home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-31-2021, 05:00 AM   #26
Pete.M
Slow Member
 
Pete.M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: UK
Default



Short version; Fitted a fancy differential, bigger front brakes with a later year servo, stiffer rear springs, revised the rear section of the exhaust, added thrust bearings to the front coilovers, made an oil separator can, fitted ridiculous wheels, and took it to the track.

For the rear springs, I went up from 350 Lb/In to 400 Lb/in. You seemingly can't get any higher rate than that in this size of spring. I'm hoping this helps to balance the car a touch more. The front springs are definitely too stiff for an old wobbly Volvo!

On the front coilovers, I had serious coil bind issues so the PS pump was struggling. I bought these thin needle thrust bearings to sit against the spring. I'm sure they will get full of dirt in no time, but for now it's a good improvement.



I went all-out and had some V70/C70 front brakes refurbished. Plus braided lines all round and EBC yellow pads. The discs are 302mm, the originals were 262mm.

Unfortunately my 16" Volvo Galaxy wheels don't fit over these brakes. I could've made them fit by grinding the calipers, but since the calipers were freshly refurbished I couldn't bear to go down that route. There aren't many options for perfectly sized wheels that don't require spacers or adapters. I really hate using adapters, which led me to these 59 North wheels.





Gripper differential. Genuinely cost more than the car. Painful thing to buy but it should be worth it in the long run. It's set up in a pretty aggressive setting. It does make funny noises when turning at slower speeds.
The speedo sensor is mounted on the diff cover, but my original speedo/reluctor ring was solidly attached to the OE diff. So I had to model one in CAD, and thankfully got it made for free! The ring was such a tight fit that I didn't bother tacking it on. Now I can't help but wonder if that was a bad idea.



I had to redo the rear section of my exhaust because it was hitting the handbrake cable over big bumps. (black cable running next to the axle). I wasn't too upset about this because the old rear section was pretty ugly anyway. I'm aware of how disgusting the axle looks in these pictures.



I made this oil separator out of mild steel, which I know is not the right material. But if the inside is covered in oil, it's not likely to rust. And I painted the valve cover before realising that I should've had a fitting welded to it.




I had some fun at Cadwell Park. As expected, the differential works wonders.
Only thing is that the breather system doesn't work at all, so it pushes a little oil through the cam seals etc.

VIDEO LINK:

https://youtu.be/pqiBrPzF7KI





Pete.M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2021, 05:16 AM   #27
Swedbrick
Board Member
 
Swedbrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Netherlands, Source of Grolsch
Default

Looking good! For the breather you could use a 14mm motorcycle breather on top of the B20 breather oil cap, I had similar issues and this has been working well as a temporary setup to keep the seals from leaking
__________________
Volvo 745 - IPD springs, 25mm/19mm swaybars, T-cam, LH2.4, M90 swap, 3.54 \w racingdiff lsd, track/daily
---------------------------------
I sell LH2.4 Chips for Europe!
Swedbrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2021, 08:49 AM   #28
lookforjoe
Making Volvo Parts Fit
 
lookforjoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockland County, NY
Default

Nice car!

Curious - do you have the stock breather box & vent hose to the inlet pipe (where the PTC is attached?) unless you're running a larger turbo, that really should keep a vacuum draw on the crankcase. In my experience, any catch can / mods need to have the same or larger ID fittings for any venting (14mm or larger), and venting the cam cover can often just push oil out the motor. B20's did vent out the oil cap, but they didn't factor ever have a turbo attached in that breather design. Presumably others have done that though, based on Swedbrick's response.
__________________

My XR July2013 - 446AWHP @ 8K rpm C30 AWD conversion Feedback Thread
lookforjoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2021, 09:02 AM   #29
Pete.M
Slow Member
 
Pete.M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: UK
Default

Thanks.
Yep I have the original breather box but the output goes to my catch can, and then from there to the inlet pipe. The fittings should all have around 14mm ID. The catch can is bone dry! Maybe the breather box is blocked.
What I haven't done yet is add a fitting on the valve cover. I think that's the main cause of the leak.
Pete.M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2021, 09:03 AM   #30
Swedbrick
Board Member
 
Swedbrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Netherlands, Source of Grolsch
Default

Hi yes the B20 setup is nice, because you can retain the metal wool oil separator in the cap, such that oil won't go through the breather. My car has somewhat excessive blowby resulting in my breather issue with a modified OEM breather
Swedbrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:31 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.