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Old 11-28-2020, 01:23 PM   #1
KwikBrik245
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Default KwikBrik245's Twin Turbo LS1 '88 744 REbuild: White Lightning

Here is my attempt at a project thread. Please bear with me.

Back in 2015 a good friend of mine was ready to purchase his first Volvo, and a fellow member (Svenski) informed me of a super clean '88 744 turbo at his Volvo dealership.

My friend and I went to look at the car and he knew he wanted it...

A 744 Turbo AW71 White w/ hooker's blood red interior. 185k on the clock, but looked brand new inside, out, and under. It was traded in by a former SCCA racer with the name of Patron. It was his wife's car that they ordered through the Tourist & Diplomat Sales Program on one of their trips to Sweden. Within a month I gave him a 13c/90+manifold to replace the leaking Garrett turbo. We turned up the boost to 14psi, and went through a head gasket shortly after. The HG was replaced and it wasn't 2 months before the Kool-Aid man came to visit. Shortly after that, he sold the cleanest 740 I've ever seen.

Fast forward 3 years and I see it for sale on CL thanks to [Edit]: 89_740Turbo. Despite the PO's best attempts to remove decals, I was able to identify the car via the outline of SCCA and High mileage decals that the old racer had added before my friend purchased the car. He had it priced at a high $13k but it had a new (to the car) drivetrain. A LS1/T56 out of a '99 firebird, and some twin turbos to boot. I obviously haggled a bit, and got the car for a deal.

I got off work early and immediately withdrew my Engagement ring/Mortgage Down Payment, and hopped in my buddy's car to Canton. After a short visit I was on my way home with my own personal time capsule of 530hp (@ a more reasonable price to boot). Much of the PO's quality of workmanship is **** to say the least and the car came with great parts w/ poor execution, but I am slowly making this car my own. I am currently 1.5yrs into my ownership and have made much progress. Pics of said progress to follow.

I hope you all enjoy reading this journey as much as I enjoy sharing it with you.

The Pics w/ Moose out the sunroof are circa b230ft power
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'88 744, Twin Turbo LS1/T56, Grizzly locked Dana 30.

Last edited by KwikBrik245; 12-04-2020 at 09:28 PM.. Reason: Horrible composition skills
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Old 11-28-2020, 06:41 PM   #2
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Default 1st upgrades

The first upgrades to the car:

Kaplhenke rear subframe, adjustable torque rods, adjustable panhard bar.

The PO built a "scavenge" setup for the turbos. Completely standalone. No filter, No cooler, No regulator. Just a Tilton electric oil pump. This wouldn't do, so I added a Turbosmart oil pressure regulator, inline filter, and Setrab oil cooler/fan pack.
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Old 11-28-2020, 07:25 PM   #3
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I went to the track and my best time was 14.1 @ 107mph. I could tell I had a miss so I went to work. Found that one of my turbos gave out and I had damage to 2 pistons, none to the cylinders amazingly. Next I tore everything apart so that I could rebuild it how I think it should be.
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Old 11-28-2020, 07:32 PM   #4
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The PO deleted the ABS pump, but nothing else. He added the delete plate seen in the pics, but nothing to support or shield it from heat. After a couple good pulls you had ZERO pedal to slow the car down. Not to mention the wiring in that area is hideous. I made quick work of that though.

I also got to verify the cam that was claimed to have been installed.
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Old 11-28-2020, 09:16 PM   #5
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The rebuild.

Wiseco Pro series pistons
Summit ProLS forged H-Beam rods
Clevite coated H series rod and main bearings
Meling 10296 Hi volume oil pump
ARP main studs
Griffin fan shroud to replace the full sheet baking pan shroud
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Last edited by KwikBrik245; 11-28-2020 at 09:17 PM.. Reason: Forgot to upload pics
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Old 11-28-2020, 09:49 PM   #6
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Very cool, nice project! That is gonna be quick!
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Old 11-28-2020, 10:10 PM   #7
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The Center console was a very awkward situation. The PO removed the factory head unit and equalizer, and somehow managed to rivet a generic racekor switch panel with push to start. No fitment whatsoever and gaps all around. Since this also would not do, I started making my own panel with a hinge so that I can access the fuse panel. I also removed the hvac box from under the dash to make room for my coil packs and to mount the ECM.
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Last edited by KwikBrik245; 11-29-2020 at 01:36 PM.. Reason: Edit pics
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Old 12-06-2020, 07:29 PM   #8
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I went to run the new pigtail to the reverse switch and realized I don't have room for the connector to clear the trans tunnel. I am not sure if I just want to hammer out the tunnel more just to make it fit, or if I want to get this switch I found online

https://www.sikky.com/product/sikky-...e-lamp-sensor/
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Old 12-16-2020, 08:46 PM   #9
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After a little google and calling around, I found the company that will be widening a pair of Hydras for me.
https://weldcraftwheels.com/

I just need to figure out how much width will be added. I currently have 225/50r16 tires so 1-2" additional width with the help of some spacers will give me quite a bit more traction without being too obvious.
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Old 12-16-2020, 08:56 PM   #10
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Cool, that will be pretty undercover!
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Old 12-17-2020, 07:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
Cool, that will be pretty undercover!
Thanks. Hydras aren't my first choice of wheels, but they absolutely look like they belong on the car. I may have to bite the bullet and get something in at least 17" so I can upgrade the brakes as the car gets faster. 225 wide to 255s should fill the wheel well nicely w/o much modification to the body.
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Old 12-17-2020, 12:30 PM   #12
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Very cool project and power plant in it.

Bad ass car build > Engagement Ring. No brainer
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Old 12-17-2020, 03:41 PM   #13
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question how well does the T56 shifter line up with the stock hole?
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Old 12-17-2020, 10:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vol242vo View Post
Very cool project and power plant in it.

Bad ass car build > Engagement Ring. No brainer
Thanks. The lady loves the car. So it worked out haha.




Quote:
Originally Posted by 240wagonguy View Post
question how well does the T56 shifter line up with the stock hole?
It lines up ok. Slightly to the left of center. I need to get some sort of offset shifter to bring the shifter back an inch or two. I am not the guilty party who twisted that opening up btw.
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Old 12-18-2020, 09:30 AM   #15
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GTO shifter might help with that.
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Old 12-18-2020, 09:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240wagonguy View Post
GTO shifter might help with that.
I will definitely look into that. I cut a little relief into my lower cluster panel that I made, but the shifter still gets a little too close.
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Old 12-26-2020, 11:21 AM   #17
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I guess now is as good a time as any to tackle the most horrid part of the car... Headliner

Since I have a sedan and I wont be removing either the front or rear glass, my only other option is through the trunk. I have been procrastinating for quite some time with this task. I even put it off when my buddy first owned the car. lol. I probably won't be sticking with the same color or material but I know I have plenty of prep to do on it before then.

Also, here is my list/spreadsheet. It is ever changing, so bear with me.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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Old 02-27-2021, 08:28 PM   #18
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Did some digging around and found one of the Dyno sheets. Those numbers are with a standard FPR without boost reference and a faulty in tank pump. Also went to Summit Racing today and gabbed a few more goodies to fix fueling issues as well as some other stuff.

Walbro 450 pump
Deatschwerks DWR1000 Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Edelbrock Performer-Link adjustable timing set.
ICT timing cover with twin -10 AN oil drains.
Autometer sending units.

Also the wiring cleanup seems to never end
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Old 02-27-2021, 09:14 PM   #19
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Updated dyno sheet will be exciting, not that that one is weak at all!

I went with this shifter handle to avoid punching my dash.

http://cart.hanlonmotorsports.com/hm...d-handle-black
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Old 02-27-2021, 11:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
Updated dyno sheet will be exciting, not that that one is weak at all!

I went with this shifter handle to avoid punching my dash.

http://cart.hanlonmotorsports.com/hm...d-handle-black
That is a pretty slick piece you bought. Do you have a pic of it mounted?
I am excited to see what numbers the car will make. The wall it was hitting was only getting bigger with boost. Obviously the lighter internals and balancing will help too.
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Old 02-28-2021, 12:23 AM   #21
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Default shifter !!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
Updated dyno sheet will be exciting, not that that one is weak at all!

I went with this shifter handle to avoid punching my dash.

http://cart.hanlonmotorsports.com/hm...d-handle-black
hey nice shifter. I swapped a 7mgte / r154 supra in my 240 volvo wagon. I also had a closer shifter position, so i was able to solve it with a mustang manual lever.Good luck in your mod. Take care.
DZ
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Old 02-28-2021, 08:31 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KwikBrik245 View Post
That is a pretty slick piece you bought. Do you have a pic of it mounted?
I am excited to see what numbers the car will make. The wall it was hitting was only getting bigger with boost. Obviously the lighter internals and balancing will help too.
I didn't mount it yet because it would be in the way of my heater core repair. I hate that job...
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Old 03-01-2021, 02:03 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
I didn't mount it yet because it would be in the way of my heater core repair. I hate that job...
No worries. I'll just have to stay up to date on your build lol
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Old 03-21-2021, 09:04 AM   #24
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Default Tank Time

After too much procrastination I will be starting the sending unit upgrade/refresh.
New wiring for the Walbro 450 pump and sender. Picked up a stainless fuel strainer from AI North America. I'm not sure if I will see more fuel aeration vs the OEM style sock strainer, only one way to find out I guess.
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Old 03-24-2021, 05:23 PM   #25
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Default Fuel Sender

Today I tore down my fuel sender as it hasn't worked in quite some time. I tested continuity from the connector down to the float assembly. Everything checked out.

Next I disassembled the float assembly and found a broken wire on one of the resistor rods that the float contacts slide along. The break is right at the bottom where the wire connects to the metal base. I am hoping I can either repair the break or at least find a replacement piece.
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