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Old 07-03-2020, 03:41 PM   #51
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Default More paint restoration!

I took a while to look back and decided to get rid of the marks left from the sticker bombing (which got clearcoated)


So I kept on going deciding to also blend in the old repairs, starting with the A-pillar repair


And the repaired window section, 1500 grit -> motip spot blender -> 3000 grit, turns out old clear coat is much harder than the single stage but I think it turned out okay overall




The other side after this treatement


Couldn't wait do did the blended parts, so I gave them a quick polish, lookin good


With the holiday's finally here, I decided to go surfing (at a safe distance)

It was luckily pretty quiet


Last week was spent polishing the rest, pretty happy with the results, it won't ever
be perfect but this should do after some wax



I also finally updated the landing page for the sake of the new ones, since it was as old as the thread Rebuild on the xc90 calipers coming up!
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Old 08-21-2020, 05:53 PM   #52
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Default camber and freshenup

To get prepped for the install of the new brakes the tapped struts to receive the adapter bracket received a rebuild, and the new yellow koni's


Starting with the removal of the totally destroyed dust shields (custom aluminium ones will be made in the future)


After which the steering arms got a delete, since the txr roll steer kit removes them entirely from the equation


Continued with scraping of the rubber coating and some sandblasting to get them prepped and ready for paint


I also made this little tool to torque the strut tops, two old hex bolts, 5mm plate and a file did the trick



With the struts themselves sorted, I moved to deal with the annoying issue of the txr plates shifting which I solved by welding them into place (I chose 50% ackerman to try as they adjust from full parallel to full ackerman)


I found out later that the new bolts supplied with the kit are grade 10.9 compared to the stock 8.8 and are tightened to 105Nm with some locktite for good measure, which explains part of the problem Also bought and freshened up this lot for the new setup:


And fixed my previous camber modding sins by using the drill press and measurement this time around


I used the original front studs from the old plates which seemed better quality and pulled in better than the aftermarket replacements, as I stripped the other set trying to pull them in to the drilled holes, whereas the volvo ones went straight in


Pretty content with the result!



I also got around to testing some prototype valve setting tools I made or myself and my brother


Installed the rear distributor delete plug


And got the plate I got lasercut to keep it there installed as well



The upgrades made a big difference, the car feels much more stable now, the 50% ackerman was a bit strange at first, but in high speed corners the added grip when pushing is definitely noticeable. With the new lsd rear axle in the works, it should also be better in low speed corners, with less front end push making the ackerman change noticeable due to the locker
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Old 09-17-2020, 03:51 PM   #53
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A week after the holidays I swapped out the aussie locker axle for an open diff 3.54 from a low milage diesel, selling off the other axle to a friendly driftkid


With the funds I bought this 'Racing Diffs LSD conversion kit', it was a bit of a pain to install, but seems to work and it's a whole lot smoother than the aussie, it should be good for around 25% continous lock and is said to be able to reach 50% under heavy loads. We'll see if it lives long term, and does well on track.


I also got a set of 235/45r17 Vredenstein Ultrac rear and 225/45r17 front for the new wheels and mounted them by hand with a friend in under an hour, much better than the usual motorcycle tires


The rear wheels were now slightly rubbing, so I decided to sacrifice my rear wheel arches with a little cut and bash (gently)


Weirdly enough the car now appears to need more low, we'll work on that, since the circumference is still the same so good enough for now I guess


Whilst modifying the rear fenders, I discovered some of the previous owners 'repairs' so I'll have to get the welder out, whilst recoating the arches after the bashing


My Chinese intercooler piping also arrived, and it appears all should fit with one extra coupler to adapt the 13c to the 2.5 inch piping

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Old 09-18-2020, 12:45 PM   #54
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I also got all the calipers together and the cast iron bits stripped down for the xc90 brake conversion.


The sandblasting cabinet got them perfectly clean ready for a coat of midnight black epoxy paint


The rear calipers got a full rebuild and the booster a strip and paint with rustconverting primer


I used the silver permatex grease on all the machined area's which got left bare during the painting process


The rebuild calipers with their stainless braided lines came out really nice


I also took the master cylinder apart to check the seals and give everything a fresh coat of brake fluid compatible grease for the new install


I also took the time to get my crack free manifold sandblasted and coated in heat resistant paint
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Old 10-03-2020, 12:10 PM   #55
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So I finally got the front calipers installed, they stop incredibly well, the new booster is also a very welcome upgrade with a more progressive pedal response


I started with the removal of the old calipers


And realized after bolting on the new stuff the lines had to slightly be altered to work, so I modified the brackets for the brake lines and the lines themselves for the single piston setup, with the normal triangle crossover since I have the old 2x3 port brake divider


First time using this tool, it took some learning, but I managed okay with making the new lines from the removed second ones for the front setup


The braided brakeline was a little short, but I made it work okay, this being at full droop, without binding


The rear brakelines are a bit longer and will follow the trailing arms to get new connections under the sills


I also revised my rear break setup for the n-th time, to something I'm finally content with


Which has the working e-brake from the xc90 and an easily serviced caliper adapted to the axle retaining cap bolts, for which the steel version should arrive somewhere next week
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Old 10-03-2020, 12:37 PM   #56
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Nice progress, really nice wheels also.
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Old 10-03-2020, 01:03 PM   #57
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nicely done!
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Old 10-03-2020, 05:17 PM   #58
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Thanks! I'm pretty happy I found them, they were previously owned by a drifter, but the guys at the garage where I got them balanced were amazed at how straight they were. They're a bit heavy, but really solid so that's a good thing
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Old 10-12-2020, 03:02 PM   #59
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Have you tried the LSD on track yet? Very curious about it.
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Old 10-13-2020, 09:00 AM   #60
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Not yet, on b roads it's been well behaved, you only really feel it when the back starts to step out like it should. I might get it on a track in November, there's a session at Assen circuit planned
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Old 10-27-2020, 05:36 AM   #61
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The steel for the rear brakes arrived a few weeks ago


I added some welds to the parking brake stoppers


Got all of it fit up to check if it was correct, managed to not break a single tap whilst creating the m10 threads, although the stress in the steel was noticable


Got started on the aluminium dust shields (2mm thick sheet)


These turned out pretty good, just need to make a tool to roll the edge, I have some bearings and 3d printer v-wheels so a solution should be easily made. I'll just have to now make the attachment for the brake shoes and get them sandblasted tonight ready for paint


The front dust shields have also been made to approximate size, I'm just waiting to finish my 3d printer enclosure to be able to create certain parts in abs without warping of the material, to create the original seal surrounding the hub's bearing
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Old 11-09-2020, 06:15 PM   #62
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A few weeks ago I sold off my second intercooler and tubing kit and exchanged it for all of the silicon hoses I'll be needing for the turbo engine, only the cooling silicone left to go.


With the new wheels a spare had to also be sourced, so I got one of these 17 inch v60r spares on the advise of Lankku.


I also got around to sandblasting and welding up the last bits for the rear brakes, so the parking brake was now part of the assembly


With a very warm autumn day, I got onto the process of bolting it all on, and hoping I got my tolerances right


Starting with the parking brake cable replacement for the correct type for my new setup, which required this little ziptie trick to get the pin into place


I was in luck and everything received a bit of love from the torque wrench and loctite. The aluminium dust shields required a few changes so those will follow soon


For the rear brake lines I mirrored the original design from the fuel tank side, and connected it up after a new connection was added to the copper line. New brackets will be installed as soon as I receive my rivet nut tool
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Old 12-21-2020, 10:47 PM   #63
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQVhIaityrg
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Old 12-22-2020, 04:01 AM   #64
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Quote:
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Thanks haha
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Old 01-03-2021, 10:35 AM   #65
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Your project is coming along quite nicely!
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Old 01-03-2021, 12:31 PM   #66
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What pads are you using with the XC90 brakes?
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Old 01-04-2021, 06:53 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KwikBrik245 View Post
Your project is coming along quite nicely!
Thanks!

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What pads are you using with the XC90 brakes?
I'm currently running the oem pads on the calipers, as the size of rotors should keep heat to a minimal and bite is decent. I'll be looking at printing airducts from the fog light splitter I have laying around to add some cooling, and might invest in EBC pads and rotors as they are available, but only if the oem's start to fade
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Old 03-02-2021, 04:24 PM   #68
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Finally march again, so I got the car back from storage, and immediately put it on the dyno with a fresh tune I worked out at home during the winter. Great thanks for klr142 for providing his mappings, they helped a lot in getting it worked out!

I switched to more appropriate 218cc ev6 injectors off my brothers second b6304, and burned a chip for a e-fan enabled tune to work with the 984 casing I had laying around. I ended up making 135whp at 190Nm, which suprised me greatly, pretty stoked on this last hurray for the N/A engine of this chassis. It will be sold off, or end up in another project eventually



Dyno plot below, without lambda unfortunately, as we couldn't get it to work with the volvo S shaped exhaust tip, which I will change soon. Pretty nice and smooth exept for the start around 2000 rpm, possibly an issue with idle/temperature enrichment and the high overlap of the K-cam. I might slightly modify that still, as wel as raise base idle rpm a bit to 8-900, but all in all the tune starts and idles nice, and is well behaved.


To repeat a small summary of the setup for reference:
10.3:1 b230k with stock 530 head
kg004 aka k camshaft
buchka wasted spark
218cc ev6 injectors
bigger J-pipe with turbo exhaust system
Chipped lh2.4 (own tune)
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Old 03-29-2021, 05:53 PM   #69
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Default The fixlist

In anticipation of what it coming for the car, I got myself a turbo gauge with a Dave Barton front, ready for boost


The car itself received a thorough cleanup after storage, and I decided to get it back to classy, by getting rid of the stickers, and cleaning up the look by doing an antenna delete


Next up fix the 50% ackermann and put it back to 100% where it belongs with the stiffer sidewall


If you run these, clamp and weld in place to avoid movement, and torque to the specified spec for the stonger bolts they come with. Volvo spec will make these go loose on you due to the difference in bolt grade!


I also use the winter to make up these ezk chipping boards, which do not interfere with the chips already on the ezk like those of others. A few demo's are out, and after a solid bit of testing, I'll start selling them to those interested.


Next up, longer brake lines for the xc90 conversion, and a little shuffle of the brakelines. I now moved to RR, FF split on the junction block, as that felt safer. I put the front of the junction block to the rear brakes as I read that the bores on that end are smaller. My ABS booster has equal pistons sizes, so that should now result in the correct bias. From testing the system, it appears to be correct now.


Whilst bleeding the system, I also got to installing my KL racing braided clutch line, as the stock line was slightly expanding under the sachs racing cover plate. I even had enough dot 5.1 left to bleed both of my mountainbikes, rad
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Old 03-29-2021, 06:29 PM   #70
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Default Turbo time

From my engine building thread, I finally finished the turbo engine, ditching the twin turbo's for a single 13c for now, with a custom 18t for the future after run in


It left my room in all its glory after 2 years


And received some vaseline loving to get the automatic transmission support bushing out


I made a little wooden jig to get the whiteblock internal, redblock external m90 transmission rear flange of to get to the seal and replaced it


The shifter seal also got refreshed


Along with all other seals


The lever balljoint also got replaced as well as its counterpart and shimmed by 4mm for the dogdish flywheel I'm using


Old engine came out, as did the old trans, heading for slovakia after a re-seal to Simon, along with all other goodies for his turbo project


The flywheel and clutch look mint still, given the trashing it receives, pretty good for a little sandblast flywheel cleanup before install


P.O. of my m90 internals hit the front of the splines where the pilot rides with a hammer as it appears, so I spent an hour carefully getting it back to spec with a diamond file


The new engine received the usual coolant bypass at the back of the head, to save the heater core, and to make the back of the head run cooler, due to the blocked port that used to go to the carb manifold in early b230's


And it's in


Only two casualties, due to me having to take the engine out twice past the grill retainers, with the crane not being on it's longest setting and the head hitting my expensive wasted spark ignition module, due to me not removing it like an idiot



I quickly put in oil, cranked it without spark until it made pressure shown by the banjo on top of the turbo, and used the old NA tune for now, with the NA intake to get a first start going. In short, it lives!


Next up, get the air filter, maf and intercooler tubing made up



Last edited by Swedbrick; 04-19-2021 at 06:25 PM..
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Old 04-19-2021, 06:25 PM   #71
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Default First drive

Since the previous video of the car running was still on the N/A injectors and map, I got a fresh 148 EZK ready with buchka spark and remapped my 984 Motronic ecu to the stage 1 turbo mapping me and Redblockpowered offer


I also got the MAF wiring extended to move it to the other side next to the turbo


The ignition module got a new bracket to move it to the drivers side strut support to prevent future issues with head's bashing it on the way in, so a little rewire and bracket and it sits in a much better position now.


Whilst on my bracketry adventures, I got the funk out, and made up this very tight fitting bracket for my 2x2 coil, to mount in where the original distributor went for maximum stealth. It also retains the seal in the back of the head


The grill support brackets I wrecked on the way in got a little epoxy and fillet, and are now suprisingly strong again. If they don't hold, I can always get a new set.


With that fixed, the intercooler got installed, a little cutting required, and two holes in the radiator support. Rubber couplers are used in between, and keep in in place isolated from the frame, the lower bracket will follow soon and will tie in the stock intercooler mountings.


I got lucky and found the perfect tube to extend my downpipe with, and got the exhaust sorted as well


The old exhaust side on the turbo I originally installed got replaced with this mint one I managed to get from a friend who's upgraded to a 15g. Another weak point removed, this should do much better Whilst under the car again I added these plummer seals to the shifter, which tightened up the shift nicely, as the fork was slightly wider, and the o-ring from the bushing kit had perished.


Thanks to my dad I got access to a bead roller and worked out the intercooler piping to perfect lengths, after ditching the thin chinese couplers for Silicone Hoses versions of the same bends, to take the abuse.


I love the look of my engine bay now, nice and clean!


Since the motor sounded like it ran in to piston slap at the first run in, I got the boroscope out and inspected the bores. Not perfect, but I'll take it.


With the safety of the block confirmed, I ran it in. The slap dissapeared, coolant bled well, all good. Next up reshimming, swapping from the spare X cam to a T cam, retorqueing the stronger head bolts and putting in new seals on both ends.


Faith restored, I went on the first drive, it makes nice noises with the pod filter and stronger spring in the recirc valve, and pulls well.


Unfortunately, I did not reach my 50km goal for break-in, as the car started to smell of oil, my PVC print for the crankcase breather had split (Overtorqued it like a dummo), making a big mess, and the car stall on decel. Made it home, got it torn out, and replaced it with the tried and true TB breather mod. I will make another print, this time in PA12 nylon, just to try, it should work, I think Science!


I also heared a hard ticking sound after the drive home, fearing rod knock, it scared me plenty. Turns out I never tightened the water pump pulley bolts, or my shim plate made it come undone. Either way, when I tightened them the sound went away, luckily I have a spare and will be swapping it in, since this one took alot of abuse on the bearings.

Last edited by Swedbrick; 04-23-2021 at 05:00 PM..
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Old 04-23-2021, 05:00 PM   #72
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Default Engine ready for first 500km

Since I had my old pre-painted water pump left, which was different in pulley size from the volvo 360 unit I had previously, I mounted it to make sure the pump was good again. I chose aluminium spacer plates over steel for this one, just to make sure it tightens up to the pulley correctly. The old pump for sure took a beating, the bearings could be heard when spinning it by hand, for a almost new unit.


I also ran into my throttle being off from the last time I drove the car, turns out several throttle cable brackets exist, so that one got swapped for the one on the old engine


The notorious oil seal of doom got me on the drain pipe, so I took the turbo clamp off once more, along with all other stuff keeping it from rotating and got it sorted.


I finally got to finalize the run in accel/decel procedure, and got to replacing the break in oil. Apart from cuts from the filter after using the tin can opener, no steel bits or large non-ferrous chunks, with only a little coal from it running a bit rich initially. Turns out my EZK board does not work yet, and will cause a rich condition with the chipped ecu as my EZK is a different model than the chips make it to be.


Whilst replacing the plugs I got the compression tester and boroscope out, and inspected the cylinders. Walls still look great.


The compression test ended up showing great correspondence between cylinders:
Cyl1: 180psi
Cyl2: 172psi
Cyl3: 180psi
Cyl4: 172psi

I'm still suspect of a little issue, possibly to do with the pod filter in front of the MAF, as my car stalls when slowing down from boost, and then runs fine afterwards. If I slow down more gently, it does not die, I also re-filled the fuel tank, that didn't solve the problem. The PCV also returns in front of the turbo, so I might briefly try venting to atmosphere to see if it is crank pressure related with my b20 oil cap with a breather mounted on top, as I have removed that currently. Apart from that, time to add miles!

Last edited by Swedbrick; 05-16-2021 at 03:49 PM..
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Old 05-16-2021, 06:47 PM   #73
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Default Sort sort sort

With the engine now broken in, and doing well on the LPT 0.3bar setting, I got around to doing all of the sorting required to get it inspected. Starting off by these intercooler brackets, with rubber supports on the intercooler side, annoyingly the stock intercooler bosses are not in the center, but it will do


I also sorted the stalling issue, it turned out not to be the pcv system, but a bad throttle body. When compared the throttle body on the old engine was much better, so that got a shine up and got installed Now the issue was only present when slowing down from boost, leading me down a path of debugging, figuring out my chipping board still had a few issues. Since the chipset uses a 219 ezk bin instead of the original 148, it was running very rich resulting in the stalls due to load signal mismatch. I fixed my board, but decided to run the stock mappings for now, with the stock 148 ezk and de-immobalized 984 motronic, as that was my backup ecu set.


Whilst tearing down the old engine for a re-fresh of the seals and timing drivetrain (will be for sale if the dutchies are interested in a 135whp redblock), I discovered that the b230k pulley is also bigger, but will fit my b230fk waterpump. Interesting that these higher compression engines were given less water flow, but fortunate for me, that will allow me to put this pulley on the new engine to prevent waterpump cavitation. I also finally found a decent downpipe that wasn't cut trough where the catalitic converter mounts, like the 3 I had laying around, so I put the whole exhaust back to stock 940 turbo spec with a cat


Since due to my 16V timing gears, that allow me to run a 24mm timing belt, the plastic cover did not fit anymore. I designed up some TPU spacers that will widen the original protection, keeping the dirt out, whilst squishing a bit for a good seal. The top has to still be completed, but hopefully it will it up nicely


Now for the most dreaded job of the summer, the giant hole in the wheel well, along with the cracked paint revealing a sloppy bondo job


First up, the rear pockets, which were previously repaired with a piece of steel siliconed into place. The seam was partly eaten away, so I had to cut out a lot, but it ended up being okay, and allowing me to keep the original rubber drain location


The next thing to fix was the right side wheel wheel, which had clearly been previously repaired, but they only put a plate over the rust, instead of adressing it properly. A quick cut, drill and cleanup later (very happy with my new spot welding drill bit) and it cleaned up nicely


A few plates and the section was back together in a nice coat of zinc chassis paint


I then took out the nearly an inch thick piece of bondo, and decided given my panel beating skills to leave it as is with a good sand and paint. I also discovered that this side of the car has been painted 5 times, if I ever decide to paint this thing properly, it will all have to go back to metal for once


A bit of sanding of the primer later, and a spray with motip autolack 14355, which was a suprising good match in comparison to the expensive color matched volvo 173-2 I previously bought, it looks a lot better again without the weird black corner

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Old 05-16-2021, 11:12 PM   #74
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Everything seems to be falling into place. I really like the progress of this build, and I can wait for it to be finished. By the way, you may consider checking HD wheels Spinout model in gloss black with red face because this mag will complement the color of your car.

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Old 05-19-2021, 08:56 AM   #75
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Thank you! Those wheels are pretty interesting looking, not necessarily my cup of tea, but a really cool option for a VIP style build. I might at some point get some 17x8 Steelies made up for a set of semi slicks if I get to that point, with a big 3d printed cap on them to make them look like the oem volvo 'omega' wheels, which are one of my favorite 80's wheel designs.
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