn't really surprise me though since that battery has just been sitting for months and only shows 12v across the terminals.

No flash from the noid light under crank, but the main LH relay that powers up the LH ECU (and eventually the pumps too when they get the signal) does click on as it should. Gave it another crank so I could watch the gauges more closely and saw oil pressure gauge working which is nice, but nothing from the tach. Didn't hear the fuel pumps kick on either. Since 2.2 won't turn on the pumps or fire injector signal without ignition system input and with the tach doing nothing that means something is up with the ignition system.

Busted out the Bentley since my memory on the ignition system stuff is kinda crusty. Checked continuity between ground pin on ignition computer harness and ground and it checks out. Turned key on and checked for voltage between the power pin from the harness and it does show voltage (something like .25v). Ignition coil ohms out within spec. Then checked for voltage with key on from pin a to the hall sender/distributor connector and it does show voltage (also around .25v) so hall sender should have power.

Since all those things checked out, I'm guessing it's an issue at the ignition box -- either the actual box or more likely the harness connector where it plugs into the box since that seems to historically be a problem on cars that use this ignition system. Guess I need to grab some of those inserty-doodad thingies for the connector. I'm told Volvo addressed the harness connector issue with those insert things so that is something easy to try.

Anyone know of a full list of compatible ignition box/ECU part numbers for LH 2.2? The box I have in there now I bought used. I didn't pull it from a car myself so I don't know out of what year 240 it was pulled. Part number on the sticker on it is 1346107.
 
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