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Old 01-26-2021, 10:59 PM   #1551
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You can damn near get away with PS4Ss year round in Portland. Ask me how I know.
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Old 01-26-2021, 11:06 PM   #1552
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God I wish that were me
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Old 01-26-2021, 11:08 PM   #1553
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At least it's not 50% rust by mass, being a Whatsitchooseitts car.
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:23 PM   #1554
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First Volvo-related post, _ever_. My life is complete.

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Old 05-17-2021, 02:25 PM   #1555
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:35 PM   #1556
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Accept no substitute...

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Old 06-04-2021, 02:51 AM   #1557
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Not all that much has been happening as of late with this car. Been focusing more on getting the last bits of the BMW figured out. All 242 work has either yielded no results or made things worse, which, you know, frustrating.

1. Figured out my dog doesn't like this car










2. Put a Culberro-rebuilt T-5 in an attempt to get a VSS 2 channel in order to have working traction control. MS3x does not want to recognize a signal faster than 2300 Hz, so basically there is no signal past 80 mph. Inconvenient if I'm drag racing...and the vibrations are still there. It also necessitated adding a Dakota Digital box and an extra VSS conditioner box. That was very expensive. Ended up replacing my trusty Summit shifter with a Hurst, which I didn't like. Replaced that with a new Summit shifter.





3. Went drag racing. It was slow...slower than power figures from the last dyno day would suggest, but everything else at the drag strip seemed slow by about the same margin. Turns out new Summit shifter is garbage and does not like keeping the selector rod in its linkage. 90% of my runs were scrubbed and no good launches were achieved. Ran out of patience eventually, turned the boost up a bit to 15 PSI, and managed a blazing :eyeroll: 14.3s at 104.9 mph.





4. Post drag racing, jacked the car up and was greeted by a collapsing (or rather freshly broken in?) near new poly motor mount. This put the corner of the cylinder head firmly against an air conditioning line. Gonna make some spacers out of this here 3/8" aluminum stock to resolve. Notching the valve cover is also in the cards. Also tempted to do the MikeP passenger side motor mount mod at the expense of my stock oil cooler. That stuff is not needed anyway...right?







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Old 08-18-2021, 08:41 PM   #1558
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Okay so a few things happened since June. For one, I'm ditching the stock location intercooler and am in the process of mocking up an angle mount down low and up front:





Motor mount was really yoinked Replaced it with a Yoshi mount on a 10mm spacer. Everything is good now.











Net up, the driveline was driving me nuts. Spent some time realigning the driveshaft by spacing things up and down and adjusting the pinion angle accordingly. Shortening the BNE torque rods all the way just did the trick. Also installed an Aerostar slip yoke, modded a T56 trans mount, and got installing. The car feels actually Liveable to drive now. After how many years of T5 misery, this felt like a breakthrough!














Went to a new local car meet. Donuts were a theme:









A heat wave came around. It was 100-120 for a week so I mostly sat around feeling hot and uncomfortable. My neighbor's truck:





Went on to do some adjustments to the rear axle and found this. Still haven't fixed anything; just hose clamped the parking brake cable because I could not be any less bothered...






Found some speakers that would sound good and fit the Bertone door cards without cutting anything. Filling and sealing the door cavities made for an incredible boost in sound quality








Fatefully, a couple weeks ago, feeling pretty good, I decided that it was time to turn the boost up. According to my logs, the car is making Somewhere in the 415 bhp range at 18 psi. Nice. Fatefully, also that weekend...










Then...








Last edited by Harlard; 08-31-2021 at 10:56 PM..
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Old 08-18-2021, 08:49 PM   #1559
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Oh well. That would wait. Aug 4 we went to Alaska for a week to visit Quin and Andy (and Mark, nice to mee you!!!) and fix their ****boxes. Great times were had.










Last edited by Harlard; 08-31-2021 at 10:56 PM..
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Old 08-19-2021, 12:00 AM   #1560
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Things got slightly out of hand again. The engine popped a couple weeks ago on my way back home from a meet. Only got around to investigating last weekend. Turns out that what I thought was a head gasket failure on cylinder 1 due to a fuel pressure drop event was not quite the cause of failure (still a concern, but one that I’m going to kick down the road until the weather gets ugly and the garage gets a bit cozier).

Turns out three factors are at play that need to be addressed:

Cause of engine failure was a broken injector driver for cylinder 3. Thankfully bottom end is mostly fine. There was enough accelerated wear for compression on it to drop 15 psi, and for the hole to drain oil much faster than the others. See the second picture. The fix was pretty straightforward. There was a spare MS3X expansion card on my shelf so I popped that in. Almost magically, the injector pulses normally again.

Leaky intake valve in cylinder 1. This should have been fixed before I reinstalled the head 2 years ago. I’m a dingus that forgot he got the engine a bit too toasty on the first start and didn’t double check for leakage when it was apart the last time. The local cylinder head shop ground the seat again and we are back in business.

eBay turbo has axial shaft play. Having dealt with catastrophic turbo failures in the past, I decided to do a partial exchange with the ebay vendor for a billet/BB version of the same turbo. There’s a Borgwarner S252-SXE waiting in the shelf, but the manifold for that thing is still in R&D and I don’t want to go through the process of adapting it to the current manifold just to have to cut and weld a bunch of components shortly after. Bolt-on is the way to go for now. I’m also curious to have a more or less direct comparison.

While I'm in there, a Pro-vent goes in, the Yoshifab catch can goes out, and a PC680 battery takes place of the big ol stocker.
















Last edited by Harlard; 08-31-2021 at 10:55 PM..
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Old 08-19-2021, 03:11 AM   #1561
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w00! What are you showing us with the pictures of the block and pistons? I’m on my phone and don’t notice anything obviously of concern.

So, yes there was a loan head gasket but the compression was from the bad valve seating? This setup has had low(er) compression on one cylinder for a while, right?

Anywho, bummer on the injector driver failure and all the work.

Oh, and why the intercooler change out?

That being said, yay for fixes! Maybe there’s a dyno in your future?

Also, maybe another trip to the strip and maybe I can make it out… Fingers crossed. It’d be nice to drive my junker again one day this year. Probably won’t race it as it’ll make your slow look fast.

Speaking of your slow, have you considered weighing your fat, luxe beast recently? Maybe it’s part of why it’s so slow. Oh, and because of the cams.
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Old 08-19-2021, 09:18 AM   #1562
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pro-vents put in work let me tell ya. You draining it back to the sump?
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Old 08-19-2021, 09:28 AM   #1563
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w00! What are you showing us with the pictures of the block and pistons? I’m on my phone and don’t notice anything obviously of concern.
I've done that before on a motor with the head already off, as a sort of half-assed condition check on the rings. Pour oil at even heights into all 4 cylinders, and let it sit for a while. See if any cylinder empties out faster than the others. If one stands out, pull that piston and see what's up.
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Old 08-19-2021, 01:51 PM   #1564
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Carbon build-up in the rings can also affect that, so putting something that can break it down in there while apart is a good idea, too. Now that I'm on the computer I can see that there's a lot of fluid in there. Whatcha up to, Harlard?
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Old 08-19-2021, 02:02 PM   #1565
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
w00! What are you showing us with the pictures of the block and pistons? I’m on my phone and don’t notice anything obviously of concern.

So, yes there was a loan head gasket but the compression was from the bad valve seating? This setup has had low(er) compression on one cylinder for a while, right?

Anywho, bummer on the injector driver failure and all the work.

Oh, and why the intercooler change out?

That being said, yay for fixes! Maybe there’s a dyno in your future?

Also, maybe another trip to the strip and maybe I can make it out… Fingers crossed. It’d be nice to drive my junker again one day this year. Probably won’t race it as it’ll make your slow look fast.

Speaking of your slow, have you considered weighing your fat, luxe beast recently? Maybe it’s part of why it’s so slow. Oh, and because of the cams.
Man, so many questions!!

Yes, #1 has always been down, but it went a further 30 psi from last test. I probably overheated the head during the first test start, which caused the valve to leak. We'll see whether the fixed valve brings back 60 PSI. I'm out of ideas otherwise.

More on the injector driver failure below...

Intercooler in the stock location crazy heat soaks between radiator and AC condenser on warm days

Maybe dyno. It's expensive to tune and this combination is already going to be replaced by a stroker block and a more turbine flow-optimized turbo setup, so the value proposition is not entirely there for me at present.

Hoping for at least one night at PIR in September. Judging by how hot and dry this year has been so far, I expect late night drags to go until November

As for slow and fat...yeah I need to borrow Marc's scales. This unscheduled teardown has gotten in the way somewhat.


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I've done that before on a motor with the head already off, as a sort of half-assed condition check on the rings. Pour oil at even heights into all 4 cylinders, and let it sit for a while. See if any cylinder empties out faster than the others. If one stands out, pull that piston and see what's up.
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Carbon build-up in the rings can also affect that, so putting something that can break it down in there while apart is a good idea, too. Now that I'm on the computer I can see that there's a lot of fluid in there. Whatcha up to, Harlard?

Yeah it's a half assed ring leakdown test. #3 was a bit alarming. It was down 15 psi from the last test, from last year. It drained a bit faster than 1 and 4. 2 is still holding its drink. I'll run another leakdown before the cams go in.

But yeah, I'm mildly concerned that the fuel wash on that hole may have hurt the rings a bit. Walls don't look terrible but they don't look great, either.

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pro-vents put in work let me tell ya. You draining it back to the sump?

Yes sir! It's going to go right in front of the master cylinder and will train into the Yoshifab plate. It's been sitting for literally years
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Old 08-19-2021, 03:59 PM   #1566
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I see! Make sure you duct between the condenser and radiator with the intercooler out of there now. Makes sense, though!
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Old 08-19-2021, 04:06 PM   #1567
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Way ahead of you there. It's been ducted for a while.
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Old 08-19-2021, 04:10 PM   #1568
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Can you go into more detail about your T5 speed sensor VSS?

What sensor did you end up using?

Did you need the Dakota box to convert the signal from the sensor into a digital signal for your MS? If so what sort of signal was the sensor out putting?

I plan on MaxxECU, and it has a note about setting max hz at 10000 *if* you don't have signal interference.

I planned on getting my signal from the T5 box. I saw some Mustangs used a speed signal and cable for cruise control. I contemplated trying that sensor with a Yoshi cable to start.

Sorry to see more problems. Hopfully it's just the valve.
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Old 08-19-2021, 04:21 PM   #1569
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It's just the way it works when you get in way over your knowledge and experience level. It happens to be the way I learn best, and thus a journey of personal growth...or something.

As for VSS I'm using an ABS wheel sensor up front (48t) and the stock 2004 Mustang VSS in the tailshaft of the trans (8t). This particular model does not use a cable speedometer drive. Both VSS1 and VSS2 use DIY Auto Tune conditioner circuits feeding my MS3X ECU. The problem is that the ECU itself can only handle 3 high speed digital inputs; 2 are used for cam and crank signal, the last one for VSS1. The problem now is that the channel leftover for VSS2 loses sync at roughly 80 mph. The input simply cannot handle it.

As for the cruise/cable combo sensor, you will need a different cable than what Josh offers. The clip is different on the trans side vs the plastic housing of the sensor. I ended up not using that on my previous transmission as it looked like the speedo cable would foul on the tunnel.

To drive my R-sport cluster, I have a Dakota Digital box with a custom made cable. The signal input is fed by one of the ignition outputs of the ECU.
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Old 08-20-2021, 03:48 AM   #1570
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It's just the way it works when you get in way over your knowledge and experience level. It happens to be the way I learn best, and thus a journey of personal growth...or something.

As for VSS I'm using an ABS wheel sensor up front (48t) and the stock 2004 Mustang VSS in the tailshaft of the trans (8t). This particular model does not use a cable speedometer drive. Both VSS1 and VSS2 use DIY Auto Tune conditioner circuits feeding my MS3X ECU. The problem is that the ECU itself can only handle 3 high speed digital inputs; 2 are used for cam and crank signal, the last one for VSS1. The problem now is that the channel leftover for VSS2 loses sync at roughly 80 mph. The input simply cannot handle it.

As for the cruise/cable combo sensor, you will need a different cable than what Josh offers. The clip is different on the trans side vs the plastic housing of the sensor. I ended up not using that on my previous transmission as it looked like the speedo cable would foul on the tunnel.

To drive my R-sport cluster, I have a Dakota Digital box with a custom made cable. The signal input is fed by one of the ignition outputs of the ECU.
Being way over your knowledge and experience level is how I got to where I am in my career.

I guess I better decide on a dash board/cluster/gauges/input I'm going to run since it seems to all be intertwined.

My really quick google search shows swapping output shafts and tail shaft housing to run a later VSS. That can't be correct is it? I'm mid vacation with a T5 half assembled on my bench at home. I'm going to have to figure this out before I get back and finish assembling it. Google to the rescue tomorrow I guess.
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Old 08-30-2021, 08:21 PM   #1571
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Being way over your knowledge and experience level is how I got to where I am in my career.

I guess I better decide on a dash board/cluster/gauges/input I'm going to run since it seems to all be intertwined.

My really quick google search shows swapping output shafts and tail shaft housing to run a later VSS. That can't be correct is it? I'm mid vacation with a T5 half assembled on my bench at home. I'm going to have to figure this out before I get back and finish assembling it. Google to the rescue tomorrow I guess.
The mainshafts and extension housings of the internal VSS transmissions are different. Certainly doable but from a cost standpoint it's much easier to get a 2004 V6 box.

As for the dash electronics: yes, I'd very much do some scenario planning before hitting the buy button!

For better or for worse I can't really make any direct application of this hobby toward my day job other than having a talking point when shooting the **** with coworkers. It is what it is.
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Old 08-31-2021, 11:34 PM   #1572
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Added quite a few little time-consuming items to my to-do list as they are much easier to tackle when big components are apart. Nothing too interesting; heater bypass hoses, hydraulic line routing, heat shielding, cleaning, cleaning, more cleaning, painting, polishing cam bearings/journals, improving the wire harness routing, adding a timing belt cover. At this point before firing it up, the few items left are adding water cooling to the turbo CHRA and the wastegate, making a new bracket for the power steering and new PCV box as they are mounted next to each other, and routing/clamping down all of the associated hoses. I might try running a little 680-sized AGM and clean up the wiring. Chances are that I’ll leave that project for later though.

At this point, leakdown numbers look awful. Fairly close to each other but awful nonetheless. #3 looks slightly hurt on account of getting washed down with fuel. I will have to test again once the engine gets a few minutes of runtime and the cylinders have a chance to reach operating temperature.

Valve leak was fixed. It impacted valve seat height significantly enough to be visible by naked eye….

New eBay turbo looks good; if the quality of the additional processes carried out compared to the old turbo are anything to go by, this one should hopefully last more than 5000 miles. It’s supposedly a GTX3071R Gen 2 clone as opposed to a journal bearing GT3071 (with what seems like a K27 compressor wheel). Seems a lot closer to the actual thing that it’s trying to knock off. The vendor graciously agreed to take $150 off asking price instead of doing a warranty repair on the old one (which cost $190 to begin with so hey, this makes fiscal sense in some way…right?). External dimensions and the turbine wheel are all identical so it bolted in with no fuss, which was very appealing at the moment. A new manifold and proper brand name turbo are in the works so I’ll happily avoid doing any extra fabrication between now and then.

Also, special thanks to Oldschoolvolvo for giving me the part numbers for the viton spark plug tube o-rings. Hopefully they, along with some Right Stuff, prevent any more oil seepage into the wells…









































































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Old 09-01-2021, 03:26 PM   #1573
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Updated the first post.
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Old 09-01-2021, 07:59 PM   #1574
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glad those o-rings could help you out
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Old 09-01-2021, 09:33 PM   #1575
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I love this car.

I don’t love the issues you’re having with it, but I love the car nonetheless.
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