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Old 03-11-2007, 05:49 PM   #1
jungledorifuto
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Default Extended Wheel Studs for 200 series

I've just picked up a set of 17x9 cobra R wheels in 5x108, and am having some fitment issues. the wheels need a good 1/2 all around. they rub the strut tube up front, and the rear trailing arm thing in the back. aswell as the inner fender well on the rear. to clear all fo this. My first thought was for some extended wheel studs and soem slap on spacers. second thought was to have a company i know make some bolt on spacers for 120 US dollars. and suggestions fellas? btw i had to buy the wheels for the 5.0 soon to match. it would be awesome if someone could point me in the direction of some extended wheel studs or better yet 5x108 bolt on spacers pppllleeassee
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Old 03-11-2007, 05:51 PM   #2
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i have access to a fender roller a torch which is a must obviously, also the wheels will have a 225/45 in the back and a 215/50 or 45 in the front. that is a 245/45 mounted in the pic

Last edited by jungledorifuto; 04-20-2008 at 05:41 PM..
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Old 03-11-2007, 06:24 PM   #3
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Hello Jungledorifuto,

In the way of extended studs you have a couple options,

You could get some generic 3" studs and drill your hubs so the spline sizing is correct or I am currently have a run of made to fit 3" wheel studs w/ quickstart for the 240.
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:26 PM   #4
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I can help you with spacers/adapters but they won't be $120...

However, they will fit right...
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Old 03-11-2007, 09:40 PM   #5
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pm me with some details, aswell as shipping prices to 46240. after reading for a few i saq that some are using a certain arp stud and WELDING them to the back of the hub. wouldn't this cause minor balance issues when the wheels are turning? no weld is the same but i guess tack welds wont change the weight differences too much
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Old 03-11-2007, 09:41 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
Hello Jungledorifuto,

In the way of extended studs you have a couple options,

You could get some generic 3" studs and drill your hubs so the spline sizing is correct or I am currently have a run of made to fit 3" wheel studs w/ quickstart for the 240.
quickstart?
i would be very interested in made to fit wheel studs
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Old 03-11-2007, 10:36 PM   #7
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What is the wheel offset?
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Old 03-11-2007, 10:59 PM   #8
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sadly i'm not exactly sure, but it def seems less than +20
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:15 PM   #9
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sadly i'm not exactly sure, but it def seems less than +20
Better figure out what it is, then. 9" wheels don't fit easily. With a 225 width tire, it won't be easy to fit them on the rear w/o pulling the fenders. I think it's possible, but I don't know of anyone who has put 9" on the rear with fender lip work only. You'll need to roll the lip flat, but the lip rolling tool doesn't work very well because the lip is two panels folded together and spot welded. Look closely at the lip and you should see shallow dimples where there are welds. I'd suggest trimming off about half the lip, then folding it flat with liberal use of a large hammer.

I'm going to estimate that 5.5" backspacing is the minimum you will need, which on a 9" wheel is ~12mm offset. It may need to be even higher to move the wheel in more so it will clear the fender on the front side. I just can't be sure if 5.75" would even fit. I know that 8" ET10 will fit with trimmed lips. 9" ET12 will have 11mm more wheel on the front side of the hub, but a 225 tire might stretch enough to clear a lip that is rolled flat (instead of just trimmed). With a 9" rear wheel, there isn't the luxury of a 10-15mm range in offset like with a 7-8" wheel. It will have to be nearly perfect, and that might be tough.

Measure the backspacing of find out the offset and I can try to give a better assessment of the situation. The front shouldn't be as big of a hassle. Space the wheel out just enough so it doesn't hit the strut tube and run a 225...it will work.
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Old 03-12-2007, 08:52 PM   #10
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well with the rear, i've already planned to roll/flare the rear fenders a bit (blowtorch, and experienced fender rolling skill) i was planning on a 25mm spacer all around, i've read about the GIL racing spacers and they seem like the best option so far. i've already test fit the wheels front and rear, took measurments, used make shift 3/4 inch spacers in the rear and minus the stock fender lip had no clearance issues. i've squeezed big wheels into tight places ;)

spent a good 1/2 hour of rolling on those rears to fit the 18x9.5 +17
i'll measure the backspacing tonight
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Old 03-12-2007, 08:55 PM   #11
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Front airdam needs moar attachment.
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:39 PM   #12
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he likes to dirt drop the front end, dunno why
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:13 PM   #13
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SX fenders are weak. As you surely know, the fender LIP roller will roll the FENDERS out on the SX. I don't exactly know why, whether it's just one layer, or it's just thin metal, or a combination.

If you want to go nuts on the Volvo 240 and you don't mind a little grunt work, drill & split all the spot welds on the fender lip. Then slice through the spare tire well, along the bottom of the quarter panel...from mudflap to rear bumper. Then snip away any remaining connective material (not much, if any) and the quarter panel should be free to be pulled (pushed) out. Use a 240 scissor jack inside the trunk, down in the spare tire well to push the panel out. Use a port-a-power tool or some sort of scissor or bottle jack to push the panel out at the top. Then fold in the outer lip so it's flat and weld the lip to the inner panel (I like to cut off the entire fender lip from the inner panel first). Once there are 4-5 points along the top of the arch that are spot welded, release the jack(s) and the panel should hold it's shape along the top. If you need more room at the rear of the arch, push it out with the jack and weld in a brace. They shouldn't be needed though, if you get some welds along the lip.

Here's our test subject...a bit rusty, made it easier. Tire is a 275/45/16 Hoosier A3S03...roughly 11" section width. No wheel, just making sure we could actually get that much tire under the fender.


255/40/17, 9.5" ET0. When measured at the point on the arch where it goes from green primer to blue paint, it's a ~1.5" pull. The leading edge of the arch isn't pulled at all.


This is my car with 265/45/16 on 9.5" ET3 rear and 245/45/16 on 9.5" ET-13 front. No rub anywhere. The rear is pretty tight along the fender lip, but I could fit a wider tire at lower offset. The front has plenty of room for more tire. I bent out the fender lip and shaped it into a single flare, then skimmed thin layers of bondo over the roughly hammered panel, sanded it smooth, and painted.
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:43 AM   #14
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i have access to a fender roller a torch which is a must obviously, also the wheels will have a 225/45 in the back and a 215/50 or 45 in the front. that is a 245/45 mounted in the pic
A 215 on a 9" wheel (that 245 in the pic is to narrow for the wheel.) Why not just use a 7" wheel, bolt it on and be done? Unless you just really enjoy all of the body work.
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Old 03-13-2007, 05:08 PM   #15
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no body work will be done on mine for the fronts to fit, i might just remove the inner fender guards. i have a plan that will make rolling/flaring the rears much easier to get the 9's to fit. i plan to order through gil racing.
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Old 03-14-2007, 12:41 AM   #16
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Default Why 215's on a 9" wheel???

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no body work will be done on mine for the fronts to fit, i might just remove the inner fender guards. i have a plan that will make rolling/flaring the rears much easier to get the 9's to fit. i plan to order through gil racing.
I still wonder why you are going to all of this trouble just to use a tire that is WAY to narrow for the rim you want to use? I just happened to be at Tirerack.com and looked up a 215 R-DOT tire and the MAX rim width was 8.5" Tires are very complex and I think we should follow what the tire engineers say.
You may be doing something unsafe and opening yourself up to a lawsuit it the tire fails and you kill someone.
Just something to think about.
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Old 03-14-2007, 01:03 AM   #17
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i plan to order through gil racing.
they don't exist. alvaro gil probably still exists, but I haven't heard from him in a couple of years and he doesn't sell adapters anymore. there are plenty of sources for custom adapters, though.
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Old 03-14-2007, 01:53 AM   #18
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i have access to a fender roller a torch which is a must obviously, also the wheels will have a 225/45 in the back and a 215/50 or 45 in the front. that is a 245/45 mounted in the pic
WHAT???

Why go thru the work involved and run tires that ought to be on 7's or 8's??
I guess if you like the lowrider truck look

Not mounted yet (currently no axles on the car)
17x8 Cobra R rims with 245/40/17's (35mm spacer for the rear, 25mm for the front)
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:19 AM   #19
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Not mounted yet (currently no axles on the car)
17x8 Cobra R rims with 245/40/17's (35mm spacer for the rear, 25mm for the front)
/wheel1.jpg
how bad do (will) they rub?
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:46 AM   #20
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a 215/45 is the tire size i'm using in the front either way, i like the dorifuto stretch
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Old 03-14-2007, 10:23 AM   #21
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how bad do (will) they rub?
not sure yet...no biggie if I have to the fenders a bit ? The car is far from being in perfect shape...
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Old 03-14-2007, 11:29 AM   #22
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dorifuto
You know it's Dorifto, right? No "U".

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Old 03-14-2007, 12:54 PM   #23
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dorifuto.net

back on topic please, i am inquiring about either extended wheel studs or bolt on spacers. i am not concerned with how you guys feel about what tire i am running in the front. next friday i'll be ordering the spacer set through 245gti, not gil racing my bad on the typo..
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:23 PM   #24
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next friday i'll be ordering the spacer set through 245gti, not gil racing my bad on the typo..
How did you decide on what thickness of adapter to buy? Did you figure out the backspacing or offset?
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Old 03-14-2007, 04:50 PM   #25
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i've used washers up front as make shift spacers to make sure i'll have clearance, the lugs only went on 1 1/2 turn, hence why i need spacer. the rears will need at least 30mm spacers. i've measured the back spacing it looks to be right at 6&1/4" all around.
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