home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > maintenance & nonperformance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-18-2021, 03:57 PM   #1
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default Wobble in Front Wheel

After replacing my strut cartridge this week, I am noticing sound coming from the front right of the car.

It's a minor sound, but rather annoying to hear over bumps.
The sound seems to go away at speeds higher than 30mph.
Seems to be more prevalent over small bumps in the road rather than large bumps.

I checked my control arm bushings, ball joint and tie rod (new as of last Winter) and they seem stiff and secure.
The passenger side anti-sway bar bushing is a tad worn and could use replacement, but I don't believe that's the source of the noise.

I did notice, that the brake disc (rotor) itself has some play, up and down & side to side.
Is this a sign of a warped rotor, bad bearing, hub or something else?

While swapping the strut cartridge, I did inadvertently jack the assembly by the center of the rotor/hub, could this have damaged one of the components?

I gave the rotor a few taps with a soft mallet and double-checked the set screws.
The face of the rotor and the back of the wheel seem smooth and without defects.
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2021, 05:26 PM   #2
dl242gt
My car is fun hp club
 
dl242gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
Default

From your description. I'd check the wheel bearings for play. Jacking the strut by the rotor hub isn't going to hurt anything. That's all made to take the weight of the car, so it should be fine.
__________________
Dave,
1982 242 turbo. 338k miles. MVP coilovers and 3" exhaust. Flowed 405 with a V15. Cossie turbine housing with upgraded compressor housing. 90+, IPD remote oil filter. Some other goodness, too. Been lots of fun over 25 years. Restored in 2k. Now ready for a 2nd restoration.

1993 245 Classic, 435k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
dl242gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2021, 12:29 PM   #3
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

RE: checking the bearings for play
Do I have to remove the hub to check all the bearing components or is it only necessary to remove the cap, pin and nut and then check the outer bearing? Will it be pretty obvious if there is play in the bearing?
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2021, 01:11 PM   #4
hiperfauto
The Librarian
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

Lift the front end of the car and place it on jack stands. Grab the front tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and see if there's any play in the wheel bearing. If not, grab it at 3 and 9 o'clock and check for steering rod/rod end play.
hiperfauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2021, 02:49 PM   #5
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Lift the front end of the car and place it on jack stands. Grab the front tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and see if there's any play in the wheel bearing. If not, grab it at 3 and 9 o'clock and check for steering rod/rod end play.
Yes, there is play in both axes, but more so along the Y Axis (12 & 3 position)
If I tap the tire with the car floating, I can hear metal on metal.

There is no play in the ball joint, tie rod, etc...
All the play seems to be limited to the wheel/brake rotor.

If the bearing is the problem, should I leave the car parked until I can get around to replacing it?

Last edited by VolvoScout; 07-20-2021 at 03:34 PM..
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2021, 06:06 PM   #6
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

Also, is this the correct part (Everything I need, including inner and outer races)?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...kit-fag-271391
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2021, 06:36 PM   #7
hiperfauto
The Librarian
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

If there is significant bearing play the bearing is probably bad and I wouldn't recommend driving the car. If it's just a little play you can probably just adjust it and be on your way. The only way to know for sure it to remove, clean and inspect both bearings and races.

That is the correct bearing kit for '80- with the larger bearings.
hiperfauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 08:09 AM   #8
Jerd
Board Member
 
Jerd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Vancouver WA
Default

Strut gland nut tight?
Jerd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 11:52 AM   #9
Redwood Chair
K-jet For Life
 
Redwood Chair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
If there is significant bearing play the bearing is probably bad and I wouldn't recommend driving the car. If it's just a little play you can probably just adjust it and be on your way. The only way to know for sure it to remove, clean and inspect both bearings and races.

That is the correct bearing kit for '80- with the larger bearings.


If it was set too tight, you've heated it up and spun a bearing you'll need a replacement hub too.
__________________
Raise The Lowered


Image hosted by servimg.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna sprout?


Redwood Chair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2021, 09:42 PM   #10
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

I replaced the front bearings this weekend.
The grease didn't look to dirty, but had a burnt smell (not sure how normal that is)
Bearings seemed to be intact (made in Germany, so I'm assuming they were original?)

Car is still experiencing sound over bumps.

To diagnose, I had someone bounce the front of the car to reproduce the sound I get while driving.
I inspected the tie rod and ball joint while they were bouncing and did not see any play.
If I applied outward leverage at the top of the tire (pulling to towards myself), the sound disappeared.

Thoughts?
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2021, 05:25 PM   #11
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

Could it be the rotor or wheel hub?
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2021, 05:49 PM   #12
Redwood Chair
K-jet For Life
 
Redwood Chair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VolvoScout View Post
Could it be the rotor or wheel hub?
Yes an over tightened wheel bearing can burn up, spin the race and ogg out the hub.

Did you inspect the outer race's fit when you were in there?
Redwood Chair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2021, 05:54 PM   #13
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

The castle nut was only hand tight, actually somewhat loose. (Which, to my understanding is appropriate)
I removed and replaced the races as well. They seemed to fit fine, with no deformations.

The rotor seems to have trouble fitting back onto the hub (its a tad finicky and takes some precise fitting...feels snug) due to rust on the back (Although the front of the rotor looks fine)
Could it be as simple as the rotor isn't as flat on the back as it needs to be to fit flush against the hub due to some rust?
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2021, 06:10 PM   #14
Redwood Chair
K-jet For Life
 
Redwood Chair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -
Default

Tightening the lug nuts should take out any slack.

Did you wire brush the hub so the rotor sits right?
Redwood Chair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2021, 09:59 AM   #15
OldCarNewTricks
Board Member
 
OldCarNewTricks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Oregon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Tightening the lug nuts should take out any slack.

Did you wire brush the hub so the rotor sits right?
Wire brushing the rust away is a good bet. Anything in between the two machines surfaces could definitely cause wobbling and a brake pulsation.

I need to rebuild the hubs on my 242, too. Between shot brake rotors and worn bearings, my steering wheel does quite the shimmy at speed.
OldCarNewTricks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2021, 01:50 PM   #16
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

So I think this may have been a "distracting injury," leading me in the wrong direction.
I sanded the backs of the rotors...same clunk.
I replaced the rotors with a new, spare set on my shelf....same clunk.
I replaced the anti-sway bar bushing...same clunk.

While replacing the anti-sway bar bushing, under the car, I pushed up the bar and tried to follow the sound of the clunk.
I think now, it may be coming from the strut housing.

A few years ago, I had a mechanic replace the worn struts with a new set of Bilstein B4s.
The other week, I swapped my Bilsteins for the OEM Volvo Struts (shorter and hydraulic only, non-gas)
I did not check to see if the spacer was still present at the time. (Mechanic may have removed it when installing the Bilsteins)

Would the lack of a spacer cause a clunk?
Is it a bad idea (potentially damaging) to daily drive the car for a bit without the spacer?
If this is the case, anyone have a spare set of spacers?
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2021, 02:12 PM   #17
OldCarNewTricks
Board Member
 
OldCarNewTricks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Oregon
Default

So you think maybe you are maxing out your shocks, and maybe that's what's causing the noise? Make sense to me...
OldCarNewTricks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2021, 02:39 PM   #18
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
So you think maybe you are maxing out your shocks, and maybe that's what's causing the noise? Make sense to me...
It only seems to make noise on smaller bumps (like potholes and cracks in a city road) at lower speed.
Might just be that I can't hear it above 25mph...not sure.
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2021, 02:44 PM   #19
hiperfauto
The Librarian
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

IIRC only the DeCarbon and Bilstein B6 struts require the spacer. Are you sure you got the strut retaining nut tight?
hiperfauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2021, 02:52 PM   #20
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
IIRC only the DeCarbon and Bilstein B6 struts require the spacer. Are you sure you got the strut retaining nut tight?
It's tightened it down as far as it will go.

I reused one of the older steel gland nuts for the side in-question because I ran out of the newer aluminum gland nuts. It's slightly shorter than the newer style.
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2021, 02:57 PM   #21
hiperfauto
The Librarian
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

You need to use the gland nut that came with the strut.

Which strut are you using?
hiperfauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2021, 03:16 PM   #22
VolvoScout
Board Member
 
VolvoScout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
You need to use the gland nut that came with the strut.

Which strut are you using?
I am using the OEM Volvo Strut (Monroe)
No gland nut was supplied with the strut
VolvoScout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2021, 03:19 PM   #23
dl242gt
My car is fun hp club
 
dl242gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
IIRC only the DeCarbon and Bilstein B6 struts require the spacer. Are you sure you got the strut retaining nut tight?
Those two types of insert do not use the spacer. All others use them in my experience.
dl242gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2021, 03:33 PM   #24
hiperfauto
The Librarian
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

I guess I got it backwards.
hiperfauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2021, 12:20 AM   #25
Otto Mattik
board member
 
Otto Mattik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Upper Midwest more or less
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Those two types of insert do not use the spacer. All others use them in my experience.
Are you familiar with the claim that Bilstein HD/B-6 are too long in some late model 240 strut housings, due to built-in spacer/s ?

__________________
Desperate need of elf assistant for interior work - Cash/Beer option $


Feedback thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=323689
Otto Mattik is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:24 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.