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Old 06-13-2021, 10:39 AM   #101
cwdodson88
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You go into every thread hoping that you can talk over someone’s head spouting citations from doctors and their papers to make yourself feel better. So put the ruler down bud, your dick isn’t that big.

I personally don’t have to use Lexus’ motor, controller or gearbox for my project. I have the money to put together a solid reliable system with the components that I have my hands on 40 hours a week. I know them inside and out, both software and hardware, and I sit less than 100 feet from the engineers behind them. Don’t get me wrong, I know that I still have a lot more to learn, but to me, it looks like you’ve stopped learning and feel some unbearable need to convince yourself that you’re right.
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Old 06-13-2021, 10:48 AM   #102
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Why should I get the chip of my shoulder. The MC33035 chip is a great inverter solution for anyone capable. An engineering grad should def be if simple hobbyist are. If not why wouldn't he just buy what you use if reducing complication is a real goal? Not making much sense to post this Reinhart inverter but suggest a hack. Could it possibly be the PRICE!!!! If you post that it brings the phone world back to what is cost to be my friend....10-20k. Your controller takes care of the first 20% and at least Reinhart also knows what YASA is .....

you should tell them the inverter is > 5000.00 usd... and why you use it over a lexus hack. How is it im going imto threads when the ORIGINAL topic starter was me. This is just a spinoff created because instant experts like you dont wanna listen to facts like the MC33035 being a great idea for people who dont want to PURCHASE AN EXPENSIVE DRIVE. Clearly what was posted in response was wrong like alot of other things posted here like more fill with square wire on a stator with radial arms on round slot bottoms. You dont know because you've never wound a high performance FSCW machine or built an h bridge. There's really nothing you could teach me to be quite honest. Clearly if you sit behind the table of engineers that makes sense. Im glad the truth finally came out.

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Old 06-13-2021, 11:06 AM   #103
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I am going to threadjack the thread and propose to go back to answering the OP's questions as shown in the first post.
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Old 06-13-2021, 11:10 AM   #104
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I am going to threadjack the thread and propose to go back to answering the OP's questions as shown in the first post.

All for it but @ 2-3k when you post a inverter thats 6k does it suffice? And you dont know or want to accept cheaper diy EV solutions like a motor controlled IC that cost a few dollars to run it so what will he do?

I can drop the mic and you will see how quick the bs falls to the bottom @2-3K

Just itemize the turbobricks way




Regards
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Old 06-13-2021, 11:15 AM   #105
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At work 50 volts @ 5 milliamps or 10 Joules is the "safe" limit without additional and specific PPE. Anyway, a little more on the Volvo EV swap concerning safety.

I could have sworn the earlier Prius and other Hybrids had decals and warnings for the potential risks for emergency personal if your car was in an accident. I see no warnings at all on my Model Y.
Do they assume everyone knows it is an electric car? What about conversions? Besides using the bright orange cables for the 3 phase and other power cables should one put warning labels on their EV converted gas vehicle?

Anyone see the Model S Plaid unveiling last night? That new motor is impressive, so tiny yet so powerful. Cannot wait to see conversions using those setups from wrecked Plaid models.
50V? Seems low, like less than residential. Our high voltage limit is 600VAC (so effectively anything over 480 3ph). Does DC power really have that much lower of a limit?
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Old 06-13-2021, 11:20 AM   #106
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I never said it wasn’t a good idea, or potentially great solution for someone on a budget. But then again, someone on a budget walking through the yard looking for a Lexus gearbox to play with probably wouldn’t be so clueless as to take the gearbox without grabbing the controller while they’re at it.

It’s funny you mention yasa. Over the years I’ve built the generators for at least two of their current dyno rooms. And I don’t exactly sit at the table behind the engineering teams. The table is pretty round, so we usually sit across from each other.
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Old 06-13-2021, 11:26 AM   #107
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Good then you should know for 2-3K budget the lexus solution isnt even viable.... and stop falling apart at cheaper solutions. Sitting behind them was your words. Your seat has changed but not the challenges presented at budget. I plan to keep the MC33035 on my shoulder.

Anything 480 is def considered high voltage and requires a calorie suit and ppe be worn if you company doesnt require it until 600V they have no regard for your safety id quit!!! Sound like a bs factory to me. I don't know of any current ev that uses 50 volts for anything. A prius is 201 volts for instance.

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Old 06-13-2021, 11:27 AM   #108
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Swedbrick, which other donor vehicles can you find over there? The GS450h is interesting but may not be easily available or budget-friendly over there.

The Chinese hub wheels mean unsprung weight. I honestly do not know how bad it will be; do you know someone who has tried it so we can learn without spending a dime? It claims to have a speed limit; I wonder if it can run, powered off, at higher speeds without being damaged. In other words, a city drive kinda thingie.

I have seen in the used (you will need to do some normalizing one your own) market battery packs for, say, a Prius for under $1000. But, a Prius on electric power only has a 2mi range. As others said, that is where most of your budget will go.

Do you have goals for this conversion, like range and speed?

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Old 06-13-2021, 11:44 AM   #109
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I never said it wasn’t a good idea, or potentially great solution for someone on a budget. But then again, someone on a budget walking through the yard looking for a Lexus gearbox to play with probably wouldn’t be so clueless as to take the gearbox without grabbing the controller while they’re at it.

It’s funny you mention yasa. Over the years I’ve built the generators for at least two of their current dyno rooms. And I don’t exactly sit at the table behind the engineering teams. The table is pretty round, so we usually sit across from each other.




Its funny you didn't but mention u sit at tables with Hendrik Vansompel, Peter Sergeant, Luc Dupr´e, and Alex Van den Bossche if you had the hybrid wind shouldn't be new to you. It uses it so certainly you had discussions with them about how well it worked with their machine if you are a top "motor designer" a difference between that and assembly....please don't mix facts. You sit at the table where you work at which certainly isn't with the creators of YASA. Are you ready for the bottom CD? Its coming soon enuf. The budget proposal alone lets me know not to waste any more of my time here. U are free to waste all yours and go for it...


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Old 06-13-2021, 11:56 AM   #110
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Its funny you didn't but mention u sit at tables with Hendrik Vansompel, Peter Sergeant, Luc Dupr´e, and Alex Van denBossche if you had the hybrid wind shouldn't be new to you IT USES IT ..please dont mix facts. You sit at the table where you work at which certainly isn't with the creators of YASA. Are you ready for the bottom? Its coming soon enuf.

Never said I’ve sat down the the creators of yasa. So please don’t mix facts. I do however follow their work and I have been involved in supplying them components they use to continue the progression of their work.
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Old 06-13-2021, 12:04 PM   #111
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Ok because this looks like a mixture to me. And the mix was never mine to begin with.

"It’s funny you mention yasa. Over the years I’ve built the generators for at least two of their current dyno rooms. And I don’t exactly sit at the table behind the engineering teams. The table is pretty round, so we usually sit across from each other"

But dont worry I know you haven't sat down with them anywhere. You kind of made it sound like they needed you to design a generator which def isnt true. They may have contracted out something elementary to them, but thats about it. YASA itself would be on helluva generator....

Anywho Im ready to learn here so I await the 2-3k build using lexus parts. In your own heart you know yourself how possible this is really going to be no matter how much you hate me. At least I respect the inverter you posted as they seem to be aware of the better motors out there.
Later
Hubert

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Old 06-13-2021, 12:10 PM   #112
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I love the fact the OP of this thread asked for an E option in the Tbricks style. As asked, so delivered. This is nothing but an E-peen measuring contest! lol
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Old 06-13-2021, 12:16 PM   #113
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I love the fact the OP of this thread asked for an E option in the Tbricks style. As asked, so delivered. This is nothing but an E-peen measuring contest! lol
"Theoretical benchrace budget let's say 2-3k including some Chevy volt batteries, or a DIY laptop battery pack. Tesla stuff is also good but $$$ from what I've seen, in a wagon the spare wheel well should provide plenty of space with decent weight distribution
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To bad the phone world is severely lacking in every regard to propose a build thats immediately over the OPs budget!!! This great turbobrick insight comes after inquiring about a brushed DC motor for you own build. You've never done it yourself u just ran out and read something quickly. If you had real knowledge u wouldn't inquire with me about a brushed motor. The shortest piss is when people who haven't a clue try to post **** they read in the phone world to argue with people that do from real experience. The turbobricks way already a bust at his budget. Use as much bandwidth as you need to figure it out. I wont because I know what happens here in reality. He's been given a great drive option that certainly fits better with his budjet and assumed skillset. If he's an engineer he can handle this himself. He does not have to rely on a jy shelf like you especially when it isnt cheaper. U will see soon enuf the waste of time all this is.... I return to my statement about efficiency . For me I knew right then what this was going to amount to.

BS!!!!
It doesn't take rocket science to figure it out when a person starts off saying they want to build an electric vehicle but they are not concerned with 20 points of efficiency. Im as moronic as the others here who'd even reply. That is the reality of it. Lexus in texas, Volvo, Tesla or any other EV producer wouldn't even waste their time in such a ridiculous discussion about an ev not involving efficiency. Real motor designers know their eyes are all on the IEEE's new hybrid winds and machines like the PMFS I tried to show you to make their ALL their current motors smaller and more efficient with less dependence on expen$ive rare earth via (Xi). I know at least 70 million Americans haven't a clue about alternative fuels vehicles or the impact they have on climate change especially Texans... its all a myth in their Q phone world anyway....the biggest bag of Pervitin ever sold to or consumed anyone!!!

Yasa headquarters is actually in the UK. So request a sample for your project and see if you receive parts for a GS450h
https://www.yasa.com/contact/

"YASA’s axial flux approach uses less materials such as copper, iron and permanent magnet, than conventional motors, resulting in a significantly lower BOM cost and a more environmentally-sustainable product."

~YASA~



Goodbye,
Hubert

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Old 06-13-2021, 02:52 PM   #114
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Swedbrick, which other donor vehicles can you find over there? The GS450h is interesting but may not be easily available or budget-friendly over there.

The Chinese hub wheels mean unsprung weight. I honestly do not know how bad it will be; do you know someone who has tried it so we can learn without spending a dime? It claims to have a speed limit; I wonder if it can run, powered off, at higher speeds without being damaged. In other words, a city drive kinda thingie.

I have seen in the used (you will need to do some normalizing one your own) market battery packs for, say, a Prius for under $1000. But, a Prius on electric power only has a 2mi range. As others said, that is where most of your budget will go.

Do you have goals for this conversion, like range and speed?
From a quick search the Lexus are available here, I found a gearbox on my usual 2nd hand parts site for a ask us price. Looking at UK eBay they come in around 500£ which would allow for 1-2k in batteries and other connecting hardware.

I can say unsprung weight has a big effect, my big brake conversion was noticeable in how the suspension felt on faster bumps. Those hub motors will also replace the brake system by ****ty motorcycle brakes so that is a bit of a downside. I believe the maximum speed of the motors would also be derived from the hub not spinning apart, up to some point, the cogging torque of the motor would probably hardly be limiting.

My goals for the conversion would mostly to get some better milage and learn something in the process. Given everyone's input I don't think full EV mode would be feasible. I still want to build a Volvo 340/360 at some point so that might be a better basis being half the weight
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Old 06-13-2021, 02:57 PM   #115
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750 usd for the transmission now what about the money for a motor and inverter? Its not gonna happen but an induction motor has no cogging torque to begin with and neither does a synchronous reluctance machine. Cogging torque is a result of the pole and slot geometry in a PMAC or DC machine. Its isnt relevant there in slotless designs either. Wind topology, LCM and GCD decide the cogging torque. But better winds negate torque ripple change the cogging torque and reduce iron losses. If getting better mileage is a goal how will one ignore efficiency? U see this immediately is a wash.....then when you've been shown how 1 point of efficiency changes the throughput power . I have seen only 1 % make a difference of 2 or 3 mph in smaller traction devices. You will not make budget without some DIY spirit. Time will tell. You wouldn't need brakes if the hub motor was designed with the right application in mind. You wont brake better than the Bemf. Taming the braking would be more of an issue than not having any. This is why synchronous rectification becomes important in high efficiency inverters. This is where differences in inverter design pays dividends.

Regards
Hubert

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Old 06-13-2021, 03:18 PM   #116
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All I'm here for is to learn a thing or two about EV's. If you can provide a brief overview of motor types/systems with some +/- sides please do. But keep in mind most of us don't have 10 years of experience in the field, nor understand half of the terms you are throwing.

I created this thread for some discussion away from the 'has anyone done an eBrick yet?' thread. For us scrap hunting simpletons
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Old 06-13-2021, 03:21 PM   #117
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I don't get it why would you come here to learn about EV's from novice if you already taken part in building a vehicle with hydrogen fuel cell on an academic level. And there's nothing anyone here will show you that will meet your goals at 3 grand especially if you cannot build anything. It doesn't add up my friend. Scrap hunting is worthless if its beyond your budget that almost nothing can be built at. Certainly nothing with a goal of great mileage come from it. If you are a senior in engineering the terminology used should be child's play. What is your field of study in Engineering? No matter how many threads are started I wont let comments like the one about the IC pass simply because it is incorrect and would ruin the point of even coming here for advice on the subject matter. You cannot run from the truth of efficiency and the HUGE role it plays in EV design to accomplish things like extended range. Every point counts in this world!!! Do yourself a favor and visit the University of Bundeswehr In Munich EV motor pages if you really want to learn how to build an EV or ask your professors. They def know. Im fine if you choose something else but @ 3K I think you'll be floundering here for several hundred pages. I just hate to see that waste of time. Not trying to be funny but the person that pointed you in that direction truly knows nothing about building an EV thats why he ponders a conventional brushed dc motor for his own. Just be careful whos advice you decide to follow anyone at EV's would never go there....

Carry on.
Im good with it.
Hubert

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Old 06-13-2021, 03:42 PM   #118
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All I'm here for is to learn a thing or two about EV's. If you can provide a brief overview of motor types/systems with some +/- sides please do. But keep in mind most of us don't have 10 years of experience in the field, nor understand half of the terms you are throwing.

I created this thread for some discussion away from the 'has anyone done an eBrick yet?' thread. For us scrap hunting simpletons
There are inexpensive high voltage controllers. Some more user friendly than others. Sevcon makes more than a few flavors under 1k usd in the used market, eBay, Craigslist, etc. Theyre surprising good for the $. Call it the “Holley sniper efi” of the ev conversion motor controller. They are somewhat limited to type of motor as far as what firmware is currently available, but they do offer some level of support and beta firmware packs for this type of conversion.

Building your own controller is doable. And budget friendly, but working out the kinks as to what you’re controlling is an easy way to pull your hair out and make things more complex than they need be.

Spending some cash up front can mostly get these things out of the way. Making the conversion more user friendly. Use motor XXX, with firmware pack B, and pack voltage between D-F, and you will get net results.

Going full junkyard… well, take it all. Use wrecked ev to power un-driven wheels. Easier with a fwd than rwd.
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Old 06-13-2021, 04:10 PM   #119
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Your now at 1700.00 of uncertainty and haven't brought a motor or batteries yet.

Anywhoo If you do nothing please read closely what I initially posted about efficiency. It has to be relevant. Swedebrick no thread spin off will change it.

ssume that the motor has an efficiency η = 0.900 and can process an input power of 5.0 kW. This means that (1 - 0.9) × 5 kW = 500 watts of excess heat can be dissipated. By pressing in thicker wire (and / or using better segmented stator iron magnets) the efficiency increases to 0.933. The motor's ability to lose those 500 watts has not changed (through radiation, convection, and conduction). This means that the motor can now handle 7.5 kW before it reaches the loss limit of 500 watts (0.066 × 7.5 kW).
An efficiency from 90 to 93.3% means an increase in performance of 50%, a factor of 1.5. This is why efficiency plays such an important role in every motor concept: the efficiency determines the maximum output. All of this on the assumption that the iron is not saturated.
A pretty extreme example, just for computational / fun reasons: an increase in efficiency from 80% to 90% would increase the input power the motor can handle by a factor of 2. However, if the efficiency can be increased from 90% to 95%, the input power also increases by a factor of 2.


General case
A change from efficiency ηold to efficiency ηnew would result in an increase in the maximum engine power by a factor of N.
N = (1 - eta old) / (1 - eta new)

Copper as thick as possible for ...
higher efficiency
more efficient
lower speed drop under load
lower losses
lower temperature requires less cooling

For testing the same engine sizes e.g. Define a power, for example 35 volts and 100 amps, and tape off all cooling options (tape tape around the fan openings and the motor to a plywood sheet, against heat dissipation e.g. with aluminum). Let the motor run at this power for 2 minutes and then immediately set the temperatures at different Measure places. Therefore set the cooling to zero if possible, otherwise a better cooling fan design keeps the motor cool but the power loss can still be quite high. Otherwise you wouldn't recognize that.

You take care
I watch with interest to see what you will accomplish within your constraints and ignoring things you dont think matter much. It goes against everything you have been taught. The ideas that this is where it's at is totally regressive on your part.

Hubert

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Old 06-13-2021, 04:30 PM   #120
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From a quick search the Lexus are available here, I found a gearbox on my usual 2nd hand parts site for a ask us price. Looking at UK eBay they come in around 500£ which would allow for 1-2k in batteries and other connecting hardware.
My main reason to suggest that transmission is that for a RWD project (1) it is not terribly expensive, and (2) it has been done already (it is a known quantity)

https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...on-142946.html
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threa...ustang.204063/

And the controller is available with a forum you can get help at

https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lex...ter-Controller
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Lexus_GS450h_Inverter
https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbm...s450h-bare-pcb
https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbm...lt-boards-copy

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My goals for the conversion would mostly to get some better milage and learn something in the process. Given everyone's input I don't think full EV mode would be feasible. I still want to build a Volvo 340/360 at some point so that might be a better basis being half the weight
Another alternative is, if you have access to the tools (I currently don't) is to, as cwdodson88 suggested, grab a FWD setup, be it full EV or hybrid. And either slap on a 340/360 or make it fit on your current project. If you put that on the rear -- damn the back seat -- you can fill the front with batteries (which may not be interesting in a crash). There are a lot of examples of people shoving Prius and Leaf drivetrains into different chassis.

If you need some junkyard inspiration, go to grassrootsmotorsports.com and look in their challenge car projects.

The way I see it, if you do not end up with something as awful as the Gee Whiz you are doing great.
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Old 06-14-2021, 12:11 AM   #121
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It's way over budget, but here are some really rough and optomistic cost guesses to convert a 240/740/940 RWD brick to a very basic full EV using a donor Lexus GS450H.

Let's start with a salvage Lexus GS450H with a fully working e-drivetrain - maybe $2500 if you're lucky. This will give us the e-motor transmission, inverter, transmission pump, and some (probably) aged wimpy batteries. Maybe an e-gas pedal, and whatever is used to sense regenerative-braking/full hydraulic braking too.
https://erepairables.com/salvage-car.../lexus/gs+450h
https://www.copart.com/vehicle-search-model/lexus/gs450

You'll need to add an aftermarket VCU controller board, say $450 with a case and wiring harness
https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbm...gs450h-vcm-kit

Add a custom driveshaft for $200?
You'll need a inverter cooling system, say $150???
And something to drive the power steering, say $150???
Assume no cabin heat and no air conditioning for now.

The donor is a hybrid, not a full EV, so you'll need some sort of slow charging system, say $300??? I don't know what a home fast charging station would add.

And you'll want more/better salvage batteries, so at least another $500??? And some big wires, contactors, fuses, mounting bits & bobs, etc, maybe $400???

If you have space, you can try to part out what's left of the donor Lexus (unfortunately, not a common model), plus the redblock engine, tranny, ECU/EZK, etc, and get some money back to help with other expenses.

What else am I missing? Does the Lexus donor include something to generate 12volts for all the standard vehicle electricals?

$2500 salvage Lexus GS450H
$450 VCU and harness
$200 driveshaft
$300 cooling, steering
$300 charging system
$500 more batteries
$400 wiring, misc electrical
------
~$4700 - $? partout of Lexus and no longer needed brick parts

Which gets you a (barely) driveable e-brick, with limited range, maybe limited top speed, no A/C, no heat, and lots of questionable DIY content that can leave you stranded on the side of the road. Safety will be bad due to non-factory front and back battery packs.
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Old 06-14-2021, 07:09 AM   #122
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Thank you for all the input, the lexus transmission seems to be a really cool option, I just read through the links you provided, the available VCU kits and the usability of the oem inverter would save a lot of work. A volvo 340/360 has its transmission on the rear wheels, so a 240/740/940 might be a better basis to start with in the case of the lexus conversion. That would make for 2 future projects, given that my current car just got a rebuild m90.

I also took a look into the sevcon controllers, the optional accessory control would be cool to have, holley for EV indeed Cwdodson88 feel free to share some more details of your own project as well, it sounds like a pretty cool setup we could learn from!

As for the merit of building my own controller I've done it previously at the cost of many expensive 110A fets Somewhere at the end of high school before heading to uni, I build this ugly wooden go-kart, from a used hospital bed motor and controller from which I stole the power fets to create a parallel H-bridge setup. It had full regen braking, fast-PWM speed control and ran of 24V from 2 car batteries, I was planning on building a capacitor step-up converter, which ended up never happening with the project being at my parents and me being at university.


It had a suprising amount of torque, and could climb about everything with the batteries at the center of gravity. Top speed was around 18km/h, which is why I intended to step up to 48V to get some more speed out of it. Old potato phone footage:


The idea of building some sort of alternator/belt drive on the accessory side of the engine still appeals to me, as it would allow for a simple low investment upgrade for many platforms. If that could take part of say half of the power required for cruising, it would already be able to add quite some mileage gains. I recall reading somewhere that cruising is around 35hp, so say we add 20hp = 15kw for a 2 hour drive at 60mph or 100km/h, we would need a 30kwh battery pack assuming 100% efficiency.

Looking into EV-battery options, that will be around 3.5k if we go for a leaf II battery,:
https://evshop.eu/en/13-batteries

Given that this setup would half the fuel consumption, it might be worth a try for a daily. Assuming you keep the thing for 5 years, with around 12eu per 100km's in consumption, a 6k total budget (2.5k for all the other stuff) would only work out if you are able to do 100.000km/5y = 20.000km per year. Something that I for one would hardly manage with my project car, so I'm not certain if it's even wise to take on
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Old 06-14-2021, 07:20 AM   #123
dalek
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Your electric go cart is pretty cool (it still way better than a Gee Whiz), but now you need to one up it and build an electric bar stool
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Old 06-14-2021, 07:32 AM   #124
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Your electric go cart is pretty cool (it still way better than a Gee Whiz), but now you need to one up it and build an electric bar stool
Haha, I'm down for that, battery down low so even the drunkest driver can manage to stay up
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Old 06-14-2021, 10:43 AM   #125
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I also took a look into the sevcon controllers, the optional accessory control would be cool to have, holley for EV indeed Cwdodson88 feel free to share some more details of your own project as well, it sounds like a pretty cool setup we could learn from!

The idea of building some sort of alternator/belt drive on the accessory side of the engine still appeals to me, as it would allow for a simple low investment upgrade for many platforms. If that could take part of say half of the power required for cruising, it would already be able to add quite some mileage gains. I recall reading somewhere that cruising is around 35hp, so say we add 20hp = 15kw for a 2 hour drive at 60mph or 100km/h, we would need a 30kwh battery pack assuming 100% efficiency.

Something that I for one would hardly manage with my project car, so I'm not certain if it's even wise to take on
My project is hopefully moving from CAD to metal this winter. I have a few a pretty good stack of parts stockpiled. CAD for the rear subchassis is moving from CAD to the bender this fall. The local CC just set up a cnc bender in their Manufacturing Technology center. So I'll be submitting prints for all the bends for the students to use to learn DIN/ANSI/ISO/JIS tolerance schemes, and print reading. Hoping that they don't screw up too much of my material, but it should turn out pretty good. I've been playing with their bender of the last few weeks to get a feel for what tolerances it can hold, and repeat. I'll play with it some more over the summer.

Something that I've been playing with is utilizing a speed density map for the ICE side to deliver commands to an inverter. Most OEM systems have a 0-5v e-throttle, and you'd be looking at ~0-1.5v being regen braking, 1.6-5v being torque application. So setting up a megasquirt to deliver a 0-5v signal off a spare table, also trying to utilize an arduino to interpret where the ice is in its VE map to deliver torque commands to the inverter/controller.

Looking at the e-alternator (Motor Generator Units), there are some flavors of 48v stop start function MGU's out there and showing up in JYs. They can be a little limited in both tq and rpm when run off of 48v, but both the windings and insulation can handle being overvolted to deal with the rpm limits created by back EMF. Through some of my testing on some prototype units, I was able to run at 350v nominal DC bus voltages with no appearent degradation. At these voltages, the rpm limitation was hugely affected, moving the revs past the capacity of the gear reduction it was attached to. Great thing, torque increased significantly, and the point where torque taper began (torque knee, break speed, whatever you want to call it) was surprisingly higher when compared to 48v.

That motor got beat up on my dyno, and it never flinched. I ran it well outside of its temp ranges, current ranges, and up to 7x line voltage. It still runs just as hard as it did before testing. Since then, theres a few more tests that we plan on seeing what long term running does to it.

Last edited by cwdodson88; 06-14-2021 at 11:58 AM..
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