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1985 Volvo 244 auto.

9

90volvo

Active member
Joined
May 27, 2017
Location
Eldorado Springs Mo.
Im trying to help a friend of mine. He purchased a 85 244 auto with 150000 miles. Looks like it has the Chrysler box on passenger side behind headlight. He drove the car home but it ran horrible. I had him do the basics, splugs, fuel filter, wires, cap, rotor and airfilter. That smoothed things out but anything off idle is would bog then die. So I went to go visit him he lives 3 hours away.
I figured it was a fuel problem so, I checked both pumps. The intank pump was not working, he had a brand new pump for different application, (02 ford?). I eliminate the main pump and installed new pump in tank with new fuel lines. I used fuse 4 for power and ran a new wire to the pump. I checked the specs on the new pump and seems its for an EFI and pump 43lbs pressure. Fre the car up, same problem idles great, but hit the gas to rev it up and it dies. I checked the TPS and it clicks right off when throttle is hit.
The car has a weird looking fuel rail so I didnt have any FPR to fit it. If you unhooked the MAF it does better but still dies when you put it gear and try and move the car. For the heck of it I pinched off the fuel return hose. That helped alot, you could rev it up with out it dying.
heres a list of parts he had put on it.
NGK plugs
New Coil
Plug wires
cap and rotor
fuel pump
Fuel pump relay(out of my 90 volvo that I know is good.)
THINGS WE TRIED
- replaced timing belt and yes its setup right. Triple checked it.
-up by firewall is a big plug that has wires that a mouse chewed up. I figured all the wires out but a green wire from engine?
-pull injectors and cleaned them
-pulled air filter housing and piping and cleaned
-Cleaned throttle body
-cleaned fuse panel and installed nices fuses that I had laying around


-At this point I think has to be FPR, The vacuum line has no sign of leaks etc. I have a fuel rail off of a 89 240, so I can put different FPR on it. I have quite of few of them laying around.
-Used couple of can of brake clean to check for vacuum leaks. Im back home to get some tools-timing ligt- test light etc. To take back with me. He is a good friend and I talked him into buying a volvo 240 so I feel like it my place to help him getting it figured out. I wish it was 2.4 cause I am more familiar with that system. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Im sure Im forgetting some other things. Id greatly appreciate the help. Im about to have back surgery but want to get this lined out for him before I get it scheduled. Im driving back up there this evening. Thanks
 
If you could check fuel pressure that would give you an answer pretty quick. Make sure you put a 2.5bar fpr in it if it's 2.2
 
Sounds like you're on the right track. I recently replaced my 2.5bar FPR, similar driving behavior. It was leaking, confirmed fuel smell in the vacuum line, no drips though. Prior to that I had fixed various vacuum lines/leaks, so it seemed like the FPR leak was the next weak link.

I got lucky and found a NOS Bosch for cheap on ebay, part number 3517102.
 
Fuel pressure test will let you check the fuel pressure regulator. You should see a slight increase in fuel pressure as you rev the engine up. it only last about a second. A bad diaphragm means it won't respond and hurts acceleration.

The other acceleration issue is the vacuum canister on the ignition box should have nice tight connections. That's how it knows to advance the spark for acceleration. Also sneaky vacuum leaks like a bad intake gasket. After all this it may need a adjustment on the mass air sensor.
 
If the harness looked like this it's not mouse damage, it's the typical biodegradable wiring harness and there's a lot more of that going on where you can't see it.

AEGB0k8.jpg
 
Cwazywazy said:
If you could check fuel pressure that would give you an answer pretty quick. Make sure you put a 2.5bar fpr in it if it's 2.2
Click to expand...
We have 28lbs of pressure and it spikes to 33 when you hit the throttle then goes back down. It defiantly runs better with AMM unplugged but not drivable, it stumbles and dies when you hit the throttle. If you put it in gear and hit the throttle to move it bogs and then dies.
 
90volvo said:
We have 28lbs of pressure and it spikes to 33 when you hit the throttle then goes back down. It defiantly runs better with AMM unplugged but not drivable, it stumbles and dies when you hit the throttle. If you put it in gear and hit the throttle to move it bogs and then dies.
Click to expand...
Sounds normal to me. Throw another maf at it if you got one.
 
Pinching the fuel return hose - does that just force max fuel pressure? Just wondering why doing this would let the car rev without bogging.
And timing is good, right?
 
go240go said:
Pinching the fuel return hose - does that just force max fuel pressure? Just wondering why doing this would let the car rev without bogging.
And timing is good, right?
Click to expand...
So that test was done before the new fuel pump. Now with new fuel pump and return line pinched, pressure goes way up and the engine wont hardly run. Which that would correct. Im trying to find a MAF for it. Thanks
 
ok Im really stumped. Pull a MAF from a friends car that runs just fine, no luck. If this was a carburetor engine Id say the accelerator pump was not working. IF you rev it slow it does fine but if you kit the throttle hard it bogs and dies. Im going to pull the intake tomorrow but engine is pulling good vaccuum. I even ran a new vacuum line from the computer ecu to the intake. No luck of course. Anyways Im not gving up..........
 
Do you have a timing light? Does it try to advance if you rev it, or is it stuck at idle timing?
Maybe a clogged exhaust/cat? Stick your hand infront of the exhaust and see if it changes when rev'd.
Try a power balance test - unplug one injector at a time at idle and see if they all behave about the same.
 
yes checked timing and it advances as it should. I will do the other 2 test to see what we got. The car purs like a kitten at idle and if you rev it slow it does fine but hit the throttle quckly and it bogs and dies.
 
bobxyz said:
Do you have a timing light? Does it try to advance if you rev it, or is it stuck at idle timing?
Maybe a clogged exhaust/cat? Stick your hand infront of the exhaust and see if it changes when rev'd.
Try a power balance test - unplug one injector at a time at idle and see if they all behave about the same.
Click to expand...
Unplugged inj. one at a time. The 2 back one the engine would die, the 2 fronts it would still barely run. Sooo, I had a set of cheapo 440cc inj. threw them in thinking it would be way to much for the stock engine. But I was wrong it runs great, I camt believe it but I am so happy get this thing fixed for my friend. I appreciate everybody help. Ty so much. Now gotta schedule another back surgery.
 
Glad that changing the injectors improved it, but that's probably not the real issue. As you thought, the 440cc injectors are about twice as big as the originals. If everything else was working correctly, this would give _way_ too much fuel. Since it runs, something is causing the ECU to command about half the normal injector pulse width (2x injectors with 1/2 the pulse width = close to normal fueling).

The usual suspects for fueling being way off would be: FPR, MAF, temperature sensor, poor electrical contacts.
- Your updated FPR measurement of "spikes to 33psi" is about right for 2.5bar (14.5 psi per bar, so 14.5*2.5=36psi).
- You've tried a different MAF with the same results, so it's probably OK. You could swap the original into the donor running car to confirm
- A bad temperature sensor might still be an issue, but doubtful. Does it still run OK after warming up?
- Can you measure the voltages on the MAF pins at idle (peel back the rubber boot to get backside access). Measure from battery ground post to each pin:
--- pin1 black (ground)
--- pin2 green/yellow (sensor ground)
--- pin3 white/red (MAF signal)
--- pin4 white (burnoff)
--- pin5 orange (+12v)
--- pin6 yellow (CO idle adjust)
 
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