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Old 01-18-2020, 05:56 AM   #76
Pete.M
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Coffee table material right there
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Old 01-18-2020, 09:59 AM   #77
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Coffee table material right there
Could happen if it goes kaboom...
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Old 01-18-2020, 12:36 PM   #78
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Could happen if it goes kaboom...
Considering I'm running 6-10 psi on my NA B6304S+T, non-intercooled, with water/meth, 16G turbo/heat pump, and not getting audible detonation @ 10-14* WOT timing...I think you might have to try pretty hard to blow a properly built T6 up. Of course we expect you to try .
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Old 01-18-2020, 03:34 PM   #79
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Considering I'm running 6-10 psi on my NA B6304S+T, non-intercooled, with water/meth, 16G turbo/heat pump, and not getting audible detonation @ 10-14* WOT timing...I think you might have to try pretty hard to blow a properly built T6 up. Of course we expect you to try .
My goal is between 700 and 800 whp so I think I'm going to try enough!
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Old 03-29-2020, 07:01 PM   #80
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Let the fun begin... S14 subframe and diff. Track width is 59.5 inches for the Volvo, 60.5 inches for the S14 so half an inch wider on each side.









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Old 04-05-2020, 05:44 PM   #81
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Slowly getting this thing back together...





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Old 04-05-2020, 08:42 PM   #82
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Looking good! Funny I was just working on mine today too. I was actually going to send you a DM about what headgasket you're using but since you have a VVT head you aren't going to have the issue I was today.
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Old 04-05-2020, 10:37 PM   #83
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Looking good! Funny I was just working on mine today too. I was actually going to send you a DM about what headgasket you're using but since you have a VVT head you aren't going to have the issue I was today.
Thanks!

What is your issue with the head gasket?

I’m using a regular Victor Reinz gasket.

Last edited by poulrais; 04-07-2020 at 07:33 AM..
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Old 04-06-2020, 07:17 AM   #84
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It looks like your dirt bike only sees pavement, get offroad with it!!!
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Old 04-06-2020, 08:46 AM   #85
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It looks like your dirt bike only sees pavement, get offroad with it!!!
Still winter over here so it has not been out yet.
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Old 04-06-2020, 01:20 PM   #86
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Looking good!
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Old 04-06-2020, 11:04 PM   #87
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Quote:
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What is your issue with the head gasket?

I’m using a regular Victor Reinz gasket.
I'm using a b6304 head. The VR gasket cooling passages wont hit the cooling channel in the deeworks guard. I actually modified an MLS gasket (would be a bolt on for you) to match before I realized I'm going to have to drill it a bit more custom. (Nothing like botching a 300 dollar HG).

It's a problem specific to my block / head combo. I'm almost wondering if I should drill a few more holes in the cooling channel.
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Old 04-07-2020, 07:32 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio View Post
I'm using a b6304 head. The VR gasket cooling passages wont hit the cooling channel in the deeworks guard. I actually modified an MLS gasket (would be a bolt on for you) to match before I realized I'm going to have to drill it a bit more custom. (Nothing like botching a 300 dollar HG).

It's a problem specific to my block / head combo. I'm almost wondering if I should drill a few more holes in the cooling channel.
You want to drill holes in the block guard or the HG?
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Old 04-07-2020, 07:33 AM   #89
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Looking good!
Thanks!
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Old 04-07-2020, 02:33 PM   #90
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You want to drill holes in the block guard or the HG?
having a debate about both options.
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Old 04-07-2020, 04:20 PM   #91
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having a debate about both options.
Maybe you should talk to Roger about this?
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Old 04-07-2020, 06:25 PM   #92
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Quote:
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having a debate about both options.
I'd drill the guard. Then you don't have to think it in the future if you change the headgasket. Small holes aren't really a structural weakness.
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Old 04-08-2020, 03:02 PM   #93
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Quote:
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Maybe you should talk to Roger about this?
He never answers my emails :(

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I'd drill the guard. Then you don't have to think it in the future if you change the headgasket. Small holes aren't really a structural weakness.
That's my plan. It's in the cooling channel in the guard so it'll be below deck surface. About as low risk as it gets.
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Old 04-08-2020, 06:36 PM   #94
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Quote:
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He never answers my emails :(



That's my plan. It's in the cooling channel in the guard so it'll be below deck surface. About as low risk as it gets.
Yeah he's not very cooperative these days... Been waiting for spacers for my big brakes adapters he made for me like a year ago...

I'm about to rub his nose in the dirt...
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Old 04-09-2020, 08:38 AM   #95
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...and the strange communication pattern is the one large reason I haven't ordered more stuff from him :(. I'm calm and cool as a cucumber if communication is easy, but I become a panicky bitch if I can't reach someone who's got hundreds (or thousands) of my dollars :(.

I'm not asking for daily updates, but being kept in the loop in regards to payment received, order processing, order shipped, etc, is nice.
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Old 04-10-2020, 10:01 AM   #96
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Will this work?

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Old 04-19-2020, 04:27 PM   #97
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Out the old subframe and diff assembly. I'm going to start test fitting the S14 subframe this week.



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Old 05-03-2020, 07:41 PM   #98
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Worked a bit on the S14 subframe swap... I should start cutting into the rear trunk spare tire hole to make way for a cross beam that will have to be welded between the two frame rails. Plenty of space to work with since the fuel tank is removed. I have to order a set or rear Nissan S14 coil overs. I will need some pretty thick wheel spacers if I want to be able to install the 285mm rear tires I plan on using.

Wheel centered at the same place the original wheel was placed.



Pretty tight for a 225mm. This is on a Toyota Supra wheel. I don't know what the offset is.



On the left is the spare tire "container" that I'll have to remove a good chunk of.



I'll have to weld a square tube beam between the two rear frame rails on which I will weld the round tubing stand of to bolt the rear subframe mounting points.



This is the left front subframe mounting point. It aligns with the frame rail pretty neatly so I think that all that will be needed is to weld a round tubing stand off of the correct height with a long bolt running though the frame rail.



A peak though the driveshaft tunnel. The differential will need to go up quite a bit.

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Old 05-05-2020, 09:13 AM   #99
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So I'm going to start cutting off along this dotted line to make way for the sub frame support I'm going to build for the rear mounts. I'm going to use 3 1/2 inch square tubing with 1/8 thick walls for the cross member and 3 inch round tubing, again with 1/8 walls for the stand offs.

I'm still trying to figure out what is the best tool I should use to cut into this. Sawzall? Cutting wheel? Electric metal scissors? Cutting along the frame rails is going to be hard with the sawzall.

Also, what is the best way to remove the bonding material that is present in multiple places? Welding is pretty much impossible anywhere near that shiz...

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Old 05-05-2020, 05:14 PM   #100
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I'd probably start cutting with a cutoff wheel. As for the sealant, scrape what you can off with a sharpened putty knife or razor, then wire wheel or scotchbrite on a grinder.

Looking forward to seeing how that 6 cyl turns out.
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