home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > performance & modifications

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-18-2021, 11:32 AM   #301
Swedbrick
Board Member
 
Swedbrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Netherlands, Source of Grolsch
Default

What about stacking them, given the 2 sided flange, with a few at 13hp each.
__________________
Volvo 745 - IPD springs, 25mm/19mm swaybars, T-cam, LH2.4, M90 swap, 3.54 \w racingdiff lsd, track/daily
---------------------------------
I sell LH2.4 Chips for Europe!

Last edited by Swedbrick; 06-18-2021 at 12:17 PM..
Swedbrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2021, 11:42 AM   #302
culberro
Ronald Culberbone III
 
culberro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Default

Before jumping into a Curtis controller, I will caution you that they cannot be used with just any e-motor. They've made it so you have to send in your particular EM and have their controller setup to it.
Downside, it's expensive if you are using a motor that has not been used with a Curtis controller.
Upside, it takes about 5min of setup to get a EM moving with their controllers.

You can also buy the controller direct, as well as the Motenergy motors, this will save you ~$500-800 usually.

Some of the legacy AC curtis controllers can run a PMAC or AC motor without sending the EM to the factory, but they're just not as efficient. This is what Thunderstruck does with their 16kW brushless kit, which is still a really good kit to be used as supplied!

If you want something more megasquirt-y, I'd recommend a Vedder or Sevcon as they are fully user configurable with respect to the motor type and physics.
Something like a 250 or 300A controller should be more than adequate for the DIY'er doing a hydrid system: https://trampaboards.com/vesc--c-1434.html
__________________
Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid.
culberro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2021, 11:51 AM   #303
culberro
Ronald Culberbone III
 
culberro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Default

The GM Sierra e-assist setup looks pretty sweet, and it has a battery pack that's not gigantic.

http://elmoto.net/showthread.php?t=2676

https://www.wheels.ca/news/gmc-intro...-with-eassist/
culberro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2021, 12:18 PM   #304
cwdodson88
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Dalles, Oregon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
The GM Sierra e-assist setup looks pretty sweet, and it has a battery pack that's not gigantic.

http://elmoto.net/showthread.php?t=2676

https://www.wheels.ca/news/gmc-intro...-with-eassist/
Now I'm curious to see what we are selling the BW hvh146 for. Basic construction of these GM e-assist, and we have firmware for PM/RM series inverters. I already know that they'll run 350v.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikep View Post
Build it, break it, build what broke stronger, lather, rinse, repeat.

The Build Thread
SVEA - PUSHROD TURBO!
cwdodson88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2021, 02:38 PM   #305
bobxyz
Board Member
 
bobxyz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Boulder CO
Default

Can you tune a hybrid setup if the gas engine uses a traditional cable actuated throttle body? Seems like it would be pretty difficult since the airflow isn't electronically adjustable, and the power contribution from the electric motor will vary greatly.

[In other words, is step 0 of a hybrid conversion to convert the gas engine to DBW throttle, with a fancy DBW-capable aftermarket ECU?]
bobxyz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2021, 02:54 PM   #306
dalek
Benchracer Tribe
 
dalek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Orange Alert, NC
Default

I think that would mean electrical motor is the engine's support staff. Ex: you mash the pedal you know where throttle is and that the engine will take some time to get to open wide mode. So you can tell the motor to fill the gaps in the engine's curve and reaction time
__________________
"you can't leave your thingy hanging in public... you can get arrested."
"What's Arkansas supposed to be, Kansas for pirates?" Forg
"I think I can touch the tire. Damn! I can touch the tire! That hurts!" 240Psycho (on the back seat of my 94 Jetta while I was driving to a J/Y)
"Use the barbed adapter like what I use to inflate the air camping mattresses and my dates." FTF Engineering
i am inspired. i will replace my windsheild... with an intercooler.swedishK
Feedback!
dalek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2021, 03:00 PM   #307
cwdodson88
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Dalles, Oregon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
Can you tune a hybrid setup if the gas engine uses a traditional cable actuated throttle body? Seems like it would be pretty difficult since the airflow isn't electronically adjustable, and the power contribution from the electric motor will vary greatly.

[In other words, is step 0 of a hybrid conversion to convert the gas engine to DBW throttle, with a fancy DBW-capable aftermarket ECU?]
I wouldnt even go there if you have stand alone running on the IC. Megasquirt2 and up will broadcast engine state over the CAN bus. So taking an arduino, and feeding in your engines current state from the MS (well, select messages like current VE table location, accel TPSdot or MAPdot active/inactive and %enrich, etc) and having arduino convert that into commands to the inverter. Then you have tabled commands based off the engines whereabouts. So engine speed 3000rpm@220kpa tells controller I need you to give me 300nm of tq. Or tip in override, 300nm+%based off of accel enrich.

Go one step further and have an arduino sending command adjustments based of pack state of charge. Having it make adjustments to regen, and tq values based off the were the pack is. Kinda like youd do with CLT/AIT correction.

The difficult part would be tuning.
cwdodson88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2021, 03:05 PM   #308
bobxyz
Board Member
 
bobxyz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Boulder CO
Default

Thanks, that setup makes sense and is much easier than converting to a DBW throttle. As you say, tuning may be difficult. If it helps, in theory, you can tune MegaSquirt to do accel enrichment using only MAPdot. This frees up the TPSdot table for use by the electric assist system. You'd need to run the original TPS signal through the Arduino, and modify it as needed for the desired TPSdot accel/decel fueling corrections before sending it on to the MegaSquirt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Megasquirt2 and up will broadcast engine state over the CAN bus. So taking an arduino, and feeding in your engines current state from the MS...
Yeah, "been there done it already..." Hasn't everyone? I'd post the pictures but the dog photobucket ate them.















Nothing to see here now, please move along.














Just to prove that I'm no fool, here are the re-hosted pics (click for bigger). TBH, this is just snooping the MS dashboard broadcasts, it's not sending/receiving CANbus commands to MS.
bobxyz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2021, 04:05 PM   #309
hk 40
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: RTP, North Carolina
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Before jumping into a Curtis controller, I will caution you that they cannot be used with just any e-motor. They've made it so you have to send in your particular EM and have their controller setup to it.
Downside, it's expensive if you are using a motor that has not been used with a Curtis controller.
Upside, it takes about 5min of setup to get a EM moving with their controllers.

You can also buy the controller direct, as well as the Motenergy motors, this will save you ~$500-800 usually.

Some of the legacy AC curtis controllers can run a PMAC or AC motor without sending the EM to the factory, but they're just not as efficient. This is what Thunderstruck does with their 16kW brushless kit, which is still a really good kit to be used as supplied!

If you want something more megasquirt-y, I'd recommend a Vedder or Sevcon as they are fully user configurable with respect to the motor type and physics.
Something like a 250 or 300A controller should be more than adequate for the DIY'er doing a hydrid system: https://trampaboards.com/vesc--c-1434.html
A PMAC is an AC motor. You sure you don't mean induction or an SR machine as the other earth less alternative You need send your motor to curtis simply to enter in motor parameters in the inverter for you?? All your experience and u dont know how to acquire a motors parameters and enter them for yourself? If they charge alot for that and you pay thats tragic assemblers blues....

Swedebrick....

At 16 kw and these price points there are much better controllers out there. SR machines are also noisy as compared to the other machines. They also dont have the torque density of PM machines.

A 26 hp gas assist is the turbobricks way with your budget . I love it.....I rather run 10's. This is going to be miss Daisy's car. What an "EV" just use the stock alternator. Its already installed....


Last edited by hk 40; 06-19-2021 at 04:24 PM..
hk 40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2021, 05:27 PM   #310
mikep
The MP
 
mikep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: 38 27' N 75 29' W
Default

I’m back from vacation (moving something huge as a favor to a turbobricks member) and it seems i missed all the bragging and ****ting all over this thread.
Hugh, please use people’s actual names when you refer to them. Do not call them idiots. Do not act condescending or insulting. And keep it on topic.
__________________
mikep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2021, 06:58 PM   #311
cwdodson88
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Dalles, Oregon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
Thanks, that setup makes sense and is much easier than converting to a DBW throttle. As you say, tuning may be difficult. If it helps, in theory, you can tune MegaSquirt to do accel enrichment using only MAPdot. This frees up the TPSdot table for use by the electric assist system. You'd need to run the original TPS signal through the Arduino, and modify it as needed for the desired TPSdot accel/decel fueling corrections before sending it on to the MegaSquirt.
Yeah, "been there done it already..." Hasn't everyone? I'd post the pictures but the dog photobucket ate them.

Just to prove that I'm no fool, here are the re-hosted pics (click for bigger). TBH, this is just snooping the MS dashboard broadcasts, it's not sending/receiving CANbus commands to MS.
I was playing around with only using tpsDOT for positive torque tables, then straight overrun to pull negative tq. It’s a little harsh on those transitions and I think it would end up being jerky. So I started looking for ways to smooth it and came to the idea of being able to ramp in regen, and seems like a safer way to control energy flow back into the pack. Also nice to thought to have the emotor during sustained cruise and being able to lean out the ICE and gain some mpgs. So further development is in the works as far as setting tables and having a multiplier that uses state of charge to determine how much torque you get in either direction.

I just need my dyno at work freed up for a few evenings or weekends so I can get the controller and stim back on the rig for some more runs.
cwdodson88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 04:44 PM   #312
hk 40
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: RTP, North Carolina
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikep View Post
I’m back from vacation (moving something huge as a favor to a turbobricks member) and it seems i missed all the bragging and ****ting all over this thread.
Hugh, please use people’s actual names when you refer to them. Do not call them idiots. Do not act condescending or insulting. And keep it on topic.
Its on topic and fact that the TPS used with most modern ECU's is in essence at potentiometer which is not at all difficult to use in a "throttle by wire" input for an inverter based of the mc33035 or many others out there. Potentiometers are the most basic form of controlling inverters speed input. It's really simple.. But all this for 25hp e assistance is a poor management of money when a couple of bolt on parts will add 25hp for few hundred dollars.
.
Which moderator will be the first to purchase a MS or AEM anything from scratch to control a 26 hp e assist for well over 3 grand with a marginal controller? The idea is truly preposterous and having an opinion based on real experience in inverter and motor design isnt against any rules. When people make false claims about IC etc they set themselves up for the red face. So that is not my fault... Its no different with the ferrofluid or cryogenic cooling. They spoke on what they do not know about and were corrected.


Tell me Mike how can a HIGH QUALITY "curtis" have two RMS ratings for the same model controller? 190 amps rms times sqrt of 2 certainly isn't 550 amperes.... And if it can only run its rms amperage for 52-60 min how far can you drive it under significant load? Im sorry Mike but if a person cannot see the suspect in these controller specifications I don't have any other word to describe it but idiotic. All this advice has come with not one graph of efficiency or expected performance gain from the editors. All the MS and AEM chatter just sound like Swedbrick is being used to try someone else's hardly EV ideas that are not needed and a waste of limited cash. Neither of the editors have shown a single efficiency graph from anything THEY personally have created in this regard and will not use these suggestions in their own EV's because they and the companies they assemble for know nothing happens significantly at 3 racks off the shelf or in a JY....

I cannot do anything but laugh. It is just that simple Mike. But trust me I do not plan to waste my time to post any more real facts here. Its a wash and I stand by that. The suggestion to just use the alternator for e assist was a real one. You see not a bolts or been turned in any direction. You also see not a single thing EV has been purchased off the shelf or from a JY! Thats a clear indication the turbobricks way is a long way off from "EV" reality my friend. The editors should show him how its done and post a few graph of the result in the 25 hp performance upgrade at a price point unit per hp. That seems fair in any argument about the viability or practicality of TB bricks way. Even the Chinese EV stuff isnt cheap pricewise and that is just more reality they may as well swallow whole no matter what I post. Swedebrick wont spend over 3000 dollars for a 26 hp e assist unless hes cuu cuu for cocoa puffs and you wouldn't either...
.

Regards
Hubert
hk 40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 04:52 PM   #313
fatcatbestcat
Professional Hack
 
fatcatbestcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Mississauga, ON (Canada)
Default

I thought you were done?
__________________
Doing the wrong thing the right way.

-------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by redblockpowered View Post
Will you do $14.99 shipped?
Quote:
Originally Posted by IansPlatinum View Post
please no more prying things with screwdrivers and bashing things with hammers!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwazywazy View Post
my balls have more wrinkles than my brain
--------------------------------------------

-1967 144S
-1983 245 Diesel
fatcatbestcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 05:33 PM   #314
2manyturbos
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Monroe, OR USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
I thought you were done?
He is. For a week at least.
2manyturbos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 05:44 PM   #315
2manyturbos
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Monroe, OR USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hk 40 View Post
Its on topic and fact that the TPS used with most modern ECU's is in essence at potentiometer which is not at all difficult to use in a "throttle by wire" input for an inverter based of the mc33035 or many others out there. Potentiometers are the most basic form of controlling inverters speed input. It's really simple.. But all this for 25hp e assistance is a poor management of money when a couple of bolt on parts will add 25hp for few hundred dollars.
.
Which moderator will be the first to purchase a MS or AEM anything from scratch to control a 26 hp e assist for well over 3 grand with a marginal controller? The idea is truly preposterous and having an opinion based on real experience in inverter and motor design isnt against any rules. When people make false claims about IC etc they set themselves up for the red face. So that is not my fault... Its no different with the ferrofluid or cryogenic cooling. They spoke on what they do not know about and were corrected.


Tell me Mike how can a HIGH QUALITY "curtis" have two RMS ratings for the same model controller? 190 amps rms times sqrt of 2 certainly isn't 550 amperes.... And if it can only run its rms amperage for 52-60 min how far can you drive it under significant load? Im sorry Mike but if a person cannot see the suspect in these controller specifications I don't have any other word to describe it but idiotic. All this advice has come with not one graph of efficiency or expected performance gain from the editors. All the MS and AEM chatter just sound like Swedbrick is being used to try someone else's hardly EV ideas that are not needed and a waste of limited cash. Neither of the editors have shown a single efficiency graph from anything THEY personally have created in this regard and will not use these suggestions in their own EV's because they and the companies they assemble for know nothing happens significantly at 3 racks off the shelf or in a JY....

I cannot do anything but laugh. It is just that simple Mike. But trust me I do not plan to waste my time to post any more real facts here. Its a wash and I stand by that. The suggestion to just use the alternator for e assist was a real one. You see not a bolts or been turned in any direction. You also see not a single thing EV has been purchased off the shelf or from a JY! Thats a clear indication the turbobricks way is a long way off from "EV" reality my friend. The editors should show him how its done and post a few graph of the result in the 25 hp performance upgrade at a price point unit per hp. That seems fair in any argument about the viability or practicality of TB bricks way. Even the Chinese EV stuff isnt cheap pricewise and that is just more reality they may as well swallow whole no matter what I post. Swedebrick wont spend over 3000 dollars for a 26 hp e assist unless hes cuu cuu for cocoa puffs and you wouldn't either...
.

Regards
Hubert
You will have a week off to laugh to your heart's content. During that time, try to figure out what condescending means before making any more posts anywhere on this board. Your next post could be your last. Something to think about.
2manyturbos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 06:46 PM   #316
HiSPL
Fanking Champion 1993
 
HiSPL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: College Station, TX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dalek
What about the electric motor sandwiched between the Honda Insight's engine and transmission?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swedbrick View Post
What about stacking them, given the 2 sided flange, with a few at 13hp each.
The housing wouldn't be diy-friendly. It's built in to the bellhousing area of the motor. you'd have to either rebuild the stator housing from scratch, or figure out a way to slice it off the engine block.

On the plus side, there's a K-swapped Insights facebook group. I would imagine there's some nearly free insight motors to be had from those guys.


Also, the Insight's e-motor was reported to be 13 horse, but nobody really knows for sure and all the experiments done to run it harder and longer never approached it's breaking point thermally. It's fairly large. It may be able to be run indefinitely at 50+ HP but nobody yet knows.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 240240 View Post
Beets taste like buttfeet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lando
Tinnitus and hearing loss? Sounds like your ears could tolerate some Bose 901s!
88 244
06 XC90 V8
03 V70
HiSPL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 07:29 PM   #317
dalek
Benchracer Tribe
 
dalek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Orange Alert, NC
Default

I too wonder how much more power you can get out of that insight if you come up with a cooling system for it.
dalek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 08:09 PM   #318
cwdodson88
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Dalles, Oregon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dalek View Post
I too wonder how much more power you can get out of that insight if you come up with a cooling system for it.
Its definitely surprising how much more time at current you get when you can keep things cool.

I will admit, after some research into hk40s ferrofluid ideas, its got a positive trajectory. I think that its possible that something like that could work. Id just be interested in seeing what that would do long term to the insulation. Both of the ferrofluid itself and the windings, not to mention bearings. Seems likely that some breakdown would be inevitable. But I dunno, Im not a doctor.

With the insight motor, itd be neat to see one fully housed so you could use spray flooded, with a tidy dry sump system between the crank>flywheel or between clutch>transmission. But you know, Im not a doctor and its not likely Ive seen ideas like that anyway
https://youtu.be/IzhvaGnEkJo
Oh well hmmm. The fuk is that?
cwdodson88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 08:23 PM   #319
HiSPL
Fanking Champion 1993
 
HiSPL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: College Station, TX
Default

The Insight motor was always going to be used in a hostile environment, being sandwiched between the motor and the clutch with no air flow. I'm guessing that with the most basic air cooling it could be pushed pretty hard as-is.
HiSPL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 09:06 PM   #320
cwdodson88
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Dalles, Oregon
Default

Looks like the civic hybrid motor is a little more betterer than the insight for high voltages and speeds, and looking at both packages, it does look like it’d be hard to go liquid cooled if you’re good with cad and have access to a mill. Pull the guts, machine a few parts. I’d do a 4 piece case. Inner case with some jets to spray the windings, outer case for pressure channels and scav area, then a front and rear cover that would seal it on both ends. Looks like it’s an open center shaft, might need to add a couple adapters on both sides to extend the shaft and deal with bearings/seals. Seems like it could be a good bit of power if cooling and packaging were dealt with.
cwdodson88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 09:16 PM   #321
mikep
The MP
 
mikep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: 38 27' N 75 29' W
Default

It is probably the same style motor as in the civic hybrid (mostly CVTs) and whatever hybrid Kahlua had with a stickshift. CRX?
We have a Civic hybrid at school, I haven't run it in a long time.
mikep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 09:29 PM   #322
gross polluter
They see me trollin'
 
gross polluter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: DM12
Default

I've always been intrigued by the early GM 2ML70. It uses a standard GM bellhousing and flexplate, which adapters are widely available for redblocks. About the form factor of a 4L80E, and as far as I know the mechanical transmission controls are the same as a 4L60e. So mounting and controlling the mechanicals is pretty trivial as that's all documented. At that point supplying power and controlling the electric motor drive would be the big part of the project. I don't know anything about the electric motor part, specs, power, etc, but from a TB perspective it would likely be the least amount of work and cost to make work in a redblock application.

Edit: Brief research shows most models as an internally controlled unit with CAN bus commands from the PCM, similar to the 6L80E control strategy. So that may be a bit more difficult to control. I could have sworn I've seen some earlier units where a different bellhousing was used on either a 4L80E or 4L60E where the bellhousing was the stator winding and a special torque converter was used that also acted as the rotor. Basically the torque converter was also the electric motor. I'll have to see if I can dig that up. Maybe it was never a thing and I'm just trippin'.
__________________
'88 245 - 2JZGTE VVTi | MS3X ECU, MS2 TCU | GT3582R-HTA | Staged simultaneous dual fuel | 590whp 580ftlbs

1968 Furd Rustang fastberk | 2JZGTE VVTi | MS3X ECU | PT6776S | 4L80e Microsquirt TCU Sloppy Transbrake | 3.73 8.8" rear end

1981 Piper Cherokee Archer II | Garmin GTN 750 | Ly-Con O-360
gross polluter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 10:50 PM   #323
cwdodson88
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Dalles, Oregon
Default

I think that you might be on to something. I remember seeing something from gm that had either a motor operated 1st or motor assisted input. Definitely not something I’ve had open on my bench, but somewheres out there something like that was brought up.

The interesting part of that vq build was at one point, they had been playing with vvti control to pull dynamic compression to near zero for the first 1800 rpm, and that thing was still stupid powerful from 0. Since then there’s been some changes, but that setup has the ability to roll out a functional stop start. So net mpgs are up and the emotor is doing most of the work until the 4-5k mark when the ice actually develops decent power. It’s definitely an interesting setup, and they have a very reliable control strategy.
cwdodson88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 10:58 PM   #324
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
https://youtu.be/IzhvaGnEkJo
Oh well hmmm. The fuk is that?
Here's the company that makes that motor: https://www.phi-power.com/en/home/
__________________
'63 PV Rat Rod
'93 245 16VT Classic #1141
JohnMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 11:20 PM   #325
gross polluter
They see me trollin'
 
gross polluter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: DM12
Default

Found a little more info. Came on 2004-2006 Silverado's, so this was pre 2ML70 era. It used the standard LM7 5.3 engine and a 4L60E. The only difference was the flexplate and bellhousing. The flexplate was the rotor assembly and also used the motor for starting the engine, so no ring gear or traditional starter motor. The torque converter fit inside the rotor assembly. The bellhousing was the stator windings. The transmission was just a run-of-the-mill 4L60e. It was only a 42 volt system, so likely won't produce significant power levels.

I can't really seem to find stuff on ebay for these anymore. Almost a decade ago when I was fitting a 4L80E to the 2JZ this stuff was all over the place. Either way, for cheap and dirty this arrangement could be fitted to a redblock with off the shelf GM adapter components, controlled with an off the shelf microsquirt 4l60e controller and the motor controls are up to the user.



gross polluter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:45 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.