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Cleaning kjet fuel distributor

Canadan

Canadan

New member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Oregon
Dealing with fueling issues for a while on my 85 244ti. I believed the cpr to be out of adjustment slightly but when I took it off for the 10th time I noticed it puked varnished Amber fuel out, which is weird cause I know it's clean both before and after the filter so I'm thinking the distributor has a bunch of varnish in it and the more I read the more I feel this could be a part of my problem. Thing is I've always heard to never remove them and the threads I've read where people did to clean them they leaked (possibly pressed from the factory). Searching didn't yeild much but turbobricks what's the preferred method to clean the fuel distributor?

Also I found some Aussie site talking about modifying the cpr (wur in their talk I don't think it was Volvo) to make it adjustable, anyone here done that? Seems easy enough to be able to get the right pressure. Btw I've got a pressure gauge set up for it and I'm getting about 42psi from the cpr which is on the high side but none the less still within acceptable range so idk if it's my main issue causing my lean running (too freaking lean)
 
Thanks for the links, seems I might should try removing the wur filters if I can get them out. My car doesn't have the proper equipment on it, the wur is off a na car (I find more out as I go along) but it seems if the pressure is proper it should run right but it's not (when the car ran a lower control pressure and I forgot to hook up the distributor vac it ran awesome, only for a day though) so to answer your question its all mechanical. I bought a can of barrymans b12 (old school seafoam) but because the fuel system is apart now I haven't put it in.


Anyone else have cpr/wur/ control pressure regulator mods? I've heard the kjet system operates from -50% to +200% fuel flow depending on setting, anyone have any insight to that? I assume it's in the base pressure and control pressure but the more into the better., that is if enough people are still screwing with kjet
 
appreciate it a lot guys. testpoint, ive been following that link mostly, as for my pressure readings I need to check again as ive messed with a few things but last check was 70ish for base pressure and 43 for control. I noticed my cpr puking varnished fuel so I took it apart again and removed the filter that I had heard many never had in the first palce, also pressed the disk up .025 to decrease the control pressure so again ill have to check it all again later
 
I've modified 2 CPR's to make it adjustable. Used the ones from MBZ that had dual chambers on the bottom, took out the bellows/capsule and installed a screw that I could turn.
Cleaned crusty deposits from few distributors by running vinegar trough them (on the bench). Sometimes pressure adjusting needles on the side of the distributor wear out and start sticking- no cure other than replacing them.

CISReg2.jpg
 
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I need to keep my eye out for another cpr as this isn't the right one anyways. But the more I read it seems they are all more or less the same aside from vac fittings (which mine doesn't have) and different bimetallic spring rates. I've found more modifications I'm going to do while I've already got it out but I'm anxious to try it after raising it .025 to see if that gives me a better pressure


Edit: any more advice on bench cleaning? How did you pump the fluid through or did you use gravity?
 
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Canadan said:
cpr...more or less the same
Click to expand...

See: K-Jetronic and download TP30454-1_ci_system_part_1

In the table shown, the ...079 was for a Turbo, and it had "Acceleration enrichment, cold engine" feature.

They do show temperature/pressure graphs. And finding correct table for your CPR should be used to set CPR.

If CPR has a vacuum port, for vehicles without O2 sensor, this was for load enrichment; and in one diagram for B27F engine, it shows about 5 psi difference in pressure, with and without vacuum attached.

.
 
thanks John, that's the link I've been following mostly.

84b23f thanks for that, I've got it opened and saved for later today when I mess with the car again. Unfortunately my cpr is not the correct one, I can't remember the part number but last I ran it, it was off a early b21f so no vac ports or enrichment or anything.
 
Canadan said:
Edit: any more advice on bench cleaning?
Click to expand...

I think it might be best to use some sort of petroleum based solution, and just use a throw-away low pressure pump..

I suspect the injector ports could be cleaned, one at a time, but I'd have to look at control-plunger's diagram to see if this is possible.

The recycled petroleum based solution would have to be filtered, with this pump running for hours.

Capture_zpsa9c85179.jpg


If it is rusted inside, this can not be fixed.
 
Canadan said:
Edit: any more advice on bench cleaning? How did you pump the fluid through or did you use gravity?
Click to expand...

Used a spare KJet pump, opened injector lines (don't want to clog the injectors with loosened crust). Used industrial (agriculture) vinegar- not the supermarket kind. After that flushed with alcohol and after that used gasoline. That cured uneven fuel delivery at idle.
 
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