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Cleaning factory painted calipers?

2turbotoys

2turbotoys

Salaminizer
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Location
Reading pa
Been looking for low cost projects till my new job kicks in, and wanted to get my Z17 calipers cleaned up better. They have years of accumulated build up. I have used a Dremel with SS wire brushes, razor blades, acetone, brake cleaner, I can't get them clean.

Anyone have any other tricks?

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Are you going to replace the rubber seals? Brake cleaner and acetone isn't good for them. If not protect them with tape or something and maybe try some muriatic acid with a scothbrite pad. If you going to paint them anyway then maybe just scuff them with some sandpaper and apply a good primer first , then paint.
 
Don't we already have a paint stripper thread that concluded they don't make toxic stuff like they used to?

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I use this stuff on everything but that's because it's CA approved not to give you aids or something
 
nel621 said:
Are you going to replace the rubber seals? Brake cleaner and acetone isn't good for them. If not protect them with tape or something and maybe try some muriatic acid with a scothbrite pad. If you going to paint them anyway then maybe just scuff them with some sandpaper and apply a good primer first , then paint.
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+1, 6 pistons on a caliper looks like a lot of chances for a leak to me, so I would really pay attention to those seals if you aren't going to replace them.
 
I'm not getting acetone on the rubber, and I have full rebuild kits in case I make a mistake. Plus it really isn't strong enough apparently. I guess I'll get some muriatic acid.

I've never seen Super Clean, I would try it if I find it.
 
Ya, gotcha. Muriatic acid is one step from hydrochloric acid. If I can even find some gloves. Even at the shop we are having problems buying gloves right now.
 
Muriatic acid is HCL pal.

I wouldn't put acid on it unless it could be broken down into individual pieces for accurate cleaning.

No mask off the interior surfaces, plug the ports, & bead blast love?
 
Its low grade HCL, and ya I don't really want to use that. I will have to change the media in the blast cabinet to remove the mess, probably have to use actual sand which I hate to do on aluminum.

Changing the media sucks, it is really hard to get all the sand out when you want to go back to glass bead.

It's all for the clean look anyway, and no one really cares so maybe I will just rock what I have.
 
Saw this video with not much prep info but interesting to watch

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HMlvvzc1Gls" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

;-)
 
culberro said:
^Purple drank cleaner works a whole lot better when mixed with warm/hot water.
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I haven't used that stuff in a long time but it used to be really hot, I wonder if it's been watered down at all? It used to bleach dirt bike plastics and etch aluminum if you weren't really careful with it.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
I haven't used that stuff in a long time but it used to be really hot, I wonder if it's been watered down at all? It used to bleach dirt bike plastics and etch aluminum if you weren't really careful with it.
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Straight up it will attack certain alloys. I left a used piston sit in it for ~ 2 months, no etching/powdering/dimensional changes. It was really easy to clean the crud off.

I definitely think they've toned it down in the last few years. I can use it without by skin peeling off a few hours later with the new chemistry.
 
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