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Car Audio- School Me

They came that way. They are from a Revel Ultima Salon2 speaker. I had a connection with someone I could get parts. not anymore...

P3180084.jpg P3180088.jpg

What woofer are you planning on running for those enclosures? What is the internal size of your box? both sides or jus the driver side? is the box utilizing the lower cavity or just sitting on top? Not sure how much room for a deep driver if you're not utilizing the lower section. They do have the shallow mount woofers now, some of which look nice and have similar displacement as a normal driver.

If its a deep 10" driver, you would want to shoot for at least 1ft^3 internal area for a sealed box. A sealed box in the corner of a trunk in a sedan does wonders. wagons are a little different EQ but not much. I didn't know much about audio back then, and I still don't..., and was pleasantly surprised by the output the 4x 8" have in those floor cavities.
 
TIPSP said:
They came that way. They are from a Revel Ultima Salon2 speaker. I had a connection with someone I could get parts. not anymore...

View attachment 26072 View attachment 26073

What woofer are you planning on running for those enclosures? What is the internal size of your box? both sides or jus the driver side? is the box utilizing the lower cavity or just sitting on top? Not sure how much room for a deep driver if you're not utilizing the lower section. They do have the shallow mount woofers now, some of which look nice and have similar displacement as a normal driver.

If its a deep 10" driver, you would want to shoot for at least 1ft^3 internal area for a sealed box. A sealed box in the corner of a trunk in a sedan does wonders. wagons are a little different EQ but not much. I didn't know much about audio back then, and I still don't..., and was pleasantly surprised by the output the 4x 8" have in those floor cavities.
Click to expand...

I like having those storage spaces so I was pondering how could I build a box without taking up much space. So I would at the very least have the boxes attached to the covers. As for the speakers, I have no clue. I wasn't even planning on getting subs for some time. My goal is still just door speakers for now. So sub enclosures are just "benching bassing?"...
Plus, I still have no clue what I'm doing.
 
Just get your 4 door speakers replaced first (it's a must) and see what more you want to add after. Depending or your head unit if you really want more bass get a powered subwoofer, like MTX or something. It may even fit under the seat and is easy to take out if you need.
 
I don't have a ton of input, but I did a modest setup in my 240. The biggest improvement I made, by far, was putting all the door speakers on an amp. 5.25" components in the front, 6.5" in the rear doors. I himhawed about adding 6x9s in the package tray but never did. 2 12s in the trunk.

It's not super fancy but it sounds great to me and I can jam to undistorted tunes with the windows down at 70mph.

Starts here: https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/jareds-79-5-3-244-project-the-qwikbrik.236159/page-49
 
ITs under the drive side dash. you can see it right there when you take the knee guard off black box with two connectors on it. I do not know anything about them. Mine has been disconnected for ever.

5 1/4 door speakers and head unit is solid starting point. add a multichannel amp if you want more out of the system.
 
I got new speakers, went to hook them up to the front wires, and I got nothing. My car didn't have front speakers.

Anybody have any idea why it might be working? Speakers are brand new so I know they are not the problem.
 
CaliMeatWagon said:
I got new speakers, went to hook them up to the front wires, and I got nothing. My car didn't have front speakers.

Anybody have any idea why it might be working? Speakers are brand new so I know they are not the problem.
Click to expand...
Check wiring continuity between door wire and radio connector. Seems like the door harness might have given up the ghost?

Honestly I'd consider just running new speaker wire through the rubber boot into the door.
 
CaliMeatWagon said:
Did you mount the speakers directly to the door instead of to the door cards?
Click to expand...
Yes. See the image.

If you are going through the effort for new speaker wire, I’d do your runs to where you will eventually put an amp and go that route. I’m personally don’t like to do stuff twice.

A phase tester is nice as you can send pulses to a speaker and make sure you have the polarity correct. When you run wires and forget to label them, you can check the polarity and what speaker is what.
 
TIPSP said:
Yes. See the image.

If you are going through the effort for new speaker wire, I’d do your runs to where you will eventually put an amp and go that route. I’m personally don’t like to do stuff twice.

A phase tester is nice as you can send pulses to a speaker and make sure you have the polarity correct. When you run wires and forget to label them, you can check the polarity and what speaker is what.
Click to expand...
I personally have not had the issue with phase in my car. Either I have just been lucky, or the other noises in the car hide the issue
 
The only thing you will notice with reversed wires in one speaker (of a pair) is reduced bass.
A quick polarity check is to hit the speaker wires with a small 1.5v cell and watch the driver at the other end. Use the configuration that makes the cone move out.
 
TIPSP said:
Yes. See the image.

If you are going through the effort for new speaker wire, I’d do your runs to where you will eventually put an amp and go that route. I’m personally don’t like to do stuff twice.

A phase tester is nice as you can send pulses to a speaker and make sure you have the polarity correct. When you run wires and forget to label them, you can check the polarity and what speaker is what.
Click to expand...

Is that an adapter plate, or the just the speaker to the door? And what did you use, metal screws, or?

I seriously have very little idea of what I'm doing. I tried drilling out the rivets on one door, now they the rivets just spin in place. Tempted to have them installed for me, but also what to do this myself.
 
That was the bracket for that speaker. I just screwed the bracket into the door with some tinnerman clips I have and screws.

You can use tinnerman clips to attach screws to through your bracket to the door.

1713741774269.jpeg

Just regular sheet metal screws (non cutting type) size for the clips.

You might have to trim some door metal to open up for larger magnet speakers. I can’t remember it’s been so long.

Drill the head of rivet then the steam falls out.
 
TIPSP said:
That was the bracket for that speaker. I just screwed the bracket into the door with some tinnerman clips I have and screws.

You can use tinnerman clips to attach screws to through your bracket to the door.

View attachment 26653

Just regular sheet metal screws (non cutting type) size for the clips.

You might have to trim some door metal to open up for larger magnet speakers. I can’t remember it’s been so long.

Drill the head of rivet then the steam falls out.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Any tip for keeping the rivet from spinning in place as I'm drilling it?
 
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