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86 240 starter wiring?

DavePolyakov

Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2020
Location
Shoreline, WA
Weird problem, reconnected starter wires after clutch job, no crank. Jumped with a screwdriver from the solenoid to the battery terminal connection and the car started but the starter wouldn't disengage until I disconnected the battery. There are only 3 wires to it, the two red ones which go to the main post and the small spade connection correct?

Also using the red starter test terminal and connecting a wire from that to the positive battery post does nothing.
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I swapped the small wire to all 3 spade terminals and got nothing. I get zero volts at this wire when the key is turned all the way to start, or in my case PO installed a push to start and when I'm holding it down there is nothing at that wire.
Probably need to switch the yellow/blue wire to the other spade connector.
 
The the blue/yellow wire should get 12v when key is turned to start or you push the button. If it's not then you gotta trace back and see where they connected the button.
 
^pre ~1998 Volvos don?t have one of those, believe it or not? :lol:

For being a ?safe car? (for Avoiding the wreck or while driving) & all those lawsuits VW/Audi had with cars being slipped into gear and an old lady being run over by their husbands/similar, they didn?t get the brake pedal switch/lockout to shift from park until 1991 on automatics and no clutch switch/interlock to prevent engaging the starter in gear or starting it in neutral until 1999/ME7 (for all ~6 manual / standard trans Volvos they sold here after ~1999/Y2K :lol:)

I spy a small permanent magnet ?89+ type starter in an ?86 car?
Assuming the connections are good & the ignition switch wire isn?t rotten or engine harness isn?t rotten (?86 being the ~the last year of 240 w/rotting harnesses, but them making it a while on cool weather north Seattle garage or carport cars), I haven?t had much luck with those crappy Bosch Brazil late model starters for the most part?

Verify the blue/yellow wire leading to the 1/4? shielded female spade at the starter lights at least 20w test lamp with minimal voltage drop from the battery brightly at the starter (or at least at the starter clicker stub terminal/black shielded female spade near the main firewall connector for the engine harness there?).

I think I can count on one hand how many of the late brushless type replacement starters I?ve had that had a decent solenoid bore that wouldn?t stick intermittently, have contact problems &/or have pivot/swing arm problems or crank fast and sound healthy?
I?ve replaced ~5-10 of the ?89+ type starters to the 1 -?88 type starter? (Tho there is some variation in sub-types of those?)

Most of the few decent quality replacement brushless type starters made in W.Germany with the Volvo/Bosch replacement tag i came across were installed in 700s (those cars had so much electrical/so many electrical problems as is?) as replacement for cars that also had a misdiagnosed or marginal ignition switch circuit or harness component and came thru the Volvo dealer & said ?made in W.Germany? on them dusty shelf spare parts available in good quality up to the early ~00s.

This isn?t to be racist or say all stuff made in Brazil for German companies is garbage or that the brushless & gear reduction starters are junk when done right (& aren?t superior to brush type models in theory when done or operated optimally), but of what?s available used affordably commonly in quality, I?ll keep using/rebuilding the heavier -?88 brush type made in W. Germany starters for a daily driver instead of outdated becauseracecar overboosted redblock fever dreams obsessing over 7lbs weight difference or in theory more cranking power (if enough current ever actually made it thru the switch contacts, battery cables or alt charging internal temp sensor/ hot charging voltage (unless trickle smart charged over night? / battery health were ever good enough on one of these cars to actually achieve that? :roll: :lol:?unless I could find one of the exceedingly rare made in W.Germany small replacement starters in good shape like our one owner (one family original Wisconsin brain surgeon owner) 1990 5 speed 744Turbo got in the late 1990s) to use of the small/permanent magnet type starters?

I have a couple more spare -?88 big W.Germany brush type starters I?d sell for about ~picknpull price + shipping (not that much to Seattle) known good without having to lay on your back & dig one out in unknown condition if you isolate it to being the starter after reasonably certain elimination of everything else?
 
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A push button start with one wire to the correct terminal at the starter and one wire to the battery. Allows you to crank the motor without going in to the driver's seat is probably what is meant
 
Yes, that's correct and I found out what's going on. The wire I'm holding goes to the starter and the end of the fused wire goes to the positive terminal. This fuse blows now every time I try to start the car, I've verified that both these two wires are in good shape and have good connections.
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fuse blows from too much current. Too much current comes from low resistance. Low resistance means either solenoid or starter is being bypassed (both fat coils of wire). So I suspect something in the starter being stupid. disconnect wires and check resistance / continuity between terminals. See if you can disassemble without damage and take a look at inside.
 
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