EZ116K daughterboard assembly and installation guide

[blabla]

EZ116K daughterboard assembly and installation guide

So, now you've got yourself one of those daughterboard kits we should head on to the last chapter of the “Make your EZK chippable” story; Assembly and installation of the daughterboard.

You don't need any exceptional skills to be able to assemble and install this board, but some experience with soldering electronics wont hurt. Still; If you feel you aren't up to the task, just ask someone else to assemble it for you. Especially when a backup EZK isn't available.

Tools needed (just to be complete)

Low power soldering iron. So leave that 250W iron in the shed.
Flux cored solder. Duh...
Small cutting pliers

The kit should contain the following components



28 Pins DIL IC Socket (Eprom)
20 Pins DIP IC Socket

20 Pins board header
3 Pins jumper socket

74HC573 IC
2x 1uF MKT Capacitor

4k7 Resistor

Jumper

Small piece of desoldering braid.

Daughterboard assembly

Although the assembly of the board itself is very straightforward, you still want to take note of the following hints;

IC (Sockets)

1.Note the orientation of the sockets on the board!
2.Don't put the IC nor Eprom in their sockets at this point!

Capacitors and resistor

1.The capacitors are of the bipolar type. This means you can put them on the board anyway you want.

Headers

1.Don't place the 20 pin header on the board. The header will be mounted on the EZK first!

Daughterboard installation

To install the daughterboard you only have to remove EZK's the top lit.

You may notice the holes needed for the daughterboard header are filled with solder. Before the header can be mounted, the desoldering braid should be used to remove the solder.



Desoldering should be done from the backside of the PCB. As you can see on the pics; the tracks on the top side leading to the holes are very fragile and can easily separate from the PCB holes when disturbed.



Once the holes are clear of solder the header can be mounted. Long pin side goes to the EZK.



Now the daughterboard can be mounted on the header. Take notice of the spacing between the IC on the EZK and the daughterboard!



When ready, the small IC can be put in its socket. Don't put in the Eprom!
Set the jumper to the 2-3 position.



Testing

Put the EZK back in your car and try to start the engine. The engine should NOT start! You know your car; Don't crank the engine longer than absolutely necessary. You may flood the engine!

In case you've just changed the oil or whatever, you could disconnect the injectors and just check for spark.

With this test you make sure the EZK isn't using its build in software anymore.

When the EZK passes this test you should disconnect it and put in the Eprom. Reconnect the EZK and try to start the car. Now the engine should fire up normally!

Congratulations! You've just made your EZK chippable!

I am going to link to this article from my FAQ thread.

Great job Martijn!

[volvo78244]

Great write-up Martijn! Now it feels like even I can do it

Originally Posted by blabla

Put the EZK back in your car and try to start the engine. The engine should NOT start!

That was were we first missed it

[J2_]

Now just wait for the boards & stuff ??

[crazy0000]

I'm up for soldering stuff for people if they want(I enjoy it haha), just pay for mail each way.

Though I'm sure everyone who has ordered a board knows how to solder... I should have ordered some!

[Garfield]

Originally Posted by blabla

Put the EZK back in your car and try to start the engine. The engine should NOT start!

I just finished soldering the daughterboard and I have one question:
What if it does start? Where did I go wrong then?

-I followed the above instructions.
-I didn't even buy the eprom yet, let alone put it in.
-It starts with the jumper on position 1-2
-It starts with the jumper on position 2-3
-It starts without the jumper.
-It starts without the IC

The numbers on the unit are identical to the ones on the unit in your pictures.
I don't see any mistakes with the soldering, altough it's not as nice as the soldering in the example.

It seems to me it's not using the daughterboard at all.

Again, where did I go wrong?

[Garfield]

Okay, Blabla sent me a PM yesterday evening (thanks for the quick reply) thinking the connections on the EZK might have come loose. So I made a map of all connections from the Siemens chip on the EZK to the EPROM en the IC connections on the daughterboard. Then I measured the resistance on the connections one by one. They all worked.
About that time it occurred to me that it is quite unusual to be so frustrated because your car starts when you turn the key. I gave up and went to bed.

Today I tried again but this time I also tested the connections that only connect different pins on the daughterboard itself. And there it was: a bad connection on one of the capacitors. This pin is very close another one and I had been to careful not to connect them to each other. Now I noticed the board connected them anyway, so being careful wasn't necessary. Just to be safe I re-soldered a couple of other connections too, although they seemed fine, and then I tried again. I have never been so relieved that my car didn't start.
Then I changed the jumper to position 1-2, and it started up fine.

When I have the time (which is not now) I’ll see if I can make a digital version of the map I made and post it here, in case someone else has a similar problem.

[blabla]

Nice! I´m glad you got it working. Yeah, i know you can get strange looks from people when they see someone getting more and more frustrated every time the car starts.

I will add all the hints i gave you to some kind of troubleshooting section later so other can benefit from it as well. I would be happy to include your pin map when its done.

[DNAsEqUeNcE]

No start!


THe chip is actually flipped around on the actual install..


All my connections are pretty solid..

Whats the deal?

[blabla]

I found out that it was necessary on a few boards to solder the small 'via' holes that link both sides. Normally its not needed to solder these holes, but i have the feeling "made in china" has something to do with this

[The Full Banana]

Originally Posted by blabla

I found out that it was necessary on a few boards to solder the small 'via' holes that link both sides. Normally its not needed to solder these holes, but i have the feeling "made in china" has something to do with this

ooo perhaps this is why mine didn't start this weekend when installed too.... I'll have to check that out.

[DNAsEqUeNcE]

Do explain with pics?

Please?

[Homer]

See the holes that are lacking components on the daughterboard? Those are called "via"s they connect traces to the other side of the board. Solder the inside of the via. Also make sure the vias on the EZK are connecting. Do a continuity test between the chip end of the trace on the ezk and the header on the daughterboard.

[DNAsEqUeNcE]

:sigh:

Okay, so I went and soldered up all of the little holes. No change! Starts only in pin 1-2, won't start with pin 2-3!

[Homer]

Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE

:sigh:

Okay, so I went and soldered up all of the little holes. No change! Starts only in pin 1-2, won't start with pin 2-3!

Did you do a continuity check on the ezk traces? There is a good chance you burned a trace up. They are super easy to burn

[DNAsEqUeNcE]

which traces specifically? Have a pic?

AIM or something?

[The Full Banana]

Could you post a pic showing what the 'via' holes are that need to be soldered up? I'm a little confused.

[blabla]

small update. Had some problems getting the db working on this -146 ezk. After some investigation it turned out one of the traces leading from the cpu to the db had split in two. It was very hard to notice with the naked eye because of the pcb coating, but i discovered it after debugging the connections with a multimeter.

[Homer]

Baleted

[yamahapro]

This will work on any ezk? Is it still available?

[Freeman4]

The EZ116K has two pins (pin 18 and 19) called 'selector pins'. By grounding these pins you will be able to modify the statical ignition timing - this means, that you will get a modified timing on part load. At cranking and full load at higher rpm's the timing will switch back automatically to stock values. Also it's not possible to switch the timing just in time - this means, the timing must be set before cranking.