Are the 1981 Volvo 240s any good?

[Cole Trickle]

Are the 1981 Volvo 240s any good? More specifically the 1981 Volvo 242. Im looking at buying one for around 3 grand and was wonder fi they're any good. What are the big issues with them?

 

[sc0terdad]

I had one, the one thing that screwed me over the most was the cable clutch snapping, specifically the white plastic collar on the tightener.
I’d check it out and see if it looks old and brittle. Not a big fix at all. Maybe 45 mins of work, and 50$ for a new one. Something to watch out for for sure.

 

[sc0terdad]

Aside from that it was a nice car, had an oil leak somewhere that I never diagnosed or checked thoroughly.
Engine never left me stranded.
I’d probably change the trans oil once you buy it if you do, check for any mettalic flake, my car had a slipping cone clutch (the part that engages the overdrive) and made it the drivetrain slip in all gears.

That’s all I got to say about it

 

[Cole Trickle]

Aside from that it was a nice car, had an oil leak somewhere that I never diagnosed or checked thoroughly.
Engine never left me stranded.
I’d probably change the trans oil once you buy it if you do, check for any mettalic flake, my car had a slipping cone clutch (the part that engages the overdrive) and made it the drivetrain slip in all gears.

That’s all I got to say about it

Will do. Thanks for the tips/advice.

 

[Jack]

op learn what subforums are
This section is called “for sale” it’s used to sell things, volvo related things

You might try posting in “off topic” for comedy and information

 

[James M]

op learn what subforums are
This section is called “for sale” it’s used to sell things, volvo related things

You might try posting in “off topic” for comedy and information

I'm incredibly turned off by this transgressions

 

[OVERDRIVE]

Eh, '81 will be K-jet and if you don't know how to make it run happy, then you're on your own since there are few shops anymore who know how to calibrate and repair the system. You should be able to find an LH2.4 car for $3000. Those will have check engine codes, better rust proofing, better parts availability etc.

 

[spock345]

K-jet is going to be the big hurdle here. It is kind of essential that you know how to work on cars yourself to dive into it or you will need deep pockets to take it to Mercedes or Porsche specialists (the only shops that seem to still work on K-jet systems).

The later LH injection systems like 2.4 ('89-93) or 2.2 ('85-88?) are going to be better choices for a beginner. I started on 2.4 and then later got a carbureted and then a K-jet car. I'm glad I had that progression. I am not sure if I would be able to sort out a K-jet car with what I knew starting out.

 

[dl242gt]

81 is also the first year for the side of the block PCV box. Due to limited access to that area of the block. NO one services that PCV box and it's almost a guarantee to be blocked up causing oil seeping and leaks on the engine. If the car comes with records showing the service was done then it may be OK.

 

[spock345]

81 is also the first year for the side of the block PCV box. Due to limited access to that area of the block. NO one services that PCV box and it's almost a guarantee to be blocked up causing oil seeping and leaks on the engine. If the car comes with records showing the service was done then it may be OK.

It is also the first year for a constant idle system and I think Chrysler ignition, so it may have the super expensive white cap Chrysler distributor. The constant idle system is another system tacked onto otherwise relatively simple k jet that complicates troubleshooting.

 

[Mr. V]

Bad wiring in the engine compartment: the insulation degrades over time, causing many issues.

Wiring can be repaired but it ain't cheap.

As suggested above: avoid these cars unless you are a competent home mechanic; otherwise...."You'll be sorry...."

 

[Jack]

81 is also the first year for the side of the block PCV box. Due to limited access to that area of the block. NO one services that PCV box and it's almost a guarantee to be blocked up causing oil seeping and leaks on the engine. If the car comes with records showing the service was done then it may be OK.

tell me about it

1981 244 GL High MPG - daughter's first car

Picked up this 1981 244 few years ago for a cheap. I saw it parked in Chico, left a note and got a call the next day, not really wanting another car. Woman said it had a charging issue, new alternator and battery just replaced. She was asking $800 but I talked her down to $550, she even got is...

turbobricks.com

 

[dl242gt]

My 81 had a completely blocked pcv box. So I just used the old B20 oil filler cap solution and it passed emissions easily after that.

 

[Corey]

I've had my 81 turbo for almost 10 years now. Like folks have said, good luck finding a mechanic for the kjet stuff. You're going to have to learn to work on it yourself. Some parts are also getting hard to find

 

[Mr. V]

Has it gotten to the point yet that older 240's are considered "collector cars" instead of daily drivers?

As time passes I see fewer and fewer on the road.

To my mind, a "daily driver" is a car with ready availability of parts and technicians with the knowledge to repair them.

 

[Khrrck]

I'd say a LH 240 is a daily drivable car. It's not an "optimal" daily drivable car since you can get something 10+ years newer for about the same price as a good quality 240 these days. My XC70 was $3000 and has only needed maybe $200 of parts outside oil changes.

A Kjet 240 is a commitment.

 

[dl242gt]

Or you need to be committed. Actually kjet is very straight forward. It's just that the parts prices are way up there now if you need anything like a fuel distributor or a control pressure regulator. One of the issues running an old kjet car is that it's not a Mercedes, Porsche, Ferrari, etc where affluent people want to sink money into their special car. Volvos are still in the workhorse utility category even with the 'old car interest in Volvos'.

So if you really want the car. Study up on kjet or get a 89-93 with the LH2.4 which is more refined and more powerful in an already underpowered car. There are even LH3.1 manual cars which run very well. In November last year I bought an LH3.1 car and it's the best running version of LH injection I've had.

 

[spock345]

You are right, K-jet isn't too bad once you've got the tools and a decent understanding of what does what. This is just a sort of troubleshooting that fewer and fewer folks learn in the era of OBD codes.

The parts pricing is definitely a bit insane at times. At least the injectors are still decently cheap.

 

[polaris]

Background: I have owned two 1981 240s, a 242DL and 244DL. Owned each one of those cars for around 5 years. The 242 I gave to a friend after moving to San Francisco from PA. The 244 was sold to the state through the CA Vehicle Retirement Program.

Echoing Mr V., the main item I would look for in a 1981 240 is had the engine wiring harness been replaced? By 2024, I would be surprised to see an 1980-87 240 with an original harness still in use. Did install a replacement harness in the 244 and it is a bit of a PITA due to the fuel distributor and breather box being situated under the intake manifold. The 1981/early 1982 Kjet 240s are the worst ones, most amount of effort to swap in a new wiring harness due to access. Additionally, they have the old style connectors which require a pick to dislodge the locking wires to removed them. (As opposed to the later ones with the push release designed into the lock wire.)

As a personal preference I am definitely not a proponent of the K-jet FI system, much prefer having an LH system under the hood. The Bentley 240 manual only covers the LH FI system so if servicing yourself, will need to locate the Volvo green books.

As mentioned previously dl242gt, the breather box and flame trap are hard to access under the intake manifold. The first time I did the flame trap servicing on the 244, the rubber hose containing the flame trap disintegrated in my hands. It took a several days to get replacements and the car driveable.

If an automatic car, the 1981s use the BW55 transmission, the later AW70 ones are superior in every way.

The other aspect to consider with a 43 year old car, what was the level of effort of maintenance and upkeep by the previous owners. That goes a long way in how much work a car like this will need.


Would join those recommending finding a newer 240 if possible. That said, the 1981 model certainly isn't a lemon at all, it will be more involved and expensive in terms of upkeep and maintenance. Owned and operated both of my 1981s for around 5 years and they were both my primary car for most of that time. They did required routine maintenance, but the only time I was left stranded was when the main fuel pump died on the 244 while driving to San Jose. The 242 I gave to a friend after moving to San Francisco from PA. The 244 was sold to the state through the CA Vehicle Retirement Program.

Turning in the 1981 244 at Pier 70 for the CA vehicle retirement/ buy-back program
The main reason the 244 was disposed through the CA retirement program is it had frame & door damage from being t-boned and it already had a salvaged title status. Before going to turning in the car, I installed a barely functioning battery, 4 bald tires and badly worn seats. To be accepted into the program the car needed to start, drive forward 25 feet, backward 25 feet. It also had to have working lights, windshield wipers and intact windshield. This was to make sure the car was operational and not just a parts car. After getting issued the check and starting to leave, the workers went to move the 244 and it wouldn't start. The lights were left on and that drained what little was in the battery and they needed to get a crash cart to move the car.

 

[johfraser]

Are the 1981 Volvo 240s any good? More specifically the 1981 Volvo 242. Im looking at buying one for around 3 grand and was wonder fi they're any good. What are the big issues with them?

There's two sides to that equation.