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240 distributor terminal fault

Have a local machine shop drill it out on a press. Then it can be retapped to the same stock size. That will be least hassle than buying another manifold unless you live somewhere that volvo parts are still easily found.

Since it's in aluminum. You can also try welding to the bolt. Build up the weld and then weld on a nut to turn it out. Then you can just chase the threads.
 
mschultz373 said:
i guess replacing would be easier/cheaper than getting this bolt out....
Click to expand...

If you take the manifold off, you could try drilling it out from the back side. I'm not sure if there's enough clearance to get a straight shot at it. If you get really lucky, the drill rotation might just back it out the top side.
 
dl242gt said:
Sure but that leaves nothing there to hold the fuel rail on.
Click to expand...

Aha, that one is important. My bad, missed his later line where he specified it held the rail on. Don't have that intake layout memorized...

On the plus side, it looks like he has access to both sides of the hole, so a nut could perhaps be added if the threads are shot.
 
i got a lead on another manifold. but i appreciate all the ideas; gives me ideas should i run into this again.

I think i could've gotten it out earlier if I had known to go slow with the extractor and all. I went too fast and so i think i boggered up my chances of getting it out.
 
I actually did take the intake out and to a local shop. Got it fixed right, reinstalled with new gasket.... but now the car is idling really, really fast - as if I started it and immediately floored it.

I suspect I was too careless in removing the throttle linkages and pulley and that something is incorrect in that area. From what I can see, though, the only suspect is this gap on the pulley, which Bentley says ought to be 1mm (it looks to me more like 2-5mm):

<a href="https://ibb.co/M50k3vV"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/tPrpWGs/KIMG0043.jpg" alt="KIMG0043" border="0"></a>




I'd been having a high idle problem before - after cleaning my throttle body and re-installing. After doing that, I adjusted my idle bypass screw damn near all the way in, I cleaned the IAC, set the ignition timing, and still I was idling ~900-1000rpm, where Bentley specifies 700-750. But now it is like off the charts fast. I didn't put a meter on the coil, but I am talking like full throttle.

I think the problem is in the throttle pulley because I can manually decrease the idle by turning the pulley counterclockwise. What I don't quite get is how to get that turned position to be the 'idle' position. Is it adjusted as an interaction between the control arms and the cable linkages as well?
 
You appear to have a 3-row throttle spool and only two cables. Are you sure each cable is in the right position? Throttle cable adjusted OK? Try taking them both off and running car with spool just fully against the stop.

If that's OK, I'd start looking for leaks.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-240-740-940-12/kick-down-cable-nuts-adjust-39702/ has a photo of a 3-cable spool hooked up. I can take a photo of my 2-cable one after I get off work in a couple hours, if it helps.

I suspect you have a leak problem instead though - I can't see why that amount of distance off the stop would give the racing idle you describe. Make sure you reconnected all hoses and tightened all bolts.
 
I do have three cables. They are, from top to bottom as pictured:
-automatic transmission kickdown cable
-throttle linkage
-cruise control

the racing idle is only present in P and N. The car idles much lower, probably close to normal, in D.

i adjusted the throttle linkage without any change in the racing idle. I also tried running the car without the throttle or cruise cables engaged and it was still present. i adjusted the TPS and that seemed to decrease the speed a bit, down to ~ 1600rpm per my meter.

I am sort of at my wits end here. the high idle was present before, even after adjusting the idle screw, cleaning IAC, getting the TPS in right position.

being that this racing idle is occurring with the throttle closed, it suggests to me there is some major leak in vac line/gasket downstream from the throttle body. either that or I did not set the idle speed or ignition timing correctly.

Should I re-do my idle screw adjustment? I.e, ground the lead wire, back out the screw, back it back in? maybe I messed up adjusting that screw at some point, maybe adjusted it wihtout having the lead wire grounded?

I did clean the engine today with Gunk Shine, and cleaned the intake before re-installing. could some of that have gotten in the manifold and be burning off?
 
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Since it's more normal in drive with some load on the engine, and it's not brake boosting itself, sounds like the idle is not *THAT* high, so might indeed just be a relatively minor adjustment problem.

Spool closest to the passenger side should be auto trans.
Center should be throttle.
Driver's side spool should be cruise control.

Throttle and cruise control cables should go over the top so pulling on them moves spool away from the stop and opens butterfly inside the throttle. Auto trans cable on the bottom so it gets pulled on as the throttle opens. Looking at your photo, I suspect it's connected correctly, but your text description confuses me. In either case the throttle butterfly should be closed when spool is against the stop. Did you take apart the spool-to-throttle linkage? If so, may need to confirm that's still the case.

Take some pliers, put a piece of cloth in the jaws to avoid damaging hose, and clamp IAC hose shut. Does idle drop to normal? The valve tends to stick open sometimes.

Might as well adjust that throttle switch while you're in there.
 
sorry, my bad on the cables - you are right, it's kickdown, throttle, cruise.

-adjusted TPS, idle is now ~1600rpm.
-adjust throttle linkage so there is full close with gas pedal at rest
-IAC either disconnected OR clamped shut (between air boot and IAC) does not alter idle
-TPS and IAC are correctly wired

could you give me more details on the spool to throttle linkage? I am guessing what you mean is to confirm that the throttle is, in fact, closed all the way when the throttle pulley is at the stop. when removing the intake, I took off the throttle body, the throttle cable and the kickdown/throttle linkage bracket and cruise bracket. so perhaps my throttle is open despite the throttle pulley being at stop.

i am also wondering if maybe I need to re-do my idle bypass screw?

the silver lining, if i may, is that the ol' girl is running quite happy and smooth at that high idle!
 
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I can confirm the throttle butterfly is closing fully, so the high idle is a problem with the IAC or the idle bypass screw or a vacuum leak.

as pictured, the idle bypass screw is in about as far as I can get it. I wonder if this problem could have been caused if I failed to ground the IAC test wire before adjusting this screw? But I've seen others say that you disconnect the IAC altogether when adjusting this screw?
<a href="https://ibb.co/L9wwRXw"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/vL55q65/IMG-20200503-120833291.jpg" alt="IMG-20200503-120833291" border="0"></a>

I cleaned the IAC last week, but I did not take the valve off the body to confirm it was working. I didn't want to mess with the metal tabs holding it in place. however, I may need to do this to confirm if the IAC valve is stuck open all the way?

for vacuum troubleshooting here's a picture from the top of the intake. the vacuums lines pictured, plus one on the other side of the TPS running to a metal reservoir (is this a fuel or brake reservoir?) are the only lines my '85 non-egr, non-cold start intake has, as far as I am aware.
<a href="https://ibb.co/JBBMPLx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/mDDM7sv/IMG-20200503-120842477.jpg" alt="IMG-20200503-120842477" border="0"></a>

any additional thoughts? i can post a video of some diag if that would help.
 
duct tape is on the air intake due to a small rip at the boot going to the throttle body. it has ben taped us as long as I've had the car...

i think I may have found my issue- faulty IAC.

<a href="https://ibb.co/ZGZ7jHB"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/pbm57Wf/IMG-20200503-150305436.jpg" alt="IMG-20200503-150305436" border="0"></a>

resistance measurement between:
3 - 5 : 20ohms
4 - 3 : 42ohms
4 - 5 : 21.8ohms

Bentley says the spec should be 40ohms across outer terminals (3 - 5) and 20ohms from center to outers (4 - 3 & 5). So I suspect, despite the piston moving freely, the IAC is faulty and needs replaced.
 
actually, now that I think about it... this may not be the problem since the high idle is present with the IAC disconnected and with hose clamped? but due to the interaction between grounding the IAC piston and adjusting idle screw, maybe it still is the issue....
 
mschultz373 said:
duct tape is on the air intake due to a small rip at the boot going to the throttle body. it has ben taped us as long as I've had the car...

i think I may have found my issue- faulty IAC.

<a href="https://ibb.co/ZGZ7jHB"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/pbm57Wf/IMG-20200503-150305436.jpg" alt="IMG-20200503-150305436" border="0"></a>

resistance measurement between:
3 - 5 : 20ohms
4 - 3 : 42ohms
4 - 5 : 21.8ohms

Bentley says the spec should be 40ohms across outer terminals (3 - 5) and 20ohms from center to outers (4 - 3 & 5). So I suspect, despite the piston moving freely, the IAC is faulty and needs replaced.
Click to expand...

From your picture, the pins left to right are 3 4 5. Try re-measuring, I think you must have swapped a pair of measurements (center pin to either side should be ~20 ohms, side-to-side is ~20 + ~20 = ~40.

Get a good intake hose and get rid of the duct tape. Air leaks there will confuse the MAF, but shouldn't affect idle (I think).

Where is your big flame trap hose going to? If it's open, I think it could cause idle problems.
 
no, the measurements are correct. center pin to right outer pin as pictured (4 to 5) is 21.8 ohms; center pin to left pin as pictured (4 to 3) is 41.7 ohms, across outer terminals (3 to 5 and vice versa) is 20ohms.

am I misunderstanding the measurements?

i have the IPD flame trap relocation kit installed, so that big hose runs to the intake boot right by the throttle body.

the air intake has been taped for as long as I've had the car so while I admit it's not ideal, i don't think it's causing this idle problem since two years prior it never caused a high idle.
 
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