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fuel pump almost killed me

blue cube

New member
Joined
May 15, 2003
Location
Eastern Upstate NY
well
i have a problem with my fuel delivery system

first i put in a bosch 4bar FPR and then i put in a walbro 255lph intank pump

however, i went in for an inspection and my mechanic happened to notice
the fuel pump wires burning up...
he demonstrated and they where really burning up hardcore

im not sure why this is happening, but ive gotten really sketched out by it
and have replaced the entire sending unit with a stock pump.

my question is, i want to run 13psi at the moment
is the 4bar bosch fpr enough or should i do more (93oct is the only thing i put in this car)
and the head was just rebuilt so its all clean
 
Might want to consider...

I would try my trick-check out my web site-
http://home.comcast.net/~volvo4life/Index.html

The only thing that is not correct is the ohms at what i run my na/turbo bolt on, motor on-it runs at 1080 ohms-my turbo ran at around 300 ohms. With a medium turbo upgrade the car is fantastic at 5-7 psi. I also run B-12 berrymans fuel cleaner and what not because it countains tolullene , and metha- some mess, and the car really moves with it in the tank.

Kris Weldy
 
as in the wires were really hot? the new pumps may be drawing considerably more current through old wires with high resistances, which would lead to heat. See if you can't measure the amperage from the fuse or someplace with the bosch in vs. the stock...you might have to replace some wiring. (maybe?) good luck and be safe!
 
I hope you have not simply hooked up the old tank pump wires to the new pump. The old wires were designed for half the amperage that the new pump draws. Some tank pumps are wired with resistance in the wire to knock down the draw and the pressure and flow so they can be used as feed pumps for an inline pump -- the tank pumps might pump much more if wired differently.

I would use the OEM tank pump wires only to trigger (and ground if you are too lazy to run a short thin chassis ground) a relay. I would run a 10 or 12 gauge power wire to the relay and mount the relay in the trunk or storage area. Then run a 12 or 14 gauge wire a foot or two to the top of the pump and solder it on and heatshrink or coat it. Also run a similar gauge ground to a ground point. The OEM sender wire should be fine. I have been running a Walbro 190 LPH tank pump for 3 years wired like this without any problem.

I recommend that people study wiring a little before they tackle projects like this, and if they are unsure, they should enlist the help of someone who knows what he or she is doing. The proper tools, proper wire, proper gauge wire, proper terminals, and some understanding of auto wiring are required. I have read recently of more than a few botched and potentially dangerous wiring jobs.

Philip Bradley
 
yeah will run wires back there for it and do a relay system
but for the time being i want to just keep the stock pump
in there as i dont have time to do it all

is my system okay with stock injectors and a 4bar fpr for 13psi?
 
blue cube said:
yeah will run wires back there for it and do a relay system
but for the time being i want to just keep the stock pump
in there as i dont have time to do it all

is my system okay with stock injectors and a 4bar fpr for 13psi?


OK, i guess so...
over kill, yes.

What makes you think you need more fuel in the first place? are you running lean? detinating? pingging?
 
yeah i was detonating at 11psi

and i cleared that up by having the head rebuilt and taking care
of all the cabon in the engine

also my turbo was shot to hell

i was putting in the fuel pump to run 15psi
(and problably more)

i just wanted to know if im safe at 13psi for now with the stock pump and 4bar fpr
i assume i am

i also assume im pissing you guys off with a stupid question :)
sorry haha....

i guess ill give it a shot and if i dont hear anything im good to go
 
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