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Old 04-16-2021, 07:06 AM   #51
leecatd8209
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The progress looks good, but it seems like you have a lot of things to do before you get to finish it.
Such is life.

5 cars, a job, and a life make things take a long time.
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Old 04-18-2021, 09:30 AM   #52
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I've been pushing myself to do something with my projects every day, no matter how small. Not every day is a Volvo day, but I'm moving forward.

Got the rods and NA pistons into the block, front and rear seals in, and the oil pump and pan on.



Don't mind my garage. My life, and especially the garage, is lived in a constant state of near to full on chaos. It's exhausting and infuriating, but somehow I manage.



And awhile back I managed to finally give her a good wash and recharge the AC!





It's time to start robbing parts off the engine in the 760 in order to get this one buttoned up enough to set in place, as of now it's at least mobile, so I'm not looking forward to taking it out of commission with the way my motivation has been lately. This is also the point where parts I don't have on hand are going to be throwing me off. I already don't think I have o-rings for the oil filter extension, and the PCV parts I have are for a later car.

Not the time to dwell on what's gonna hold me up, though. Just gotta keep moving.
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:00 PM   #53
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My daily "Sloppy hour" is making stuff happen faster than I anticipated


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Old 04-19-2021, 11:08 PM   #54
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Haha sloppy hour ,

I need to follow suit with atleast an hour gettin sloppy on my projects !

Thanks for the inspo n good luck on the +t ! Its so worth kt!
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Old 04-20-2021, 10:07 PM   #55
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Water pump, timing belt tensioner, and YoshiFab oil drain fitting installed tonight. The manifold is just hung for now, I forgot to order gaskets :(. Next I need to reclock the 15g, and mount the late 760 oil filter extension/cooler thermostat. I'm waiting on an IPD order with a cam in it. Once it shows up I can get it timed and get the front buttoned up. And once I get manifold gaskets I can wrap up the hot side as well.

Starting Thursday I have 7 days off, and I would LOVE to hear this run by the end of that. It's a lofty goal, and parts will probably hang me up, but even just getting this motor set in the car would be cool.

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Old 04-21-2021, 07:47 AM   #56
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Since I'm moving from the T3 to a Mitsu turbo do I need to change the coolant hoses for the water cooling? Also I think the charge pipe couplings are a little different on the turbo side for the Mitsu cars.

Just about everything I'm using came off a 1990, so I think I'm safe ordering parts for that as opposed to the 1986 T3 car.

Lastly what's stopping me from using this do88 piping kit? FCP says it's only for 92-95 models
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...88-performance

Edit: late turbo cars have the intercooler inlet and outlet lower than the earlier ones.

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Old 04-21-2021, 10:29 AM   #57
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You can get the hoses from ipd or fcp. https://www.ipdusa.com/products/2088...-KIT26S-139570
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Old 06-06-2021, 08:05 PM   #58
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Just need to finalize the turbo oil feed and wastegate actuator rod, then it's ready to swap over. Hopefully the rain continues to hold off.


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Old 06-11-2021, 10:39 AM   #59
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I wasn't using my head and ordered everything to make an AN turbo oil feed in -6 hose instead of the normal -4.

Especially considering I'm still using the stock size banjo fittings I don't see it being an issue, but I'm interested in opinions.
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Old 06-20-2021, 06:54 PM   #60
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Old engine out



Rebuilt unit in



I misplaced one bellhousing bolt, but I'm gonna continue on and see if it turns up. It's fully bolted in, wiring and plumbing can wait for another day.
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Old 06-22-2021, 09:52 AM   #61
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It's in there and buttoned up except for the accessory belts and the fan. Now if I could just get the injectors to fire I could be out driving

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Old 06-24-2021, 10:45 PM   #62
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I got it running, all four injectors were bad from their ride in the ultrasonic cleaner. Won't be doing that again, I think I might rig up a little cleaning rack with a spare fuel rail one of these days.

It has awesome oil pressure, and the cold pre break-in compression numbers were WAY up from the wheezy old boat anchor I pulled out. It even survived a few trips around the block without spinning any bearings. I'm hoping it stays that way.

While it's a huge boon to motivation to have it up and running, the work is far from over. It's not making any boost at all. I have a list of things to check there before I really start scratching my head. One question is how critical is the check valve in the vacuum line to the CBV? I still need to get a downpipe fabbed up, set the static timing, charge the A/C back up, and troubleshoot the inop coolant temp gauge.

After that I'll need to tackle the ride quality, it's super clunky and boaty. Luckily 7xx stuff is stupid cheap, that's a welcome surprise.

I'll give it another 6 months at least before I have it on the street.
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Old 06-25-2021, 09:42 AM   #63
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Hold up. Is this the completely rebuilt bottom end that you just drove? That's awesome.
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Old 06-25-2021, 05:07 PM   #64
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Hold up. Is this the completely rebuilt bottom end that you just drove? That's awesome.
It is! Thanks! The closer I got the more nervous I got, but it acts like it's going to hold up
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Old 07-06-2021, 10:42 PM   #65
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Finally got enough of the loose ends straightened out to move on to road testing. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, and hooked up the cluster boost gauge and one of those finally gave me some power under load. Then I read an article on how to properly use my timing light and gained a little more. Once it was finally feeling closer to normal I tee'd in a boost gauge and cranked the boost up! I can only seem to get 12psi out of it, and the auto trans is a HUGE power vampire, like I can feel it wanting to go, but the trans is just not for me. I do need to adjust the kickdown, it's not so bad if you lock it out of OD.



and a desperately needed trip to the car scratch



Now I need to diagnose the turn signals, replace the exhaust studs on the turbo so I can hang the downpipe, and clean the bay. Then suspension and onto little things. I need to pull the power seat and see if I can get it working again, lube the sunroof mechanism, make all the speakers work and install a bluetooth head unit, maybe move the oil pressure gauge into the cabin, find a place to mount gauges, for that matter. So there's a lot left to do... At least I can drive it now.
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Old 07-07-2021, 07:35 AM   #66
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I still love that this engine is working so well for you. I'd love to try my hand at rebuilding a red block bottom end with bigger rods and squirters.
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Old 07-07-2021, 12:09 PM   #67
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I still love that this engine is working so well for you. I'd love to try my hand at rebuilding a red block bottom end with bigger rods and squirters.
If you get lucky and find a good bottom end I'd recommend it. I honestly could have reused the bearings if I'd wanted, everything in this one was very fresh. I have 3 more FTs here that have too much bore wear to be worth messing with, and even the one I built had some noticeable taper.

If I'm gonna be perfectly honest, though. For all the effort and time I have into it, a trip to the machine shop would have left me with a lot more confidence and peace of mind. That being said, other than the rods it's still basically a bone stock +T on LH2.2 in a clapped out 760. It wasn't "worth" nearly all the effort and money I did put into it, let alone an added machine shop bill. It was more just an excersize in finding out what I'm actually capable of if I stick with a project.

If I had a bigger garage I'd just keep collecting good engines and do this all the time, tbh. Space was the biggest hurdle.
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Old 07-18-2021, 12:46 AM   #68
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Now that the going part was down pretty good it was time to address the steering and stopping part of the equation. This thing was a HANDFUL on less than perfect roads while on the throttle.



I went budget but not "cheap" and just did basically everything. IPD poly strut rod bushings and sway bar end links. KYB shocks and struts, Moog ball joints and tie rod ends, a rebuilt rack because the old one leaked from the boots, and Husky overload springs (from Rock Auto) for the rear to delete the Nivomat.

The front struts were weak, but not the worst. The rear however was in terrible shape. The shock on the driver's side was totally blown and the passenger's side was seized solid in the all the way up position. I also had planned on replacing most of the other bushings, but everything I inspected was still in good shape, and the records show most of them have been replaced at some point, so at least they're not 35 years old.

It sits way better now, and the bounce test feels way better. I haven't been able to test drive it yet due to the turbo being back off for some stuff, but I'm anticipating a marked improvement in ride quality.



Some things I need to tweak still: The rear springs don't have any actual positive engagement to the car, so I need to fab up a little tab to hold them to the body and throw a chunk of rubber between the spring and the body for some isolation. I imagine they'd be fine, I don't plan on going all Dukes of Hazzard with it, but it's something that I'd feel better about if I take care of it.

Once I get the turbo back on this week I'll make an appointment for an alignment, inspection, and AC recharge and then I should finally be able to finally put some miles on it.

A few questions I have:
1. I'm running straight 30w oil with some zinc additive for break-in. How long would you leave that in there? I'm thinking ~50-100 miles unless I notice it getting shiny on the stick

2. Is there an LH2.2 tuning option, or should I just start ordering stuff to get it running on MS? I have an MS2 box here already.

3. Who wants the 240? It needs a new AC compressor clutch, I'll order it one of these days, but I really need to thin my herd and pay for a wedding; and it seems like it'd be the easiest to sell.

Last edited by leecatd8209; 07-18-2021 at 12:57 AM..
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Old 08-05-2021, 11:24 AM   #69
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The AC compressor clutch job on the 240 has turned into a bit of a fiasco, but progress is being made. The bearing is seized very tightly to the compressor shaft. I meant to get a puller in my travels the last few days, but I forgot.

The 760 is doing well. I got license plates on it, and a really bad alignment done. Threw in a cheap head unit with bluetooth and was able to make all the speakers work. I can't say the stereo sounds great, but for 35yo stock it's more than acceptable. I've been picking at things slowly, and it's honestly quite a nice runner. Passing power is out of this world compared to what I've been in for the last 6ish years. The AC blows cold, but I have to jump the compressor clutch straight to the battery to get it to come on. I'm planning on wiring the clutch and the condenser fan to a switched relay for continued daily duty. The list seems to be growing, but the scale of the needs is declining.

The rebuild motor is doing ok. It's still burning some oil which is to be expected with the new rings, I'm not seeing any metal on the stick, and the oil pressure is still excellent, that's the good. The bad is that the oil is a bit dark, and there's just the faintest little noise coming from somewhere. It's not a rod knock, and it seems to come and go. I'm thinking maybe some piston slap, or maybe wrist pin noise. We'll see what it does. I'm going to do the oil change soon, and cut open the filter and see what that brings. I expect some glitter, but hopefully not too much. Also thinking about doing another stint with the straight 30 weight and zinc while it's still using a little bit before I do the liqui moly flush and change.

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Old 08-05-2021, 11:53 AM   #70
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My local autozone had an ac clutch puller for rent. Had to do that job on my daughter's V70. It was a bitch.
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Old 08-05-2021, 11:58 AM   #71
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My local autozone had an ac clutch puller for rent. Had to do that job on my daughter's V70. It was a bitch.
Ours does, too, but it doesn't look like it'll work for this job. I think just a standard 3 jaw puller will do the job, I have an assortment on the way. I'm regretting not spending the slightly more money to get a whole new compressor over just the clutch. I could have been done already.
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Old 08-05-2021, 01:58 PM   #72
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Ours does, too, but it doesn't look like it'll work for this job. I think just a standard 3 jaw puller will do the job, I have an assortment on the way. I'm regretting not spending the slightly more money to get a whole new compressor over just the clutch. I could have been done already.
Yep getting the compressor would have been the easy way. Saves headaches.
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Old 08-05-2021, 02:04 PM   #73
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Yep getting the compressor would have been the easy way. Saves headaches.
In my defense the compressor is only a year old, and works quite well. But now that I'm into it, those "nice" aluminum accessory bushings need to be replaced, so it really has to come out anyway.

Nothing is ever easy at my house.
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Old 08-08-2021, 11:49 AM   #74
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Sooooo, I ordered a new compressor for the 240.

The clutch coil is held on by 3 phillips head machine screws. Two out of three of the screws were barely even tight, but that third one was either crossthreaded, or had loctite on it, or something. It stripped out, I was able to drill the head off to get the coil off, but couldn't extract the rest of the screw with the compressor in the car.

240-AC-Clutch

I'll get this in the drill press and get that last screw drilled out, install the new clutch, and then pickle it on the shelf for a later date. Both Volvos take the same compressor, so having a spare isn't the worst position to be in.

The 760 only makes three pounds of boost, and has a shaky idle suddenly. I thought it was my crappy MBC, but I took it out, and still only three pounds. Unclear. I'm gonna smoke test everything and get down and dirty on diagnostics.
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Old 08-18-2021, 03:04 PM   #75
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Got the new AC compressor in, but now I'm just not getting the same cold air I used to. I even sprung for the better compressor this time.



My pressures are in line with a temp chart for R-134a but I'm only getting ~60 degrees from the vents at idle which eventually goes down to ~45 degrees after some driving. That's not terrible given that it's over 90 with outrageous humidity, but I used to get almost 40 degrees at idle with the old compressor.

I noticed while charging that as I approached the appropriate charge level the system pressures leveled off. Even as I added more refrigerant the pressures stayed the same with the high side topping off at ~275lbs. I also swear I read somewhere that these systems work best slightly undercharged on R-134a, so I'm hesitant to add more.

Idk, it's enough to keep the sweat off, and this compressor is much quieter than the old one. Maybe I'll tinker with it some more after I do some more research.
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