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Old 01-31-2021, 02:11 PM   #1
spock345
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Default Difficult shifting into 1st from a stop

I noticed yesterday that my amazon has some difficulty shifting into 1st or 2nd from a stop. It is almost as if the clutch is not disengaging entirely. If I blip the throttle a bit it will go in no problem.

I've checked the adjustment on the clutch and it has the right amount of play. No bubbles in the fluid and the master cylinder is full. The slave cylinder also appears to be good. I noticed some wear on the clevis where the master cylinder connects to the pedal which results in a decent amount of play. I've adjusted that out as far as it will go to try compensating for that wear and have ordered a replacement.

Is there anything else I am forgetting to check?
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Old 01-31-2021, 02:26 PM   #2
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You probably have the Long shifter, the trans cover is worn. Good luck finding one that isn’t
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Old 01-31-2021, 02:49 PM   #3
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If there is a spec in the service manual for clutch fork motion check it to make sure that you are getting the correct amount of movement from the slave cylinder to insure complete disengagement. The release fork on the clutch can also develop cracks and the pins that engage the release bearing will wear resulting in loss of motion in the release bearing. You can check the amount of clutch drag by shifting into 3rd or 4th gear, use a pedal jack to fully depress the clutch pedal and then slide under the car and rotate the driveshaft by hand. If you can't rotate the drive shaft then you have some serious clutch drag (or you left the parking brake on). Varying degrees of difficulty in rotating the driveshaft will leave you with a somewhat subjective assessment of the amount of drag.

As noted, the long M40 shifter is subject to wear at the pivot pins where the shifter fits in the cover. However, that is relatively easy to fix with some retrofit bushings. There are probably posts on Turbobricks discussing the problem. I know there are definitely posts on Swedespeed describing a fix for the problem. I expect that Planetman / hiperfauto can tell you how to do it.

Finally, if the problem has developed gradually you may have worn synchros. Changing to Red Line MTL or other friction modified transmission lubes (with the correct modifiers) can improve synchro operation.
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Old 01-31-2021, 04:39 PM   #4
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I've got it running redline MTL already instead of the stock SAE 30. Choices are limited on this box because a lot of modern stuff is GL-5 and will eat synchros.

It really only happens when everything has warmed up which makes me think the clutch or the synchros.

My shifter cover actually isn't all that bad. The left slot has almost no wear and only slightly out of shape on the right. There are some photos floating around of ones that get really bad.

I'll try checking the driveshaft like you have described.
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Old 01-31-2021, 09:36 PM   #5
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If it is easy to shift with the engine OFF.but difficult with it running it may be the disc is sticking to the flywheel. How old is it?
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Old 01-31-2021, 10:03 PM   #6
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If it is easy to shift with the engine OFF.but difficult with it running it may be the disc is sticking to the flywheel. How old is it?
No clue how old it is. Looked fine last I checked. If fixing the worn out cylinder/pedal linkage does nothing the gearbox is coming out.
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Old 01-31-2021, 10:09 PM   #7
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How about shifting into reverse? If that doesn't grind a bunch, then it's probably not a dragging clutch.
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Old 02-01-2021, 02:49 PM   #8
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How about shifting into reverse? If that doesn't grind a bunch, then it's probably not a dragging clutch.
There is some difficulty getting into reverse. A bit of grinding.
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Old 02-01-2021, 03:11 PM   #9
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Try stopping, shifting into 1/2/3/4, then into neutral, then into reverse. Shifting it into one of those gears will ensure everything is stopped, if it starts spinning again by the time you try reverse again, it's def something dragging with the clutch.

I'd try adjusting as much as you can, just to make sure you have enough clutch fork travel happening. If you're pushing the fork about as far as it can/should go, and the clutch still drags, you'll need to take it apart to see why.
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Old 02-01-2021, 03:21 PM   #10
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Definitely sounds like a slightly dragging clutch.

I had this exact issue on my 244. I just needed to adjust the clutch to release more. It has a crappy aftermarket cable, so it slowly goes out of adjustment and you don't really notice it. Then one day you say to yourself " Got dang! this POS is really hard to get into first sometimes!"
Quick adjustment later... all back to normal.
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Old 02-04-2021, 01:26 AM   #11
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I flushed the clutch fluid today and replaced the clevis piece where it connects to the pedal. The hole for the pin was badly worn. It got better. I can actually get it into gear at a stop light without throttle or jiggling the lever. Still a bit stiff. I am guessing that is either some worn transmission parts or something in the bell housing is a bit sticky and not moving as it should.

When I figure out my transmission swap plans the car will be getting a new clutch.
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Old 02-04-2021, 06:04 AM   #12
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Bent clutch fork?
Worn layshaft bearings?
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Old 02-04-2021, 10:23 AM   #13
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Pilot bearing sticking?
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