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Old 08-03-2021, 10:06 PM   #1
Michael92
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Default What camshaft would you run in a 1993 NA 240 Auto with Turbo Head

Hi there,

Want to get your input on the camshaft you would run on a 1993 240 B230f. It is about time to do a cylinder head job on it since there is around 300,000 miles on the car and I am thinking about upgrading the cylinder to a turbo cylinder head. From what I understand the turbo head has better exhaust valves, and a better flowing intake. I also am thinking about changing the factory M cam. The recommendations are a mixed bag. Some saying A/B/VX. Would you keep the factory cam with a cleaned up turbo head, or do the head with a cam and if so, which one? The car is driven daily and sometimes far distances. Will the fuel mileage suffer by choosing one these options?
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Old 08-04-2021, 01:37 AM   #2
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I wouldnt worry about swapping to a turbo head. Yes, ex. valve are filled to withstand the turbo heat but on a NA, you have no worries. In fact most +T stay with the NA head with no problems. As far as cam, for cheap Id go with T cam. Second choice would be A, B or better yet a V cam. I ran a V cam in my NA and it really woke the engine up. I would focus on clean up intake ports and enlarge the exhaust, then resurface to raise compression some. Good info at the top of this forum. Get ahold of Culberro, he does great job on heads.
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Old 08-04-2021, 02:24 AM   #3
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K cam is what you really want, but the T, A, or B will be an upgrade. M cam is trash.

Don't worry about changing the head. It's not worth it on an NA.

You CAN mill off a good chunk of the head to raise the compression ratio. This will do a fair amount for power. .040 to .060 is common.


Also don't forget the adjustable cam gear if you swap cams and/or mill the head.
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Old 08-04-2021, 02:33 AM   #4
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There is no benefit to a turbo head on a non-turbo car. The only difference on the 530 heads between turbo and non-turbo is the exhaust valves are sodium filled, which is not necessary in a non-turbo car.

The intakes are the same between the two.

Here's some great reading for you:
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=354499

If you're going to pull the cylinder head off for rebuilding, you definitely want to get a more aggressive camshaft in there, the head shaved for more compression and a thinner, MLS headgasket installed.
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Old 08-04-2021, 12:33 PM   #5
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I’ve ran a ipd turbo cam on my 91 b230f for a couple months and it’s a lot of fun, I run it advanced a couple degrees and have a pretty quick take off. It also does fine with my 80+ mile commute daily.
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Old 08-04-2021, 01:25 PM   #6
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Doesn't IPD still make the vx cam? We're talking automagic here... K cam with the autotragic is going to be a soul crushing dog. Keep in mind any cam you put in there is going to make the car go from slow to marginally less slow.

Another way you could make the car feel faster is in addition to the cam swap, put a cone filter on in place of the stock air intake... you'll hear the engine more from the driver's seat and it'll make the car seem faster. Second, perform the accumulator mod on your transmission (probably an aw70)... it'll radically crispen up the shifts... again, in the name of making it feel faster.
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Old 08-04-2021, 02:06 PM   #7
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T-cam, open the chambers a bit and get the head shaved to bring the CR back up to where you want it (if there's even any change needed).
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Old 08-04-2021, 02:19 PM   #8
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Loving the advice so far! You guys are helpful!!
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Old 08-04-2021, 03:46 PM   #9
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I agree with culberro. If you're not doing anything else with the engine you will be best off with the T cam. It is a slight performance increase and you won't give up any driveability. I was not at all impressed with the VX cam in an otherwise stock 1993 240 with automatic transmission. It idled rough, made more noise and seemed to have less get up and go than a stock engine. When changing to a more aggressive cam several other changes need to be made to actually gain any performance from the new cam.
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Old 08-04-2021, 03:59 PM   #10
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A good cheap way to improve the air intake is to remove the air filter box and completely take out the air thermostat. It mounted on four little arms that snap into the edge of the airbox. Then you reroute the manifold hot air hose to the front of the car using the round hole next to the right headlight. You may need to buy some extra of the hot air hose to extend it to the front. Now you have double cold air going in which did seem to slightly improve the feel of the engine on my car.

Another fun improvement on the 93 you can do is to get a chipped EZK box. You'll have to find a chip able unit or solder in the daughter board kit that is available. Then you can install the tuned EZK chip and it makes for a more enjoyable B230F. I used the chip from sbabbs. It does require premium fuel all the time. I got better mileage adding this to my B230F. Noticed a bit better throttle response, too.
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Old 08-05-2021, 12:11 AM   #11
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The T cam wasn't on my radar. It sounds like I would preserve the driveabilty, while gaining a little more acceleration down low. I barely find myself high in the rpm range. My driving range seems to be from 0-4000rpm, mainly in the 2000 to 3500 rpm range. I am leaning in the direction of getting a b230ft head cleaned up and installing as a complete unit. I know the sodium filled valves are overkill. I love having the best parts on my car.

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Originally Posted by 740atl View Post
Doesn't IPD still make the vx cam? We're talking automagic here... K cam with the autotragic is going to be a soul crushing dog. Keep in mind any cam you put in there is going to make the car go from slow to marginally less slow.

Another way you could make the car feel faster is in addition to the cam swap, put a cone filter on in place of the stock air intake... you'll hear the engine more from the driver's seat and it'll make the car seem faster. Second, perform the accumulator mod on your transmission (probably an aw70)... it'll radically crispen up the shifts... again, in the name of making it feel faster.
AW71! Swapped out the tired AW70 for a smooth running AW71 from a 91 Turbo 740

Last edited by Michael92; 08-05-2021 at 12:24 AM..
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Old 08-05-2021, 01:21 AM   #12
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I've got a VX cam in my n/a, I beat the piss out of it.
Most of these cams sacrifice low end torque for mid-high range power. Rev it more.
Leave the overdrive off, it's like sport mode.

My car is definitely slower now to 0 - 15mph, but quicker to 0-60. Biggest difference now is all the guts it has from 60-100mph, which is where you want it on the highway. Gotta give it the beans though.
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Old 08-05-2021, 10:36 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I've got a VX cam in my n/a, I beat the piss out of it.
Most of these cams sacrifice low end torque for mid-high range power. Rev it more.
Leave the overdrive off, it's like sport mode.

My car is definitely slower now to 0 - 15mph, but quicker to 0-60. Biggest difference now is all the guts it has from 60-100mph, which is where you want it on the highway. Gotta give it the beans though.
The 240 doesn't have many beans to give. Did you notice a loss in fuel mileage with the VX cam?
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Old 08-05-2021, 11:48 AM   #14
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I just realized this is a NA setup.

I’d definitely recommend having the head milled 0.040”, and use something like a B-cam (or a VX3). You can use regular grade gas or premium, and you’ll have an increase in your fuel mileage as a result of the increased CR. You’ll also notice that the amount of theottle needed to go 60-70mph on the freeway is about half what it used to be.

If you don’t want to mill the head for higher CR, then a “T” cam is your best bet for an auto.
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Old 08-05-2021, 12:11 PM   #15
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I ran a B cam on my na autotragic for several years i thought it was well balanced.
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Old 08-05-2021, 12:26 PM   #16
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I'm running an A cam with an STS adjustable gear fully advanced on a 91 245 auto with lh2.4. It definitely seems o pull harder all the way to the shift points. It's no rocket but it can hold its own with traffic.
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Old 08-05-2021, 12:32 PM   #17
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Like Culberro said, mill the head 0.040", then get an A, B, V, or VX cam, whichever is cheapest or most available. The differences in them in your application could be measured, but not felt. The additional compression ratio, however, will be.
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Old 08-05-2021, 03:59 PM   #18
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To these I add the thinner headgasket, likely a .036" or .040". You may also NEED to run premium to prevent detonation in some circumstances, but the car will run better all around with better efficiency as well.
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
I just realized this is a NA setup.

I’d definitely recommend having the head milled 0.040”, and use something like a B-cam (or a VX3). You can use regular grade gas or premium, and you’ll have an increase in your fuel mileage as a result of the increased CR. You’ll also notice that the amount of theottle needed to go 60-70mph on the freeway is about half what it used to be.

If you don’t want to mill the head for higher CR, then a “T” cam is your best bet for an auto.

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Like Culberro said, mill the head 0.040", then get an A, B, V, or VX cam, whichever is cheapest or most available. The differences in them in your application could be measured, but not felt. The additional compression ratio, however, will be.
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