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Muellers '78 242 project, warning, it's ugly right now :)

I used the mustang spindle and strut, my bump steer spacers were a little ridiculous because I moved my steering rack down when I did the ls swap. The chrysler style thread in ball joint fits the mustang spindle perfectly and made it easy to make some new ball joint adapters using some weld rings from speedway motors. I did it for the sole purpose of a very affordable adjustable strut, but it is a nice upgrade for a ford 8.8 rear swapped car, makes the wheel a bolt pattern situation a little more straight forward. A nice sealed wheel bearing and endless brake upgrades are a nice plus too.

Mike, nice to see you back at it!




 
Finally got off my lazy @$$ and worked on the car this weekend.

Started out with a chunk like on the bottom. The round piece I bought, it will be pressed into the bracket.

A few more pictures to show that not a 100% bolt on modification, at least I don't think so, but I have been known to do things the hard way. Anyway, the plate you see bolted to the spindle places the spindle exactly in space where it would be placed if a wheel was bolted to it. My tires are 24" tall, so this puts the axle at 12" above the ground.
Doing this in my driveway sucks so I will be doing a temp upper mounting solution until I can move the car into my garage with a nice flat floor. I "think" that is where the upper mount will be based on using a angle protractor and my calibrated eyeballs. I have to look at the caster and camber numbers again, but that is close.

Not sure if upper mount strut assembly will be 100% bolt on or if I will weld a plate and then build up something with a bearing and bolt that to the welded plate. Funny thing is when I cut the upper shock mounts yesterday with a jigsaw the wife was washing her car and saw me doing this and never once questioned me why I was putting a big holes in the car. :)

The tie rods will need a custom solution as well. Stock stuff if too short and wrong taper.
 

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A few more pics
 

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No idea what this bracket is originally for or from, but hopefully with a few mods i can use it to mount my alternator. Currently it is too narrow between the bushing rings for the alternator to fit so I am opening it up some.
 

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No idea what this bracket is originally for or from, but hopefully with a few mods i can use it to mount my alternator. Currently it is too narrow between the bushing rings for the alternator to fit so I am opening it up some.

Non ac power steering pump bracket
 
I'm pretty sure the warning on the strut housing is just a suggestion :)

Cutting down the Ford struts and gutting them to install Saab inserts inside, for now stock valving until I get around to getting some Bilstiens revalved.
 

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So those are not a gas sealed strut? It's a housing with an insert that is not removeable? I'm confused as always. :oops:
 
So those are not a gas sealed strut? It's a housing with an insert that is not removeable? I'm confused as always. :oops:

They are indeed gas sealed struts...or they used to be :)

I removed the "guts" and will make some spacers to locate the inserts inside, I am using inserts that would fit the stock type 240 strut housings.

I could weld a cap to hold them inside or more than likely I will make something that can be screwed on and off.
 
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I see youre making progress!
 
Has it really been almost 5 years since I've worked on the 242?

Guess so, other projects and dealing with health issues put the Volvo on the back burner. It was almost put up for sale a few times.

Anyway, I spent a full day here at home just trying to find all the parts I had scattered around my side yards. The motor has been sitting in a covered storage unit as well as the rebuilt T5 transmission.

I screwed up and bought (and rebuilt) a World Class T5 from a Ford Super Coupe, the turbo 4 banger Thunderbird.

So I had to modify the stock Volvo automatic crankshaft pilot bushing since the V8 bearing would not work. The pilot bearing on the left is the correct unit if using the V8 gearbox with larger diameter input shaft.

The plan is to finish up the engine and transmission in the garage while I work on other parts of the car.
 

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Slowly gathering parts. I bought some sound dampening material off of Amazon, turns out it came from the Russian Federation which I think is the 1st time I have ever bought anything from there.

New carpet set hope it fits without too much drama.

For the motor a new to me turbo showed up today.
A Garrett MGT2256S which I have no idea if anyone is as stupid as me to try and run this on my BF230+T.

Made some bushings for the brake and clutch pedal, local dealership said NLA and online aftermarket is $18 a pop. I made these from PEEK material that I?ve had for about 15 years doing nothing.

Also made a plate to weld to my transmission cross member for the T5 transmission.
 

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I picked up a Ford 8.8 over the weekend.....actually picked up 2 of them after the 1st turned into a cluster F and sent me to the ER to get broken metal out of my leg(it is still there Dr says he could do more damage removing it)

So on Saturday I get the dirty drum brake Mustang 8.8 with 5 lug. I knew it was a welded diff hence the $100 purchase price. As can be seen in the pic I tried a cutoff wheel with no luck, that center pin is not coming out right now. I proceeded to hammer on it to loosen one side of the spider gear that was loose. In the process a chunk of diff went 10mm deep into my lower leg. Lots of blood for a small piece the size of a rice grain.

The second 8.8 is from a Ford Explorer, $275 as you see it laying on the ground. 3.73 limited slip. All I had to do was give the guy the money and he did most of the work putting it into the back of my Model Y.

Instead of cutting out a section and welding the longer tube I am going to attempt to do what Captain Bondo did and press out the tube. I have been watching how the Jeep and off road guys do it.
 

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