• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Bob George's '82 242 Turbo PROJECT

lovethellama said:
looks great. did you get all the calipers on or just the one test fitted?
Click to expand...

Both fronts are installed, new braided and hard lines run, and the brake booster/MC reinstalled. I forgot what a PITA the inside upper brake booster nut can be to access.
 
Finished up the S60R brake conversion this afternoon/evening. Now I just need to bleed the heck out of it. Might use cheap fluid to get all of the air out and then run some of the good stuff through it.

This has been documented plenty before, but here's a pic of the rear proportioning valve delete using a front distribution block. I need to come up with a more permanent mounting system (other than 3 zip ties).

82-242-rear-brake-lines.jpg
 
Man, how the hell did i miss this one? Project looks great, lovin the attention to detail. Two of my buddies work at Herzog-Maier right now, small world.
 
Bob said:
Need to re-plumb the front distribution block (per Dave Barton's site) and delete the rear proportioning valves
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm a dummy, but I never understood why he plumbed it that way :e-shrug:.

From Dave's site:
240_brake_junction-003.jpg


He says for his, and I'm assuming you did yours the same way, one circuit is for the front and one is for the rear. Even with deleting the rear proportioning valves, wouldn't you end up with uneven pressure on the two different circuits, and therefore always have the brake light on from the switch in the junction block not being equalized by both sides? The OEM configuration runs opposite corners on each circuit to keep even pressure on the switch, which is what makes the switch work as a warning light. Unless I'm missing something, which isn't at all unlikely!

When I did the R brakes on my 240 last summer I plumbed it like the OEM setup to retain balance on the junction block/switch -- front left and right rear on one circuit and vice versa. Works perfect and no brake warning light :)

PS -- I love this project and I am super jealous of that paint job!
 
Cameron,

I did plumb it according to Dave's site, by relocating both rear lines to one side and plugging those two top holes. They were easy enough to bend and get to fit. As I was doing it I was also wondering about whether or not this would affect the warning switch functionality, but then was thinking that without the proportioning valves the entire system should have even hydraulic pressure when the brakes are applied (right?). I'm not sure on this one either.

As for the paint, it looks even better in person than in the pics, as a few people who have seen it can attest to. The body shop really did a great job, and when I get it running they want me to bring it back over there for a final buff, etc.
 
Well I guess you'll know for sure once you use them :) I'll be curious to hear what's up with it.

Another thing I didn't like about Dave's plumbing was that it did require you to move practically all the lines at the block. Since I did mine opposite corners all I had to do was remove 2 hard lines and plug those holes. No disconnecting/sorting all those other ones.

Oh man -- if the paint looks that good now it should be incredible after it's buffed out :drool:
 
Bob said:
Charlie, I am going to be calling you in a few weeks to swing over ;-)

In full on mode, put about 12 hours into the car this weekend :cool:
Click to expand...

YES!!!Progress is good! I'm not gonna be able to start on mine till the end of this summer but I'll catch up to you Bob....eventually:-P

Cameron said:
PS -- I love this project and I am super jealous of that paint job!
Click to expand...
I've said it before and I'll say it again...pictures do not do that paint justice.:nod:

Cameron said:
Oh man -- if the paint looks that good now it should be incredible after it's buffed out :drool:
Click to expand...
:nod: Yup it's gonna look like:wtf::wtf::wtf:
 
J.Grady said:
When you where working at ifcs you didnt by any chance know my dad john grady or hear of shade tree auto?
Click to expand...

I've been to Shade Tree Auto before, probably about 10 years ago. Bought my first set of Turbo sway bars there.

Here's the latest engine bay shot. The plan is keep the wiring as clean as possible to really show off the white. I'm waiting for my eBay intercooler piping (arrives tomorrow) before I finish plumbing the remote oil filter. For now I'm not using my RX-7 oil cooler, but might use a stock 240 turbo oil cooler. The injectors are RC Engineering 750cc units.

Also, I'm going to try to find a different radiator overflow tank that I can mount up by the radiator. I was at the junkyard today, but it was pouring rain and I didn't feel like wading through the mud to search for one.

82-242-engine-bay.jpg
 
i really like the oil filter relocation. so easy to access. why'd you move it? too hard to get to with the manifold and turbo?
 
lovethellama said:
i really like the oil filter relocation. so easy to access. why'd you move it? too hard to get to with the manifold and turbo?
Click to expand...

I actually copied another build, <a href="http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=119745" target="_blank" >Aaron's 1982 242</a>. I like the idea of feeding the turbo with oil that has just been filtered. Also, the placement there will allow me to eventually plumb my RX-7 oil cooler easily, which will fit right above the intercooler.

Oh, and the braided stainless line and fittings look sweet :) I'm using a VDO temp sender in the unused inlet.
 
Bob said:
Oh, and the braided stainless line and fittings look sweet :) I'm using a VDO temp sender in the unused inlet.
Click to expand...

Don't they though?! I love stainless lines. Dresses up any build. Spendy though. I only have turbo oil and water lines, and fuel lines in stainless but I spent probably 500 bucks on that stuff. :omg:
 
Jordan said:
Don't they though?! I love stainless lines. Dresses up any build. Spendy though.
Click to expand...

Yea, I've also learned to stick with one brand of line/hose end. I tried to mix and match Earl's perform-o-flex line with generic Summit brand hose ends (just for the -4 oil feed) and the hose ends didn't want to fit over the line during assembly (without causing fraying). Once I bought Earl's fittings everything went together much better. Maybe it was just me, but the Earl's line seemed to like Earl's fittings much better.

For now I'm using rubber lines for fuel, but eventually want to do the fuel system in stainless.
 
Bob said:
Yea, I've also learned to stick with one brand of line/hose end. I tried to mix and match Earl's perform-o-flex line with generic Summit brand hose ends (just for the -4 oil feed) and the hose ends didn't want to fit over the line during assembly (without causing fraying). Once I bought Earl's fittings everything went together much better. Maybe it was just me, but the Earl's line seemed to like Earl's fittings much better.

For now I'm using rubber lines for fuel, but eventually want to do the fuel system in stainless.
Click to expand...

Personally I like Aeroquip. I haven't had a lick of issue with em. We have a local shop called Williams Oil Filter Service Company that has all that stuff on the shelf. Convinient but spendy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top