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Old 04-19-2021, 04:55 PM   #76
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wow thanks, I really appreciate it but i have already implemented it in 8051 assembly for an at89lp52 mcu for practice.
That's rad, I've had to learn 8051 assembly for my engineering courses, but never implemented something with it!
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Old 05-17-2021, 09:59 AM   #77
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i am hackerman



this is my new home


Scored some mint seats from a 90 240!



The driver side wheel bearing all of the sudden got very noisey. it was amplified by the solid strut mounts and i made it about 2 days before it drove me crazy to fix it.




It looks like the rear seal plate somehow worked its way out and m******* salt marsh water washed all the grease out. Luckily I caught it before it welded itself to the spindle



I haven't checked the valve lash for 60-80k so I got that over with. I don't know what I was thinking before but one of my valves was at 0.28mm and others were at 0.53mm. I could have sworn I did it perfectly last time. whatever, its fixed now, with all of them at 0.33mm to 0.34mm. A little tight for the spec but it's fine.



I also did the hushers as I didn't touch them last time. They all were hard as a rock and shattered as I extracted them. I also have a sneaking suspicion that they are indeed directly correlated with the knock sensor and ezk pulling all the timing it can on hard pulls, as that stopped happening once I replaced these and fixed the lash.



While doing the lash, I noticed how worn my timing belt and gear were. Probably 1 or 2 degrees of play of the belt on the gear.


I ordered a new belt and on a lazy friday night with nothing to do I played around with the cam timing and did some highway pulls. I ranged it from -6 to +6 degrees and after ~200 miles i figured +2 felt all around the best. But with the play, who knows what it was actually at.


this doesnt look right


I did a round tooth belt conversion as I had the parts from spare motor. I also used the cam gear plates from my 398 head.

Wow this thing got chewed up!

the lines on the belt don't even line up!

I ended up taking the cam gear plates off because the belt was proving difficult to get on. Once I re tension it in 1000 miles or so I'll try reinstalling them. The round teeth are definitely quieter as they say. Less of a slight whine that was prevalent when the worn belt was tensioned.


I ordered a smaller alternator pulley to get better charging at idle but it is too far off in multiple dimensions to use without modification. It needs the bottom step and the back side of the pulley turned down maybe 2mm to line up right. It also drags against the alternator housing. I'll see if I can use my friends lathe to fix it myself.



My mann pro vent keeps clogging up so I relocated it to next to the radiator for more heat. It also had the side effect of a more straight shot for the drain into an oil quart bottle. It was snaking around the strut tower before.




i will never get rid of this car. i love it
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Old 05-17-2021, 10:59 AM   #78
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round tooth and topcog gang
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Old 07-12-2021, 11:28 AM   #79
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my diff has been making scary noises for a little bit. I changed the fluid a couple of times as seen in the history of this thread. This pic is a comparison from 2 week old oil vs brand new oil. The dark stuff in the oil is not metallic, the magnet collects nothing substantial.






The noise is the worst at like 50-80% on throttle. I hear nothing on decel/coast. I am not 100% sure about noise at WOT because my exhaust is obnoxious. (i'm working on that, lol)



opinions? probably 400k+ miles on the diff.

Last edited by esmth; 07-12-2021 at 11:44 AM..
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Old 07-12-2021, 11:42 AM   #80
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Ok so I scanned thru this thread for the first time in a little bit and I recall during my spartan locker install 1.5 years ago (which is still working beautifully, BTW) I had to cut out the weird bolt retainer/oil slinger to get the ring gear bolts out. It was pressed in between the bearing and the carrier. I am thinking the carrier bearing may have shifted slightly with this removed affecting the backlash? Maybe this thing is a requirement for correct oiling? I put 60k+ miles on this thing since the install.



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Old 07-12-2021, 12:34 PM   #81
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I've cut that thing on 2 diffs, and never had any issues, I would doubt it would clamp on the bearing stop. Thin sheet metal would deform between the hardened surfaces over time, and when pressing it together.

Those bearings however look pretty worn compared to mine, so that might be your issue, here's mine for comparison, a second stop appears to hold the bearing. Both sides have the same gap:
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Old 07-12-2021, 02:31 PM   #82
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I do vaguely recall seeing a step on the carrier itself the bearing seated against but I just wanted to be sure! thx for the pix.

I looked through my photo album and couldn't find any better images of the carrier bearings. In person though they looked fine. (1.5 years ago) No pitting or major discoloration but with this many miles their time is probably up.

Does the sound in the video remind you of any specific failure in mind? People on other forums seem to claim different failure modes can produce different sounds. If it's just carrier bearings I can bang those out in a weekend. But the pinion bearing work is new to me.
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Old 07-12-2021, 03:40 PM   #83
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The noise it makes does not sound like backlash to me, that is more of a whine on acceleration and decelleration. I recall my locker sometimes being slightly rattely, but also mostly on decel and roundabouts. I have heard that the engagement of the locker can start to wear out over time (2-3years), does it give the sense of locking up less firmly?

Following this guide it might just be the bearings on the carrier, since it is not that high pitched and rumbly from what I could tell, as the pinion moves a lot faster
https://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-...rential-noise/
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Old 08-05-2021, 01:39 AM   #84
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Heyo! I'm coming back to TB a bit and almost all of your photos aren't working for me. When I try to open just the image in a new window/tab, it gives me a security warning:
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Websites prove their identity via certificates, which are valid for a set time period. The certificate for esmth.com expired on 7/18/2021.

Error code: SEC_ERROR_EXPIRED_CERTIFICATE
Anyway, back to the car. Why'd you go back to a stock exhaust manifold and did you notice any difference in performance between the two? Did you port the factory manifold and/or modify the downpipe/2-1 section to have a larger merge than the factory 2" or whatever it is?

Regarding your valve lash, the tight one was definitely a bit tighter than you'd like, and the rest definitely looser than wanted. Where you have them now would make a noticeable decrease in dynamic compression with the valves being open longer. This will reduce the tendency for detonation, reduce idle vacuum, increase emissions and increase HP by an also tiny amount.

I can't comment on your ignition timing as I can't see the pictures.

Keep it up!
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Old 08-05-2021, 09:47 AM   #85
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About the cert, thank you for letting me know. I had scripted it to automatically update but missed the last crucial step, letting the web server know about the new cert file name. Whoops!

I went back to the stock manifold mostly because rust but also because it made oil changes hell. The only change really noticeable was less of a tinny exhaust sound in the cabin. Butt dyno stayed the same. I did not port the manifold itself, I did not really see anywhere I could improve it. For the downpipe, I cut a hole right before the 2-1 merge and stuck a long burr in with a die grinder and cleaned up the merge and removed all the extra pipe left in there as there was a ton. The pipe itself was 2.25 so I left that as it was.

honestly ignore that ignition map. not long after I made det cans and it was way too much in the 1500-3500rpm high load range. Just consistent but light enough ping to not hear over the exhaust
This is what I've been running for a couple months now. No ping on 93 octane, verified with det cans. Well, ignoring the ever prevalent tip-in ping. Vac advance may be a bit much, but a lot of those cells can't be reached with my gearing or whatever. A consistent cruise nets me upper 30s to mid-low 40s degrees depending on the terrain. almost reaching 28 mpg average over the last 1000 miles.
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Old 08-05-2021, 09:58 AM   #86
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I remember reading that the disc on the diff is just to retain the ring gear bolts in case they back out. Early ones didn't have it.
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Old 08-05-2021, 10:04 AM   #87
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I remember reading that the disc on the diff is just to retain the ring gear bolts in case they back out. Early ones didn't have it.
Interesting. I did notice on the diff I just pulled apart there is a little blob of glue on the bolt heads to the shield thing. Makes sense to me
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Old 09-23-2021, 10:59 AM   #88
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I bought some new HDs and 250lbx12in springs to replace my 300x10in. When trying to install them the old gland nut top broke off. I cut a slot into it with a dremel then ended up cold chiseling it out. It was a tedious couple hours. I pre heated and PB'd the other side before taking my pipe wrench to it and it came right out without breaking.


The bilsteins did not fit in the strut tubes without coersion. I ended up making a hone with a sponge and sandpaper to clean out the ID of the strut tubes. Slid in nice after this along with some lube.


My crappy joint from the back of the cat to my terrible exhaust started rattling. I sealed it up with generic exhaust bendy-pipe.


The power wire to the in-tank fuel pump decided to break off. Luckily it happened in my friends driveway where I could fix it without a tow. I also figured out why my gas gauge wasn't working, the level float was not attached and floating around in the tank. I have no idea how I'm going to get it out.


I've been having an occasional problem with crank case pressure causing my oil to be blown out the dipstick tube during sustained on-ramp pulls.


I got this smog pump from here a couple months ago with the idea of playing around with it as a vaccuum pump for the crank case. I rebuilt it and added an inlet port barb and plugged the stock inlet. I also tore apart a spare oil filler cap to add a regulator and a small barb to get measurements of the crank case pressure situation. I tested hooking up the pump and it does pull a good vacuum, 12 inches of mercury at cruising speed.


I decided to drive around with the pump pumping nothing for a couple days to make sure it doesn't explode but this morning it started making this noise.

Last edited by esmth; 09-23-2021 at 11:13 AM.. Reason: wrong picture
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Old Yesterday, 09:18 AM   #89
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The succ pump was about to explode anyway so I hooked it up straight to the crank case. The outlet was hooked up to the exhaust collector evac bung I had installed months ago. It managed to pull 1 in/hg at idle and 6 at 55mph cruising speed. 2200 engine RPM * 0.66 pulley reduction had the pump spinning at 1475RPM.


And 4 miles later, what I assume to be blow by goo mixed with whats left of the carbon brushes ejected itself from between the pump housing and back plate. I need to re-seal it better
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