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Old 10-01-2020, 10:42 PM   #1
BeaverMeat
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Default While I have the diff apart... bearings?

... Iím installing a TrueTrack and changing the gear set on my 1030 axel. What else should I replace while itís apart?

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Old 10-02-2020, 10:41 AM   #2
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Pinion seal for sure since you'll have that out to change the gearset.
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Old 10-02-2020, 10:46 AM   #3
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I'm not expert even as little on rear axles, but I have a vague recollection of a crush sleeve being used stock, and maybe you should replace that with something else if you were going to try to run a lot more power through it?

Maybe someone who knows more can correct me or fill in with better info.
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Old 10-02-2020, 07:43 PM   #4
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A crush sleeve can only be used once. The better way to go is with a solid spacer and shims, this takes time to set up the proper preload, measured in inch/pounds. Doing a diff does take skill and the proper tools. Getting the right mesh with the R&Pinion the right back lash on the ring gear, the preload etc. Good luck.
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Old 10-03-2020, 07:05 AM   #5
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Carrier bearings. They are really tough to remove without the right tools and are probably worn. Not worn out, but a shame to re-use.
Remove the bearings by grinding off material till they crack, then take the shims and re-use them om the correct side again.
Pro-tip: The truetrack is thick enough in diameter that the ring gear won't fit over it when you weld/attach a tone ring to the truetrack housing.

Sometimes the cover us rusted through. Maybe grab a alu cover in the junkyard, they also add some oil capacity, have a filter (later ones) and cool better.
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Old 10-04-2020, 01:40 PM   #6
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Don’t need to worry about the tone ring
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Old 10-04-2020, 04:22 PM   #7
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So, about the aluminum cover...they put them on the 1030? What cars had them?
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Old 10-04-2020, 09:54 PM   #8
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... Iím installing a TrueTrack and changing the gear set on my 1030 axel. What else should I replace while itís apart?
Everything
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Old 10-05-2020, 02:00 PM   #9
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So, about the aluminum cover...they put them on the 1030? What cars had them?
Don't know when exactly.
Removed an early alu cover from a wrecked German 745 with manual/B230F from 1989.5.
My 240, built mid 1990, had the steel cover.
I think the 740/940 got the alu covers first and by 1992 every model had them.
Pulled the cover with filter from a 1994 940.

Those cars all have the 1031. But since the gasket is the same between 1030 and 1031 it should fit on the 1030. I've read some questions about the sensor and tone ring but as far as I know they are compatible. Sensor works excellent on my 240.
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Old 10-05-2020, 03:02 PM   #10
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There are two styles of sensor - one is retained with a locking ring and one is retained with a small bolt. I am not sure if they are interchangable when swapped in the covers. The pulse train is generated by the tone wheel, not the sensor, but spacing may be wrong.
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Old 11-12-2020, 01:08 AM   #11
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revisiting this thread...

Finally got around to ripping it apart. Renting tools is getting tiresome.

I need to replace the bearings in the Diff... they are "functional" but getting up there in wear.

For clarification. Every bearing/seal/crush sleeve is the same as a Dana 30 or 1030 EXCEPT ,for the two pinion bearings which are Volvo specific sizes.

Yay or nay?

Is there a nice little kit I can buy or do I have to piece it together?
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Old 11-12-2020, 01:55 AM   #12
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This kit should have all the bearings you need for a 1030 in a Volvo. It doesn't appear to come with shims and 1030's don't use a crush sleeve.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ti...+seal+kit,2224
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Old 11-12-2020, 02:44 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
This kit should have all the bearings you need for a 1030 in a Volvo. It doesn't appear to come with shims and 1030's don't use a crush sleeve.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ti...+seal+kit,2224
Sorry. My diff is a 1031. Should have made that evident.
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Old 11-12-2020, 01:47 PM   #14
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First post says 1030.

The only difference is the inner pinion bearing & race. Just add a HM89410 and HM89449 to your order.

The crush sleeve is available from Volvo.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...spacer-8689678
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Old 11-12-2020, 02:19 PM   #15
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Do you have a dial indicator?
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Old 11-12-2020, 03:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Do you have a dial indicator?
No. Will rent one wen the time comes.
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
First post says 1030.

The only difference is the inner pinion bearing & race. Just add a HM89410 and HM89449 to your order.

The crush sleeve is available from Volvo.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...spacer-8689678
Thanks!

Yeah, that was before I found a 1031 axle.
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Old 11-12-2020, 03:08 PM   #17
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Cut the old bearings off.

Reinstall the side bearing shim. Press on new side bearings and hope that you are in spec. That's what I would do.

Got an inch/lb torque wrench? Install new pinion bearing and crush sleeve and set the pinion bearing preload, slap some marking compound on the gears and hope the pattern looks ok. Thats what I'd do.
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Old 12-14-2020, 08:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Cut the old bearings off.

Reinstall the side bearing shim. Press on new side bearings and hope that you are in spec. That's what I would do.

Got an inch/lb torque wrench? Install new pinion bearing and crush sleeve and set the pinion bearing preload, slap some marking compound on the gears and hope the pattern looks ok. Thats what I'd do.
Got a torque wrench... most expensive do-all tool I own.

Just putting it together is the plan. I should have measured before I took it apart... live and learn I suppose.

Wondering if I can be cheap-ass and just shim the old crush sleeve. lol
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Old 12-14-2020, 08:11 PM   #19
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Make sure you measure INCH POUNDS not foot/lbs.
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Old 12-15-2020, 06:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Make sure you measure INCH POUNDS not foot/lbs.
It's not my first rodeo... just my first cattle wrestle with a differential.

Ya sure this is the right crush sleeve? The automatron says it doesn't fit my "1990 Volvo 240"

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Old 12-15-2020, 08:45 PM   #21
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Yeah, its the right one. The part number updates and it looks different but the same crush sleeve was used on 200/700/850/900/S70/S90/V70/V90.
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Old 12-16-2020, 01:58 AM   #22
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Yeah, its the right one. The part number updates and it looks different but the same crush sleeve was used on 200/700/850/900/S70/S90/V70/V90.
Thatís what I figured... canít rely on the computron for everything.
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Old 12-16-2020, 03:24 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaverMeat View Post
Got a torque wrench... most expensive do-all tool I own.
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Make sure you measure INCH POUNDS not foot/lbs.
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Originally Posted by BeaverMeat View Post
It's not my first rodeo...
Um, whoa... I doubt any insult was intended. Your comment hit me exactly the same way: a "do-all tool" is almost certainly referring to bolt tightness. In contrast, the inch-lb wrench is a "do only one thing" tool: rotational assessment. In the automotive context, setting up bearing preload is pretty much its only meaningful use. Steering columns and rear axles come to mind; not much else.

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Wondering if I can be cheap-ass and just shim the old crush sleeve. lol
Huh? You're asking for what else to replace "as long as you're in there", and yet...??

If you've got your hands on an inch-lb wrench, you may as well set up a solid spacer. Then you'll never have to worry about the results. It will never crush further with application of significant engine torque (which I think was one of your concerns, running a 5.0?) And if you indulge in a habit of spinning tires, eventually the pinion oil seal will go, and replacing it will be 100x easier if you don't need to worry about pulling the whole thing apart to install another new crush sleeve. Just pull off the yoke, swap, and you're done.

Or.... you can cheap out, and then enjoy getting another chance to practice doing the same job again.
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Old 12-17-2020, 12:59 PM   #24
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Um, whoa... I doubt any insult was intended. Your comment hit me exactly the same way: a "do-all tool" is almost certainly referring to bolt tightness. In contrast, the inch-lb wrench is a "do only one thing" tool: rotational assessment. In the automotive context, setting up bearing preload is pretty much its only meaningful use. Steering columns and rear axles come to mind; not much else.


Huh? You're asking for what else to replace "as long as you're in there", and yet...??

If you've got your hands on an inch-lb wrench, you may as well set up a solid spacer. Then you'll never have to worry about the results. It will never crush further with application of significant engine torque (which I think was one of your concerns, running a 5.0?) And if you indulge in a habit of spinning tires, eventually the pinion oil seal will go, and replacing it will be 100x easier if you don't need to worry about pulling the whole thing apart to install another new crush sleeve. Just pull off the yoke, swap, and you're done.

Or.... you can cheap out, and then enjoy getting another chance to practice doing the same job again.
lol. Need to use more emojis. It was light hearted.

“Do-all” as-in precision tool that does all the important bolt/nut work where “Ugga-chugga” isn’t accurate enough. Lug nuts, suspension components, etc. Most other work can be done with basic hand tools like wrenches and hammers... torches.

Yes, I just learned the crush washer can’t be crushed again. I found them locally so it wasn’t a big deal as I thought. Never thought to go with a solid. Oh well. Next time.

I’m past the “burnout” stage of my life and this car isn’t a drift weapon... the original 30 diff is toast because of the 5.0. I think the spider gear cross shaft is broken. Which I’m told is common.

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Old 01-06-2021, 02:44 PM   #25
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Make sure you measure INCH POUNDS not foot/lbs.
Just revisiting this again... according to the service manual it’s 185 ft/lbs to torque the pinion nut? Other sources say 145 ft/lbs...

Am I correct in believing I should slowly increase the torque starting at ~100 lf/lbs up to a max of 145 (or 185) for. 21-39 in.lbs of "new bearing" preload?

*scratches head*

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