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Cd009 vs t5 vs getrag vs ? For volvo 740 turbo

doucheNozzle said:
Is it noisy like a regular T5?
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Oh yeah, but mostly from the release bearing at idle in neutral and decel, I used the T5 bearing but not 100% it has the right i.d., it's been slowly getting quieter though. It's a common complaint from mustang drivers too. When I shimmed the bearings/ shafts i measured 0.0 it was supposed to have .002" but it seems to have worked itself out.
 
I use sixth gear on mine. Of course only over 70mph, but the fact that I can cruse this thing on the hwy and Still have a close ratio for the lower gears is awesome.
 
volvosruinedmylife said:
I use sixth gear on mine. Of course only over 70mph, but the fact that I can cruse this thing on the hwy and Still have a close ratio for the lower gears is awesome.
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Do you know what gearing your rear end is?

After reading what I can find on the swaps I'm going to go ahead with a used cd009. Those of you that have done it, what year transmission did you get/ which ones will work? Everything from 03-now seems to have the same front cover that the deeworks adapter could bolt up to but most stuff I find only references using a pre 08 transmission.
 
kgalla said:
After reading what I can find on the swaps I'm going to go ahead with a used cd009. Those of you that have done it, what year transmission did you get/ which ones will work? Everything from 03-now seems to have the same front cover that the deeworks adapter could bolt up to but most stuff I find only references using a pre 08 transmission.
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You want July 2004 or newer. The older ones have synchros that go bad. I have a JK400 from a 370z I think.

Part number - Date
32010CD000 - ’02 Oct
32010CD003 - ’03 May
32010CD006 - ’03 July
32010CD008 - <’04 July
32010CD009 - >’04 July
32010JK400 - '06, November — '07, July
32010JK40C - ’07 July
32010CD00A Current

You cut off the bellhousing, remove the front cover and replace the front cover with the deeworks adapter with the correct input shaft bearing size.
 
kgalla said:
Do you know what gearing your rear end is?

After reading what I can find on the swaps I'm going to go ahead with a used cd009. Those of you that have done it, what year transmission did you get/ which ones will work? Everything from 03-now seems to have the same front cover that the deeworks adapter could bolt up to but most stuff I find only references using a pre 08 transmission.
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My rear diff is a 3.73
 
kgalla said:
Do you know what gearing your rear end is?

After reading what I can find on the swaps I'm going to go ahead with a used cd009. Those of you that have done it, what year transmission did you get/ which ones will work? Everything from 03-now seems to have the same front cover that the deeworks adapter could bolt up to but most stuff I find only references using a pre 08 transmission.
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I wouldn't go with a used one unless you know what it came from. The tags can be missing to identify them. I got mine from z1 motorsports, but if you can get one you know is good. Go for it.
 
VB242 said:
I have a TR3650 from a 2004 mustang in my 242, I had to swap the input shaft with the later version 2010 + for the correct length 10 spline, which basically involved taking the whole thing apart. Hanlon had a 26 spline input shaft available which makes it almost indestructible. It uses an adapter plate from Hanlon motorsports that converts it to TKO mount on the front. That bolts up to the BNE adapter plate, so 2 adapters but I have a 5spd that will take 600ft.lbs. needed some tunnel bashing but the shifter position isn't too bad had to cut way a little bit of the stock hole but it put the shifter closer. It also has a .62 o.d. which is great above 65 mph with my 4.10 rear end. It turns about 2800rpm at 80mph. The internals are about twice the size of T5 guts and it weighs about twice as much too if that matters. Definitely a 2 person job to install it.
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holy overdrive lol. no wonder it works so well with a 4.10 final :-D
that's an interesting find, what shifter did you use (or just the stock one?) and how's it feel relative to a t5? I've had one t5 that I really liked, the rest have been so-so, and the power handling is not going to jive with my goals anyway :-/

I do not care for the t5 in the blue car, but going from .68 to .62 might tip it over still. I also don't really love the idea of the like .8 od in the cd009, I can more easily source a 4.10 (From the stack of them I've acquired recently...) and would vastly prefer that over stretching all the gears to make a decent OD rpm...
Do like the shift quality of the cd009 though...
 
It feels extremely solid, like there's no way to break it. There's also an issue with what they call 3rd gear lockout at high rpm, which also seems to have gone away with some use. I also followed the internet recommendation to fill with only 3 liters instead of filling to overflow which seems to have helped. I bought the shifter from Hanlon too, their last expensive one of course. It is tight in the tunnel too, I did some adjusting with the BFH. I will be honest 5th is really only useful above 65, it will chug along at 60 but I'd be downshifting if there were any hills around here. It's perfect for cruising 75-80 though. I do wonder what it's like in a V8 mustang.
 
linuxman51 said:
holy overdrive lol. no wonder it works so well with a 4.10 final :-D
that's an interesting find, what shifter did you use (or just the stock one?) and how's it feel relative to a t5? I've had one t5 that I really liked, the rest have been so-so, and the power handling is not going to jive with my goals anyway :-/

I do not care for the t5 in the blue car, but going from .68 to .62 might tip it over still. I also don't really love the idea of the like .8 od in the cd009, I can more easily source a 4.10 (From the stack of them I've acquired recently...) and would vastly prefer that over stretching all the gears to make a decent OD rpm...
Do like the shift quality of the cd009 though...
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I've got a .80 fifth in my t5z with a 3.91 rear, it's EXCELLENT on two lane backroads. It's terrible on the highway, luckily I never take the car to go sit on the highway doing nothing or I'd drive it off the road. I'm also glad I don't have an extra shift out of a crawler 1st gear to get to a .80 ratio...
 
One slight consideration, and perhaps it's so slight as to not be an issue a tall, but if you plan on hitting hyperspeed in the car at some point, the driveshaft RPM is something to ponder.

A tall top gear and a low rear end and vice versa are otherwise pretty arbitrary. But I've seen some driveshafts that let loose at high speeds and it often damn near totals the car. Keeping driveshafts RPMs down might be a nice thing to aim for.
 
JohnMc said:
One slight consideration, and perhaps it's so slight as to not be an issue a tall, but if you plan on hitting hyperspeed in the car at some point, the driveshaft RPM is something to ponder.

A tall top gear and a low rear end and vice versa are otherwise pretty arbitrary. But I've seen some driveshafts that let loose at high speeds and it often damn near totals the car. Keeping driveshafts RPMs down might be a nice thing to aim for.
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What do you consider hyperspeed?
 
That would depend on the gearing. It's called critical speed, and it varies with the length and diameter and materials used on the driveshaft. Basically, spin one fast enough and it will hit the resonant frequency of the shaft's flex. At which point it will likely start oscillating and (in a flash) probably break and try to saw the car in half.

There are some calculators out there. Here's one: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/critical-speed-rpm-calculator

Generally, the faster you go, the more likely you are to hit it. You can increase the safe driveshaft RPM through the size (shorter lengths with a support bearing), diameter (bigger is better), material (lighter is better).

And of course, just through gearing. Tall rear end, relatively lower trans gearing, same overall gearing, but lower RPm on the driveshaft.
 
Super...now I am going down the driveshaft critical speed internet rat hole. I started with a stock 740 M46 driveshaft, replaced the front section with the Yoshifab version with the slip yoke and stiffened up the stock center support with window weld urethane. I really can't see this car going over 120 MPH, which at a .354 is ~6000 RPM 1:1, or .410 ~7000 RPM 1:1 if I calculate that correctly. The most I have ever seen is 117MPH at the end of the straight at Big Willow with a .354.
 
I think a 2 pc is a big step in the right direction. I have a 1 pc on my turbo LS/CD009 240 wagon now, and I'm def going to a 2 pc when I finally get a round tuit and put the Ford 8.8 rear axle in it.
 
rb92673 said:
Super...now I am going down the driveshaft critical speed internet rat hole. I started with a stock 740 M46 driveshaft, replaced the front section with the Yoshifab version with the slip yoke and stiffened up the stock center support with window weld urethane. I really can't see this car going over 120 MPH, which at a .354 is ~6000 RPM 1:1, or .410 ~7000 RPM 1:1 if I calculate that correctly. The most I have ever seen is 117MPH at the end of the straight at Big Willow with a .354.
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You'll be fine with regard to critical speeds. You can spin a stock DS to over 10k without issue iirc.
 
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